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Growing the Sport of Whitewater With Friends

Inflatable Friends | Photo: Robert Faubert

The guy beside me in this photo is Patrick Hagg, a web analyst at the federal Institute of Health Research. He has a degree from a good school. He is married and has three beautiful children. His family runs, skis, snowshoes, spins and is training for alpine trekking. They are going to climb Bishorn, a 4,153-meter mountain in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland where he will celebrate his 40th birthday.

Demographically speaking, the Haggs should be a whitewater family. Except Patrick’s never paddled whitewater before.

Patrick followed my friend, photographer and longtime raft guide, Rob Faubert out of the city. Rob and Patrick work in the same department, two desks away from each other. I’d roped Rob into coming to the Hell or High Water festival to shoot some photos and help me test the new Aire Sabertooth.

Patrick spent his youth dreaming of being a National Geographic photographer and came along to shoot the action to add to his portfolio. At the last minute he threw in his diving wetsuit and a downhill ski helmet.

Where the Petawawa River snakes through the town of the same name, there’s a perfect venue for a large-scale whitewater event. The municipal walking and biking path winds past a perfect amphitheater rock right beside Lovers—the most exciting and biggest rapid of the section.

Crowds gather to cheer racers, secretly hoping for carnage in the Windigo Hole or the three raft-munching waves below.

After Rob and I had ran the Sabertooth inflatable cataraft down a few times we told Patrick to get his gear out of his car.

Inflatable Friends | Photo: Robert Faubert

GROWING THE SPORT OF WHITEWATER

We paddlers talk a lot about growing the sport and getting new people into whitewater. Truth is, it’s not easy.

You either take them to quiet class I and II and spend your precious weekend teaching strokes and maneuvers in a friendly, safe and boring environment, or you run them down bigger sections of rivers you’d rather paddle. They swim lots. Anxiety and exhaustion overrides excitement and exhilaration. Real learning is low. Very few return.

Patrick, however, is hooked.

“I think first hand exposure is what did it. Being able to go down these huge rapids in a small two-person raft as a newbie gave me an incredible feeling. I played a role in successfully riding the rapids.”

We ran him through big rapids, but didn’t send him by himself. He learned about reading water, because I was right there to teach him. It was exciting for him, yet not too scary.

Whitewater tandem canoes in capable hands can work the same way.

Inflatable ducky kayaks are very stable and confidence inspiring. No cockpit means no skirt and no fear of being stuck inside. Self-rescues are easy.

We just received for review a shipment of Fluid Kayaks’ Do It Now sit-on-tops, which offer this same freedom but paddle like hard shell whitewater kay- aks. Industry rumors suggest we’ll see more of this type of boat on the market in 2015. I don’t care if we’re creating a whole new category of whitewater boats or if they’ll be stepping stones.

If not for the Sabertooth, Patrick and his family wouldn’t be joining us at the Upper Gatineau Whitewater Festival. If not for a boat that made him feel safe enough and excited enough, he would still only be dreaming of riding the rapids.

Scott MacGregor is the founder and publisher of Rapid magazine. Soon he will let Patrick know that we don’t call it riding the rapids. Baby steps. 


This article on introducing friends to whitewater was published in the Summer/Fall 2014 issue of Rapid magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer/Fall 2014 issue of Rapid Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.

The Paddler’s 50

Photo: Jasmijn Decuyper
The Paddler's 50

1. Petrichor (noun):

The smell of earth after rain. No one knows it better than wilderness canoeists.

2. Twelve months, a dozen countries and a nearly lost art learned in each. It was a dream come true for Cincinnati-native Will Meadows. Last year, 23-year-old Meadows finished a yearlong quest to visit indigenous master canoe builders around the world and learn their traditional techniques. 

“Canoes are found across the world. They lie at the intersection of human creativity and place,” he says. “They are vessels for exploration, artistic expression and sustenance.”

Meadows spent this past winter at the end of the world in Tierra del Fuego. The Yaghan culture has lived there for 6,000 years, using beech bark to craft canoes used to hunt seals. For two months Meadows lived with Martin Gonzalez, an elder of the Yaghan and the only man alive with knowledge of how to construct these canoes. 

“I had read that the culture of the Yaghan had gone completely extinct,” says Meadows. “Many Argentinians and Chileans talk as if this people no longer exists. My original intent was to resurrect this canoe, but when I got to Chile, I met living descendants of the culture who took me in as family and showed me their passion to regain lost knowledge and rebuild traditions. The Yaghan taught me how resilient traditions are, beyond catastrophes both environmental and social. They showed me as long as there is a person with a bent to learn, there is hope to pass on cultural heritage and sense of place.”  Follow Meadow’s journey at humanitysvessel.com.

3. This fall, Esquif Canoes hopes to revolutionize hull materials when the company replaces Royalex in its canoe line with brand new, in-house-made T-Formex. According to owner Jacques Chassé, paddlers can expect the same indestructability and performance of Royalex, with the added benefit that T-Formex is 10 percent lighter and 20 times more abrasion resistant. The material innovation comes just in time—Royalex ceased production earlier this year. 

