Based near Seattle, Gary Luhm cut his teeth paddling Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. A professional photographer specializing in sea kayaking, his nature and paddling images have graced the covers of over 40 magazines, books and catalogs.
Shaped by the breath and caress of the mighty Pacific, the Olympic Peninsula is famous for its misty forests and rugged coast. Yet my first kayak trip in Olympic National Park was an idyllic July 4th weekend on the tannin- black waters of Ozette Lake. We hiked through lush rainforest with moss, lichen and fern draping every inch of exposed wood and bark, including the planks that formed the trail.
Later, I took up kayak surfing, making weekend trips to Crescent Bay for moderate surf in winter, and Makah Bay or Westport in spring and fall. Summers I devoted to open ocean paddling, viewing puffins near Toleak, and encountering resident grey whales en route to Shi-Shi Beach. At Destruction Island, some 500 sea otters summer in vast rafts.
My favorite trip is approaching Cape Flattery from either Makah or Neah bays in a long day, skirting countless rock pillars and creeping inside sea caves and archways. We get lost in time on every visit, thrilled with each dip of the paddle, exploring like only sea kayakers can.
TRIPS
If you have a half day launch at Lake Crescent’s La Poel picnic area and paddle the pristine shore of this crystal clear, mountain-shrouded lake.
If you have a day start at Freshwater Bay west of Port Angeles and paddle four kelp-strewn miles along the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Crescent Bay and return. See harbor seals, cliff-nesting seabirds, expansive views and rich intertidal life.
If you have a weekend paddle across Ozette Lake and camp on Tivoli Island or at Ericson Bay. Experience rainforest wilderness on a hike to the coast, and view the petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks.
If you have a week advanced paddlers can venture north (car shuttle return) along the coast from La Push all the way to Neah Bay. Enjoy rafts of sea otters, colonies of puffins and sea lions, sea stacks, archways, occasional surf landings, beach camping, bonfires and a rolling Pacific Ocean that challenges the senses.
STATS
POPULATION
Port Angeles is the largest town, with 19,000.
WILDLIFE
Sea otter, seal, grey whale, black bear, deer, raccoon, puffin, bald eagle.
TERRA
Rainforest sites and sand beach camping.
EXPOSURE
Ocean swell, wind, cold water and fog on the coast; short fetch on lakes.
VIEWS
Sea stacks, beaches, lakes, mountains, temperate rainforest.
DIVERSION
Logging town, Forks, is best known as the setting for the Twilight novels and films.
BEST EATS
Wild Pacific salmon, bought or caught, and cooked on your grill.
OUTFITTERS
Adventures Through Kayaking—day trips, instruction, rentals; atkayaking.com. Olympic Raft and Kayak— day trips, instruction; raftandkayak.com.
MUST-HAVE
Wetsuit or drysuit, helmet for coast.
Based near Seattle, Gary Luhm cut his teeth paddling Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. A professional photographer specializing in sea kayaking, his nature and paddling images have graced the covers of over 40 magazines, books and catalogs.
This article first appeared in the Fall 2015 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.
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