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Travel The Alaska Panhandle On A Budget

Photo: John Hyde
Travel the Alaska panhandle

Budget Road Trips are for those who don’t want to sleep in free roadside pullouts every night, yet also would rather not be pampered at fancy resorts. The solution is balance: primitive versus posh; cash versus comfort; and seafood versus sandwiches. Do it right and you’ll capture the best of everything without feeling like a dirtbag or breaking the bank.

Sample Trip: Alaska Panhandle and the Klondike Trail

Travel: 7–10 days

Mileage: 680 miles (1,100 kilometers)

Highlights: Paddling amongst glaciers and icebergs in Tracy Arm; life-list wildlife viewing including brown bears on Admiralty Island and humpback whales in Glacier Bay National Park; sprawling lakes and alpine hiking in Kluane National Park; and the empty roads of the infamous gold-miners’ route on the Klondike Trail.

Stop-offs & Detours: In Juneau, you’ll want to paddle right away. It’s an easy four-hour trip to Oliver’s Inlet on Admiralty Island, an overnight backcountry destination and gateway to some of the best bear-watching on the planet. Take the ferry to Skagway and drive the Klondike Highway into British Columbia. Cross into Canada and take your pick of the many deserted alpine lakes, including Summit, Bernard and Tutshi. The largest, Taigish Lake, straddles the Yukon border. At the village of Taigish, make a side trip to spectacular Atlin Lake, a B.C. provincial park. After overnighting in Whitehorse, take the Alaska Highway to Haines Junction and Kluane National Park. With its surrounding glaciers and endless possibilities for hiking, you could spend a week exploring the emerald waters of Kluane Lake.

Best Digs: You can paddle to the toe of a glacier on a freshwater lake from the U.S. Forest Service’s Mendenhall Campground in Juneau. Bonus: hot showers, flush toilets and RV hook-ups.

Budget Tip: The Alaskan ferry service is called the Marine Highway for a reason: It’s the best way to get around the panhandle and will take you to all the prime coastal paddling destinations. Save money by parking your car in Seattle, Vancouver or Prince Rupert. Walk on the ferry with your kayak and make it a “road” trip

 This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak Magazine, Spring 2013 as part of a Trips feature. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Exclusive Update: Paddler’s Treasure Hunt

Photo: Courtesy of Badger Canoe Paddles
Badger Paddles

Paddlers are finding hidden treasures on portage trails this summer in Ontario. So far, two paddles have been found as part of Paddle In The Park, a unique contest that has trippers winning big for finding these wooden treasures crafted by Badger Canoe

Clues are given to aid paddlers in their search and currently, one paddle had been found on Ragged Lake and one on Rain Lake, both in Algonquin Park. 

The clue for the next paddle we can reveal is:

Clue #8 – Paddle #5
A paddle could be placed here to be won,
All thanks to the work of A.Y.Jackson.

Unknown

Get out there and find that paddle!

Paddle In The Park, along with the help of some well-known trippers, have hidden six Badger Canoe paddles along the portage trails in Algonquin, Temagami and Killarney
. Find a paddle and you get to keep it—plus, win a slew of awesome prizes. The summer-long contest was created as a way to encourage people to reconnect with the outdoors and begins Friday, June 28. Clues to the locations of the paddles will be offered throughout the summer and become increasingly specific
.

The paddle hiders recruited were celebrated adventuers Kevin Callan, Hap Wilson and Preston Ciere—so you know those paddle could be anywhere

The contest will also include draws each time a paddle is found
. Those who find the booty—er, paddles—should contact PaddleInThePark.ca to receive the rest of the prize package, which, besides the hidden paddles, include signed books by authors Kevin Callan, Hap Wilson and Laurie Ann March, along with prizes provided by Portageur.ca, Jeff’s Map, North Water, Swift Canoe, Algonquin Outfitters, Keyak, Hooligan Gear and more.

Paddler-finders will also receive a one-year subscription to Canoeroots and Family Camping magazine. Evn if you’re not in the area you can still win: visit http://paddleintheparkcontest.ca/enter-draw/  and enter for a chace to win gear and paddler swag. 

The contest runs until September 15 or until all the paddles are found, which ever comes first.

For contest rules, and clues about the paddles whereabouts, check paddleintheparkcontest.ca

Sea Kayak Survival Tips

Photo: Flickr user JHo105
9 Tips to keep you safe on the water

The following is an excerpt from an article appearing in a Fall 2008 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine. 

