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Wild Women Of Renfrew County Are Painting With Canoes

different coloured paint on canvas

At least once a year for the last 10 years, artists Kathy Haycock, Linda Sorensen and Joyce Burkholder have loaded up canoes or their backpacks and embarked on a painting adventure somewhere in the wilderness of Algonquin Provincial Park.

There they pitch tents, hook up a trailer or rent a cabin and venture out on their own for hours at a time. In this wilderness cherished by backcountry canoeists, they commune with nature and paint in solitude, reconvening each evening to share and critique each other’s work over a cold beer and some good food.

The excursions are an annual highlight for the Wild Women of Renfrew County, Ontario, a three-hour drive west of the nation’s capital, Ottawa.

The threesome meet often, taking day trips into the wilds closer to home. They snowshoe in winter and hike and paddle in summer, setting up their easels alongside the lakes and marshes, rivers and streams, in the forests, on the hilltops, and along the shorelines of the Canadian Shield.

They Paint The Distinct Landscape—Its Trees And Waters, Rocks And Vistas—In All Its Seasons, Hues And Moods

The subject matter, its ruggedness, the windswept white pines, silvery blue waters and rocky shores, draws inevitable comparisons to the Group of Seven, but their varying styles differ greatly from the likes of Franklin Carmichael or A.Y. Jackson. It’s brighter, warmer, less desolate, and more whimsical and welcoming.

Along the way, the three earthy women have carved their own niche and cemented their  reputations both as a group and as individual artists thanks, in part, to their well-received book, Wild Women: Painters of the Wilderness.

Published three years ago and now in its second printing, the volume was a labor of love. More than just a story of three female artists and their burgeoning success, Burkholder says the book is “largely about the wilderness—painting the wilderness, preserving the wilderness, celebrating the wilderness, and sharing with people there is still wilderness out there in all its glory and beauty.”

In her forward to the book, Carol Heppenstall, director of arts and culture at Adventure Canada, says the three have followed in the footsteps of Emily Carr and Doris McCarthy, immersing themselves in the natural world, “searching for its essence and the emotional pull of the wild.”

“En Plein Air [Outdoor Or On-Site] Painting Requires An Adventurous Spirit Present In All Three Women,” Heppenstall Writes

Unbeknownst to one another at the time, the three painters came from diverse backgrounds to become self-described hippies on 1970s-era communes around Renfrew County, living for years off the land without electricity or running water.

There were communes scattered all over the region then. The rural setting was ideal for the counter-culture growing out of youthful idealism and discontent with the materialism of urban life, a shift in North American values and the violence of the Vietnam era.

It was a time, says Burkholder, when “you could make almost anything by hand and sell it.”

To one degree or another, all at some point in their creative lives were fabric artists. Now in their mid-60s, each came to painting by a different route. They met years after their hippie lives had faded into the past, though not from memory.

Burkholder and Haycock began painting together 12 years ago

Sorensen, until then primarily a studio artist, joined them two years later. For these three women, strength came in numbers.

“Each of us brought something to the group. It might have been places we knew, connections we had. The sharing has been invaluable. We’ve all grown as artists as a result,” says Sorensen.

All live well off the beaten path, yet scores of collectors manage to find them at all times of year and during the twice-annual studio tours organized by 20 to 25 area artists and tourism associations.

“It’s not easy for artists to co-operate,” says Burkholder. “I think out there in the art world, it’s competitive. There are a lot of people painting—a lot of good painters. And it’s not easy to retail your work.”

But we have all hugely gained from being mutually supportive and sharing the promotion and the work of putting on exhibitions, hauling things around, and the cost. We all have had to put our egos aside and realized we’re greater if we work together,” she adds.

For all their time together and the similarities in the subject matter they paint, their evolving styles, colors and mediums have always differed. Even when they paint side-by-side, they are each in their “own little world in the wilderness,” says Haycock.

Kathy Haycock’s roots in art are deep

Her father was Maurice Haycock, an Ottawa-based geologist-turned-celebrated artist of the North. Yet Kathy didn’t turn to painting in a serious way until later in life, 10 years after her father died in 1988.

Her earliest memories are of him returning home from extended trips to the Arctic, crates of paintings in tow and a headful of spellbinding bedtime stories to tell. The walls of their home were lined with paintings from a variety of artists.

“He was always gone every summer when I was growing up and he’d bring home all these paintings of faraway places. It’s not pictures I saw, I saw paintings—his interpretation of these places. I was just entranced there was this incredible, friendly world out there that was so vast.”

Haycock Is The Only One Of The Wild Women Without Formal Training As An Artist

She painted with her father once, but didn’t take it up again until after his death when her sister arrived on her doorstep with some of his equipment.

Until then, she’d been a weaver, making tapestries and selling through a now-defunct Ottawa gallery. She’d moved to Renfrew County, taken up the hippie life and eventually began building log homes with her husband.

After her first painting, “I couldn’t think about anything else,” she says. “I felt so elated. This glow lasted a couple of days, and then it started to recede until I went and painted another one. And then I felt that way again. I think it must be like an addiction. It still is.”

A biker who’s owned everything from a Honda to a Harley, Haycock has painted all over the North, the West and the American Southwest, but the Algonquin region is the place she has felt most at home since she moved here decades ago.

For her, the challenge and the satisfaction lies largely in capturing the character and the feeling of the country. She’s found her own way in what she calls canoe painting, a form of landscape artistry she first experimented with on an Arctic cruise, then refined while exploring Alberta’s Kananaskis country.

