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Grandcamping on the Rise

Photo: Ian Merringer
Grandcamping on the Rise

A third wheel—or generation—can really get in the way on a camping trip. That’s why a few wise companies have started organizing outdoor adventure and camping programs strictly for grandparents and grandchildren—parents have to find their own fun.

“It’s a unique learning experience,” says Despina Gakopoulos of Elderhostel, a non- profit group that organizes more than 400 inter-generational programs around the world. “Grandparents and grandchildren say they get to know more about each other when they spend time without the parents around.” She says the outdoor adventure trips are growing in popularity as outdoor activities like camping and rock climbing become more mainstream.

Myrna Boulding started running Elderhostel’s inter-generational programs in 1986 at Strathcona Park lodge on Vancouver Island. “The programs and activities are designed so the two generations learn

And experience new things together,” she says. “It’s a real bonding experience.”

Most of Elderhostel’s programs are run by a camp or resort like Strathcona, where the week-long program is really just summer camp with the grandparents. Groups of grandkids and grandparents learn to canoe, rock climb, hike and then camp overnight under the watchful eye of an instructor. It’s no torture test though. If grandparents don’t feel up for anything— including a night on a camp mattress—they can always opt out.

Boulding says both generations make new friends in the groups. “I don’t know which generation has more fun.” 

This article on grandparents was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Canoeroots’ print and digital editions here.

Family Camping: I Want to Ride My Bicycle

Photo: Rick Matthews
Family Camping: I Want to Ride My Bicycle

I can’t pick up a parenting book or magazine without ranting to my wife about the often useless, and I suspect completely made-up, quotes from pseudo parents the authors use to make their points. Take for example this one from The Mother of All Toddler Books, Sharon, a 29-year-old mother of one, says, “You have to believe in the discipline method you’re using in order to be able to properly enforce it.”

Thanks Sharon.

First of all who is Sharon (or Nicole, Loree or Kathlene) and what makes her more of an authority on nutrition or behaviour modification than any other parent? I don’t want to hear about their problems, I want advice from experts with ph.Ds or at least from parents with real experience (like 11 kids).

The other problem I have is that these authors are always telling me how to deal with problems, not how to prevent them. For example, if you want your toddlers to stop whining, your pre-schoolers to have an appetite and your teenagers to stay out of trouble, I say get them outside and allow them freedom to explore… I say get them on a bicycle.

ADVENTURE, TRAVEL, AND INDEPENDENCE ON A BIKE

Biking is such an important part of family camping. Riding bikes is something you can do around the campground or it can be the means of travel for a week-long camping vacation. Bikes offer adventure, travel, skidding, jumping and the fastest way to get fishing in the creek. Bikes for kids are independence and exercise, two things that have never been more important than in our modern Xbox world.

To support my argument, and in the spirit of mocking the advice found in mainstream parenting media, I present to you three experts who really do exist, whose advice I respect and whose desire to be outside and riding bikes with kids is truly inspiring.

Beth Rubenstein from Kingston, Ontario, a 32-year-old mother of two and family doctor, cycled with her husband and seven-month-old daughter Zoe from Amsterdam to Brussels, “We didn’t want to give up our active travel holidays just because we’d had a baby. It turns out the rhythms of travelling with a baby are well suited to a cycling vacation. When she slept we rode. When she was awake we rested and explored. And at night we camped. It was really that easy and not that different than our other cycling trips.” 

Rick and Wendy Matthews, grandparents in their late 50s from Mount Hope, Ontario, remember back to their cycling trips with their kids in the early 1980s. “The bikes went with us on every camping trip. When Laura and Jason were 15 and 11 we flew overseas for a four-week trip through Yorkshire and Wales,” remembers Rick. “In the hostels they got to meet kids from around the world.” Twenty years later, three generations of Matthews go family camping together and on at least one four-day cycling trip every summer (photo above).

Doug Detwiller, an elementary school teacher living in Gibson, British Columbia, along with other cycling enthusiasts and parents developed Sprockids, a national program that introduces kids to cycling. Nine to twelve year-olds work their way through a fun program of riding skills, bike mechanics and safety and etiquette.