John “Wildey” Wilde started paddling on the open sea as a teenager growing up on England’s exposed northwest coast in the mid-1960s. For the next two and a half decades, he paddled rivers, competing in slalom canoe on the British and Australian national teams. He’s also taken part in more than a dozen Himalayan paddling expeditions, including leading the first descent of Nepal’s Sun Kosi River. These days, John spends more of his time sea kayaking, putting his rough water skills to use along the big-surf coasts of eastern Australia. He is the highest-qualified sea kayaking instructor in Australia. John recently undertook a solo paddle down Tasmania’s rugged east coast, notorious for its foul weather conditions, and survived paddling against 60-knot winds and a love bite from a giant shark. Here, John shares the extra preparations that he credits with saving his life.

1.Stay fit

“When an un-forecast 60- knot offshore wind came up towards the end of a 60-kilometre day, I was faced with a huge struggle to get back to shore—or the next stop would be New Zealand!” John says that if it were not for his strength and conditioning, he would not have made it. “For me, my fitness routine means paddling several times a week—if nothing else on the local lake, as well as rollerblading, some gym work, cross-country skiing in season and, of late (and to combat old age), yoga for flexibility.”

 

2. Have a bombproof (and toothproof) boat

When paddling in deep water offshore, John felt a sudden bump as his kayak lifted out of the water. Heart pounding, he sprinted to shore, to find big grooves in the gel coat and compression cracks in the hull just forward of the seat—and two glistening white shark’s teeth embedded just centimetres from where his thigh had been. John’s usual sea kayak is a lightweight graphite-Kevlar layup. “It is close to 10 years old and I love it, but it is light and easily damaged. My main thoughts were about dragging it up remote beaches fully loaded on my own, or landing in big surf.” So he switched to a heavier, more robust boat, which ended up not only saving the boat from damage, but protecting John himself.

 

3. Paddle hard and carry a predictable stick

For the last four years, John had been paddling mostly with a wing paddle, which is much more efficient for a forward stroke. “But it is hard to brace with, and generally more unstable to use. So I went back to a standard, spooned blade, more stable for bracing into a breaking wave and generally more predictable to use when the going gets tough.”

 

4. Supersize your rudder

If you use a stern-mounted rudder, chances are that in big seas, it spends most if its time out of the water. A handy friend of John’s made him a new rudder, six centimetres longer than the standard. “This bites much better in a following sea, so I have more control, especially when I am under sail.”

 

5. Practice, practice, practice

“I spend a lot of time surf kayaking. This involves lots of rolling, a really basic skill in surf, as well as bracing, balancing and judging waves. All these are essential to serious expedition paddling.”

 

6. Know where you are

Practice navigation skills too; don’t rely on a GPS. John says that expedition paddlers should try to work with charts and maps fairly regularly.

 

7. Test your gear in real-world conditions

Like many Australian paddlers, John frequently uses a kayak sail on the open sea. When testing the sail he intended to take on the trip in gusting 30-knot winds, he suddenly found himself upside-down. And to make things worse, with the weight of the mast and a sail dragging in the water, he was unable to roll up. From this gear test, he chose to completely revamp his system, purchasing a new, smaller sail that is more manageable in high winds along with a much  shorter mast.

 

8. Have a plan B

John says, “Finally I bought a top-of-the-line paddle fl oat, something I have never used before as my roll is usually strong. I had it strapped to the back deck the whole time. It’s always handy to have an insurance policy!”

 

9. Do your rescuers a favor

“If something goes wrong, someone is going to spend a lot of time looking for you.” John feels that you owe it to rescuers to be able to make contact, so he carries a phone secured in a waterproof pack, as well as a VHF radio, PLB (personal locator beacon), and flares stashed in the pocket of his PFD—accessible in case he ever ends up swimming.

 

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak magazine, Fall 2008. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Hawaiian Tuna Show

Tuna Fishing HI
Rob Wong Yuen

Robert Wong Yuen

Here’s a video of my largest tuna caught from my kayak.

http://youtu.be/fU8LbHtAYc8

Dirtbag Road Trip

Photo: Virginia Marshall
Travel cheap on Vancouver Island

Dirtbag road trips are about discovery. Discovering where the locals crash for free, or where seasoned vagrants score a cheap shower. Discovering day-old pizza in the backseat from that late night highway diner with the bleary-eyed waitress. Getting lost and discovering paradise off the map. Dirtbag trips aren’t about deprivation; they’re about doing more with less.

