In recent years,a wave of YouTube videos and articles has declared the goon stroke—or river-J—to be a poor or even so-called “wrong” stroke. Critics dismiss it with a sneer, claiming it robs the canoe of power and control, and insisting good paddlers rely solely on the J-stroke.
I see it differently.
In defense of the goon stroke
The goon stroke is a forward stroke paired with a thumbs up stern pry. Both the thumbs down J-stroke and the goon stroke are steering strokes, used to keep the boat traveling in a straight line. And both belong in every canoeist’s toolkit, whether you paddle calm lakes or dynamic rivers.
The goon stroke’s bad reputation stems largely from two misconceptions. First, many detractors only see poorly executed stern prys. When performed incorrectly, the stroke becomes a back sweep or backstroke, which is inefficient and counterproductive. But that’s user error, not a flaw in the stroke itself. Done correctly, there is minimal backward force.
Second is the myth that there is only one right stroke. In truth, the J-stroke and goon stroke each shine in different contexts. The stern pry delivers more power, stability and less wrist strain. It’s ideal for responsive whitewater canoes, controlling a heavily loaded tripping boat or battling headwinds. The J-stroke, on the other hand, excels at efficient straight-line travel.
In Path of the Paddle, Bill Mason famously wrote: “The thumbs-up J, or goon stroke, is really just a forward stroke with a rudder at the end. It works, but it’s clumsy and inefficient on flatwater. In rapids, the goon stroke is powerful and versatile. It can instantly become a rudder, pry, reverse sweep or low brace.”
Legendary instructor Bob Foote added his own take: “Unlike other strokes, the stern pry is either done right or dead wrong—that’s why it gets so much bad press.”
Watch how to execute the stern pry portion of the stroke below.
Doing it right: Quick, compact, powerful
When done correctly, the goon stroke is elegant and efficient. To properly execute the stern pry, here’s what you need to know.
Set up with the T-grip hand outside the gunwale, and the shaft hand on the gunwale. The power face of the blade should be flush with the hull.
The power potion of the stroke is quick and compact—a short, popping move, or as instructor Kent Ford calls it, a “microsecond burst.” Pull the T-grip into the canoe and use the gunwale as a fulcrum. The blade should travel no more than four to six inches from the hull. The result is the bow moves toward your onside.
Two common errors ruin the stroke
First, starting too far from the hull. If the blade begins at a 45-degree angle, the force drives backward rather than sideways.
Second, carrying it too long. After four to six inches, the stroke shifts from a pry to a backstroke, killing momentum. You can quickly diagnose a good versus bad stern pry by looking at the T-grip hand. If the paddler’s T-grip hand starts inside the gunwale, the stroke is almost certainly going poorly.
One of the stern pry’s greatest assets is its versatility. With a small adjustment, it can flow naturally into a low brace for stability or a back sweep for added turning power. Hold it steady and it becomes a rudder, a priceless tool when surfing a wave or maintaining your line in current. It also works beautifully for those moments when your bow partner is doing the hard work and you’re supervising (just don’t tell my wife I said that).
Is the stern pry my preferred stroke for long flatwater days? No, the J-stroke still wins for efficiency and rhythm. But for beginners learning control, and for maneuvering in current, wind or waves, the stern pry is indispensable.
Jeff Oxenford is an ACA Level 4 Whitewater Canoe Instructor Trainer Educator. He has almost 40 years of experience teaching canoeing at summer camps and through canoe clubs.
This article was published in Issue 75 of Paddling Magazine. Respect the goon. | Feature photo: Aaron Black-Schmidt
