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Are We There Yet?

Photo: Virginia Marshall
Are We There Yet?

Road tripping is a state of mind. Just ask Jack Kerouac. Don’t let an unwieldy and rebellious payload of kids, gear, boats and pets dampen your spirit. Even though road trips frequently require as many hours in the car as you’ll spend at the destination, highway miles provide an excellent opportunity to share some memorable time together. Enjoy the journey with these stress-saving strategies. 

Navigation

North America’s classic road trip routes boast some serious mileage. The famous Route 66 stretches for 2,451 miles from Chicago to Los Angeles and the TransCanada Highway connects the Pacific and Atlantic coasts over 8,030 kilometers of roadways. 

Reviewing online directions and road maps before you head out is a no-brainer. Folks that are familiar with your destination can also provide valuable info on the condition and location of elusive back roads and shuttle routes—details even a good map can’t provide.

En route, a GPS makes life easier. There is road map software available for many handhelds out there that allows your device to do double-duty, helping you navigate both the front and backcountry.

Teach your kids how to read a map and give them their own copy with your driving route and trip highlights marked. This is a great way to learn map-reading skills and will help minimize backseat boredom. 

Pit Stops

Modern rest stops offer a wide variety of amenities but are seriously lacking in culture. Stopping away from the fast food and concrete of commercial pull-offs lets road trippers enjoy the local way of life.

Despite bypasses on modern interstates and major highways, the fun roadside attractions from the heydays of Route 66 are still out there.

Why not stop at the massive mosquito in Komarno, MB, the life-sized Jolly Green Giant in Blue Earth, MN, or the world’s largest buffalo in Jametown, ND? Drivers can take a deserved break and kids can burn off energy, making the next leg of the journey safer and more comfortable for everyone.

Letting children take charge of an inexpensive digital camera allows them to join in the fun of recording your family experience on the road and at roadside stops.

Hazelmail.com offers a wonderful service that turns your photos into postcards, then prints, stamps and mails them for you. Find a place to stop with wireless Internet connection—plan ahead with listings at Wififreespot. com—and you can easily send a custom postcard from the road. 

Tummy Check

Nothing kills the road trip spirit like motion sickness. Passengers prone to car sickness should avoid reading the latest issue of their favorite canoeing magazine—or anything for that matter—while on the road…save it for the campsite.

Focusing on a point in the distance outside of the vehicle helps the brain settle the stomach—a good reason to leave video games and portable DVD players at home. Rotating passengers to make it easier to see out the front windshield also aids in alleviating motion sickness. Who doesn’t love riding shotgun? 

Pack ginger snaps, peppermints and saltines—all are proven to help with upset stomachs. And remember, while it may slow you down, it’s in everyone’s best interest to stop the care before you hear these for words: “Mom, I’m gonna barf.”

Hauling Your Stuff

Did you know that it’s illegal to tie a dog to the roof of your car in Alaska? Or that Massachusetts law states that you’ll get pulled over if you have a gorilla in your backseat? With these exceptions, it’s easy to ensure a safe, secure and legal load.

Don’t cheap out—a good roof rack is worth its weight in gold. Getting an aerodynamic, durable system makes hauling canoes and gear safer and easier. Many quality systems outlive today’s cars and can be adapted to different vehicles when it’s time for a switch.

Most aftermarket roof rack manufacturers offer lock systems that allow you to secure your gear to your rack and your rack to your car for peace of mind while you’re feasting at Bonanza. A long, steel cable bike lock also works for many applications.

Rooftop bag systems are a versatile, affffordable and easier to store alternative to pricey hard-shell rooftop boxes. Bag systems that attach to the rear od many vehicles free up roof space for bikes or boats. 

Entertainment

The first commercially successful car radio rocked dashboards in 1929. Onboard sing-a-longs to Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody can be traced back to 1975. Since these milestones, most family auto excursions have been made with musics. 

The best way to share the time with your passengers rather than losing them to their headphones is to listen to something together. Before you depart, gather an equal selection of every family member’s music and make one big playlist or multiple CD mixes. On the road, set the player on random. Hey, at least it’s shared suffering.

Local radio can give road trippers a taste of the region they’re vis- iting as well as local weather and road condition updates.