She doesn’t paint canoes—the only one of the Wild Women who doesn’t.

She paints from canoes as she and her husband leisurely putter along a river or a lake, powered by a small trolling motor and a five-hour battery.

“The scene moves by slowly as I paint it,” she explains. “The angle changes, yes. But I’m painting the character of the country. In painting, it doesn’t have to be a picture-perfect rendition of a thing. You don’t get obsessed with the stupid little details.”

Linda Sorensen Was Born In London, England, And Came To Burlington, Ontario, At Age Two

She received her baptism in art from none other than famous wildlife painter Robert Bateman, who was her art teacher at Lord Elgin—now Robert Bateman—High School.

“He was fabulous,” she says. “He was just very passionate about what he was doing, teaching art. At the time, he was not famous, but he was an advocate for the environment, so he passed on his values about it. He’d been all over the world.”

The stories he told, the art he discussed, the passion he exuded—it was all his own. And it made him all the more inspiring, Sorensen says. She took four hours—half her curriculum—of Robert Bateman a day: painting, drawing, pottery and art history. She took textiles from Birgit Freybe, who would later become Bateman’s wife. Freybe even wrote an endorsement for the Wild Women book.

“Bateman was instrumental in my development,” said Sorensen. “He believed in me as a young, creative person. He kind of took me under his wing and nurtured my ability and my interest.” The two remain friends and correspond.

Except for “some dabblings in different mediums,” Sorensen would eventually drift away from the traditional arts, for 25 years devoting her creative energies instead to raising three children.

“It became my art,” she says. “We did the pioneer thing. We built a log cabin. We renovated an old horse stable. We grew gardens, fed the family, raised chickens and ducks. I was very much into the self-sufficient thing. I had a friend who used to say ‘art in everyday living.’ I adopted this as my philosophy. I was just totally enchanted by the lifestyle.”

She returned to painting the same year Haycock took it up, 1998

Ensconced in her home, now studio, deep in the woods south of Renfrew, she was determined to make a living at it.

Her work is diverse and popular. She branched into wilderness cards, now her bread and butter, and established a base of clientele all over the region, from the Canadian Canoe Museum in Peterborough, Ontario, to a gift store in Algonquin Park, along with galleries and shops scattered across the region.

She paints in water-mixable oils—smaller works en plein air; larger, more detailed stuff in-studio.

It’s taken 10 years to learn how to feel comfortable and be happy with the outdoor work,” she says. “Painting outside has a much more organic feel to it.

Comfort is reflected in the popularity of her work. Like the others, she has, for all intents and purposes, “made it” as an artist, though she’s reluctant to say so. “How do you define ‘make it?’ Is it money? Is it how you personally feel? I think I’m approaching that place, in that I’m making a better living. If money reflects success, I would say I’m starting to feel successful at what I’m doing.”

There was a time when Joyce Burkholder had a gallery in the nearby village of Wilno

Famous for its tavern, and showed her work at least 10 times a year at exhibitions across Southern Ontario and beyond.

She has long since moved her paintings into the forested backcountry south of Wilno (population: 300) where, like her two colleagues, she has her own home studio and gallery. She brings her pieces out only once a year to exhibit with the other Wild Women. The rest of the time, art enthusiasts flock to her door.

Educated at the Ontario College of Art, the Toronto-born Burkholder knew from an early age what she wanted to do and her dream never died. She moved to a commune in 1970, where she was “totally happy” for 20 years living on her own in a 16- by 16-foot cabin, selling art and living off the land. “The whole deal, I did it, big-time,” she says.

She was a weaver, then started painting on silk, moving on to watercolors, then acrylics

Now she paints in oils on canvas almost exclusively, though she teaches the gamut.

She attended workshops, admired other painters, and studied with many of them.

“But I think I’m mostly enthralled and ecstatic about just being in nature,” she says. “It’s so mind-blowing. There’s always something to see—some effect of the light, some phenomenon like mist. There’s always something, and it’s inspiring.”

After 35 years, the changes remain subtle; the excitement is anything but. “Whenever I arrive somewhere and set up to paint, I’m shaking. I’m just ecstatic. It’s a rush,” she says.

Burkholder was painting outdoors with various groups before she was introduced to Haycock. She loved the supportive, inspiring aspect of sharing the work and experiences of other artists.

She doesn’t remember how the two met “as painters,” but Haycock says they likely first set eyes on one another three decades ago when she and a friend rode their motorcycles over to Burkholder’s neighbouring commune in Maynooth, Ontario.

Burkholder remembers two tall girls arriving one day on bikes. They had no way of knowing at the time how their lives would ultimately intertwine.

They formalized their artistic relationship two years after getting together when they brought Sorensen into the fold, deciding on the name Wild Women: Painters of the Wilderness, along with a plan to exhibit together and support each other

“People remember the name, I’ll tell you. They’ve all got a joke about it, too. But that’s okay.”

Their collective and individual popularity alike soared after the book’s publication.

Burkholder’s work is constantly in evolution. “I feel like I have a whole bunch of styles and like every painting is possibly a different approach. So I’m always changing. I strive to change; I want to change.”

The Wild Women’s art has seen them through good times and bad. It has been their sanctuary and their outlet, their support and their sustenance—both spiritual and material. It is at the center of their souls, never far from their consciousness. And neither are they, from one another.

Time goes by and the emails will inevitably start. Scattered, at first. Then the pace picks up, and pretty soon an excursion is on the books. A day trip. It may be into Algonquin Park, by a lake someplace, or out to a cottage. They’ll meet there, bringing their hiking boots, snowshoes or a canoe.

The Wild Women are on the move

They’re more confident now, and less anxious to forego their hard-earned creature comforts as they venture into the unknown.

Still, they go. The anticipation is more than they can bear. Art is about to happen.

Stephen Thorne has been telling stories for more than three decades. In his work as an award-winning journalist, Stephen has lunched with Taliban warlords, dove in a mini-submarine to a previously undiscovered WWII shipwreck, and rode the train with Pierre Trudeau’s casket as the former prime minister traveled home for the last time. Stephen now enjoys exploring the lighter side of life from Ottawa, Ontario.

13 Foolishly Asked Questions To Canoe Outfitters

cartoon of man being lowered out of a helicopter in a canoe

Canoe Outfitters Have To Be Truly Patient, Knowledgeable, And Sometimes Even Psychic To Answer Their Clients’ Quirky Questions.

Here are some of the oddest inquiries fielded by businesses in Ontario’s Algonquin Provincial Park last year.

  1. While enroute in the interior of Algonquin, should we assume we will not be able to
    buy food at any snack bars along the way?

2. Would it be useful to have wheels for the canoe, or are the trails to rugged for a wheeled canoe?

3. Is there a way we could get lost or go into a whitewater river by mistake?

4. Is it OK if I email you for a blackfly update May 5 in the evening, for a May 6 response? I am allergic to blackflies and my coming depends on your thoughtful and kind prediction for their emergence.

5. How far is Algonquin from Ontario? Is there a train from Toronto to Ontario and then a bus to Algonquin?

6. I’m wondering if you can suggest a secluded lake that’s not hard to get to, has lots of fish, and no portaging is necessary. Does this exist?

7. I am heading on the Western Uplands Backpacking Trail and need to know how much is it to rent a light two-person canoe for seven days?

8. How far do we have to canoe from the base in order to reach scenic surroundings?

9. We’re interested in a place that “someone” told us about. Perhaps you could tell me a little more about it. The only thing I know is that it’s an island, and to get to it or near it, we will have to pass under either a bridge or a culvert.

10. Would you be able to transport me to and from the lakes I would be canoeing on?

11. We like nature and we want to keep it pretty. Is there anything we need to know about that?

12. I live in Ottawa and want to visit, but I have no idea how to get there or what to expect at this time of year. Would you please write back?

13. I purchased longjohns at your store on January 5. To my dismay, I found out while trying to urinate they do not have a fly. I was not told when I bought them there was no fly. The salesperson was a female so perhaps it’s understandable the omission of a fly would be of no consequence to her. I do not want these longjohns for which I paid $44.95 plus tax. Can I return them for a refund?

This story originally appeared in the 2004 issue of Canoeroots. Recirc is a new column sharing some of our favorite stories from the first 20 years of Rapid, Canoeroots and Adventure Kayak.

Why You Should Smell Your Paddling Gear

cartoon character smelling foul smelling gear with a smile
Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco

As far as I know, I’m the only kid who liked the smell of mildew. When I wandered to the back of the garage, I’d get a whiff of what I called, “camping smell”. The source was an old army surplus canvas tent that had been packed away wet too many times.

I didn’t associate the fragrance with fungi of the genus Erysiphales brought on by excessive moisture, instead I smelled paddling trips on the Great Lakes and the coast of Maine, roasting marshmallows, and mucking around in tidepools.

As I write these words, I’m recovering from an injury that’s kept me out of kayaking for several months. When I wander into the basement and catch a whiff of salty neoprene I can feel the rise and fall of the hull. The Russian physiologist Ivan Petrovich Pavlov would be proud.

Pavlov won the Nobel Prize For Proving The Conditional Reflex. By ringing a bell at dinnertime, he showed that a sound—the bell alone—would trigger the digestive system in dogs. This discovery way back in 1904 made him, unknowingly at the time, the first to explain why being a gearhead is good for kayakers.

Like the bell causing the dog to drool, when my hands grip the shaft of my surf and rock-gardening paddle, I feel my torso muscles coil for a sprint through the rocks. The feel of that particular shaft tells my body to break down adenosine diphosphate and be ready for a sudden burst of exertion. And that’s just in my basement.

Most long-time kayakers have a love-hate relationship with gearheads. We malign folks who focus on gear more than skills, or who accumulate garages full of boats but don’t paddle them. Gear can be a barrier to the experience—more stuff to lug around, rely on, break, lose and spend money replacing—money that could otherwise be spent on paddling trips. But our friend Pavlov proved that the sensory experience of outdoor gear triggers how our body acts. And in kayaking, gear is our connection to the water.

Unlike rock climbers who grab tiny holds directly with what little skin is left on their fingertips, we feel the texture of water through the shape of the hulls of our boats and the stiffness of the blades and shafts of our paddles: our gear is our fingertips. When we’re off the water, that conditional reflex remains a link to the exhilaration, joy, and peace of paddling. Medical research shows that when we can’t be doing the real thing recalling time in nature is good for our blood pressure, creativity, and peace of mind.

[ See the largest selection of boats and gear in the Paddling Buyer’s Guide ]

But in ringing bells and feeding dogs, Pavlov missed something else about human beings. Really want the paddling juju? Grab a neoprene skirt or, if you’re really brave, a pair of booties. And take a whiff.

Another pair of pair of Nobel Laureates, Richard Axel and Linda Buck, won the the big prize in 2004 for figuring out how smell affects the brain.

Smells trigger the strongest reactions and memories of all our senses. Smells go directly into the hippocampus and amigdyala, parts of the brain related to immediate response, emotion, and memory. No wonder we love the smell of the sea or home cooking.

So, if we want to be primed for either action on the water, or memories of it, we’re doing it all wrong.

As a photographer, I trade in the visuaI. When I’m stuck in the city, I use sight cues to remind me of wilderness. A marine chart of my favorite island chain hangs on my wall and my screen saver cycles images from memorable trips. I use sounds too. My cell phone pings with birdsongs from remote canyons. Naturalists have been sold nature sounds relaxation tapes for decades. But these sights and sounds skip the all-important hippocampus and amygdala.

[ Plan your next paddling adventure with the Paddling Trip Guide ]

Since smell is the strongest trigger, let’s embrace it. I’m closing up my lavender and peach blossom Glade air freshener and searching online for a scent infuser loaded with the briny balm of tidepools and decaying seaweed with subtle hints of sweaty drytop. I’ll put it on my desk in the office.

When my coworkers complain, I’ll tell them that three Nobel Laureates told me to do it. Maybe they’ll get the hint and send me home to go kayaking. If not, I’ll break out the mildew, must and mold scented candles.

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco

Why Paddling Is The Best Antidote To Climate Change Despair

person gazing up at a sea of stars with a headlamp
Guardian of the galaxy, people from the edges of things bring understandings back from the forest to the kingdom. | Photo: Henry Liu

I sometimes struggle to justify my seemingly selfish outdoor pursuits, my obsession with the obscure and anachronistic art of paddling in a world that is facing an environmental crisis of mind-blowing proportions.

I mean, there’s disturbing news out there, stories that ought to be plastered all over the headlines but are usually buried in the back pages. Like the fact that global wildlife populations have dropped by 60 percent since 1970—and two-thirds will be gone by 2020!

And I won’t even get into climate change, how much catastrophic warming is already locked in no matter how much we change our habits now. Stephen Hawking recently predicted we have 100 years to colonize other planets or face extinction.

Meanwhile, in the face of all these existential threats, our culture is in total denial. Oil exploration is booming. Environmental regulations are being shredded. The Paris climate agreement, our last great hope, however toothless, may be on the rocks. The chasm between the severity of the problem and the comparative business-as-usual state of news and politics and everyday life is staggering. To paraphrase the environmental journalist Wen Stephenson, we are all navel gazing while the planet burns.

These dark thoughts are not something to bring up in polite company. My friends and I have all settled into our adult lives. We’re fully vested in the status quo. The combination of dire predictions and sheer helplessness makes for a downer of a dinner party topic.

Taking this stuff on alone is worse.

I came across the story of a New Yorker who was so worried about climate change she couldn’t sleep. She was taking the stairs everywhere to save electricity and pamphleteering idling motorists to get them to turn off their engines. She just couldn’t get why nobody else seems concerned. I saw myself ending up as she did, seeking professional therapy. I mean, the world is ending. Why aren’t we shouting it from the rooftops?

There’s a diagnosis for this now. It’s called eco-anxiety. The American Psychological Association just released a report about it, how worrying about climate change is ruining our mental health. “The psychological responses to climate change, such as conflict avoidance, fatalism, fear, helplessness, and resignation are growing,” it concludes.

person secluded staring up at the sea of stars

Where does the paddling lifestyle fit into all this, I wonder. Kayaking is not exactly zero impact. It burns resources, and uses high tech equipment made from petrochemicals. Truthfully, the thrill of a great trip often inspires me to buy more gear or plane tickets for the next adventure. Even as I write this, I’m shopping for a new SUV, something big and burly enough for long family trips to remote areas with boats on the roof. Wouldn’t I be doing more to help the planet if I just stayed home and took public transit to the library?

I’m not sure.

Despite all the inherent contradictions, I think that outdoor adventure makes for better people and a better planet. But not for the reason that we usually assume: that going into nature magically makes us care more about it, which for all I know may not even be true.

First of all, paddling on an ocean, or gazing up at the stars, which constantly reminds you how small and insignificant you are, liberates you from the illusion of your own importance. After all, it is not only mentally unhealthy try to singlehandedly save the planet, it’s pretty much impossible.

The environmentalist Derrick Jensen covers this in an aptly titled essay, “Forget Shorter Showers.” He argues that carbon emissions need to be cut by at least 75 percent, and that no amount of changing light bulbs or avoiding driving could ever bring us close.

“The whole individualist what-you-can-do-to-save-the-Earth guilt trip is a myth. We, as individuals, are not creating the crises, and we can’t solve them,” states Kirkpatrick Sale in Jensen’s essay.

It’s just an illusion of our hyper-individualistic, consumer society to think we’re so important as to be able to make a real difference through our personal choices alone. Spending time in nature is the ideal salve for this burden. It’s hugely comforting. What a great relief to realize that you’re not personally responsible for wrecking the planet—or fixing it!

Quite possibly outdoor travel does teach us to care for the Earth, but more importantly it teaches us not to care too much.

In these times what is really required is not individual change, but radical, cultural and political change. This is the second reason that I think outdoor adventure has value. It’s a transformative experience that opens the door for major upheaval. Ever noticed how staring into a campfire at the end of a long paddling day triggers those deep thoughts about life’s big questions? We’ve all felt it. Coming home from a long wilderness journey shakes you up and makes you ripe for transformation, not in a “switch to LED light bulbs” kind of way, but in a dramatic, paradigm-shifting kind of way.

