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Butt End: The Toughest Portages

Photo: Kevin Callan
Portage

It seemed a moot point to the accused. I take the act of stealing red Lifesavers out of my candy stash very seriously. I toss these sugary rings in my mouth at every 1,000-metre mark along a portage—a personal act of rich reward and the only thing that seemed to get me to the other side of the particularly grueling, blackfly-infested trails we trudged along on that trip. He claimed I was being overly dramatic when I threatened to never travel with him again. He gave me an evil smirk and took my last one. I haven’t tripped with him since.

What gets each canoeist to the other side of a portage varies. Some, like me, treat themselves to high-grading their candy bags. Others go into a dreamscape of good first dates, movies worth seeing a second time and dirty tricks to play on their bosses. Some paddlers simply think of things happening back at home—like traffic jams and the Greek economic crisis—to give them reasons why the pain of the portage isn’t so bad.

Many of us hum or, if we know the words, sing monotonous show tunes or the last song we heard on the radio driving to the put-in. The Proclaimers’ I’m Gonna Be (500 Miles) is a favourite. So are Dancing Queen by ABBA, Cat Stevens’, Cat’s in the Cradle and John Denver’s Poems, Prayers and Promises.

I remember a 27-day solo trip when I couldn’t get Aqua’s Barbie Girl out of my head. Imagine I’m a Barbie girl in a Barbie world / Life in plastic, it’s fantastic / You can brush my hair, undress me everywhere / Imagination, life is your creation every step of every portage. It was a long month.

Where the portage is located on the trip changes the carrot I dangle from my deck plate.

In the beginning, I daydream of monster walleye, picturesque campsites and the peaceful solitude I know I’ll find deeper into the interior. Near the end of the trip, it’s the thought of a cold beer and roadside junk food that makes me dance (albeit a slow waltz) my 60-pound canoe barrel across to the other side.

Ultimately, what gets most of us to the other side—no matter when and where—is the fact that the portage, nasty or not, is the only thing that protects the places we’re portaging to.

I almost guarantee that he or she who suffers the most, will be rewarded the most. A two-Lifesaver portage with steep inclines and a squishy spruce bog will give you complete solace. There will be no crowds at the end.

If you do stumble across another canoeist—ideally not as you are belting out Come on, Barbie, let’s go party, ah ah ah, yeah from beneath your Rob Roy—be assured she’ll be just as in love with the pain and pleasure of portaging as you are.

 

Discover more great adventure stories in Canoeroots and Family Camping’s Late Summer 2010 issue. To read it, download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Daily Photo: Fish Fry

Photo: Ontario Tourism
Canoes

Do you regularily eat your catch of the day while on your canoe trips? 

This photo was taken in Woodland Caribou Provincial Park and is courtesy Ontario Tourism.  Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo

Daily Photo: Smell the Flowers

Photo: Virginia Marshall
Daily Photo: Smell the Flowers


What is it that makes a great campsite? Does is need to be sand or rock, possess a commanding view, sheltered from wind, facing the sunset or sunrise? Or does it merely need to be the place you stop and linger for a night. Where you stop to smell the flowers.

See your photo here. Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo.

 

 

7 Sunny Places To Paddle & Work On Your Tan

Two women sunbathing on thermarests on rocks with sea kayaks pulled up on shore.
Fun in the sun. | Photo: Benjamin Hjort

The link between sunny skies and feelings of well-being isn’t just a bunch of emo hokum. In a study of more than 1,200 people, researchers found that sunshine is the single most profound weather factor affecting mood. The reason is likely physiological: our bodies produce serotonin, a hormone that promotes happiness, in response to sunlight. Enjoy responsibly.

Gulf Islands, Florida

Balmy year-round temperatures and 70 percent annual sunshine make Florida’s Gulf Coast justifiably popular with vacationers, snowbirds and sun-worshippers. Even so, Charlotte County’s 28 miles of beaches are less crowded than the keys. Find you own secluded patch of white sand and seashells on water access-only Don Pedro and Little Gasparilla islands and, farther south, Cayo Costa, a state park with campsites and a nine-mile strand on the Gulf.

South Maui, Hawaii

Maui’s south coast offers paddlers unrivaled variety combined with a dry, sunny microclimate in the rain shadow of massive Mount Haleakala. Lather on the sunscreen for a few hours on the golden sands of Makena Beach State Park, then explore the 50-foot cliffs, bizarre volcanic formations and wild coves of nearby La Perouse Bay and adjacent ‘Ahihi-Kina’u Natural Area Reserve. Experienced paddlers can continue five miles east around Hanamanioa headland to camp on the fine, black pebbles of Kanaio Beach.

