Not all threats are equally dangerous. To put the risks in perspective, we look at your nine biggest backcountry fears. Find out which are valid, which are bogus, what should really be worrying you and how to prepare for all of them.
The real hazards and false fears of wilderness camping
1 Hypothermia
According to the U.S. National Safety Council, exposure is the number one killer outdoors. It’s caused when cold, wet or windy conditions cause body temperature to drop—below 95 degrees Fahrenheit is a medical emergency.
Statistically speaking, it’s unlikely to be a winter camping trip that endangers you—hypothermia preys on the unprepared. Many cases occur when the temperature is between 30 and 50 degrees. Florida, one of the warmest states, reports hundreds of cases of exposure each year because recreationalists aren’t prepared for cold weather.
Best defense: Remember the acronym C.O.L.D.Cover up, avoid Overexertion and activities that cause you to sweat, wear Layers and stay Dry.
Far more dangerous than a grizzly bear are the nearsighted deer wandering America’s interstates. | Photo: Janko Ferlic/Pexels
2 Wild animals
Cougars and grizzly bears have brawn, beauty and a certain terrifying mystique, but even combined, attacks on humans resulting in fatalities average just two per year in North America. Far more dangerous are the nearsighted deer wandering America’s interstates.
In the U.S., vehicle collisions with deer cause about 200 human deaths every year. Pennsylvania has the highest number, with an estimated 115,000 collisions in 2013. According to State Farm Insurance, West Virginia holds the dubious distinction of being the state where you’re actually most likely to hit a deer (a one in 39 chance over a 12-month period).
Best defense: Slow down. (Or drive a really, really big truck.)
3 Injury
Injuries resulting in death in the wilderness are uncommon. A three-year internal study by the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), which was conducted over 441,885 program days, found that athletic injuries accounted for 50 percent of all injuries on trip, and soft-tissue injuries accounted for another 30 percent.
Athletic injuries were most often sprains and strains of knees (35 percent), ankles (30 percent) and backs (13 percent). Falls and slips were the most common reasons for injuries, resulting from games (such as touch tag), rock hops while stream crossing and lifting boats. There were no fatalities during the study period.
Best defense: Stay fit prior, and lay off the contact sports on trip.
4 Illness
As reported by NOLS in the same study, the most common illnesses affecting participants on trip are gastrointestinal upsets, such as nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. Recent research supported by Tulane University challenges the conventional wisdom that an upset tummy is the result of ill-treated water containing water-borne bacteria, giardia (cause of the infamous beaver fever).
Experts now think many gastro cases are caused by a far more disgusting culprit—what we call Poopy Hand Syndrome. PHS results from poor hygiene practices—fecal bacteria spread from hand to mouth—and it can rip through a group like wildfire.
Best defense: Use hand sanitizer prior to meals and wash hands religiously. And, don’t poop on your hands.
Paddlers rarely seem to worry about dehydration—water is everywhere, right? Dehydration can be an insidious crippler of good judgment, even before it becomes physically crippling. Combatting this common ailment sounds deceptively simple—just drink water.
The adage that recommends adults drink 64 ounces (eight glasses) daily might seem like overkill at home but won’t cut it on an active outdoors trip at any time of year.
Best defense: Juice crystals and electrolyte solutions can help up your intake and stave off water boredom.
Campfires and stoves look hazardous but are thankfully responsible for few trip-ending injuries. The greater danger may lie overhead. Skin cancer is the most common type of cancer with more than two million Americans diagnosed each year.
Children are especially vulnerable: The Skin Cancer Foundation predicts one blistering sunburn in childhood or adolescence more than doubles a person’s chances of developing melanoma later in life.
Best defense: The sun protection factor on sunscreen refers to UVB rays, which are primarily responsible for sunburns. Your sunscreen may not protect against UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
7 Drowning
According to the Red Cross, each year in Canada there are approximately 525 water-related fatalities. Of those, 166 are boating-related incidents. Alcohol is present or suspected in more than 50 percent of cases. The Red Cross estimates that wearing a life jacket would prevent 90 percent of those deaths.
Best defense: Wear a properly fitting PFD. Don’t drink and paddle. Invest in swim lessons for kids and water-wary adults.
Each year, lightning kills approximately 33 people in the U.S. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration estimates the odds of being killed by lightning in any given year are one in 1.9 million. Those are pretty slim odds. The greatest danger of any kind of severe weather lies in not recognizing the threat in time to react.