If trying to agree on music threatens Windstar warfare, listen to an audio book. It’s amazing how quickly a good story passes the time on a long trip. Thousands of titles are now available online.

Podcasts are another option. Download Road Trip USA, NPR’s This American Life or CBC Radio’s Vinyl Café for family oriented, road worthy entertainment. 

This article on tips for family road trips was published in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Story Time

Photo: Kathleen Wilker
Story Time

Whitewater isn’t the only thing young paddlers are good at reading. When it’s too cold to paddle or spring showers are falling, snuggling up with a good book about canoes is almost as fun as getting out on the water. We’ve picked four great books to get your paddling library started. 

One Dog Canoe

Story by Mary Casanova. Pictures by Ard Hoyt • Published by Melanie Kroupa Books, 2003 • Ages 2–7

A light-hearted story of how a young girl’s paddle with her faithful dog, “a trip for two, just me and you” turns into a multi-animal pile-up. Fun poetry and great pictures are found on every page. A dog, a beaver, a loon, a wolf, a bear and a moose all jump into the little red canoe that sinks lower with each new animal.

Whatever You Do, Don’t Go Near That Canoe

Story by Julie Lawson. Pictures by Werner Zimmermann • Published by North Winds Press, 1996 • Ages 4–9

Captain Kelsey McKee warns two children and their stuffed kangaroo to stay away from a magical canoe. Unable to resist, the kids hop aboard and soon find themselves swept up “through fast racing currents, through slow moving tides, far into the fading light” and right into a pirate adventure with Big Bart, gin- ger beer and gleaming doubloons.

Shin-chi’s Canoe

Story by Nicola I. Campbell. Pictures by Kim LaFave • Published by Groundwood Books, 2008 • Ages 6 and up

This story is about two children, Shin-chi and his big sister Shi-shi-etko, who are taken to residential school. It’s Shi-shi-etko’s second year, so she tells her brother what to expect—“My english name is Mary. Your english name is David. And don’t forget, we aren’t allowed to talk to each other until June.” She also tells him to comfort himself with memories of their home. At school, Shin-chi holds tight to the little cedar canoe his father gave him and dreams of the dugout canoe that he and his sister will paddle when they finally return home.

The Red Sash

Story by Jean N. Pendziwol. Pictures by Nicolas Debon • Published by Groundwood Books, 2005 • Ages 6–9

A young Métis boy waits for his voyageur father to return to the busy trading post north of superior, where there is to be a rendezvous. A rabbit hunt on a nearby island becomes more of an adventure than the boy, his sister and her suitor intended when a sudden storm hits. at the end of the story, the boy’s courage is rewarded when his father hands him his very own red sash, like a true voyageur.

This article on books for kids was published in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Freedom of the Hills

Photo: Scott MacGregor
Freedom of the Hills

“The greatest gift is a passion for reading,” wrote american literary critic, novelist and short story writer Elizabeth Hardwick. I think she was half right. The other half is a passion for the outdoors.

A paper produced almost 20 years ago by the University of Chicago on early childhood development and learning concluded that, “an infant’s brain structure is not genetically determined. Early experiences have a decisive impact on the architecture of a baby’s brain.”

This makes sense to me. I’m on the nurture side of the nurture-nature debate. I believe we are formed by life experiences.

There is plenty of other research that suggests the development of early literacy skills is critically linked to a child’s success in learning to read. Today, the benefit of reading to our children is drummed into us. Read to your kids, read to your kids, read to your kids. We get it from our parents, teachers and the media. Read. Read. Read.

“When we read to children, brain cells are turned on and new brain cells are formed, adding a bit more definition and complexity to the intricate circuitry that will remain in place for the rest of their lives,” says the university paper.

So if reading to our children is hardwiring them for life, I think we need to be more careful about what we’re reading. What’s happening in their little heads when we read them stories of huffing puffing wolves and thundering waterfalls?

We’re not born afraid of the woods. Mother Goose and Walt Disney scare us into being that way. and they do so without well-meaning parents thinking too much about it.

The comedian famous for one-liners Henny Youngman wrote, “When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading.”

When I realized I was reading to my children about the evils of being outside, I did two things. I took them outside to read. And when we couldn’t go outside, I started reading to them about the fun you can have outside.