The British environmental writer Paul Kingsnorth defends the value of what he calls, walking up the mountain: “Most of the world’s great religions, philosophies, art forms, even political systems and ideologies were initiated by marginal figures. There is a reason for that: sometimes you have to go to the edges to get some perspective on the turmoil at the heart of things. Doing so is not an abnegation of public responsibility: it is a form of it. In the old stories, people from the edges of things brought ideas and understandings from the forest back to the kingdom which the kingdom could not generate by itself.”

Now, I haven’t descended from the mountains with any stone tablets or great, world-saving insights thus far, but at least I have come back feeling a whole lot happier. It provides an antidote to despair that we can too easily feel being bombarded by news that the world is falling to pieces.

[ Paddling Trip Guide: View all kayaking, canoeing, rafting and SUP adventures ]

Back to that APA report, if we’re to deal with the impending challenges, we need our wits about us. We need ingenuity. We need psychological resiliency. We can’t succumb to hopelessness or the dangerous fad of denial.

There’s many a day that I’ve felt total despair, a virtual paralysis of worry that drives me to think crazy thoughts like, “I should give up paddling to reduce my ecological footprint,” only to be replaced after a couple of hours on the water by a joie de vivre and readiness to tackle just about anything.

I’ll never give up paddling because it’s the best therapy I know. Heading outdoors with a paddle in hand puts us in a sharp, healthy, tuned-in, problem-solving frame of mind, which is a much more powerful position from which to change the world, or at least put up with whatever the challenges the future may bring.

Tim Shuff is a former editor and now regular contributor to Adventure Kayak magazine.

Guardian of the galaxy, people from the edges of things bring understandings back from the forest to the kingdom. | Photo: Henry Liu



This article was first published in Issue 51 of
Paddling Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here.

Jon Babulic’s Journey From Construction Manager To Custom Canoe Builder

Man paddling a long wooden canoe
Babulic's skin-on-frame kayaks are elegant and perfectly fitted to the paddler.

Two years ago, Jon Babulic had a successful career in construction management and hadn’t taken more than a week off since graduating university.

When his company restructured and offered him an out, the 43-year-old Guelph, Ontario resident decided it was time for a vacation.

“I figured I’d take the summer off, then go back to work in the fall,” recalls Babulic. In just a few short months, he estimates he canoed, kayaked, sailed and fished some 2,500 kilometers. “I paddled like a lunatic,” he chuckles.

Small boats are in Babulic’s blood. Growing up on Lake Superior, he would borrow his father’s kayak, a 1980s Perception Dancer whitewater design. By age 8, he remembers fellow cottagers gathering on the beach to watch father and son surf the crashing waves. He’s even more at home in canoes, trolling for lakers or seeking out remote fishing holes.

During that first summer of freedom, Babulic wished for a lightweight solo canoe he could transport easily into the backcountry. “But I couldn’t get my head around spending $4,000 on a Kevlar boat. And I wasn’t in love with any of the shapes, so I decided to build my own.” It’s not as crazy as it sounds. Babulic already had the necessary woodworking skills, a hobby he learned making bamboo fly rods.

Browsing Pinterest one rainy afternoon, Babulic spotted a skin-on frame design and immediately saw the lightweight advantage of this construction method. The final piece fell into place when Babulic stumbled across an open-source naval architecture program from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

Babulic built his first skin-on-frame canoe in just four days. The result was lightweight and strong, and even better, “it paddled like a real canoe.” Over the next year, he “built and paddled, then built and paddled some more.” Everywhere the builder and his eye-catching creations went, people admired the translucent hulls.

Babulic realized he had the makings of a new career

“I thought, ‘What the hell,’” he laughs, and Backcountry Custom Canoes was born. Last year, Babulic built some 20 canoes and half a dozen sea kayak prototypes. The Backcountry Custom Canoes website lists three broad categories: solo canoe, tandem canoe and sea kayak.

Within these parameters, however, his designs are infinitely customizable. “The beauty of skin-on-frame construction is that I can build any shape imaginable,” he says, “creating a truly custom boat that’s fitted perfectly for you.”

[ Paddling Buyer’s Guide: View all kayaks ]

Babulic’s boat design process

Typically, it begins with a discussion about how the kayak should look and paddle, informed by the customer’s preferences and other boats they enjoy. “You could tell me, ‘I want a Romany-style kayak with three hatches and a rounded chine, but a bit shorter with a little less rocker, and I want it to be half the weight,’” he explains. “Then I take your measurements, shape the wood around you, and build it to fit.”

He uses Douglas fir for the stringers and longitudinal pieces, and sturdy black ash for the steam-bent ribs and cross members. Ribs are pinned in place with bamboo skewers, glued and tied to the stringers with nylon. The completed frame is then spray-coated with urethane varnish and is ready for the final—and most tedious—step: skinning.

Along with the painstaking process of laminating the cockpit coaming, this is Babulic’s least favourite part of the build. It takes three days to hand-sew the sheets of ballistic nylon around the frame. He then finishes the skin with urethane and adds epoxy “skid plates” to high-wear areas.

Each one of Babulic’s kayaks takes two weeks to construct

A 30-pound, 17-foot base model starts at $3,000 Canadian. Along with the unique aesthetic and considerable weight savings compared to composites, he insists his skin-on-frame boats are tougher than most hardshell kayaks. If you run into something, the skin flexes to absorb the impact, he explains.