4. Onesies. Whether we’re talking about drysuits or cozy giraffe-inspired sleepwear, we just can’t get enough. 

5. Using only non-synthetic, turn-of-the-century equipment, Peter Marshall and Andrew Morris retraced a 600-kilometer historic route through the province of Labrador in July. Their camp kit featured throwbacks like a 30-pound waxed canvas 

tent, tin cloth rain gear and a cedar-canvas canoe. “On all long trips, I’ve been equipped with big, Royalex canoes, Gore-Tex, the most lightweight material and top-of-the-line tents. When I read about old times, I can’t help but feel as if I’m cheating,” said Marshall prior to the trip. 

Much of the equipment used for Labrador Passage was handmade by local craftspeople. “We realized that we couldn’t go to REI and buy this stuff, so we reached out to people who still make it.”

6. Adam Shoalts rewrote a tiny portion of the map of Canada when he accidently paddled over a waterfall. Last summer he returned to the remote region in Quebec to properly document the seven previously unknown waterfalls he’d discovered.

7. Zipperless gear is showing up in sleeping bags, tents and backpacks. Because the interlocking teeth are often the first point of failure in outdoor gear, companies are touting these new products as durable and hassle-free. Clever manufacturers, such as Sierra Designs, Kelty and Big Agnes, are using roll-top closures, hooks and simple design to create revolutionary new gear that also weighs less.

8. Two-way satellite communicators are game changers for search and rescue operators. Instead of sending out a standard distress signal and GPS info, communicators, such as DeLorme’s new inReach Explorer, allow rescue professionals to text with backcountry paddlers that are injured or lost. They can assess the situation and offer medical advice and assistance if needed. In some cases, SAR has been able to use GPS info and texting to direct lost hikers back to the trail, avoiding costly and potentially dangerous rescue missions. 

9. Atikokan paddler, Mike Ranta, hopes to set a world record for the longest solo paddle ever, breaking the 2010 record set by Helen Skelton of the U.K. He set out on his 8,000-kilometer, cross-Canada expedition April 1 and expects to arrive in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, by mid-September. Strictly speaking, he’s not flying solo—Ranta’s canine wingman, Spitzy, is along for the ride.

10. Living on a quiet British Columbia highway, 25 kilometers south of Golden, Columbia Wetlands Adventures owner Mark Teasedale wanted to do something unique to help advertise his business and draw attention to the wetlands he loves. He does not recall exactly when the idea of building the world’s largest paddle took root, but once Teasedale gets an idea, it usually takes off in a big way.

“I started wondering how big the world’s biggest canoe paddle was,” he explains, “so I started doing some research. I found nothing, so I decided to set the bar pretty high and try to build it as big as possible.”

With a 60-foot cedar pole shaft and blade composed of over 800 laminated veneers, the nearly six-ton paddle prompted the Guinness Book of World Records to create a whole new category. Teasedale is waiting for final confirmation on the record, expected soon after Guinness staffers scour the globe for competition. Dave Quinn

11. After traversing 3,362 kilometers over 158 days in the Amazon rainforest, Aaron Chervenak and Gareth Jones of the multi-year Brazil 9000 expedition said goodbye to their trusty folding canoe. They’re continuing their world-first, human-powered, north-to-south foot and bike journey through Brazil for another 5,500 kilometers (brazil9000.com).

12. Crowdsourcing is changing the way expeditions and innovations get funded, allowing today’s explorers to take their passion directly to the people. Kickstarter and IndieGoGo campaigns have contributed to recent paddling expeditions such as Nobody’s River (an all-women, source-to-sea journey on Russia’s Amur River—$32,295) and this year’s Labrador Passage (historic route retracing—$5,890). In January, startup Torch Paddles received the $35,000 needed to fund their dream of creating SUP and canoe paddles that self-illuminate—expect to see them lighting up shelves later this year (torchpaddles.com). 

13. Production is still in the works, but the Canoeroots team is already excited about Canoe: Icon Of The North. This beautifully filmed documentary explores the canoe’s significance in modern culture, with cameos from the who’s-who of the canoeing world, including Kevin Callan, Becky Mason and Ted Moores (canoemovie.com).

14. The 2014 Reel Paddling Film Festival is touring 25 films in more than 100 venues around the world.

15. This year’s Wooden Canoe Heritage Association’s annual assembly showcased wood canoes from more than 20 modern-day builders, instead of the usual 100-year-old classics. “Just as we all get excited today about the old B.N. Morris, J.H. Rushton or Dan Herald, some day, canoe enthusiasts will get equally excited about the canoes our builders are making now,” said association president Ken Kelly (wcha.org).

16. Why should you care about the Peel River Watershed? Not only is it one of North America’s last remaining intact ecosystems, it’s also a canoeist’s paradise, home of the Wind, Peel and Snake rivers. In February it was opened to mining, gas and oil exploration, putting its delicate environment at risk.

17. The textile and tannery industry is responsible for 20 percent of industrial freshwater waste, according to shocking new documentary RiverBlue. “It’s way more than we were expecting and it’s flown pretty much under the radar and been underreported,” says Mark Angelo. The avid paddler and conservationist has traveled to 1,000 rivers in 100 countries and is the founder of World Rivers Day (September 28), recognized in 70 countries around the world. “Paddlers understand how everything is interconnected,” Angelo adds; “I’m fearful of what lies ahead.”