The children’s books suggested on the following page are a wonderful start, but I also like to pull from my own library. Like, Tom Brown’s Field Guide to Nature Observation and Tracking. We read a little Tom Brown and then practice sneaking around, we build sticky forts and poke at animal scat. Cool.

Another family favorite is Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills. Out comes the storage bins full of my old lead climbing equipment. We set up complex anchors out of clothes pegs and turkey string. lego mini-figures with ice axes leapfrog the three pitches it takes to reach the summit of the sofa. At least one mini-figure is consequently evacuated from the back cushion by the search and rescue helicopter. Too bad, but it’s better the kids work the bugs out of their rope systems this way than on everest.

Mark Twain wrote, “the man who does not read good books has no advantage over the man who can’t read them.”

Good books for children, in my book, are ones about the wonders of the natural world and ones that inspire adventure, not instill fear. Good books are freedom of the hills and the rivers, even if you have to read them inside. 

This article on children and reading was published in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Line of Least Resistance

Photo: Jamie Orfald-Clarke
Line of Least Resistance

Using lines to control the descent of a canoe through moving water is an age-old art that can provide a welcome alternative to portaging. Once you’ve come to recognize its potential, you may find yourself lining rapids that you would normally have carried around.

First, you’ll need a pair of lines. The rope diameter should be large enough to afford good grip: 1⁄4- to 1⁄2-inch braided floating rope works well. the length of the lines is dependent on the river and personal preference. Shorter lines are easier to manage but may leave you grasping for a runaway canoe. Longer lines allow you to move the canoe further into the current but may result in tangles if you only use a fraction of their length. Thirty- to forty-foot lines are a good compromise. Storing them in throw bags will keep them free of tangles when not in use.

When confronted with shallow or slow moving sections of river, simply tie the lines to the grab loops at each end of the canoe. Be careful not to let the canoe slip broadside into the main current or it will capsize. Tying the lines high above the waterline like this makes the boat easier to drag over rocks but more susceptible to flipping over.

For deeper, more powerful rapids, the best way to tie onto the canoe is with a bridle system. This positions the lines’ attachment point underneath the canoe, helping to prevent capsizing.

Here’s a simple way to tie a bridle: start by folding back eight feet of rope on the end of your line. Next, tie a double overhand knot halfway up the folded section of rope so that you have a big ‘Y’. Then, tie each of the short ends of the ‘Y’ to either side of the canoe’s seat, positioning the center knot under the canoe at the keel line. With a bridle at both the bow and stern, and the load slightly rearranged so that the downstream end of your canoe is heavier, you will have a very stable setup.

Much like paddling rapids, lining is a mental game. Practising in light current with only a few obstacles present, you can learn with how the canoe interacts with the lines and the water. You need to work with the river rather than against it. the same can be said of lining with a partner—effective communication is essential.

To read more on the subtleties of this technique, check out Garrett Conover’s comprehensive book Beyond the Paddle and Bill Mason’s classic Path of the Paddle

This article on lining a canoe was published in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Monsters, Inc.

Photo: James van Nostrand
Monsters, Inc.

James van Nostrand had no grand ambitions when an outfitter from Prince Rupert, B.C., commissioned him to design and build North America’s longest canoe. In fact, the Chilliwack, B.C.-based designer of over 20 boats had his doubts that Seashore Charters’ proposed 65-foot, Pacific Northwest-style canoe would even work.

After studying photographs of a 63-foot Haida dugout built in 1878 and now hanging in the American Museum of Natural History in New York City, van Nostrand became convinced that such a monster would be too awkward to paddle. “It was the depth and flare of the hull,” says van Nostrand, who is best known for shaping most of Abbotsford, B.C.’s Clipper Canoes. “How would you sit there and paddle it comfortably?”

But van Nostrand didn’t give up. His research took him to the Museum of Civilization in Ottawa, where he saw a 57-foot Haida canoe that was built in 1908. The experience was a revelation. Here was a long, sleek craft that was of manageable depth for paddling, he recalls.

“It wasn’t until I met that canoe face-to-face that I knew I could build a 65-footer that would work.”

He set about drafting quarter-scale crosssections of the hull, basing his design on his experience shaping Clipper’s line of 22- to 36-foot Big Canoes.

Over a hectic six-week period concluding in January 2010, van Nostrand and a team of builders transferred his hand-drawn lines to a plywood building form, covered it with thin strips of foam and fiberglassed it inside and out. Off the mold, the 80-inch-wide canoe was finished with thwarts, seats and an on-board inflatable life raft. It was then painted by Metlakatla First Nations artist Mike Epp with the insignias of the four coastal clans: the raven, wolf, orca and eagle.

Christened Ha’nda’wit’waada—the canoe that brings people together—van Nostrand’s canoe does just that. In its inaugural year, groups of up to 48 people from around the world propelled it on day tours along the northern coast of British Columbia.

“It’s been 140 years since canoes this big paddled the coast,” says Seashore Charters guide Peter Loy. “People can really feel the spirit in it.”  

This article on canoe building was published in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Classic Alpine Adventures

Photo: Tim Shuff
Classic Alpine Adventures

Imagine watching the first warm rays of dawn blush the frozen summits above your camp, or floating spellbound beneath steep ranks of silent forest. Backpackers have long bartered for a taste of priceless mountain beauty with heavy packs, tiny tents and crummy food. But mountain lakes oblige canoeists with a leisurely, pampered route into sublime scenery. Don’t forget the Dutch oven for fresh brownies.

Yellowstone Lake • Wyoming

At 20 miles long and 14 miles across, and perched nearly 8,000 feet above sea level, Yellowstone Lake in the famous park of the same name is large and high enough to create its own weather, quickly transforming the lake from mirror-smooth to meringue-choppy. With a healthy respect for changeable conditions—figure on one day in every three as an onshore wind/hiking day—canoeists can escape the motorized mainstream and penetrate into the wild heart of the park. The motorboat-restricted Southeast Arm makes a fine weeklong, out-and-back trip from Sedge Bay. Watch for moose, elk, osprey, bald eagles, bear and even bison.

Maligne Lake • Alberta

Ringed by snow-capped peaks and three ice fields, Jasper National Park’s Maligne Lake is the largest natural water body in the Canadian Rockies. Solitude seekers should visit in September and head for two canoe access only campsites at Fisherman’s Bay and Coronet Creek. Fisherman’s Bay boasts nearby vistas of iconic Spirit Island floating on jade green waters, while Coronet Creek lies 22 kilometers from the parking area, beyond the reach of most tour boats. Both are great places to dip a line for record-sized rainbow and brook trout.

Bowron Lake Chain • British Columbia

The Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit is a justifiably popular weeklong trip in central British Columbia’s Cariboo Mountains. Traveling 116 kilometers through 10 lakes, circuit paddlers can expect back-to-back two-kilometer portages, swiftly flowing rivers and sudden squalls of thermal winds in the steep-walled valleys. Bowron Lake Provincial Park’s excellent sandy beach swimming, waterfalls and plethora of alpine scenery are ample rewards. Wet your hull in late May, June or September for the choicest campsites and fewest portage trail pile- ups.

Henderson Lake • New York

Nestled in the mountainous embrace of the Adirondack Forest Preserve’s marquee High Peaks Wilderness lies little known Henderson Lake. As the crow flies, Henderson is just 15 miles south of the crowded Saranac Lakes, but in between is a roadless tract of 3,500-foot summits and steep, shadowy river valleys. Privately owned for over 175 years, this deep, clear lake is now open to the public, allowing paddlers to explore its many secluded arms. For an adventurous weekend of solitude even in mid-summer, brave the two-mile carry from the lake’s northwest end to the Preston Ponds and Duck Hole—14 miles roundtrip.

 

This article on alpine trips was published in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. 

Editorial: Oil and Water

Photo: Melissa Stone
Editorial: Oil and Water

It seemed 2010 was a year filled with pe troleum-related disaster—the Gulf, Lake Michigan, the Niger delta, the Yellow Sea. Gushing crude made for dramatic headlines, but these stories were as much about water as they were about oil.

In North America, we have 11.5 percent of the world’s renewable freshwater resources. However, our surplus is no excuse for sloppy stewardship or lack of policy governing downstream rights, ownership and access to water.