Funny, you’d think a program kids enjoy and is credited with building self-esteem, empathy for others and providing kids with a feeling of belonging would be mentioned in parenting books and magazines.

Maybe Sharon, the 29-year-old mother of one, doesn’t believe in riding bikes.

But I do. 

This article on cycling was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Canoeroots’ print and digital editions here.

Of Writers, Canoes, and Reincarnation

Photo: Canadian Canoe Museum
Of Writers, Canoes, and Reincarnation

Farley Mowat says the spark that brought him into being was kindled in a canoe called Conception on Lake Ontario’s Bay of Quinte. The boat was dark green and paddled by his parents on a sultry August evening in 1920. “My mother,” says Canada’s most colourful writer, “denied this vehemently.”

His father, Angus, just smiled when the topic came up in conversation. But there, the story slips the bonds of earthly logic.

Fast forward to Peterborough, Ontario, 2006. Farley’s nephew had driven him up from Port Hope to have a first peek through the Canadian Canoe Museum.

Farley introduced himself to a startled docent. “I said, ‘My name is Farley Mowat and I’d like to give you a canoe.’ He looked at me as if I’d said my name was Adrienne Clarkson or something. I thought he was going to throw me out. Eventually… they believed me.”

The only catch was that the craft was stored in a barn on Cape Breton Island.

As museum volunteers who had plans to be in Nova Scotia last summer, my wife and I jumped at the call to be couriers. It’s not every day one gets the chance to drop in on a storyteller who has sold 18 million books in 24 languages.

Farley’s wife, Claire, met us outside their seaside summer home. Chester the dog saw us in. The octogenarian sailor, wolf chaser, paddler and storyteller extraordinaire was just surfacing from a siesta. After a quick drink we headed out to the barn where the sailing canoe was stored, and carefully loaded the craft and its various bits—mast, sail, leeboards, splash guards and rudder—before heading back inside to hear the story. 

THE REINCARNATION OF CONCEPTION

“It’s a 1921 Peterborough sailing canoe that my father acquired around 1932 in Saskatoon, of all places,” he began. “I was 11 that summer.”

Back then, the Mowats spent summers living in a caravan at a campsite on the banks of the South Saskatchewan River about eight kilometres downstream from town where Farley’s dad worked as librarian. Angus used to commute to work in the canoe, leaving young Farley with vivid memories of his dad portaging his pride and joy from the river through the centre of town to the library.

This pale green canoe had been his first connection to nature, on the sloughs of Saskatchewan. Later, when Farley brought it home to the same Bay of Quinte he was supposedly conceived on, he resolutely rigged the lateen sail before a howling gale on Lake Ontario. Moribund over love gone wrong, Farley was ready to cast his adult fates to the wind and accept whatever verdict the green canoe and the storm handed down.

Through the tempest the canoe delivered him, and a couple of empty rum bottles, safely on the beach near the village of Consecon. He was awoken the following morning by the light of a rising sun, lying beside her, miraculously demon-free. “I wrote a poem about that night that I’d like to give to the museum along with the canoe,” said Farley.

All I could think was, Woah! I hope we don’t get creamed by a transport truck on the way home.

“But was this the green canoe in which you were conceived?” I finally asked. “Well,” said Farley, “Angus called it Vagabond, but sometimes he would slip and call her Conception. To me, she’s Conception.”

By degrees I came to see that whatever its official provenance, this faded green Peterborough, if not the canoe, certainly houses the soul of Farley’s natal canoe. It’s not the canoe Farley Mowat was conceived in. It’s better than that. Vagabond is the reincarnation of Conception, and one of our greatest writers captured the transformation in a poem about his canoe.

James Raffan is currently editing the diaries of paddler Herb Pohl, entitled The Lure of Far Away Places. 

This article on Farley Mowat was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Canoeroots’ print and digital editions here.