Sample Trip: Vancouver Island 

Travel: 14+ days

Mileage: 950 kilometers

Highlights: Riding the M.V. Frances Barkley to the sheltered inner waters and 100 ruggedly beautiful islands of the Broken Group in Barkley Sound; Clayoquot Sound’s hot springs, bald eagles and the giant cedars of Meares Island; endless sand beaches, perfect island campsites and rafts of sea otters in Kyuquot Sound; and paddling with orcas in Johnstone Strait.

Stop-offs & Detours: En route to Tofino, stretch your legs and your imagination in the Tolkienesque magnificence of Cathedral Grove. Feel small as you wander quiet boardwalks beneath towering, 800-year-old Douglas fir. After a salty stint on the coast, rinse off beneath snow-capped mountains in Sproat Lake. Lying alongside the Pacific Rim Highway, Sproat Lake Provincial Park has camping, hot showers and a grassy picnic area perfect for drying out crusty paddling gear. Like all B.C. provincial parks, day use is free. Take the ferry from Campbell River to Quadra Island to surf some of Vancouver Island’s best park-and-play tidal rapids. Skookumchuck it ain’t, but you’re likely to have the green wave that forms at Surge Narrows an hour and a half after peak flood all to yourself.

Best Digs: The sprawling network of B.C. Recreation Sites offers some of the finest free and dirt-cheap car camping in the province. Rec sites on Vancouver Island range from oceanfront just off the highway to out-of-the-way fishing holes on punishing logging roads. 

Dirtbag Tip: Long drives, pit toilets and back-to-back multi-days leave little opportunity for housekeeping—invest in a roof box. 

 

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak Magazine, Spring 2013 as part of a Trips feature. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Wicked Wind

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Windbound: Blessing in disguise?

“Yup, it does get breezy in these parts.” The launch guard’s weathered face splits into an ironic grin beneath his thick white whiskers.

Espousing understated commentary on the state of the weather seems to be the sole raison d’être for this riverside hermit, as he soon disappears back into the sun-baked, vintage Airstream that rests by the put-in. In the canyons of southern Utah, “breezy” seems to be the local meteorological term for gale-force winds and three-storey dust devils. I reflect on the forecast I had seen the night before; the familiar symbols for sun, clouds, and rain were replaced by the image of a wind turbine.

A twinge of failure seems to accompany any retreat before nature. We have invented high-tech materials to shield us from the sun’s UV rays and protect us from extreme cold, making it possible to extend our paddling pursuits throughout the year and brave fiercer conditions. Yet there remains one element that we Gore-Tex–sporting kayakers are unable to tame. Wind. Blowing the bow spray into our faces and buffeting our paddle blades as we reach to catch the next wave crest. Tearing our eyes and obliterating the voices of our companions.

Powerful, relentless, and unpredictable, the wind is a leading risk for any paddler. Often wind is the catalyst in a chain reaction of mishaps that can lead to paddling calamity. Strong winds can create treacherous waves, and poor judgment about whether or not to head out in these conditions can be the proverbial straw to break the camel’s back. Case in point is an accident in British Columbia’s Howe

Sound that made headlines last October when two men died of hypothermia after capsizing in two-metre seas and 85-kilometre-perhour winds. The incident occurred while the experienced adventure racers were completing a training session that involved paddling to an island, running to the summit, and then returning to mainland by kayak. The wind had picked up by the time the men finished their run, but they set out anyway. A maritime coordinator of the rescue centre later told reporters, “The weather conditions were forecasted. They were known. It was a poor choice.”

Adrenalin-charged adventure racers and under-prepared neophytes are not the only ones who find themselves in trouble when the wind rages. Some of the most preventable accidents and near misses befall experienced paddlers on multi-day trips. Overconfidence with one’s skills, complacency with a familiar area, or a desire to “make the miles” are typical factors. More often than not, we are trying to avoid that helpless feeling that results from being windbound.

Sea kayaking manuals are forever promoting the idea that wind days are somehow a blessing rather than an inconvenience. Being windbound, we are to believe, is something that kayakers should be grateful for; a matchless opportunity to explore the coast from shore, read a book, or socialize with trip mates.

From my experience, however, this optimism is little more than cheerful self-delusion. Playing rummy on the beach while the waves race past is about as satisfying as attending a track and field event on a pair of crutches. It is most likely that you will spend your wind day trapped on a small swath of beach hemmed by impregnable forest, itching to go paddling.

If fate has provided you with a sandy campsite, all of your food will rapidly achieve the consistency of Gojo. Forget casserole or chicken a la king, the taste du jour is grits. Worse, your formerly perennially good-natured trip companions will be just as frustrated and shorttempered as you. If it’s raining and windy, spirits will plummet faster than the barometer.