The Upper Delaware—a designated National Wild and Scenic River—topped American Rivers’ 2010 list of America’s Most Endangered Rivers. This watershed, which provides drinking water for 17 million people in New York and Pennsylvania, is threatened by development of the vast Marcellus Shale natural gas field.

While our understanding of balanced development and conservation continues to expand, as canoeists, so should our awareness and responsibility for our waterways.

With the spike in natural gas prices, the region has the potential to become one of the U.S.’s most lucrative energy deposits. Exploration and extraction come at the cost of surface and groundwater toxicity along with soil and habitat contamination throughout the Upper Delaware catchment.

In northwestern Canada, the Mackenzie River basin rivals the scale of the Amazon and Congo rivers. The Mackenzie is fed by a set of waterways at the epicenter of the largest industrial project on earth, the Alberta tar sands.

Currently, between two and five barrels of water are required for each barrel of oil extracted from the sands. This means the tar sands draw enough water every year to meet the needs of a city of 2.5 million people. Much of that water comes from the Athabasca River, raising concerns of overdrawing the resource.

The release of tailings into the Athabasca and the surrounding groundwater supply further intensifies pressure on the area. Tens of thousands of miles of waterways are affected by this continual contamination of the North’s most significant watershed.

This year marks an opportunity to clean things up. While our understanding of balanced development and conservation continues to expand, as canoeists, so should our awareness and responsibility for our waterways.

When a project like the Canadian Heritage Rivers System (CHRS) hits a milestone like it has in 2011, it’s worth celebrating. The CHRS program operates under the notion that rivers have shaped our continent and its people. And, under its framework, the people—communities, rec- reational user groups and landowners—are responsible for designating waterways as Heritage Rivers.

So hats off to organizations like American Rivers and programs such as the CHRS for engaging North Americans, keeping us all from being left thirsty for more.

This article on freshwater resources was published in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Spring 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Migration Sensation

Photo: Courtesy of SkinBoats.org/Alaska Archives
Migration Sensation

In 2008, scientists made a rather exciting discovery at a cave in Paisley, Oregon—ancient human turds buried in 14,000-year-old rock strata.

Science has long assumed the first people to inhabit the Americas—the Clovis people—walked across Berengia, a land bridge over the Bering Strait, from Siberia and southward through the Rockies 11,000– 12,000 years ago.

The Paisley discovery rocked the scientific world. Says archaeologist David Meltzer, “The pre-Clovis genie is out of the bottle, and there’s no way of stuffing it back in.”

People before Clovis? Since the Ice Age was still in full swing, the high mountain passage that the Clovis are believed to have used would have been buried in ice.

These earlier settlers must have traveled by sea, and like the hunter-gatherers they were, followed marine animals living on rich coastal kelp forests. Enter the first paddlers in the New World.

Their route took them along the shore of Berengia, down the coast of Alaska and along the outside of the Queen Charlotte Islands, finally arriving at ice-free Oregon some 2,000 kilometers later.

Anthropologist Dr. Niobe Thompson speculates in his recent documentary, The Code Breakers (CBC, The Nature of Things, January 2010) that these ancient mariners likely built umiaks—wide, open boats up to 40 feet long, powered by single blade paddles or oars and fashioned from walrus skin, driftwood and bone.

To envision these vessels, you need look no further than Arctic photo archives or the work of replica builders like Washington state’s Skin Boat School. Says Thompson, “We can only assume that what works in recent times—the structure of the modern Alaskan and Chukotkan umiak—is similar in function and appearance.”

Unfortunately, the sea long ago reclaimed the coastline these ancient boats traveled, which means scientists may never find hard evidence of their passage. Nevertheless, Thompson says, “Pieces of the puzzle…give us a sense that sea travel was the only way humans could have reached North America…before the Ice Age ended.”  

This article on new world explorers was published in the Early Summer 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Eary Summer 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Flight Plan

Photo: Ian Scriver
Flight Plan

As paddling season gets underway in remote destinations, would-be trippers looking to access roadless routes may find themselves lost amid conflicting information on floatplane logistics.

For many popular bush plane models like Cessnas, Beavers and single engine Otters, strapping a canoe onto the floats is the only transport option. However, regulations applicable to flying with external loads are often ambiguous.