18. Thanks to trailblazers like Team River Runner and Heroes on the Water, rehabilitation for wounded veterans is increasingly involving nature retreats and paddling. Last fall Navy vet, Lonnie Bedwell, made history by becoming the first completely blind solo kayaker to paddle the entire length of the Grand Canyon (teamriverrunner.org).

19. A skilled crew of navigators set out in May to sail 47,000 miles of open ocean in a pair of Polynesian voyaging canoes using ancient way-finding techniques, including observing stars, wind and birds. Sailing in the wake of their ancestors, they’ll visit 26 countries over the next three years on a mission to create a sustainable future (hokulea.com).

20. The Canadian Canoe Museum may be relocating to the Peterborough Lift Lock National Historic Site. The new site would provide water access, solidifying the museum, as well as the town of Peterborough, as a national shrine for canoes. 

21. The phrase home away from home gets new meaning with First Ascent’s Katabatic expedition tent, a tent that charges your devices. This yet-to-be-released dream-come-true for power-hungry outdoor nerds comes courtesy of an Eddie Bauer and Goal Zero team-up for a price upwards of $800. 

22. Expedition racing’s newest annual slogfest is also the toughest—the Muskoka River X is the longest single day expedition paddling race in the world. Canoes, kayaks and a few lonely SUPs traverse 125 kilometers in 24 hours for glory and gloating privileges. Navigating portages, rapids, waterfalls, chutes and gravel bars with only maps and compasses are necessary skills; all the better if you can do them in the dark, without sleep (muskokariverx.com).

23. To prepare for a two-and-a-half-year canoeing journey through North America, Pierre Pepin and Jennifer Gosselin sold their possessions and quit their jobs. They set out on June 6 with pooch, Jasmine, on what they’re calling the Nor-Am Odyssey. “We’re not interested in breaking any speed records,” says Pepin. “That’s been done before. We want to make a connection with people, to encourage them to get involved with the natural world and live simpler lifestyles.” (wildravenadventure.com).

24. Now you can watch Bill Mason’s classic films on demand. Stream Mason’s adventures and teachings in breathtaking scenery through the long winter and from the comfort of your couch. While you’re there, check out the spring folk anthem, “The Black Fly Song” (nfb.ca).

25. Two Brits, James Warner Smith and Nathan Wilkins, had the goal of becoming the first to cross the European continent by connecting waterways and without portaging. After five months spent paddling 5,000 kilometers, from France east to Istanbul, they were stopped by November gales on the Black Sea. Forced to abandon their canoe but determined to finish, they took to the remaining 370 kilometers on foot, schlepping dry bags with paddles in hand. Ten days later, and 146 days after starting out, the pair limped through Istanbul’s city walls: “The first thing we did was have a kebob—in fact, we had four,” says Warner Smith. 

26. Our favorite reason why: For the hell of it.

27. Always wanted to sleep in a giant slice of watermelon or show your love of the written word by peering out from between the pages of a gigantic paperback? FieldCandy’s innovative tent flys feature bold patterns and daring scenes, ensuring you’ll never confuse your tent with another camper’s again (fieldcandy.com). 

28. Or, say goodbye to tradition entirely and take your camping experience to new heights—TREEPEE offers tents suspended high above the ground (treepee.com). 

29. Jim Coffey made open boat history after hucking a 60-foot drop on the Alseseca River in Mexico, breaking a 20-year-old record. Four months later, Brad McMillan upped the ante by launching his canoe off 70-foot DeSoto Falls in Alabama.

30. Why be put into a box when you can go out in a handcrafted cedar-strip canoe? Phoenix Boatworks offers unique canoe caskets for your final voyage. The best part? With a few shelves, the casket doubles as a bookshelf in the meantime (phoenixboatworks.com).

31. Nick Offerman.

32. We’re not quite sure what Spirit Canoe is—art house flick or music video?—but we sure loved watching this wood canoe float through dreamy landscapes. We’re even less certain about the main character—a nostalgic paddler who chooses to clothe himself in cotton, forgo a PFD and weild a paper map while carrying on through a storm.

33. Better quality recording, ever-evolving mounting systems and quality waterproofing mean that you can record your paddling adventures like never before. The smallest action cam of all is Polaroid’s C3. Just a 35-millimeter cube, it’s super tiny size could mean capturing angles never before seen.

34. With the retelling of survival stories bravado often comes to overshadow misery. Not so for Marco Lavoie who set out on July 16 on a two-month canoe trip up the remote Nottaway River. Halfway through his trip, his site was ravaged by a bear and it became a survival mission to get out alive. When an injury later demobilized him, it was reported that he made the heartbreaking decision to kill and eat his German shepherd. Rescuers spotted his canoe and airlifted him out on October 30. He’d lost 90 pounds and doctors said he was in critical condition. 

34. It’s not just BioLite stoves and solar chargers that are revolutionizing power in the backcountry. Swedish product myFC PowerTrekk is a portable charger that generates electricity from water; perfect for canoeists. Add water and a myFC puck to create an electricity-generating hydrogen conversion process. Paddlers can then plug in and charge a phone, camera or other device. According to the manufacturer, a puck lasts three hours and charges a device at the same rate as a wall outlet. 

36. Skinny dipping. See number 26. 

37. Celebrating its eleventh year, the Wabakimi Project (wabakimi.org) isn’t the only grassroots project to explore, document and clear traditional portage trails in wilderness areas, but it’s certainly the largest. Local enthusiast groups, such as the Friends of Temagami have also taken to diy trail clearing to keep local canoe routes accessible.

38. The Canoeroots team started noticing the trend last year, now it seems like everyone—paddlers or not—are having canoe weddings. “Incorporating the canoe into the wedding is part of a larger trend to get weddings out of the city, off of the golf course and outside the banquet hall,” says Toronto-based wedding photographer Mike Last. “Working together in the bow and the stern and keeping pace with each other, while keeping the boat on the right path and upright, is a perfect metaphor for any marriage.”

39. If you’re of the plaid and Carhartt wearing sect, you may have recently been mistaken for a hipster. Don’t panic. Current fashion is fond of the several-days-in-the-bush look, as well as Mason jars, beards and—we’re not quite sure why—lumberjacks. Just enjoy your time in vogue while it lasts. 

40. Scientists are one step closer to fighting back against the world’s deadliest animal. Worldwide, mosquitoes kill 725,000 people each year. In 2014 an international team of scientists began a pilot project to reengineer mosquito genetics so only males can survive. Without females (the biters) mosquito-spread illnesses, including malaria, dengue fever, recently discovered in Florida and the West Nile Virus, now found across North America, will lose their most productive host. 

41. From corporate responsibility to corporate activism, Patagonia crosses the line in this summer’s doc DamNation and we love the result.

42. We’re excited about canoeing gear from RuffWear—new adventure beds, PFDs and doggie backpacks mean that outdoor adventure has never been more comfortable or safer for our four-legged friends (ruffwear.com). 

43. Tip of the hat to author and life-long environmentalist Farley Mowat, who passed away in May at the age of 92. His books, including Never Cry Wolf, People of the Deer and Owls in the Family, were a source of inspiration for many adventurers exploring northern rivers by canoe. 

44. With wifi coming to campgrounds in select parks across North America, there’s no place your boss can’t reach you. While we love the idea of connectivity making the outdoors more accessible to everyone, we worry about campers connecting with Facebook instead of nature. 

45. Handstands, gunwale bobbing and back flips off the bow—canoe tricks are great fun. But hands down, the best we’ve seen is the fontaine flop rescue maneuver.

46. Find a rocky outcrop on a lake and watch a celestial show when the Perseids meteor shower peaks in the wee hours of August 13. Then check out a double bill on the night of October 8 when a total lunar eclipse and the Draconids meteor shower coincide.

47. At 42 feet long and 59 inches wide, these two war canoes are the largest wood-canvas canoes in the world. Made by the Peterborough Canoe Company in 1926, they seat 30 and are still used in Taylor Statten Camp’s programs today.

48. The tripping barrel celebrates roughly 30 years of service after being popularized by a group of Ottawa canoeists who first experimented with olive barrels on northern rivers in the mid-80s. 

49. If you’ve ever done a fly-in canoe trip, chances are you were riding sky-high in a de Havilland Beaver. Though this airborne workhorse has been out of production for 37 years, hundreds are still in the air and the Beaver is widely regarded as one of the best bush planes ever.

50. First timers. “It’s like we’re on a real adventure.”

The paddler's 50 was originally published in the 2014 summer/fall issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer/Fall 2014 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Chasing Waves: Hunting For Surf In British Columbia

person paddles a sea kayak in British Columbia's Kyuquot Sound while towing a board for surfing
Feature photo: Ben Haggar

For some paddlers, kayaks are both a means and an end—a vessel to access the best surf and then play in it. But for me and three friends, it was a love of surfing boards, not boats, that drew us to a remote stretch of northwest Vancouver Island coastline in search of untapped breaks. Rather than zipping back and forth in a powerboat blitzing waves and disrupting the region’s natural vibe, we wanted a more adventurous, eco- and budget-friendly trip. Sea kayaks were the obvious choice. Our journey focused as much on self-reliance and careful scouting as it did on scoring new surf.

Chasing waves: Hunting for surf in British Columbia

vehicle with kayaks on top on bridge
Photo: Ben Haggar

Onwards to Kyuquot Sound

A loud crack breaks the concentration needed to navigate the harrowing tentacles of the Artlish River valley’s forestry roads. More than seven hours and nearly 500 kilometers out of Tofino, we pull to the roadside to take stock of my 20-year-old Tacoma. Loaded with four people, a canopy full to the brim with food and gear, and four kayaks and surfboards strapped to a homemade wooden rack, it’s difficult to tell from where the ominous sound originated. Fortunately, the aged truck’s protests are merely a bluff and we continue our laborious descent to the coast.

Logging trucks piled high with old growth cedars speed past, trailing choking clouds of dust. Where the once towering trees have been felled and hauled from the rolling slopes of these coastal mountains, alder thickets crowd the narrow trail of washboard gravel that leads to the innermost reaches of Kyuquot Sound.

Much of Vancouver Island’s outer coast is rugged and remote, and Kyuquot Sound—where our trip begins—is no exception. With virtually no land access to its outer extremities, a boat is a necessity.

Although we can cover less water than a powerboat, our kayaks provide the flexibility to search out new breaks on offshore reefs and islands as well as those tucked in along the unforgiving coast. Crossing the exposed mouth of the sound provides the first gentle rise and fall of a small groundswell, hinting at the waves we are hoping to find hiding beyond Rugged Point on the storm-battered outer coast.

surfing at sunset on remote Vancouver Island
Photo: Ben Haggar

Rewarded with good weather

Landing on a golden sandy beach on the protected eastern side of the point, we race excitedly down the narrow trail through thick waxy leaves of salal, dodging bear scat and scrambling up steep, muddy slopes. Bursting from the cloak of dense old growth forest into the brilliant afternoon sun bathing the outer coast, we gaze upon a natural surfing paradise. With the vast Pacific as a sparkling backdrop, small clean peaks peel off a sandbank in the middle of a crescent-shaped bay ringed by white sand and bleached driftwood.

The warm waters of Kyuquot Sound have wrapped around to the outer coast and amazingly, at nearly 50 degrees latitude, we can surf sans wetsuit, unheard of in our backyard surf playground of Tofino. Our first evening rewards us with a short, playful surf session as the unseasonably hot September sun sets and an amazing orange moon and bright Milky Way rise over our camp.

sun through trees leading to beach
Photo: Ben Haggar

The multi-day trip routine: surf, fish, explore

The beauty of a multi-day kayak trip is that it sharpens your sense of adaptation and self-reliance, leaving you more in command of your own experience. This journey was the first time any of us had kayaked on the open coast, but our surfing experience served us well.

Reading the waves, I learned to time a burst of paddle strokes to safely land my boat through surf. Once ashore, I could wade out into the water and assist my girlfriend, Caroline, as it was her very first kayaking adventure. Meanwhile, our German companions, Anja and Uwe, handled their long boats like seasoned veterans, gliding effortlessly onto the exposed beaches.

The days blurred as we settled into a routine of surfing, fishing and exploration. One of our daily activities involved identifying fresh animal tracks in the sand including bear, cougar and, one morning, translating a story involving a deer and a very large timber wolf.

With the kayaks, we scoped potential reef breaks and other beaches for waves. The swell filled in as forecasted and the extra size opened up a speedy river mouth right-hander. But we had yet to explore the outer reef shelves that had piqued my interest while pouring over marine charts and Google Earth months earlier.

person surfing at sunset on Vancouver Island's Kyuquot Sound
Photo: Ben Haggar

Loving the unknowns

The roulette wheel of searching for remote surf spots by kayak could be a fickle affair. Re-checking a break on a different tide wasn’t really an option with the large distances between spots, but when you hit it right, you could hit it big.

We paddled past plenty of reefs when the tumultuous variables of swell direction and tide failed to produce surfable waves. Then we saw them: the reeling green backs of waves jacking up on the horizon. On closer inspection, the slabby left-hander sucked most of the water from the reef, threw a thick green lip and carved an angry path through a dense mat of bull kelp.

I love the unknowns of surfing a new break and one this remote and wild had me nearly jumping out of my kayak. The only information we had was what we were staring at in that very moment.

Now I know a lot more: I am intimate with the impenetrable beds of mussels covering every inch of the treacherous rocks. I can picture the brightly colored eelgrass, sea stars and anemones that crowd the reef. And I know that if you miss your drop, you’re going to get a closer look at the creatures below and battle through foamy kelp on your way back to the surface.

waves on coast
Photo: Ben Haggar

One final treat

Inevitably, dense coastal fog rolled in, obscuring the peaks and the sun and seeming to add hours to the 25-kilometer paddle back into the sound. Mother and calf grey whales escorted us for much of the morning, and the silence was absolute apart from our rhythmic paddle strokes and the whales’ sharp exhalations echoing between the islands.

As night fell on our last campsite, one final treat came in the unexpected form of bioluminescent phytoplankton glowing bright blue in the shallows and on the seawater-saturated pebble beach. With childlike excitement, we skipped luminous blue stones and ran with electric footprints down the beach.

Cover of the Summer 2014 issue of Adventure Kayak magazineThis article was first published in the Summer 2014 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.


Feature photo: Ben Haggar

 

Sun and Sand at the Top of the South: Abel Tasman, NZ

All photos this page: Jaime Sharp
Sun and Sand at the Top of the South: Abel Tasman, NZ

The perfect antithesis to the wet and rugged coasts found further south, Abel Tasman’s golden sand beaches, sun-filled fruit orchards and warm, Caribbean-blue water make it a paddling paradise. Although it’s consequentially more commercialized, the region is also rich in history and Maori culture.

We link up with Kyle Mulinder, a charismatic guide for the Sea Kayak Company who takes great pride in his Maori heritage and carries on tour his grandmother’s conch, or putatara. The shell is a traditional Taonga puoro, Maori musical instruments used in the recounting of creation stores. Mulinder shares some of these stories, enacting each tale as he tells it, dancing and drawing in the sand in front of his international audience: a couple from Germany, two girls from France, two Americans and two Kiwis.

He relates his own speculations on history and what first contact must have been like for the Maori—indigenous Polynesians whom it is believed traveled over 2,500 miles to New Zealand by dug-out canoes, or waka, and settled some 400 years before the first Europeans—when Dutch explorer Abel Tasman sailed into nearby Golden Bay in 1642. Although Tasman is credited with “discovering” New Zealand, he and his crew actually never set foot on the island. When the Dutch sailors attempted to land in the bay, a major agricultural area for the Maori, they were met by a fleet of war canoes. Four of Tasman’s men were killed in a bloody skirmish and the explorer hastily sailed away, never to return.