Any damage can be repaired with contact cement, and heavily abused hulls can be re-varnished or even re-skinned as needed. Durability and longevity aside, “They’re really fun to paddle,” he says, “a crossover between organic wooden boats and more modern shape and performance.”

The kayak Babulic dropped off at the Adventure Kayak offices is one he designed for his 72-year-old, 6’2”, 250-pound father, “so Dad could go surfing again.” The elder Babulic is a former middle linebacker in the Canadian Football League and, as his son explains, “He surfs like a guy who played for the Saskatchewan Roughriders in the ‘70s.” In other words, “It’s a tank!” Babulic admits with a laugh.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is a prototype he calls the Needle. It’s a race-inspired design that borrows traits from Epic surfskis and Rockpool Kayaks’ speedy Taran. “I wanted to experiment with form, to see if I could take a thousands-of-years-old technique and make a modern surfski,” he says. “The ultimate combination of old and new.”

To paddle a Backcountry Custom Canoe design is to return to the ancestral origins of kayaking: each boat built for a specific person, with attention to where and how he or she will use it.

This article originally appeared in Issue 51 of Paddling Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here, or browse the archives here.

Kayaking And Being Held Captive By Colombian Guerrillas

graffiti on an abandoned building in Columbia
Photo: Chris Korbulic

The Colorado-born kayaker had just arrived at his put-in, the village of La Tunia in the southern Colombian jungle, on his way to a first-decent of the Apaporis River.

“The writing was literally on the wall,” Ben Stookesberry recalls.

Stookesberry, Chris Korbulic and Jessie Rice, Spaniard Aniol Serrasolses and Frenchman Jules Domine had planned a month-long expedition down the remote river in the northwest Amazon basin.

The graffiti on this wall of an abandoned building, once occupied by the notorious Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia known by the Spanish acronym FARC, was fairly recent but according to Stookesberry, did not alarm them at the time.

“The village was mostly empty. This seemed to follow the narrative of the peace process,” says Stookesberry.

[ Plan your next paddling adventure with the Paddling Trip Guide ]

In late 2016, the Colombian government and FARC signed a peace accord in which the latter tentatively agreed to demobilize. From the Arctic Circle to Papua New Guinea, Stookesberry has kayaked plenty of what he calls “fuhgeddaboudit” whitewater.

Kayaking The Columbian Waters

graffiti on an abandoned building in Columbia
Photo: Chris Korbulic

Though the Apaporis does boast class V rapids, this river has been on his list not because it is particularly challenging paddle.

We had a different mission,” he explains. “We wanted to explore a river that was isolated politically. Our mission was not so much to test the river’s navigability as much as test the peace process.

The real test happened about 500 miles into the expedition. A motorboat containing a woman and several men, all toting AK-47s, pulled the paddlers over to the riverbank and searched them and their boats. The woman in charge starting going through the images on my camera and when she handed it back to me I could see that she had deleted the card.

This began a three-day ordeal during which the FARC soldiers held the paddlers in a series of jungle camps. Awaiting orders from an unnamed, unseen commander, the soldiers questioned Stookesberry and the others and confiscated many of their belongings.

After the commander confirmed the paddlers’ identities their gear was returned and they were free to continue on their trip. Instead, they decided to fly out from a small airstrip in the village of Pacoa Buenos Aires.

Fearing they might be held indefinitely, two of the paddlers had secretly communicated their position using GPS messengers to emergency contacts. They feared that if the FARC had discovered this, their relative goodwill would have quickly evaporated.

Even still, Stookesberry underlines how well the guerrillas treated him and the other kayakers, “In the past, I don’t think our situation would have de-escalated as quickly or amicably.”

Featured Photo: Chris Korbulic

Kayaker Bren Orton Living Unleashed

kayaker Brent Orton looking up at photographer

It’s hard to be down when you’re always looking up

When Rapid caught up with Bren Orton this April, he was just days away from the debut of Unleashed, the new big water competition held in Quebec. The 22-year-old known for his distinct freestyle on huge waves and hucking waterfalls all over the world is part of a collective called Send, the organizers of Unleashed. Bren explains that his goals for the event are similar to those of any amazing day kayaking: to have a great time with great people on amazing whitewater.

ON GETTING STARTED IN WHITEWATER

As a nine-year-old living in Warrington, England, Orton went on a school trip outside of the city where students participated in a range of outdoor activities.

One of those was kayaking. After the trip he begged his parents for a kayak. The sport began taking up most of his free time.

I did all sorts of things to get out of school to kayak.

While he was in school, sitting at his desk he would fidget with his calculator or erasers, sending them down imaginary lines. Today Orton can’t imagine where he would be or what he would be doing if he weren’t a kayaker. “I don’t think there’s any alternative.”

THE MOST INTERESTING PLACE KAYAKING HAS TAKEN HIM

Almost every year Orton spends a few weeks in the village of Nicartu in Uganda, right beside the world-famous Nile Special wave. Orton first went when he was just 16 years old—he borrowed his grandmother’s credit card to book the flight. “But I paid her back immediately,” he says. The warm water and amazing community keep him coming back when the Northern Hemisphere’s rivers are frozen solid.

THE IMPORTANCE OF LEARNING PATIENCE

Orton says the most important thing kayaking has taught him is patience, a quality that pervades all aspects of the sport.