Best defense: Listen to the forecast and keep an eye on the sky. Be wary of cauliflower-esque clouds with rapid vertical growth; this often indicates a thunderstorm, wind and heavy rain are on the way. Get off the water and seek shelter.
9 Not going at all
The wilderness might seem intimidating sometimes, but face it—smog, Big Macs and a sedentary lifestyle pose bigger threats to your health than anything you’re likely to face in the woods. All three are linked to lifestyle risk factors for heart disease, the leading cause of death in North America, causing 611,105 deaths last year according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
America’s entire national park system, which saw 283 million visits in 2012, suffered just 143 fatalities that year (including car accidents, and front and backcountry deaths). Countless studies prove time in nature increases happiness and decreases stress hormones, blood pressure and heart rate. Children who engage in outdoor play have enhanced imaginations and attention spans, and do better in the classroom.
Best defense: Go camping. Repeat regularly.
This article was first published in the Early Summer 2015 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.
An environment-proof dry case and speaker, Drytunes pairs via Bluetooth or cord to any device and snaps shut with room for the items I carry around during the day: keys, wallet, a light layer and snack. Magnetic controls let me change songs and volume without opening the case, and after a full day of use, the rechargeable battery is still running. My favorite feature: exceptional sound quality. You’ll be amazed.
Whether you want tropical beaches, northern fjords, cultural experiences or wildlife encounters, here are 10 ultimate kayaking destinations around the world.
Antarctica
Paddle with icebergs and penguins, visit research stations, follow the footsteps of Shackleton, and experience the austere beauty of the world’s most isolated continent—all made more accessible by a handful of specialised expedition mother ships.
Vancouver Island
Explore the wild coastline of Nootka, relax on the sandy beaches of Clayoquot Sound, kayak with orcas in the Johnstone Straight and indulge in a soak at Hot Springs Cove. Have camera ready for whales, wolves, eagles and sea otters—but also keep that raingear handy!
Patagonia by Flickr.com/photos/chrisschoenbohm
Patagonia
With windswept fjords, restless volcanoes, hot-springs, glacial rivers and enough islands and inlets to keep European explorers flummoxed for decades, Patagonia is the ultimate bucket list destination for adventurous kayakers seeking spectacular scenery and challenging paddling conditions.
Panama
Want to kayak and snorkel with turtles, rays and whale sharks? Head to the Pacific island of Coiba, known as Panama’s Galapagos. To explore the Atlantic side, paddle the picture perfect San Blas Islands and enjoy the hospitality of the indigenous Kuna people.
Paddling in Hawaii by Flickr.com/photos/fortes/
Hawaii
For a peaceful daytrip, paddle with dolphins in Kona’s Kealakekua Bay or depart Oahu’s Kailua Beach for a picnic and swim at the Mokulua Islands. For paddlers ready for challenging surf and currents, explore Kauai’s famed Napali Coast or the north shore of Molokai, home of the tallest sea cliffs in the world.
New Zealand
With diverse landscapes and climates, the North and South Islands have an incredible array of kayaking options. The coastal paradise of Abel Tasman National Park is perhaps NZ’s most famous paddling destination, but there are dozens of options from Milford Sound in rugged Fiordland to the sub-tropical Bay of Islands.
Baja
Sun-kissed sandy beaches, warm waters and spectacular sunsets over the Pacific keep many kayakers returning to this paddling paradise year after year. Paddle with migratory gray whales in Bahia Magdalena, explore Loreto’s Gulf Islands, or try your hand at some seriously epic kayak fishing.
Kayaking in Gros Morne, Newfoundland by Flickr.com/photos/grosmornecoop
Newfoundland
The cold waters around the Rock are more than balanced by the warm welcome of the people. Explore the rocky grandeur of Gros Morne National Park or paddle with puffins, whales and icebergs along the Avalon Peninsula.
Iceland
Hot springs, geysers, waterfalls, volcanoes – this mystical island of sagas, storms and endless summer daylight feels like an alternate reality. Paddle past glaciers along the fjords of Jökulfirðir, or explore the cosmopolitan city of Reykjavik from the water.
Ireland
The Emerald Isle boasts an irresistible mix of history, culture, picturesque seaside villages and ocean paddling for all levels. Visit the haunts of Gaelic pirate queen Granuaille along the Connemara coastline, test your skills in the surf at Bundoran or dozens of lesser known breaks, and wrap up your day swapping tales in the local pub.
TAKE TWO: NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE CANYON OF
INFAMOUS REMOTE RIVER. AND...ACTION! | PHOTO:JENS KLATT
Through an expert combination of thoughtful interviews and heart-stopping whitewater footage, German filmmaker Olaf Obsommer’s latest project, The Grand Canyon of the Stikine, captures the heart and soul of the storied river—the closest most people will get to the real experience. Born to paddling parents, Obsommer’s entire life has been on the water, and he’s been filming whitewater since 1992. The Grand Canyon of the Stikine won Best Whitewater Film in the 2015 Reel Paddling Film Festival.
Why filmmaking?
In my dreams, it’s a sex, drugs and rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle. In reality, being outside in nature is the main thing. That’s what it’s all about—I don´t have to be filming kayaking as long I’m close to Mother Earth. It’s a privilege to live this way. It fills my heart with love and makes all the effort that goes into a film worthwhile when people thank me for the inspiration and entertainment.
What makes a great whitewater film?
Action, passion, interesting characters, humor and, if possible, some historical footage. A good story, music and little bit of craziness is important. Maybe I’m old school, but I always film with a camera on a tripod with fluid head. We had two of those in Stikine Canyon. Of course it’s more stressful to run rapids with a tripod between your legs, but the quality is worth it, and a telephoto lens lets you get shots you couldn’t get on a wearable camera.
What’s your approach?
Most importantly, I try not to take myself too seriously—it’s only kayaking. It’s important to know what market you’re making a film for. If it’s just for fun, it’s easy—I can do whatever I want. If a movie is for an audience of kayakers, I don’t have to explain basics and difficulty. If it’s for non-kayakers, I explain more about the sport. For videos that will be online, I don’t like long intros—I joke that if there’s no action in the first 30 seconds, the movie fails. That’s why Stikine starts straight away with hard whitewater.
TAKE TWO: NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE CANYON OF INFAMOUS REMOTE RIVER. AND…ACTION! | PHOTO:JENS KLATT
What are the challenges?
Having extra gear in my kayak—cameras, lenses, tripods and other little tools—make it difficult to be fast. You have to have good climbing skills too. On the Stikine I’d climb 15 minutes up to get a shot. Then, after a long day of paddling and filming on the river, you have to find the motivation to shoot interviews, the camping lifestyle, landscape and wildlife. The hardest part is finding the drive and spirit to invest as much passion as possible in each shot.
How do you choose an expedition team?
Friendship is important—you can be in the most beautiful place on earth but when the chemistry is wrong in the group, it’s a nightmare. How do I avoid this? I make sure all the egos on a trip are smaller than my own! Joking aside: big egos kill adventures. I’ve heard of expeditions that ended in fistfights. Harmony is important. The people I started paddling with aren’t all still living the kayak lifestyle I am, so these days I’m usually the oldest and I’m happy to be on trips as long as I don’t slow things down too much for the young fellas.
This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2015 issue of Rapid Magazine.
Subscribe to Paddling Magazine and get 25 years of digital magazine archives including our legacy titles: Rapid, Adventure Kayak and Canoeroots.
The total biomass of all the ants on Earth is roughly equal to the total biomass of all the people on Earth. Scientists estimate there are at least 1.5 million ants on the planet for every human.
Though many campers have literally had ants in their Carhartts, the top candidate for the first non-literal use of “ants in your pants” is the 1934 recording by Chick Webb and His Orchestra, “I Can’t Dance (I Got Ants in My Pants).”
Ants are capable of carrying objects 50 times their own body weight with their mandibles. With that kind of strength, a human could hoist a pickup truck overhead.
Award for the most heroic ant of all time goes to Anty, the protagonist in the 1989 live action Disney hit, Honey, I Shrunk the Kids. Anty selflessly sacrificed herself in battle so that oddball scientist Rick Moranis’ tiny children could make it to safety. It makes more sense when you watch the movie, I promise.
The bullet ant is named because the sting of its neurotoxic venom is said to be as painful as a gunshot wound. Entomologist Justin Schmidt rated the stings of 78 insect species and described the pain of a bullet ant sting as, “pure, intense, brilliant pain. Like walking over flaming charcoal with a three-inch nail in your heel.” Which would pretty much ruin anyone’s picnic.