No, the real merit in taking a wind day is that it is the smart and responsible thing to do, no matter how irksome. The Howe Sound incident occurred around noon; by mid-afternoon, the weather had calmed down. Tragically, if the men had sacrificed their training session and rested on shore for a few extra hours, they might still be alive. Sometimes the boldest decision is that which chooses safety over adventure.

In the Utah Canyonlands, I thank the launch guard for his conversation. My companions and I decide to make camp and wait for the wind to abate. In our meagre shelter beneath an embattled cottonwood, we attempt a game of cards. The wind does its best to sandblast the clothes from our bodies, and eventually we retreat to the cramped confines of our tents. It may not be as exciting as trying to paddle further, but I am sanguine in my surrender to the wind. After all, a little boredom and discomfort never killed anyone.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak, Fall 2008. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Daily Photo: Petal View

Photo: akunamatata
Kayaks

Kayak forms a colorful flower on the water below at En Vau calanque, Cassis, Provence, France. 

This photo is was taken by Flickr user akunamatata and licensed under Creative Commons. Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo

Daily Photo: Quetico Pictograph

This pictograph of a canoe was found in Quetico Provincial Park, Ontario, Canada. where have you seen pictographs?

This photo is was taken by D. Gordon E. Robertson and licensed under Creative Commons. Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo

Editorial: A Paddler’s Life Insurance

Photo: Maxi Kniewasser
Hazardous paddling?

“Do you currently have, have you ever had, been told you have or received treatment or advice for: abnormal blood pressure, coronary artery disease, elevated cholesterol, heart murmur, transient ischemic attack, stroke or any other disorder or disease of the heart, blood vessels or cardiovascular systems?”

“No.”

“In the past three years have you engaged in a hazardous sport or activity, or do you intend to do so within the next 12 months?”

Hazardous sport or activity, I thought to myself. Hmm, what is the correct answer?

So far I’d been able to confidently answer no to almost everything. Now I could feel my face going flush and the hairs on the back of neck standing on end. I was being backed into a corner.

“Do you mean something like hockey or driving on the freeway?”


“No, we mean things like skydiving, rock climbing and whitewater kayaking.”

“Maybe…yes…three days a week, sometimes four.”


“What?”


I’d been down this road before, twice as a matter of fact. Now, with a mortgage and two children, I had promised my wife Tanya that I wouldn’t hang up on the insurance agent. His job, of course, is to assess the insurance company’s level of risk—they want to know how likely I am to die. And they bet against it, stacking the deck in their favor.

Thinking about it this way, I should have felt reassured—they don’t want me to die. Except there’s the bit about checking boxes beside things they don’t understand—things that rack up my annual premium.

They don’t want to know how many miles a year I drive. They don’t ask about my eating habits, or if I do hot yoga (I don’t). Instead, I ended up explaining to the agent the difference between class III and class V. Affirming that I’m a certified instructor, that after 20 years I haven’t had a serious or life-threatening injury on the river. That, no, that wasn’t me you saw on television.

In some ways I can’t blame insurance companies. If their actuaries watched ESPN, Tyler Bradt’s 186-foot drop over Palouse Falls would be a juicy red flag. Still, I doubt the recent tragic death of freeskiing sweetheart Sarah Burke generated an inter-office memo adding skiing to the insurance company’s hazardous activities list.

Why not? Because everyone in the insurance office probably skis. Burke was a professional athlete; she competed at the Winter X Games. They understand the difference between this and their own recreational skiing—or mine. They’re waging their bets that I’m not at my local hill working on Shaun White’s Double McTwist 1260.

In whitewater, I’m not sure even paddlers understand this difference. Lately, there hasn’t really been much of a gap between extreme athlete and recreational boater. Let’s face it; paddling into a monster hole or off a 90-footer is easy. We’re just now beginning to realize that paddling away is not.

I argued passionately with the broker. I may even have convinced him that whitewater was not all that hazardous. In doing so, I realized the best life insurance isn’t a lump sum payment to my designated beneficiaries. Real life insurance is stacking the deck in my favor by making smart decisions on the river. I’ve spent 20 years investing my time and money gaining both knowledge and experience. I’m the beneficiary of this life insurance policy and I’m happy to keep paying the premiums.

 

Scott MacGregor is the founder and publisher of Rapid.

This article originally appeared in Rapid, Spring 2012. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Daily Photo: Tugs and Kayaks

Photo: Mickey Thurman
Kayaks

Kayak parking at the 8th Street Landing on the Hoquiam River, next to the tugs. 

This photo is was taken by Flickr user Mickey Thurman and licensed under Creative Commons. Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo