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Trips: Six Coolest Interpretive Centers

Photo: Brewster Inc.
Columbia Icefield

 

High definition theatres, interactive video exhibits, cutting edge designs and eco-friendly construction. Today’s park interpretive centre is more James Bond than John Muir, with a multi-million dollar budget and ultra-modern engineering and technology. Designed for all ages and interests, the only prerequisite for these learning adventures is curiosity.

 

L’Anse aux Meadows, Newfoundland

On a storm-ravaged promontory of rock and hardy grass in northernmost Newfoundland, a patchwork of mossy depressions and sod roofs comprises the earliest known European settlement in the New World.

At L’Anse aux Meadows, the archaeological remains and reconstructed dwellings of early 11th-century Norse explorers reveal a glimpse into the lifestyle of these pre-Columbian adventurers. Inside the interpretive centre, you can view Viking artifacts and read translations of the Norse sagas.

The highlight of a summer visit is taking a walk outside through a living Viking encampment. Kids can learn how to woodwork or create textiles with the crew of costumed interpreters, or just chat with the captain about life in the Viking age.

Bring bikes to ride around the quiet roads or explore one of the many hiking trails. Further immerse your family in Viking lore and lifestyle at Norstead, a nearby educational site with interactive programs. The fiords of Gros Morne National Park are also en route.

The national historic site is at the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula, accessed via Hwy 430 (The Viking Trail), 490 kilometres north of Corner Brook and the Trans Canada Highway. Open June to October, call ahead off season. www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/nl/meadows

 

Columbia Icefield, Alberta

The impressive Icefield Centre, perched on Sunwapta Pass directly across the Icefields Parkway from the massive Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park, is far more than a visitor centre. The top floor of this four-story structure is a lodge, while the lower levels are home to a cafeteria, gift shop and the Glacier Gallery—an extensive interpretive centre that tells the fascinating story of the glaciers, mountain ecology and area history. Panoramic windows overlook the Athabasca Glacier, the nearest of eight glaciers that form one of the largest non-polar ice fields in the world. The ice field also straddles one of only four triple continental divides in the world, with a watershed that feeds three oceans: the Arctic, Atlantic and Pacific.

Drive the entire 230-kilometre Icefields Parkway, one of the most famous and beautiful roadways in the world, through Banff and Jasper National Parks. Take a 90-minute tour onto the Athabasca Glacier in a special “snocoach” buggy and step out to walk on the glacier (visit www.columbiaicefield.com).

The Icefield Centre is located just north of the Jasper-Banff National Park border, 103 kilometres south of the town of Jasper along the Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93). Open May to October. www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/jasper/visit/visit14_E.asp.

 

Find four more great interpretive centers in the 2009 Early Summer issue of Canoeroots and Family Camping magazine, read it in our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

 

Fired Up For First Descents

Photo: David Hughes
First Descents

 

There’s an Italian word that perfectly describes the feeling of successfully reaching the bottom of your most challenging wa­terfall or rapid. It encompasses climbing the rocks above a drop you’ve studied, and then studied some more. It covers getting in your kayak as your adrenal glands spike. The pounding heart, quickened breathing and calculated thinking.

Can I stick this? Straight at the lip. Stay forward. Be balanced. Left rudder with subtle bow lift, dropping control stroke. Tuck and lock.

When it comes, the moment arrives and passes in a blink. Glar­ing up from the bottom of a 50-foot cascade, my fists are pumped into the air. This is what the Italians mean when they say fiero.

Fiero is pride. It’s feeling dignified and accomplished. It’s body chemicals flooding the brain with feel-good dopamine. Musicians get fiero. Athletes get fiero. And yes, kayakers get fiero. We love it.

The feeling of fiero guarantees you’ll be stoked all week—if not for the year. You may never feel fiero more than after a first descent.

Discovering and being the first to navigate any location on the planet is a remarkable feat that takes knowledge and skills to accomplish. Explorations through uncharted lands and waters throughout history have been financed for the desire to be there first—it was that, or the promise of gold. The credit of any first discovery was enough to elevate one to legendary status. Even U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt felt the first descent magne­tism when his team completed the River of Doubt, now known as Rio Roosevelt, through uncharted Brazilian rainforest, despite the dangers of the dark jungle. And what of Lewis and Clarke? John Wesley Powell. Scott Lindgren. Tyler Curtis. Ben Marr. Chris Korbulic. Tyler Bradt.

At the age of 42, my dreams of a first descent had all but faded to the occasional expedition fantasy and nostalgia for having the kayaking skills and physical ability owned years prior. From my Chilean kayakers’ hostel, it was easy to watch the young bucks charging, making their mark and sharing their latest and greatest missions. They were notching bigger drops, more laps per day and taking on harder access—the proverbial bar was rising.

It’s natural to crave excitement in our lives. For many kayak­ers, a first descent is on the bucket list. Just exploring the planet with Google Earth gets exciting when you think you’ve made a discovery. My friend, Tino Specht, did exactly that, invest­ing all of his free time, researching every detail and tiptoeing the line of gathering knowledge without publicly announcing a potential discovery.

So when Tino asked if I’d like to do a first descent in southern Patagonia, I pondered for four days. Can I keep up? Am I in good enough shape to lug my boat? Will I regret it if I don’t go? What are the costs? Do it, David, I told myself. Do it. Four days later, my text to Tino simply read, “I’m in.”

At the bottom of that 50-foot waterfall, I was filled with fiero. Then, an email came in the fall that I expected to confirm our first descent. Instead, its author said he was with a crew in 1998 that first descended the Upper Canyon of the Rio Blanco.

Damn, I thought, back to the drawing board. That fix of fiero had me craving another attempt.

 

David Hughes is the director of www.patagoniastudyabroad.com, a university semester abroad program for kayakers, and owner Chile’s Pucon Kayak Hostel.

This editorial originally appeared in the 2014 Paddling Buyer’s Guide. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it on your desktop here.  

 

River Faux

Photo: Courtesy The Walt Disney Company
Walt Disney Whitewater

 

Can you imagine what it would cost to build a river? This ques­tion was floated by environmentalist Mark Hume when I inter­viewed him for Rapid magazine over 10 years ago. A river con­servationist and writer, Hume used this question to argue that rivers are precious, valuable and perhaps completely impossible to replicate. I agree, but that hasn’t kept people from trying.

Man has been messing with rivers since the beginning of time—damming, channelizing and diverting. Whitewater pad­dling plays its part here, too.

Early slalom courses modified natural streams, then the Augs­burg Olympic course in 1972 was the first to be completely manu­factured from concrete. Many more slalom courses and playspots have been built or modified over the years, but all of this pales in comparison to Walt Disney World.

Walt Disney doesn’t do anything halfway. In the mid ‘90s, Disney approached Intamin, a major Swiss amusement ride man­ufacturer that had been making water rides since 1979, with a challenge: Make us a river. This was not to be another bumper-boat-type ride. Disney wanted to simulate an Asian rainforest whitewater river and provide the closest experience to whitewater rafting short of actually going rafting.

The resulting feature is impressive. Aboard a 12-person, round and guideless raft, you descend 30 feet in five minutes, bouncing through continuous class II and III, ending with one major drop. The ride also has Disney’s typically immaculate attention to detail in the surroundings.

As I’m waiting in the long line (which is also typically Disney) for my turn on the ride, I think of all of the manufactured rivers I’ve paddled.

Except for small, modified play features, any concrete river has felt pretty foreign—the water does not behave as it does in natural rivers. As we board the solid raft and secure our seatbelts—no PFDs in sight—we are assured by the grinning loading attendant that we are going to get wet.

We gain elevation up a long rollercoaster-style escalator ramp and, at the top, are dumped into the water. It looks like a real river. It sounds like a real river. If it wasn’t for the little boy across from me with mouse ears, it’d feel like a real river.

We pick up speed with the current and round a bend into man­ufactured mist, the roar of rapids ahead. It reminds me of October mornings on the Jacques Cartier River in Quebec.

The river twists and turns with complex rapids—holes and off­set waves—this would be really fun to paddle. Our boat occasion­ally bumps the side of the 25-foot wide channel, but mostly stays in the middle. We sweep around a bend to see an unmistakable horizon line. I’m genuinely surprised to feel the familiar butterflies of anticipation as we approach the lip. This could be any number of drops on the Upper Yough in West Virginia.