You have to wait for the right water levels and the right conditions.

The patience also extends to his own abilities, especially allowing himself the experience of being humbled by rivers and different conditions. This was highlighted for Orton during a super high water run of the Little White Salmon this past spring. He considers it the biggest challenge of his kayaking career so far.

THE MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT PRO KAYAKERS

Images of professional kayakers travelling to remote and far-flung rivers can lead to misconceptions about their lifestyles.

A lot of people think we have a ton of money to go and travel.

However, this was the first year he didn’t need to work a random job like digging graves or manning call center phones to fund his kayaking plans. He says his life isn’t glamorous and money can be tight. The sacrifices he makes seem small given he gets to paddle amazing rivers with his closest friends.

ON THE FUTURE

Over the next two to three years, Orton wants to focus on running waterfalls. He has a few big projects he’s developing that center around big drops. He also wants to continue working on his racing, freestyle and big water paddling.

My ultimate goal is to be the best all-around kayaker I can be.

One Question For 13 Kayakers

man sitting in kayak reading Fellowship of the ring

Dane Jackson

I would love to make music. I definitely love to rap. One more thing to look up to Rush Sturges for, besides kayaking.

Tyler Bradt

I like to crochet hats.

Claire O’Hara

I once represented Great Britain in soccer.

Adriene Levknecht

A lot of people don’t know that I actually work as a paramedic for the largest EMS agency in South Carolina.

Mariann Saether

I used to be a baton twirler for 12 years. I led my local marching band in parades. Yeah!

Sage Donnelly

I have a deep love for Chinese food—sweet and sour bean curd to be specific. Oh, and jelly beans.

Erik Boomer

I am a pretty good seamster—that’s a male seamstress.

Chris Gragtmans

I am also a commercial real estate broker and investor. That world absolutely fascinates me. I hope to be part of the fight against urban sprawl.

Nick Troutman

I like art, painting, drawing and creating.

Ben Stookesberry

I love to Rollerblade

Corran Addison

I’m a dedicated student of 19th and early 20th century European history, and to a lesser degree classical history of about 400 BCE to about 400 CE. And I love racing sport bikes.

Nouria Neuman

Outside kayaking I’m a little bit of a dork. I studied political science, I love weird books, modern art museums and I would be very happy if you took me to a good opera or classical music concert.

Bren Orton

I can read.

How Your Paddle Shapes You

broken canoe paddle standing on log
this is test 2

I broke my paddle. If upon reading that line, you feel a sinking, sad feeling, then you have likely broken a paddle too. If it was a paddle you’d had for a long time you can relate to my deep sense of loss. You get it.

This paddle was made of basswood and maple, 58 centimeters long. It was not fancy. It was a single-blade canoe paddle, which served double duty canoe guiding and paddle rafting.

The day I bought it I dedicated one of my best woolen socks and pulled it over the walnut T-grip for a lifetime of protection from rough shuttle roads and the travel logistics of a guide’s transient lifestyle. That was 1995. The very same sock is still on the t-grip today.

It has steered me through stages of my life and landed me where I am today. This paddle has shaped what I believe and who I am

Even though last spring the blade broke off just below the throat and was lost in the shallow swift currents of the Opeongo River. The shaft with t-grip and sock lean in my gear shed and probably always will.

Twenty-six years of service, all but the last couple of which were full-time, almost year-round, pulling water and moving boats downstream. How many river miles is that? I have a hard time even guessing. It is hard not to be sentimental, considering the amazing places that this paddle has taken me. We have been on more adventures together than any of my closest friends or family.

[ Paddling Buyer’s Guide: View all wooden canoe paddles ]

If you consider guiding as my trade, then this paddle was more than my tool. It turned my muscle energy into forwarding motion. It turned my intention to go left or right into a reality. This paddle has moved me through a wide variety of landscapes I feel very fortunate to have visited.

It has steered me through stages of my life and landed me where I am today. This paddle has shaped what I believe and who I am. In the 1960s, renaissance man Michael Polanyi, medical doctor, chemist, economist, and philosopher, wrote about how our tools become an extension of ourselves.

The paddle teaches us to feel the water

We paddlers talk about how we “feel” the water. Technically it is the paddle that we are feeling and it is the forces of the rivers’ currents, acting against our paddle, that we sense against the palms of our hands. Our hands remain dry, yet we feel the water. A paddle, in this case, becomes the means by which we interpret our river environment.

[ Paddling Buyer’s Guide: View all recreational canoe paddles ]

“The way we use a hammer or a blind man uses his stick shows in fact that in both cases we shift outward the points at which we make contact with the world. While we rely on a tool, these are not handled as external objects,” wrote Polanyi. “We pour ourselves out into them and assimilate them as parts of our existence.”

Polanyi differentiates novices who “use” tools, from mastery, which involves adopting and assimilating a tool as an extension of one’s body. While “master” is an adjective I’ve never used to describe myself, my sense of loss is greater than a novice would expect from just a broken paddle.

I’ve tried several since I broke my one true paddle. None of them are quite right. I have half a dozen other paddles, some of which are very nice indeed. Yet, they feel awkward and clumsy in my hands like dancing with a new partner after a lifetime dancing with one true love. The music and steps are the same but the magic is not.

Hundreds of thousands of strokes on different rivers at different times mean no other paddle will ever feel the same. I am unlikely to accumulate as many river miles in the rest of my days as I did in the first 15 years guiding before a real job, wife, and family.