According to Transport Canada spokesperson Melanie Quesnel, “Flying a canoe externally is prohibited without a permit.” In the lower 48, the Federal Aviation Administration also requires special certification to transport canoes on floats.

Permits are issued to operators on an individual basis so different carriers may or may not be allowed to transport canoes despite using the same type of plane.

“In the 1970s, the FAA’s Alaskan division developed guidance for carrying external loads…[that] requires the aircraft be moved into the restricted category,” says FAA Public Affairs representative Elizabeth Isham Cory. In Alaska, restricted aircraft can only carry crewmembers—no passengers— while transporting external loads.

The spirit behind regulation is sensible— policy-makers, pilots and passengers don’t want to see mishaps.

The Transportation Safety Board of Canada reports nine accidents involving externally loaded canoes. Whether the boats were directly to blame for the incidents is unclear.

Because of the nature of small scale operations, “meaningful regulation and enforcement are a long way off,” says Al Pace, owner/operator of Canoe North Adventures, an award winning outfitter based out of the Yukon and Northwest Territories that relies on floatplanes for 80 percent of its trips.

“Larger carriers come under much greater scrutiny than your average Ma and Pa charter operation,” Pace continues. He also notes the divide between the rule-makers and what’s going on at remote floatplane bases.

“There’s no question that operators determine their own techniques,” Pace says, alluding to the bush pilots who opened up the North long before regulations were ever considered. “If [authorities] really want to develop solid policy, they should leave their desks and join us on some trips up here.” 

This article on fly in regulations was published in the Early Summer 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

The Voyage Home

Photo: James Raffan
The Voyage Home

Four years ago, when then 15-year-old Angulalik Pedersen left Kugluktuk, Nunavut, to attend high school on full scholarship at Upper Canada College in Toronto, he brought with him a dream that one day he could take some of his southern class- mates north to visit his hometown on the Arctic Ocean.

In the summer before Pedersen’s final year, with the help of his geography teacher at UCC and the Kitikmeot Inuit Association, he finally pulled it all together—a canoe trip on the Coppermine River that would end at his house on July 9, Nunavut Day.

The goal of the expedition—named Atanigi, “when two things come together” in the language of Kugluktuk—was to bring together Pedersen’s new classmates with youth from his home in the North. Because paddling is part of the extra-curricular program at UCC, Pedersen had no trouble drumming up interest for the trip in Toronto. Back home, however, extra-curricular activities involved powerboats, snow machines and ATVs…but not canoes.

With the infectious enthusiasm of Kugluktuk High School counselor cum recruitment officer Kenny Taptuna, however, half a dozen northern youth signed up. They found a canoe and the will to start learning strokes. Unfortunately, it was May and nearly everything was still frozen. As a result, when the group gathered as a whole for the first time on Air Tindi’s wharf in Yellowknife, half had no real paddling experience on flatwater, let alone preparation for whitewater.

Incredibly, the northerners surmounted their inexperience with natural athleticism and a seemingly near-genetic familiarity with boats in general. Aided by the skill and determination of three wilderness guides, the group practiced strokes and maneuvers on the first hundred or so kilometers of calm water near the Northwest Territories/Nunavut border.

By the time the crew turned north at Big Bend and started into the current and class II–III rapids for which the Coppermine is known, cross-cultural paddling teams were working like reasonably well-oiled machines. On the more difficult rapids, lead guide Colin Smith lashed two canoes together to make a pontoon boat— a.k.a. the “party barge”—which created a super stable, almost relaxing whitewater experience for novice paddlers.

At the Coppermine campsites, Taptuna taught nightly lessons in Inuit language and traditional games. Others started string games, throat singing lessons and impromptu inukshuk-building workshops. Traditions from the north and south blended in the common experience of paddling to the Arctic Ocean under the midnight sun.

When the paddlers arrived cold, wet and happy in Kugluktuk on Nunavut Day, they were celebrated for coming together to accomplish something remarkable. Pedersen and the other northerners were recognized by the town as the first people ever from that community to arrive via the river.

Equally significant was the realization of one young person’s dream to make this land just a little bit smaller by bringing people together in canoes.

This article on the Coppermine River was published in the Early Summer 2011 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2011 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.