Betcha Didn’t Know About Smoke

Photo: flickr.com/ruanon
Betcha Didn't Know About Smoke
  • Smoke consists of airborne particles rising with hot air currents after the incomplete combustion of fuel.
  • The hotter a fire is burning, the less smoke it produces.
  • Smoke may be used to preserve meat because it consists of particles of various chemicals such as carbolic acid. These chemicals coat the meat and prevent bacteria and mould from spoiling it.
  • Green or fresh wood produces more smoke because it contains about half its weight in water and therefore does not burn as completely.
  • You can predict the weather by observing the behaviour of your campfire smoke. If it rises straight up you are in a system of high pressure and the weather will be fair. If the smoke hangs around the ground you are in a low pressure area and wet weather is likely.
  • CB radio operators use the term “Smokey” to alert each other to the presence of police officers.
  • 1984 Surgeon General’s Warning: “Smoking causes lung cancer, heart disease, emphysema, and may complicate pregnancy.”
  • Mosquitoes avoid the downwind side of campfires because many of the suspended particles in smoke are toxic. 
  • Deep Purple’s song “Smoke on the Water” tells the story of a night in Montreaux, Switzerland, in 1971. Frank Zappa was playing a concert when a fan lit off a flare gun. The ensuing fire burned down the casino in which Deep Purple had planned to record Machine Head.
  • No matter how many times you repeat it, the phrase “I hate white rabbits” has absolutely no repellent effect on campfire smoke blowing in your eyes. 

This article on smoke was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Canoeroots’ print and digital editions here.

Jagger Paddles the Nahanni River

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Jagger Paddles the Nahanni River

With the recent release of “Nahanni Song” credited to a certain British songwriter by the name of Jagger, it’s no longer a secret that a big-name British rocker paddled the northern river in 2005.

That summer, the Rolling Stones were in Toronto rehearsing for their upcoming North American tour. Late in the summer, the 59-year-old vocalist Jagger covertly jetted to the Northwest Territories for a week-long trip on Canada’s most famous canoeing river.

Starstruck guides schooled the aging rocker in river safety and bear protocol before escorting him down the South Nahanni.

“I decided it was about time to visit Canada—the real Canada, not the cities but the wide open country of lakes, mountains and rivers,” said Jagger, whose father wrote books about canoeing and nearly raced at the 1948 Olympics.

Jagger was so inspired by the Canadian wilderness that he penned a song about the river. A lucky audience got a sneak preview of “Nahanni Song” when Jagger dropped in for a post-trip jam at Yellowknife’s storied Wildcat Café.

The lyrics (Beautiful river/Running so free/But it’s goodbye/To the Nahanni) combine Jagger’s post-trip melancholy with his fear for the river’s future. “The song came along when I was at the landing after the trip was all but over… I guess it’s an offering,” Jagger says of the song.

The lyrics provide a rare glimpse at the nature-lover behind Chris Jagger’s public persona as lead vocalist, guitarist and occasional washboard player for the zydeco-funk band Atcha!

You can hear “Nahanni Song” as a bonus track on import copies of Atcha!’s latest album, Act of Faith, alongside a rare duet with Jagger’s older brother, Mick, who also visited Canada in 2005 and is a successful musician in his own right—albeit a less accomplished paddler. Download “Nahanni Song” and read Chris’ trip journal at www.chrisjaggeronline.comgeronline.com.

This article on music was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Canoeroots’ print and digital editions here.

With a Passionate Heart: Achieving Personal Limits

Photo: Wendy Killoran
With a Passionate Heart: Achieving Personal Limits

I discovered sea kayaking when I was five months pregnant and not quite 29 years old. I
was watching a sunset at Flamingo Campground in the Florida Everglades. The sun was framed by silhouetted palm trees and diving pelicans splashing into the bay with wings folded back. Then I saw a sleek kayak glide peacefully into the scene. This first impression stayed in my mind, growing like a well-watered seed until, many years later, kayaking came to define my life.

I waited one and a half years after the birth of my daughter before taking my first kayak journey, a guided trip on Georgian Bay – I couldn’t leave a newborn and the demands of motherhood preceded all other notions. It took only a few strokes to realize that kayaking would become a significant part of my life. I felt I belonged on the water.

From then on, I made short kayak trips with guided groups to exotic places for a week once or twice a year. I paddled the barrier reef off the shore of Belize. I camped and kayaked along the Exumas, a chain of islands in
 the Bahamas. And I paddled among icebergs in east Greenland.