After our tour with Mulinder, we paddle to the far end of Abel Tasman National Park and pick our way back over 30 miles along the shore for the next three days. It’s a leisurely trip compared to our initial adventure on Stewart Island. The skies are clear and the sun so powerful that unshielded skin burns in minutes. We seize the opportunity to paddle in the cool mornings and linger at offshore island fur seal nurseries, watching the curious pups play in the clear water. Water taxis buzz up and down the coast throughout the day, but in the quiet evenings we share well-equipped campsites and swap stories with other kayakers and hikers from around the world. 

kayaking in Abel Tasman New Zealand

TIPS FOR VISITING ABEL TASMAN

Water taxis make it possible to shuttle into Abel Tasman National Park from the villages of Marahau or Kaiteriteri, then paddle back. Allow one day from Anchorage Bay, or three days from Separation Point at the park’s north end. Another popular option combines paddling
out and hiking back on the Abel Tasman Coast Track. Arrange rentals or a guided tour with the Sea Kayak Company (www.seakayaknz.co.nz). 

Home of Paddling Legends: West Coast NZ

All photos this page: Jaime Sharp
Home of Paddling Legends: West Coast NZ

Sparsely populated and generally inhospitable, the West Coast challenges surf kayakers and advanced paddlers. Here, the Southern Alps, the 10,000–12,000-foot spine of the South Island,meet the pounding swell of the Tasman Sea and winds blow with unobstructed fury all the way from Australia.

It is a coast of contrasts, glaciers reach into lush rainforest and turquoise rivers tumble quickly to the sea.

THE WEST COAST: HOME OF LEGENDS

Fittingly, the region is also home to two of the country’s best known paddling legends: Paul Caffyn and Mick Hopkinson, the godfathers of New Zealand sea kayaking and whitewater paddling, respectively.

It’s hard to summarize Paul Caffyn’s many astonishing achievements, but most paddlers will recognize him as the first person to paddle around New Zealand, Australia, Great Britain, Japan and coastal Alaska, to name a few. He’s traveled over 23,000 miles by kayak. He is, in short, sea kayaking’s Sir Edmund Hillary.

He is also a casual, unassuming man who welcomes us into his modest home, appropriately perched 20 precarious feet above the sea. One rogue wave could easily flood his living room. When someone points this out, Caffyn casually sips his tea, staring out the sliding glass door into the choppy seas, and tells us that slowly the waves have indeed nibbled away at the cliff just beyond his back door. He seems to need the rhythm of the sea nearby, like a moth drawn to light. Books, opera posters, old photographs and paddling keepsakes crowd the walls of his home. I scan them, looking for clues as to the man behind the legend.

When we ask about his adventures, Caffyn smiles and corrects us, “I subscribe to the belief that adventure is what happens when things go wrong.”

His goal has always been to mitigate adventure and one of his favorite aspects of such massive undertakings as circumnavigating a continent is the planning and challenge of the logistics. I begin to see a calculated, reflective man who is comfortable by himself and at home on the sea.

kayaking on the west coast of new zealand

FIGHT FOR – BUT ENJOY – THE LAND AND RIVERS

From Caffyn’s house we head north to Murchison, home of the New Zealand Kayak School, founded and owned by whitewater legend Mick Hopkinson. Mick’s first descents include Africa’s Blue Nile, Everest’s Dudh Khosi and many other rivers in Pakistan, Switzerland, Austria and New Zealand. He’s been inducted into the International Whitewater Hall of Fame and his school has earned international acclaim.

Piquant and just a little sardonic, Mick likes people who stay on their toes, not surprising for a man who loves linking moves in rough water. Now 65, he tells us he is considering taking up sea kayaking in his eighties. Teasing aside, Mick is a gracious host who cares deeply about the waters he paddles. Mick started his career as a slalom paddler in Britain, where it was illegal to kayak local rivers. Fishermen and farmers threw rocks at paddlers for trespassing, and slalom races provided his only opportunity to access the water.

Mick later fell in love with the free-flowing rivers of New Zealand and stayed. As he talks passionately about the future of his adopted country’s rivers and the “idiots” who want to dam them, I get the sense that he and Edward Abbey would have enjoyed sharing a beer. When I bring up the notoriously intractable author and polemic conservationist’s name, Mick smiles broadly and picks up a page tacked above his desk.

“One final paragraph of advice: do not burn yourselves out. Be as I am—a reluctant enthusiast… a part-time crusader, a half-hearted fanatic. Save the other half of yourselves and your lives for pleasure and adventure. It is not enough to fight for the land; it is even more important to enjoy it. While you can. While it’s still here…” he reads the quote in its entirety and smiles again. “I’m really just a hedonist, turned conservationist so others can be hedonists.” 

TIPS FOR VISITING THE WEST COAST OF NEW ZEALAND

Take a class or rent whitewater equipment at Mick’s New Zealand Kayak School (www.nzkayakschool.com). Even if you’ve never paddled a river before, the school’s world-class staff teaches all skill levels from October through April. They can also organize helicopter shuttles to many of the West Coast’s remote access rivers. 