Lake Tahoe, Nevada

In Nevada, one thing you don’t have to gamble on is the weather. With 274 days of sunshine annually, we like the odds at Lake Tahoe. Head to the north shore for golden sands, crystalline coves filled with wave-polished boulders, and stellar views of snowcapped mountains at Sand Harbor State Park.

Desolation Sound, British Columbia

British Coumbia’s Sunshine Coast lives up to its name in the wild island clusters and passages of this marine provincial park, which is blessed with both warm waters and frequently clear skies. July is the driest month, with an average of just nine rainfall days. Expect rugged bedrock outcrops and few beaches, but hunt around and you’ll find idyllic campsites on the mossy headlands of the Curme Islands.

Ocmulgee River, Georgia

The sunniest city in the Peach State is Macon, and the Ocmulgee flows right across its doorstep. Downstream, put in at Bullard Landing and paddle 42 miles of meandering flatwater and class I rapids on the Ocmulgee River Blueway to Hawkinsville. Wending between sandy banks through undeveloped oak, cypress, gum, tupelo and magnolia bottomland forests, this is one of Georgia’s last great wildernesses.

Prince Edward County, Ontario

Work on your tan lines and work out your taste buds on this wonderfully accessible island in Lake Ontario. With relatively stable, sunny summer weather and plenty of south-facing coastline, the County is home to some of the province’s most popular beaches, as well as some of its finest vineyards. From the golden dunes of Sandbanks Provincial Park to the limestone bluffs and pebble beaches of Long Point, there’s something to suit everyone, and seclusion is just a short paddle away.

Salton Sea, California

According to the World Data Center for Meteorology, Yuma, Arizona, is the only place on earth confirmed to receive more than 4,000 hours of sunshine annually. Year round, the city averages 11 hours of sun a day—that’s a lot of vitamin D. Nearby, the Salton Sea is a sun-scorched, super-saline oasis in the desert. Bring your pool mattress.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak‘s Summer/Fall 2013 issue. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here, or browse the archives here.


Fun in the sun. | Photo: Benjamin Hjort

Trips: Unforgettable Adventures After Dark

Photo: Virginia Marshall
After Dark

 Nothing holds the promise of adventure quite like a warm summer’s night. On your next family camping trip, before settling down around the campfire to share scary stories and roasted marshmallows, try one of these fun and unique after-dark activities.

 

1. Go for a Night Paddle

Wait for a calm, clear evening to enjoy the memorable magic of a quiet night paddle. Gliding through the seamless union of water and sky and piercing the hearts of constellations twinkling on the still surface transforms your Evergreen Starburst into the starship Enterprise and its occupants into intergalactic explorers. Head to Quebec’s La Vérendrye Wildlife Reserve—just two hours from Ottawa and three from Montreal—for comfortable campsites, 2,000 kilometres of canoe routes on over 4,000 lakes and inky night skies blissfully free of light pollution. Nine recommended two-to three-day circuits make it easy to plan a weekend away. www.canot-camping.ca

 

2. Swim in a Bioluminescent Sea

Imagine plunging into an ocean where every break of a wave or flutter kick of a swimmer’s feet sets the ocean ablaze. The otherworldly glow isn’t harmful; it’s merely the biological response of billions of microscopic plankton agitated by the disturbance. Bioluminescent dinoflagellates occur in all the world’s oceans, but you’ll only see them when sea temperature and nutrient availability combine to spawn high concentrations of the tiny creatures. Take a late spring trip to Vancouver Island when cold, well-oxygenated water promises good plankton blooms and bring your diving mask for an unforgettable aquatic experience. 

 

3. Howl with Wolves

On Thursday evenings in August, park interpreters at Algonquin Provincial Park lead public wolf howls from the park’s Highway 60 corridor. The spine-tingling canine chorus frequently attracts up to 2,000 park visitors at a time. Success is by no means guaranteed, but wolves have been heard on 88 per cent of the outings held over the past two decades. Check the park website or bulletin boards to confirm that the wolf pack has been located and the howl is a go, then join the hundreds of other vehicles lining the highway and listen quietly while park naturalists deliver imitation wolf howls and wait for a response from the dark woods. www.algonquinpark.on.ca/programs/interp.html

 

Discover four more unforgettable adventures in the Canoeroots and Family Camping’s Late Summer 2010 issue. For more expert tips, download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Q&A with Nigel Foster

Photo courtesy Nigel Foster
Q&A with Nigel Foster

Adventurer Paul Everitt speaks with veteran expedition paddler and sea kayak designer, Nigel Foster. To read the full interview, click here, and to learn more about Everitt and other adventurers around the world, visit Going Solo.