These short breaks renewed my spirit and whet my appetite. I studied maps and dreamed of far-away paddling destinations, but I had parental obligations and these dreams simmered in my active imagination.

Eventually, I bought a used kayak from a tour company and I paddled
at The Pinery, a provincial park on Lake Huron. The Pinery had been my special place since early childhood, but now I enjoyed the dunes and beach from a new perspective. I was attuned to the subtle differences in the quality of light, in the clouds in the sky, in the changing of the seasons.

On the water I felt alive. My senses awakened to the rush of wind or the sting of icy water. I revelled in the songs of loons and the flight of bald eagles. My spirituality strengthened as I felt my small place in this complex but beautiful world, connected to all that exists.

AQUA THERAPY

Kayaking was my aqua therapy, a means to wash away the stresses of daily life, to get away from the continuous demands that society places upon us, or that we allow society to place upon us.

I built my confidence by paddling in varied conditions in all seasons
and in many places. I read about kayaking. I took courses and paddled with strong paddlers to strengthen my skills.

As much as I enjoyed paddling with others, I found it easiest to paddle
on my own. It meant I could paddle wherever and whenever I wanted. I relied only on myself and felt a deeper sense of being on the water. My focus was on my surroundings, not on my partners. My days as an elementary school teacher working with 150 kids a day are busy enough that I fervently seek these moments of solitude.

In 2003, in the Westfjords of Iceland, I met a remarkable woman.

Shawna Franklin was paddling around Iceland with two male partners. Her energy, vitality and genuine love for the world shone brightly. She looked at me and spoke of living true to myself.

This was an epiphany. Up until then, I had always done things to please others. I had followed the “system”, getting a university degree and a good job, getting married and raising a family, taking on a hefty mortgage. Yet it was my brief forays into nature by kayak that truly made me feel joyful and alive.

I was also inspired by a poem, The Invitation by Oriah Mountain Dreamer, which says “dare to dream
of meeting your heart’s longing” and “risk looking like a fool for love, for your dream, for the adventure of being alive.” This reiterated what I already knew but had been afraid to do for so long: to live true to my soul, which sang of being free on the water, to follow my dreams and find peace and fulfillment.

And so I found the courage to plan bigger challenges. In 2004, I paddled around Manitoulin Island, the world’s largest freshwater island. Geographical extremes appeal to me as do islands that have their own unique identities, and Manitoulin lies at the northern tip of Lake Huron. I paddled the 350 kilometres in 12 days.

A WHOLE SUMMER TO PADDLE

In 2005, I took a leave of absence from teaching during the months of May and June, giving me the whole summer to paddle. I chose to circumnavigate Prince Edward Island.

Again, it was a geographical extreme as it was the only province that I could completely circumnavigate. I was the first woman to complete the entire 600-kilometre circumnavigation, paddling it in 15 days. I then felt I could accomplish anything I put my mind to.

The following summer, I again took the months of May and June
off work, this time to paddle around Newfoundland, a demanding journey of almost 3,000 kilometres. Again I would be the first woman to do so.

I started my journey with much trepidation on a cold, wet, dreary and windy day early in May. What had I gotten myself into? I felt relieved to be paddling part of the south shore with another accomplished female sea kayaker, Freya Hoffmeister from Germany. She helped give me the strength and courage to complete the remainder of the journey alone.

I often dug to the depths of my core to face wind, waves, fog, lightning,
and long open water crossings of enormous bays. At times I felt utterly alone on such a vast and unforgiving ocean and often arrived humbled on shore, relieved to set foot on solid ground. Many days I spent eight, nine to paddle in exotic destinations and or even 10 hours in my kayak before share my experiences as a presenter at finding a landing place.

I arrived safe at Isle Aux Morts at the exact dock where I’d started 104 days earlier. I averaged 40 kilometres a day on the 68 days I paddled. Succeeding on these expeditions has meant sponsorships, the chance to paddle in exotic destinations and share my experiences as a presenter at symposiums around the world. I have even taken this whole year off teaching to continue kayaking full time.

KAYAKING AS A SELFISH INDULGENCE

These rewards have come at a price. My spirit is renewed, my zest for life continues to grow, but indulging my needs is in many ways selfish.