Wow, I think to myself, this is really good! Over the lip and down the steep slide with a woosh of soaking water at the bottom. A narrow canyon continues with more rapids until the current lets up. Just like that, the ride is over—I miss the calm float of appreciation before the take-out.

As we unload, my kids have big smiles. Somewhat unex­pectedly, they cheer, “When we get home, let’s go rafting!” And that sums it up.

Try as Disney might, it’s not the real thing. While there is the familiar pull of the current and the environment looks authentic, the rapids are completely and noticeably with­out something. It is subtle but immediate. It is enough for my kids, who spend their summers around rivers, to no­tice. The other modified rivers I’ve paddled, while certainly more real, also lacked what only natural rivers have—soul.

 

Alchemy is a regular column in Rapid magazine. When not on the Kali River Rapids ride at Disney, outdoor education pro­fessor Jeff Jackson spent some time touring It’s A Small World After All.

This editorial originally appeared in the 2014 Paddling Buyer’s Guide. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it on your desktop here. 

 

New Zealand Helicopter Rescue

Photo: Screen capture ONE News video
helicopter rescue

 

A helicopter rescue lifted kayaker Matt Coles out of New Zealand’s Windhover Gorge earlier this week after a nasty upside down waterfall drop.

TVNZ reported that the expedition was an attempted first descent of a section of the Waitaha River, just south of Hokitika on New Zealand’s west coast.

“Somewhere on the way I got my ankle caught on rocks and twisted my ankle. I was right at the entry of the rapid holding on to the throw bag,” said Coles of the injury that ended with an air evacuation.

It happened after both Coles and his fellow kayaker Shannon Mast were thrown off line and dropped the waterfall up side down and backwards.

 “There’s a reason that it hasn’t been paddled yet,” said Mast of the Windhover Gorge and its five waterfalls, in a ONE News video of the rescue.

For a full report and video of the trip-ending swim and helicopter rescue, click here. 

 

Video: Made in Canada Episode 5

Join NRS Films for episode five of the Made in Canada series, which visits some of Canada’s classic whitewater runs to capture both the rivers and the local paddlers who know them best. 

“For Canadian paddler Mikkel St-Jean Duncan, the Elk River in British Columbia holds a special significance. Not only is it one of his favorite rivers to kayak, but it’s also where he got to know, and later married, the love of his life. Join Mikkel and his bride, Lianne, for a story of life, love and paddling on some of Canada’s finest whitewater.”

From NRS Films. 

 

Gear: Skyledge 2 Tent

Photo: Courtesy Mountain Hardwear
Gear: Skyledge 2 Tent

This freestanding tent is impressively light. The Skyledge’s double doors and large vestibules ensure livability, while the interior boasts 27 square feet of space. At just over four pounds, it’s a bargain. The fly-first pitching option allows the tent to be set up in the rain and stay dry.  

$480 CDN | www.mountainhardware.ca 

Keen CNX Sandal Gear Review

Photo: Virginia Marshall
Keen CNX Sandal Gear Review

A look at the Keen Clearwater CNX sandal from Adventure Kayak magazine.

 

Keen

Clearwater CNX

 

 

 

For a fresh take on their classic sandal, Keen went in the same direction as backpackers, jockeys and supermodels: lighter is better. Rather than ditching spare undies or developing an eating disorder, the Clearwater CNX uses pared down materials to shed unwanted ounces for featherweight fit and protection.

 

 

 

$100| www.keenfootwear.com

 

 

Take a peak at more hot new gear in the Summer/Fall 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak—click here to read for free.

 

Video: Air Mattress Surf Session

Thanks to Rapid reader Kyle VanDeemter for sending this whitewater video. 

“Decided to give a leaking air mattress a second life and take it for a few surfs on Garb (Ottawa River). Shot with GoPro.”

From Vimeo user Kyle

Canoe Hunter

Courtesy: Will Meadows
Will Meadows gather supplies for canoe building

 

Twelve months, a dozen countries and a nearly lost art learned in each. It was a dream come true for Cincinnati-native Will Meadows, 23. In fall 2012, Meadows embarked on a yearlong quest to visit indigenous canoe building masters around the world and learn their techniques.