This article on a trip to the West Coast of New Zealand was published in the Summer 2014 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer 2014 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Crown Jewel of Fiordland: Milford Sound, NZ

All photos this page: Jaime Sharp
Crown Jewel of Fiordland: Milford Sound, NZ

Dramatic glacier-carved cliffs that soar 4,000 feet straight up from the sea and thousands of breathtaking waterfalls that appear like magical faucets after the frequent rains have made this spectacular fiord one of the most popular tourist destinations on the South Island.

We pulled into Milford Sound on the evening of a gathering. I mistakenly called it a “party,” but was quickly corrected by one of our hosts: “Parties in Milford are when people dance naked on the tables.” Nevertheless, everyone in town was in attendance, including the local fishermen, skippers, guides and cruise boat staff.

Jaime had lined up an interview with the founder of New Zealand’s longest established owner-operated sea kayak company: the famous Rosco of Rosco’s Milford Kayaks, who also happened to be hosting the gathering.

MAYOR OF MILFORD

Rosco Gaudin first saw Milford Sound’s potential as a world-class paddling destination in 1988, when he paddled into the fiord on a trip with friends and found himself escorted by a pod of 30 bottlenose dolphins. The experience planted the seed or the area’s first commercial sea kayaking operation, which Rosco has kept small and is still happily helming over two decades later. “I feel extremely privileged to be living my life in an area I love,” he says, “It’s not just the paddling, it is the lifestyle, the people, the vibe and the buzz of showing everyone our playground in paradise.”

Rosco is also the self- proclaimed Mayor of Milford (no one contests the title) and something of a local celebrity. For the past 12 years, he has organized The Great Annual Nude Tunnel Run, which it turns out, is exactly as it sounds.

Every April 1st, around 100 participants run naked—save for headlamps and tennis shoes—through the Homer Tunnel, a nearly mile-long passage that was hand-dug through the mountainside between 1935 and 1953 to provide road access to Milford. The prizes are meager—the fastest woman and man have their names engraved into a nude Barbie and Ken doll, respectively—but entry fees are donated to charity and, as Rosco points out, there are other rewards: “Being naked is invigorating, natural and beautiful; it’s a great way to make new friends.”

Seals sunning in Milford Sound NZ

A REASON FOR THE SANDFLIES

The next day we joined one of Rosco’s guides, Mark Buckland, on a tour of the fiord. We were shuttled by motorboat to just shy of the Tasman Sea, where we hopped in kayaks and paddled the 10 miles back through the steep-sided fiord to the village of Milford. Along the way, we admired 500-foot Sterling Falls and paddled with a pod of playful bottlenose dolphins that leapt into the air all around us.

Every paddler we met in Milford expressed gratitude for being able to spend time in such an amazing place. Of all the stories we heard, one in particular stuck with me: a Maori legend about the origin of Fiordland’s pesky, omnipresent sandflies. In Maori culture, the biting insects were born at Sandfly Point, near today’s kayak launch, to protect Milford Sound from the careless destruction that people often bring to beautiful places. 

TIPS FOR VISITING MILFORD SOUND

The knowledgeable staff at Rosco’s Milford Kayaks (www.roscosmilfordkayaks.com) offer daily trips for all levels of paddlers. Options include taking a water taxi to the mouth of Milford Sound and paddling back, sunset and sunrise tours, or combining kayaking with hiking part of the renowned Milford Track—hailed as “the finest walk in the world.” Whichever you choose, don’t forget your bug repellant. 

This article on tripping through New Zealand was published in the Summer 2014 issue of Adventure Kayak magazineThis article first appeared in the Summer 2014 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Dirty Jobs, Beautiful Boats: Kayak Manufacturing in the UK

All photos this page: Alex Bloyd-Peshkin
Dirty Jobs, Beautiful Boats: Kayak Manufacturing in the UK

Every time we settle into
our kayaks, we see the stickers announcing their provenance: Anglesey, Wales, for our Sea Kayaking UK Pilgrim; Nottingham, England, for our Valley Avocet LV. The place names conjure images of rugged coast and rough water, of grey skies and green meadows. So when the opportunity arises, we jump at the chance to actually visit the birthplaces of our boats.

It’s not exactly Sherwood Forest or the Shire. Valley
and Sea Kayaking UK both occupy factories in nondescript industrial areas. But don’t let the term factory mislead you. These aren’t cavernous buildings with deafening, automated machinery cranking out identical objects at a frantic pace. Rather, they are modest metal sheds where kayaks are handmade by skilled workers in a labor-intensive, multi-step process.

Nottingham lies landlocked in the middle of England. On the outskirts of the bustling city, where the nearby River Trent winds out of crowded suburbia into a lush quilt of tidy fields, tinny Black Sabbath plays over too-small speakers in the Valley factory. Boats-in-progress rest on sawhorses and the sharp smell of solvents fills the air. Cans of gel coat and resin line the shelves and tools, brushes and tape hang from the walls.

Many of Valley’s 20 full-time employees have worked here for more than two decades. A Mick Jagger look-alike leans intently over a brilliant orange kayak. Several other men in gel coat-stained coveralls or spotless white Tyvek suits move the kayaks through their stations: painting the molds with gel coat, layering in the fiberglass and resin, glassing in the coaming, bulkheads and skeg box. For composite kayaks, the time from mold to final inspection is about a week.