I have had to leave my family, who are non-paddlers, for extended periods. It has created enormous friction in my personal life when loved ones cannot fully understand my need to reach for these extended journeys at the cost of being home and making money. Because kayaking distant shores requires financial security and extended time off, I am still dependent on a job that is draining my life energy. Having sponsors also brings obligations. Some of the spontaneity of quietly travelling is taken away with the continual need to blog about my experiences and give up my privacy.

But I will continue to seek kayaking adventures. It is what fulfills me and 
makes me happy. And I enjoy sharing my experiences with others. My perspective of looking from the outside towards the inside is so different from the experiences of most. Maybe I can inspire someone to grow by stepping outside of their comfort zone. It is important to keep growing as a person throughout life’s journey. The motto on
my blog states, “Make the journey of life a beautiful adventure.” Think of a dream and then visualize how you can make it happen. I am a petite, middle-aged woman. It is through sheer passion and strength of mind that I make my dreams into reality.

For years and years I devoured accounts of personal triumphs in adventure and dreamed that I too could follow my dreams. Finally, in mid-life, I reached for my dreams, realizing that time lost is irreplaceable. I feel that if you can dream it, you can do it. Achieving new personal limits has taught me that the only limits set upon ourselves are made by ourselves, in our minds.

Wendy Killoran lives and works in London, Ontario. She presents at sea kayaking symposiums worldwide and blogs at kayakwendy.com

This article on Wendy Killoran was published in the Spring 2008 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2008 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

In Parting: The Search

Photo: Dave Quinn
In Parting: The Search

On Hecate Strait, B.C., a storm-wracked beach with a steep pile of driftwood and flotsam that extended into the haunting, moss-draped chaos of forest above the gravel, my hunt began. Bottles and driftwood and fishing floats had been tossed into there by some fierce winter storm. Torpedo-shaped buoys, basketball-sized buoys, plastic buoys, metal buoys, netting, rope, lighters, oil cans, shampoo bottles, a whole plastic hardhat, a car bumper, mangled chunks of aluminum boat hull.

But, goddamn, no glass balls.

Jonathan Raban, in Passage to Juneau, says the West Coast natives were the first to find Japanese glass fishing floats, along with wreck- age with iron and copper fittings and other Asian artifacts washed in on the Kuroshio current and the north Pacific drift. They believed, he writes, that these things floated in from submarine civilizations inhabited by the mythical creatures Komogwa and nazunakas—like a couple of “fat undersea emperors.”

“In effect, the Indians had dreamed Japan into being, but located it, like Atlantis, somewhere at the bottom of the ocean.”

Glass balls adrift from a magic kingdom of the sea—how I dreamed of finding one!

LOTS OF PLASTIC, BUT NO GLASS TO BE FOUND

On Princess Royal Island, I poked around in the huge driftwood piles on two beaches, found a yellow roadway sign to pound on like a drum, marker pens and highlighters and driftwood. Found wolf trails, tufts of fur, a favourite howling spot, even a wolf—a real wolf at the end of the beach.

On the Brooks Peninsula, windbound, I searched for glass balls. Found: A plastic fishing buoy with Japanese characters on it, half full of water, bleach bottles, fish floats, blocks of Styrofoam, a jar of salad dressing, plastic water bottles, tide laundry detergent bottles, very little glass and no glass balls.

Saw bear tracks, walked around an island, faced the sun and watched water pound home. Fragrant spruce sap on my fingers. Plastic bottles under mossy driftwood in groves of salal in the middle of the island, brought there by historic storms.

All these things, no glass balls. But by this time it was just an excuse to go walking.

Scrambled over rocks, plants I’d never seen, tidepools of eelgrass and anemone and crab, stagnant pools green with algae, bones, shells of butter clams and moon snails, worn round pebbles, a group of seals lying on the rocks by a large tide pool on the other side of the island. A boomer that, just once, refracted and sent a house-sized pyramid of water straight up with an exclamation mark of white atop, backlit by sun, green as glass. Glass! 

