Marquette is the white collar on the well-worn work shirt that is Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. It’s a center of culture in a rough and tumble region known for logging, mining and huge swaths of lightly populated hinterlands along the south shore of Lake Superior.
I love living near Marquette because of the laid back live-and-let-live phi- losophy and the diversity of shoreline geology, great public access and largely undeveloped coast. Within city limits you’ll find a 10-mile stretch of rock gardens, surf spots, sandstone caves and sandy beaches. North of town, the shoreline is mostly state owned and offers pocket beaches and bedrock headlands more reminiscent of the Canadian side of Lake Superior. The big lake lends its mood to the town and our lives tend to revolve around what Superior is serving up daily.
Michigan’s Upper Peninsula Trips:
If you have a half day explore 323-acre Presque Isle city park, where red and white swirling sandstone cliffs clash with an ancient lava flow known as Black Rocks.
If you have a day extend the trip out from Presque Isle to the bedrock headland of Middle Island Point, then hop to Middle and Partridge islands and enjoy some rough water rock gardening when the north wind blows.
If you have a weekend tour 30 miles around Grand Island National Recreation Area. Launch from Sand Point to make the easy half-mile crossing to the island. The southern end has protected bays and agate beaches ideal for camping and rock hounding, while 200-foot sandstone cliffs grace the north end.
If you have a week paddle under the mineral stained sandstone cliffs that give Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore its name. Depart from Sand Point and head to Grand Marais, a 42-mile trip past arches, sea caves, majestic Spray Falls and the Grand Sable Dunes. Mosquito and Chapel beaches offer sugar sand beach camping and great day hiking.
Michigan’s Upper Peninsula Stats:
POPULATION
21,000
AVERAGE SUMMER HIGH
67°F
WILDLIFE
Wolf, moose, deer, black bear, mountain lion, otter, sandhill crane, bald eagle, osprey.
TERRA
Sand and cobble beach camping.
EXPOSURE
North and northwest winds are predominant and produce the largest conditions with fetch exceeding 160 miles.
DIVERSION
Marquette is an IMBA-designated ride center. Four local mountain bike shops offer beta and rentals.
SUDS
Bookend your trip with a cold brew at the Lake Superior Brewing Company in Grand Marais.
LOCAL WISDOM
August through early September is the sweet spot for fine weather, warmest water and relief from bugs.
OUTFITTERS
Paddling Michigan – rentals, instruction and guided trips in the central Upper Peninsula – paddlingmichigan.com.
MUST-HAVE
Wetsuit/drysuit, camera.
Aaron Peterson is a professional photographer based in Marquette, where he enjoys having the greatest lake on his doorstep and ready access to the diverse state and national forests, parks, lakeshores and wildlife refuges that comprise much of the state’s Upper Peninsula—“the U.P.” to locals.
This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2015 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.
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