Mechanically, these new paddles enter the water just as gracefully. I know they have the same effect on a hard pry. Existentially, however, they are not a part of who I am.

Yes, I can feel the water, but that feeling is dull, empty and without history. I’m sure when I settle on another paddle I will eventually get used to it. After thousands of forward strokes, I may even grow to enjoy it. But it can never be the same.

6 Essential Packrafting Items You Need For Fall

man holding a kayak paddle and wearing paddling gear
this is a test

The end of summer and the beginning of fall can be a difficult and exciting time of year. Lower water and solo runs as shuttle buddies head back to school, work or wherever they go after Labor Day. You might want to consider packrafting.

You probably have most of the gear already. Add these specialty items to open new doors to backcountry opportunities that packrafting offers. No shuttle buddies? No problem. Hike in, bike in or get dropped off and you are all set to go.

1. Sunski Unisex Taravals Sunglasses

$58 | WWW.SUNSKI.COM

Sunglasses | Photo: Gabriel Rivett-Carnac

Come blazing sun, overcast, cloudy or just because you want to look badass. Sunski advertises all their models as unisex. Multifunctional gift giving baby!

The Taravals come in two color options, Black Aqua and Frosted Lava. All Sunski lens are thermally coated to help protect them from scratches and the inevitable scrapes. The are also polarized to further protect your eyes from glare and help you see rocks and fish below.

The frames are super lightweight and the fit is comfortable and reassuringly secure. Sunski’s frame warranty covers dog bites and melting from Deet or exposure to lava… pretty much anything, really.

2. MTI AdventureWear Thunder R-Spec PFD

$224.95 | WWW.MTIADVENTUREWEAR.COM

PFD | Photo: Gabriel Rivett-Carnac

The Thunder R-Spec is probably the beefiest PFD in MTI AdventureWear’s line up. This class V rescue-ready vest available only in this Kermit green color which is fine with us— stylish and helps you stand out on the horizon line.

The frontzip entry makes this PFD easy to wrap around a variety of layers. Two fleece hand-warming pockets are hidden under interior pockets that fit a variety of ditch kit items.

This new PFD has increased flotation and a US Coast Guard-approved rescuer’s harness built into it. Reflective trim and a built-in quick-release buckle will help keep your mind and your river buddies’ minds at ease.

3. Werner Paddles Pack-Tour M

$335 | WWW.WERNERPADDLES.COM

Paddle | Photo: Gabriel Rivett-Carnac

Werner created the Pack-Tour M specifically for multi-sport pack rafting adventures. The shaft has a simple push-button system that breaks apart into four easy to stow pieces. There are two length options: 200cm to 215cm and 210cm to 225cm.

Confused? The two sizes adjust depending on the width of the boat or if you’re in moving water or touring mode. Broken down, the longest section of the longer paddle is only 31.5 inches. The high-angle blades are 615 square centimeters is size which is roughly the same as Werner’s Cypress high-angle touring blade.

For me the Pack-Tour M is a bombproof expedition-kayaking paddle. But if you’re truly only running the gnar, go with one of Werner’s four-piece river running paddles giving up handy adjustability for increased whitewater durability.

4. Kokatat GoreTex Radius Drysuit

$1,295 | WWW.KOKATAT.COM

Drysuit | Photo: Gabriel Rivett-Carnac

If you are looking for a multi-use, full-dry piece of essential paddling gear check out Kokatat’s Radius touring dry suit. The SwitchZip zipper is placed to separate the Radius into a complete top and bottom. The top can be worn independently as a dry top with a fold-down hood that can be removed entirely.

The pants are not tight fitting and can be worn comfortably around camp or hiking or biking to your put-in. It took me a few times to get the hang of lining up the zipper and screwing down the latch but the two-piece convenience offsets the learning curve.

One of the best parts of the Kokatat Radius? Going to the bathroom doesn’t take an army to get me unzipped and unwrapped—perfect for solo packrafting adventures.

5. HANZ USA Chillblocker Waterproof Gloves

$55.95 | WWW.HANZUSA.COM

Gloves. |Photo: Gabriel Rivett-Carnac

I first tested these Chillblocker Waterproof Gloves on a late November adventure, rather appropriately eight days after the region’s first snowstorm. Seven hours on the water, my hands were still warm. Hanz USA uses a three-layered membrane to help create a waterproof barrier.

The internal wicking layer helps move sweat away from your hands. Consistently an XL in ski gloves, I found these to fit slightly larger than other brands so I was okay with just a large. The palms and fingers of the Chillblocker Waterproof gloves were very helpful in keeping a steady grip on my icy paddle. And dexterity was not an issue for frozen zippers, buckles and lighting stoves for a mid-day lunch.

6. SealLine Bulkhead Compression Dry Bag

$27.48 | WWW.SEALLINEGEAR.COM

Dry Bag | Photo: Gabriel Rivett-Carnac

AIRE’s packrafts have webbing loops between the floor and sidewall gunwales. These new SealLine compression bags attach nicely into those loops to rest between your legs or knees.

But here’s the best part. Once you’ve rolled and clipped the bag like a regular dry bag you can now compress and expel even more air. How? SealLine has created what they call the PurgeAir waterproof valve. As you compress the bag and synch the straps tighter, you can push in the valve and let out more air.

This clever innovation creates a compact dry bag that is easy to pack, stow, carry and most importantly keep your valuables dry. The Bulkhead series is available in four sizes and three colors—the trendy green is available in both the small five-liter and large 30-liter options.