This article on what you find on ocean beaches was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Dream Big: Find Your Dream Partner

Photo: Josh McCulloch
Dream Big: Find Your Dream Partner

When I was assigned to write about “finding your dream paddling partner,” I balked and wondered what I was going to say that wouldn’t sound too sickly sweet or, even worse, like a lie. People see the photos of us laughing together on the water and think that my wife Rochelle and I must have some perfect paddling relationship where every trip is effortless and every destination is some sort of ideal Shangri-la of domestic bliss and organized camping efficiency. But the truth is, sometimes we fight like cats and dogs.

We suffer from the same challenges that afflict other paddling couples. I paddle too fast. She paddles too slowly. I want to go too far, getting hung up on mileage done and reaching a prescribed destination. She wants to take her time and actually see things along the way.

I feel that meals in the backcountry should be simple affairs, generating the least amount of dirty dishes possible. My culinary motto is “feed the hole,” and I often favour boil-in-a-bag substitutes for real food. She plans elaborate menus with exotic ingredients that require careful transport and generate piles of dirty pots and pans.

I want a streamlined, spare but effective packing system. She wonders how to get more big puffy pillows into the boats.

So how do you find the dream paddling partner? My first thought was, You don’t, because they don’t exist. It’s a fantasy. It’s really hard to find the right person. And when you do, there’s the challenge of coordinating busy schedules. That’s why I often paddle alone. It’s so much easier just to grab the boat and go. Paddling solo is simple and free. You have only yourself to please, and only yourself to blame if things go wrong.

But there’s more to finding the right partner than finding someone who’s easy to paddle with. Consider some deeper questions.

Who is always good company, day in and day out?
 With whom do I have the best rapport? 
Who’s the most fun?
 Who looks out for me, truly having my best interests at heart? 
Who puts up with my bad moods, and jollies me along even when I’m being childish or grumpy?
 And most importantly: who do I miss most when I see something amazing on the water? Who do I most want to share it with?
 For me, the answer is easy: my wife—my beautiful, talented, wonderful wife Rochelle.
 She wasn’t even in my office just then, peering over my shoulder as I typed that last sentence. No, in fact she’s away for a few days right now, and there’s nothing like the absence of something precious to remind us of its true value.

And as for our different approaches to kayak touring—not only are the meals she makes wonderful, she always cooks enough for both of us. Even if I com- plain about the madness of attempting a crème brûlée on an MSR stove (brûlée indeed).

And she always shares her pillows with me.
And we laugh together. Sooner or later, we always end up laughing.
We cuddle on cold nights and she’ll always trade me a back massage for a foot rub.
She’s a great friend, and I love her.
So if you want things quick and easy, go paddling alone, but if your concept of

dream paddling partner encompasses kayaking as a metaphor for life—the ocean as the wide world and our boat as our little place within it—then the answer is clear. Paddle with the one you love. It’s not always easy, but ultimately it is far more rewarding, and in the great journey there’s no better choice than a cherished companion to help plot a course to your next destination. 

This article on finding your perfect paddling partner was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Dream Big: Travel the World with National Geographic

Photo: Peter McBride
Dream Big: Travel the World with National Geographic

Writer and adventurer Jon Bowermaster is following a long line of household names. We’re not talking about Mr. Clean and Aunt Jemima. More like Robert E. Peary, Jane Goodall and Jacques Cousteau. It’s an impressive legacy of National Geographic–sponsored adventurers. Bowermaster is nearing the final leg of the oceans 8 expedition, which seeks to explore the social and environmental state of each of the world’s largest water bodies from the seat of a kayak.

Bowermaster has seen it all: the rugged Aleutian Islands, the wild coastlines of west Africa’s Gabon and the island paradise of French Polynesia. All, that is, except for the last remaining chunk of his global voyage: Antarctica. If he’s not on the ocean or talking with local people who live from it, he’s travelling the world, re-telling the story of his expeditions to riveted audiences.

Bowermaster’s eureka moment came at 15 when he discovered, while others were sucking back their first cigarettes, that he had a talent—and a penchant—for writing. Since then, he’s gone on to a 20-year freelance career. He’s written for almost every major glossy monthly from Outside to Men’s Journal and edited the pages of Rolling Stone.