Crossing oceans in a sea kayak. For the foolish or the daring? 
Nigel – For the foolish and the daring! In my early days I was fascinated by what motivated people like John Fairfax, and others who rowed across the Atlantic solo, so I read all the books I could find. I also read solo sailing books by people like Joshua Slocum. I was intrigued by Alain Bombard drifting across the Atlantic in 1952, and then Romer, and Lindeman kayaking across. It takes some daring to set off on even a short open crossing in a kayak, but to tackle an ocean is in a different category. Some succeed but not all. Bombard’s health suffered, and Romer, and more recently Andrew McAuley both did amazing things but died. My own take on it? The kayak is the boat that excels in conditions close to shore, and it is the boat that can find a landing more easily than pretty much any other. It is ideal for daytime travel, when you can sleep on shore. There are other better boats than kayaks when you consider using sails or oars, or cooking on board or sleeping on board, and for crossing big open water. Crawling on hands and knees does work well when caving but why use that technique to scale a mountain? 

Who are your paddling idols, who inspired you and who continues to?
Nigel – I always admire people who take off to do their own thing, stretching their own limit of comfort. And there have always been a lot of them! Nowadays I am really impressed by Freya Hoffmeister. Her dedication to long distance kayaking trips is phenomenal. Also Oscar Chalupsky: an amazing powerhouse of a personality with dedication to his sport.
 
I also really admire people like Carmen Adell, who has worked really hard for kayaking in Catalonia and Spain, especially in enabling disabled paddlers, and she has such a contagious joy for life. I also get a lot of inspiration from the paddlers I meet day to day, full of enthusiasm for the sport and doing their own thing!
 
What’s the longest distance you’ve gone paddling without touching land and where was this? 
Nigel – About 40 miles. (Nautical). That was across the eastern entrance to Hudson Strait from Resolution Island to the Button Islands.

 
You’ve kayaked places that many have not heard of, If you was to recommend an area to explore where would it be and why?
Nigel – So many to choose from but how about Shetland? This group of islands off to the north of Scotland offers some of the most amazing cliff erosion scenery, with stacks, arches, tunnels and caves that take your breath away. It’s a particularly good place for seeing north Atlantic sea birds, and otters, seals etc. There are a few areas with strong tide and plenty of opportunity for rough water, or smooth, on any given day, depending where you go. On land you’ll find all manner of ancient ruins, from standing stones and burial mounds to ruins of ancient villages. Lots of potential for exploration, reasonably accessible, and very interesting!

 
During your Labrador trip you had some very close encounters with Polar Bears, what goes through your mind when you have the tidal sea dropping behind you and a Polar Bear approaching you from the front? Has there ever been any other moments in your life while kayaking where you’ve wondered if this is it, no tomorrow?
Nigel – Our closest polar bear scare was very real. We could so easily have been a meal. I think the bear was just enough uncertain of us. We were not behaving like prey: Kristin stood and told it to go away. If she’d reacted differently maybe we wouldn’t be here. My flares had no effect even when fired from eight feet away. It’s not a comfortable feeling.

 
But that incident was sudden and stunning. We had plenty of other polar bear encounters that were unsettling but less life-threatening.
 
On another trip I had the slow realization that things were going wrong that might lead to doom. That was while crossing the Hudson Strait. One element after another stacked up against me through the day until I barely made it. It’s a different feeling when you have plenty of time to consider your predicament, and you are very much on your own.
 

To anyone who is new to the world of kayaking what one tip would you give them to aid them into being a successful kayaker?
Nigel – Get some good instruction early on so you develop good technique… it’ll save you a lot of energy and frustration. Then don’t think you have to go out to practice. Instead, get on the water somewhere and explore. Use the skills!

Daily Photo: Friday Freedom

Photo: Flickr user under the influence of dub
Banff canoe

It’s Friday — where are you taking your canoe this weekend?

Want to see your photo here? Send it to us at [email protected] with the subject line “Daily Photo.”

This photo is by Flickr user under the influence of dub and is licensed thorugh the Creative Commons. 

Daily Photo: Log Jam

Photo: Jim MacDonald
whitewater kayaking

Paddler Thyren Garde-Jacobs drops under a log in Koksilah Canyon. Photo submitted by Rapid reader Jim MacDonald. 

Want to see your photo here? Submit your whitewater images to Rapid’s Daily Photo! [email protected] 

Daily Photo: Concentration

Photo: Courtesy Rapid reader Macnee
whitewater canoe

Fierce concentration from an open boater on the Alberton Gorge, Montana. Anyone else do this when they’re trying to focus?

Want to see your photo here? Submit your whitewater images to Rapid’s Daily Photo! [email protected] 

Daily Photo: Mill Creek Falls

Photo: Courtesy Levi Rhodes
whitewater kayaking

Paddler Levi Rhodes hits up Mill Creek Falls, West Virginia. 

Want to see your photo here? Submit your whitewater images to Rapid’s Daily Photo! [email protected]