He called his project Humanity’s Vessel. “Canoes are found across the world. They lie at the intersection of human creativity and place,” he says. “They are vessels for exploration, artistic expression and sustenance.”

Meadows set out to immerse himself in canoe-building communities around the world, visiting countries as far-flung from each other as Tanzania, Vietnam, New Zealand, Peru and Norway. This wasn’t a textbook-based program—Meadows got his hands dirty, helping to harvest the materials and build the boats in many communities where canoes still represent an important aspect of daily life, rather than a recreational activity.

“I went into this wanting calloused hands,” he says. “I didn’t want to spend my time documenting, I wanted to build and to learn.”

He traveled to more than a dozen countries and studied with masters of the art in each. The first six months were spent in Africa, the Polynesians and South America.

Many of those communities were impossible to reach via telephone or email prior to his arrival. “Mostly, I just showed up. On the beach, on the river or in the jungle,” says Meadows. “Yes, it was crazy sometimes, but persistence paid off. I might be a white stranger and speak none of the local language, but we had a shared interest, a commonality—I wanted to learn from them.”

During the later half of his project he traveled to Canada, to Ontario’s Canadian Canoe Museum, which houses the largest collection of canoes from around the world. “That was different because the indigenous cultures are no longer active. At the CCM, the canoes became the masters.” From there, it was onto Norway, then Japan.

Meadows’ project is unprecedented. “There’s not anyone who has done a global study of indigenous vessels, no one had gone and built the boats and took part in that human heritage and tradition,” he says.

Traditions are a beautiful intersection of who we are and nature at it’s finest, he adds.  “The materials associated with the traditions is one of the most fascinating parts—it shows resourcefulness and creativity in each community,” he says.

The Thomas J. Watson Foundation grant, awarded for independent study and travel outside of the United States to graduating college seniors, ended in August, but that’s not the end of the journey for Meadows. He’s spent the fall in a role reversal—now he’s the master, teaching school children how to make reed canoes in Idaho.

His next adventure begins in December. Awarded with a National Geographic Young Explorers grant, he’ll head to Tierra del Fuego to build a traditional bark canoe. It will be a different experience for Meadows because the indigenous masters of this art have been dead for some 40 generations. “By building this canoe I hope to tell the story of the indigenous people who used to live in the area. But in a broader sense, that story is also what mastership means where there are no masters left.”

Follow the journey at www.humanitysvessel.com.

This article first appeared in the December 2013 issue of Paddling Magazine.

 

New Films Aim to Break Boundaries

Photo: Virginia Marshall
New Films Aim to Break Boundaries

Filming is underway for a series of webisodes that will showcase the love and lifestyle of kayaking. Fans of paddling film web series can look forward to an exciting blend of exotic locales, colorful characters, soulful celebration and offbeat kayak culture when the first installment of Yak About Adventures: Healthy Outdoor Obsessions (YAAHOO) hits the web later this year.

YAAHOO is the brainchild of New Zealand native Jaime Sharp, 32-year-old founder of World Wild Adventures travel company. An ardent sea kayaker, he also loves paddling whitewater and enjoys blurring the line between the two pursuits, a perspective he brings to his films. The first series, “A New Zealand Roadie,” finds Sharp and his film crew spending early 2014 traveling his home country, seeking out local paddling legends and sharing their stories.

NewZealand.jpg

 

“We’re striving to break the stereotypes—for example, sea kayakers are old grey-bearded men, and whitewater paddlers are young hooligans—by showcasing the varied lifestyles of those who choose to live by the paddle,” he says.

Given how close this project is to Sharp’s heart, it’s fitting that YAAHOO’s first stop is also a homecoming. “I’m seeking to reconnect with my country, my waters, my people and myself,” he admits.

Sharp has launched a crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter to assist with the estimated $16,000 in expenses it will take to complete the first series. Paddlers can visit the Yak About Adventures Kickstarter page to learn more or make a donation before the January 2, 2014 campaign deadline. Donations of as little as $10 are being sought, with rewards ranging from pre-release viewing of the episodes, a feature film package download and custom t-shirts; to paddles, folding Trak kayaks and even joining the crew in New Zealand for a week of paddling.

Watch for YAAHOO’s debut summer 2014.