The operative word for Sitka is REMOTE. Just a couple hours of paddling from town will find you in true wilderness. Keep paddling in any direction and it will be weeks before you encounter another town.
I made my first visit to Sitka by kayak, paddling for two weeks through some of the most beautiful, ancient country imaginable. I shared the water with innumerable humpback whales, sea lions, sea birds, otters and occasional orca. I shared my campsites with one of the world’s densest populations of brown bear under the canopy of one of the last remaining old-growth temperate rainforests. The best part about paddling in Southeast Alaska—a region roughly the size of Maine—is that it is nearly all uninhabited public land, mostly within the country’s largest national forest: the Tongass.
Once I reached Sitka, I fell deeply in love with this tiny fishing town that perches on the western shore of 100-mile-long Baranof Island, overlooking the Gulf of Alaska and the cratered summit of Mount Edgecumbe. After years working to explore and protect this place, I still feel like I’ve only scratched the surface.
Adam Andis is a photographer, conservationist and kayak instructor in Sitka, where he works to protect his adopted home as communications director and wilderness stewardship coordinator for the Sitka Conservation Society (www.sitkawild.org).
TRIPS
If you have a day explore Sitka Sound right from downtown. Float over kelp forests, watch bald eagles, sea otters and sea lions, and search for whale spouts as you weave through the network of islands.
If you have a weekend tour 17 miles south to Goddard Hot Springs, soak in the relaxing waters and explore Baranof Island’s wild outer coast.
If you have a week paddle to Kruzof Island and reserve one of the many public Forest Service cabins. Hike to the top of the dormant Mt. Edgecumbe volcano for breathtaking views, walk the black sand beaches, or paddle out to St. Lazaria Wildlife Refuge to see nesting seabirds.
If you have two weeks kayak the outer coast of West Chichagof Island Wilderness. Follow the route of historic rumrunners through a maze of untouched islands and hidden bays full of spawning salmon and brown bears.
STATS
Population 8,909
Average Summer High 62°F (July)
Annual Precipitation 132 inches, falling on 252 days
Wildlife Whales, sea lions, sea otter, seal, brown bear, wolves, marten, bald eagle, Pacific salmon.
Terra Cozy USFS cabins, undeveloped wilderness camping on beaches and in old-growth forest.
Tides Tidal exchange reaches 20 feet with currents up to eight knots in channels.
Diversion See traditional Native paddle craft at Sheldon Jackson Museum.
Local Wisdom File a float plan with Sitka Mountain Rescue (907-747-3233) before you head out.
Outfitters Latitude Adventures—day trips, expeditions, rentals, instruction; www.latitude-adventures.com. The Kayak Shed—half-day and day trips, rentals, sales; www.thekayakshed.com.
Must-have Bomber rain gear, rubber boots and bear spray.
This article first appeared in the Spring 2015 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine and get 25 years of digital magazine archives including our legacy titles: Rapid, Adventure Kayak and Canoeroots.