Inside a kayak workshop in UK

PRIDE IN KAYAK CRAFTMANSHIP

Three hundred kilometers to the west, surrounded by cliffs and currents, Holy Island lies like a severed pinky off the mitt of Anglesey Island. The Sea Kayaking UK factory sits just south of Holyhead’s Old Harbour and the town’s busy seaport. Inside, seat and coaming molds stand amid years of resin stalagmites, like a Technicolor petrified forest. Reels of fiberglass hang above workstations, where work orders list each kayak’s customization and destination: Japan, Finland, Israel.

At both factories, there’s tremendous pride in production, and a lot of cross-pollination of technique, shape, process and even people. Valley co-owners Jason Buxton and Peter Orton are both former members of the British freestyle team. Buxton went on to work for Pyranha and Orton for P&H. When the two companies merged, Buxton and Orton found themselves colleagues once more. They later purchased Valley, which produced its first boat, the Pintail, for Nigel Dennis’ paddling center. Dennis, in turn, founded Nigel Dennis Kayaks, now Sea Kayaking UK.

While the owners are serious long-time paddlers, the dedicated workers who built our kayaks—and perhaps yours as well—generally are not. Rather, they are craftsmen who appreciate the steady work creating respected products. It might 
be a dirty job, but the result is undeniably beautiful.

“It’s quite nice to create something,” says Buxton. “We’ve lost more workers to retirement than anything else—we’re passionate about what we do.”

Inside a kayak workshop in UK

Sharon and Alec Bloyd-Peshkin are the founders of Chicago-based Have Kayaks, Will Travel Paddlesport Coaching (www.havekayakswilltravel.com).


This article first appeared in the Summer 2014 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine.  Subscribe to Paddling Magazine and get 25 years of digital magazine archives including our legacy titles: Rapid, Adventure Kayak and Canoeroots.

Clearwater Kayak Festival 2014

Photos: Courtesy Clearwater Kayak Festival
Clearwater Kayak Festival 2014

The 2014 Clearwater Kayak Fest was a huge success this year. An annual event that was created by Ben Earle in 2007, the fest continues to grow in popularity with paddlers. As always the river delivered the goods with some big water levels for paddlers. The Clearwater River is famous for its high volume push and big features. The fest is also famous for its paddle party on Saturday night!

As usual there were paddlers from around the world at the event. Competitors came from Chile, Australia, Argentina, America, and Canada to compete, paddle and party!

The festival kicked off on Friday night when paddlers pre-registered, drank beer, ate chili, and got things started.

Saturday the Down River (DR) race was held on the 3-kilometer section of the Middle Canyon. There was a free shuttle and lunch for paddlers.

High levels and a dry land mass start kept things entertaining.

Issac “Hippy” Carter (Australia), was the winner of the men’s race. Ashley Taylor & Rose Beagley (Canada) tied for first in the women’s race. 

There were plenty of spectators who had great views of the race as competitors paddled through the final rapid, Shane’s Demise.

After the race everyone paddled different sections of the river till dusk. The party and camping was held outside of town beside the Thompson River. Over 300 people parked trailers, buses, trucks, teepees and tents to party for the night. The party lasted until dawn.

There was great prizes at the event including: SRT courses from Raven Rescue and Boreal River Rescue. Gift certificates from Level 6, True Outdoors and Western Canoe and Kayaking. Great swag from Undercurrents, Rescue Canada, Just Liquid, Liquid Lifestyles, BC Parks, Paddle Canada, and Interior Whitewater Expeditions (IWE). The t-shirts generously donated by NRS, were a huge hit. Endless Adventures offered a kayaking trip to Ecuador for auction. We are lucky to receive such great support for this event!

Sunday in the late afternoon kayakers rallied to shake off the hangover and join the freestyle competition on Pink Mountain. The levels were high and it was an old school big boat kind of contest! 

After the day kayaking paddlers headed over to the Wild Goose Hostel for the prizes to be awarded free BBQ and another raffle draw.

2014 Clearwater Kayak Fest rocked. Thanks again to all the volunteers and local businesses for helping to make it happen. Can’t wait for 2015! 

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Video: Tumwater Solitude

Photo: Screen capture Tumwater Solitude
Video: Tumwater Solitude
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“Tumwater Canyon is among some of the biggest roadside whitewater sections anywhere. Located just out of Leavenworth, Washington, the Wenatchee River carves a 6000 foot deep gorge though solid granite. Class V and Class V+ is just steps from the guardrail. We followed 23 year old Sam Grafton as he lapped this big water section all by himself. Despite the guardrail approach and a state full of world class boaters, Sam could not get paddling partners for this section. As of this date, Sam has ran Tumwater’s big water 37 times this year, mostly solo. Subscribe to our Youtube channel to keep up with our latest adventure videos. 

Music: Strike-Stryv https://soundcloud.com/stryvmusic

From Icicle TV.

Skills: Golden Rules for Great Canoe Strokes

man and woman in canoe demonstrate 3 golden rules of canoeing

Andrew Westwood looks at the 3 Golden Rules of Canoeing, which are a set of rules that define how to make all your canoeing strokes as effective and efficient as possible.