Not all the gigs have been replete with coconuts and sarongs. He’s written on such arcane topics as “The History of the Jacuzzi” and profiled ‘80s pop singer George Michael and a long-past-their-prime Osmond Family. “A lot of it was like filling in blanks,” he says—not exactly the adventurous writing career he was aiming for.

But now Bowermaster has found his niche, pursuing his epic life-work with help from the national geographic expeditions Council.

“My first grant was actually quite a surprise,” he recalls. “I was convinced I would not get it [and] that the first trip to the Aleutians would never have happened. I got notice quite late in the process and then realized, ‘oh shit, now I have to actually pull this off’.”

Pull it off he did, and now he wouldn’t trade his job, as they say, for all the oceans in the world.

IN OTHER WORDS:

Aim for meaning over mileage
“I use kayaks as floating ambassadors. My trips have an adventure quotient, but they’re not only about adventure. Circumnavigation is not really interesting to me.”

Learn to barter with sleeping bags
“I have corporate sponsors that put up some of the money. And I don’t have to buy gear for the rest of my life. But you can’t trade sleeping bags for a mortgage. I would like to have a direct paycheque, a retirement fund and health care…but I wouldn’t trade it for anything. Every time I think about another job, that thought lasts about 60 seconds. Plus I realized long ago that I can’t do anything else.”

Suffer the writing
“We’re out here having a great time. The hard part is the physical sitting down and writing the story. It’s very painful. Anyone that tells you they like writing is lying.”

Be good
“Advice I would give to somebody who wants to get into this type of work: be persistent. Don’t give up. I knocked on the door of national geographic for a long time before I got in. It’s also important just to be a good person.” 

This article on travelling with National Geographic was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Dream Big: Live off the Grid

Photo: Keller Collection
Dream Big: Live off the Grid

It was 1979 when a young couple pulled ashore on then-remote Read Island. These latecomers to the back-to-the-land movement arrived in B.C.’s Discovery Islands like a couple of latter day pilgrims. They’d sold a photography business for a down payment on a 50-acre parcel of waterfront land to hatch their dream of building a wilderness adventure lodge. They came in a leaky aluminum skiff packed with their worldly possessions: tent, chainsaw, lopping shears, a table, rocking chair, spinning wheel and a transistor radio.

The learning curve on coastal homesteading is steep. The first step was to clear building sites for a family home and lodge, gardens and outbuildings. Next was to mill their own lumber from salvaged cedar logs and erect a post- and-beam house. The plan to produce their own hydro power from a nearby stream short-circuited at first when their newly installed turbine was stolen. To support themselves while their dream took shape, the Kellers worked odd jobs like treeplanting and construction.

Although it was originally the alpine environment of the coast Range that Ralph and Lannie envisaged taking their guests to, the fledgling interest in sea kayaking caught their imagination and in 1987, eight years after arriving on Read Island, they welcomed their first guests to Coast Mountain Lodge.

With two children Emily and Albert now completing the Keller family, they continued with the tasks—Ralph working as self-described “systems manager and kayak guide” and Lannie as “mom, gardener, cook and logistics.”

Inquiries began to trickle into their post office box in Surge Narrows and over the past two decades visitors have come from around the world to share the Kellers’ life in the wilderness.

In 2001, the business expanded to include a second lodge, Discovery Islands Lodge on Quadra Island, operated as a kayaker’s B&B and hostel. Both operations squarely put the “eco” in ecotourism with local food, composting toilets and homegrown power from solar, wind and small hydro. It sounds like a dream come true.

IN OTHER WORDS:

Sink the nest egg
“We wanted to have some adventure in our lives. We had taken the plunge and put all we had into buying a piece of land in paradise. We needed a way to make a living where we lived. Kayaking was one of those late-night brainstorms that seemed like it might work.”

Don’t specialize
“We had to provide everything for ourselves, from water to electricity to communication. Every system you take for granted in town we had to figure how to build and then keep it functioning—even our first four fibreglass kayaks, from a borrowed mould.”

Commitment is its own reward
“Make sure you like what you do and be prepared to do a lot of it for free before you get paid for it…. If you refuse to fail, sooner or later you are bound to succeed.”

This article on living off the grid was published in the Spring 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.