This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2015 issue of Canoeroots and Family Camping magazine.
Subscribe to Paddling Magazine and get 25 years of digital magazine archives including our legacy titles: Rapid, Adventure Kayak and Canoeroots.
Seattle-based Gary Luhm is one of the most prolific paddling photographers working on the water today. Whether capturing intimate portraits of seabirds and marine life, or shooting high-action kayaking and stirring seascapes—like the Early Summer issue’s cover—Luhm has combined his keen eye and his comfort in a cockpit since the early ‘90s. After learning to roll his kayak, he discovered “a whole new world: rough-water paddling, coastal exploration, solo trips.” There was no turning back—Luhm left an engineering career in 1998 to pursue his twin passions full-time.
WHO has been your most difficult subject?
We were aboard the kayak mothership Home Shore, in 2003, anchored in protected waters off Chichagof Island, Alaska. It was stormy weather—17- foot swell on the outside. My paddling buddy Tim Walsh and I paddled out through a slot between islets and into a maelstrom of ocean swell, rock reef and reflected waves. I pulled out an all-manual Nikonos underwater camera and shot a dozen, one-handed frames. A couple of images from that shoot became best sellers. Not long after, Home Shore lost their liability insurance when the insurer saw the published photos!
WHAT advice to you give photographers?
Make a shot list. If you have trouble thinking up a list, study images others have created from the area you’re going to paddle, and imagine how you could do better. Don’t shoot from eye level—lie on the ground, climb a tree. If seated in the kayak, shoot with the camera at arm’s length, either down near the water or high overhead—anything to get your subject’s eyes off the horizon line. It’s difficult to get out front for shots of paddlers moving toward you, but that’s the shot that sells. We’re wired to want to see faces.
STARVING ARTIST. PHOTO: GARY LUHM
WHEN did you run out of P.B.?
I stole the idea for this self-portrait from Seattle photographer John Greengo. His own peanut butter jar selfie accompanies a great story about how he ran out of food on a canoe trip and he wanted to represent that photographically. The empty peanut butter jar did the trick. My selfie, similarly composed with a wide-angle lens peering from the bottom of a Costco-size jar, has a starving artist angle. For execution, I simply cut the bottom out of a spent jar and tried to show some desperation in my face.
WHERE do you look for creativity?
I don’t have a problem staying creative—I’ve got an internal shot list that never shrinks. My ratio of paddling for fun versus work is probably 10:1 on the fun side. On weekends, paddling with friends or Washington Kayak Club trips, I don’t often pick up the camera. A typical year, I shoot 70 days in the field, or roughly one day in five. Non-shooting workdays, I’m editing photos, marketing, planning the next shoot, or traveling. My advice: shoot locally. You benefit from more days shooting, save on travel cost (that’s big), and it’s better for the planet (even bigger).
WHY not mountain biking or skiing?
I had some knee trouble and was looking for a sport I could really embrace. Sea kayaking is perfect: a year-round activity, as vigorous as you want it to be, no limit to skill-building, great camaraderie, quick getaways, fascinating scenery and wildlife, and great food, too. Exploring by kayak is endless. Lately, I’m almost glad it seems to be losing popularity to SUP and other lower-cost-of-entry activities. We can still have those remote, no-cell-service beaches to ourselves.
This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2015 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.
Subscribe to Paddling Magazine and get 25 years of digital magazine archives including our legacy titles: Rapid, Adventure Kayak and Canoeroots.
Northwind Solo By Northstar Canoes | PHOTO: GEOFF WHITLOCK
Nine years after selling Bell Canoe Works to ORC Industries, Ted Bell is back at the helm of a canoe making business.
Northstar Canoes Northwind Solo Specs
Length: 15 ft 6 in Width: 26.5in gw / 30 in mx Weight: 33 lbs Optimal Load: 170–320 lbs Capacity: 700 lbs Price: $2,695 ($3,045 with wood trim) northstarcanoes.com
The new Northstar Canoes line appeared on American showroom floors with a limited run in 2013, just a year after Bell’s non-compete expired. Their catalog has since expanded from four models in the first year to nine and increased production to several hundred boats in 2015.
When I meet with Northstar Canoes’ general manager Bear Paulsen outside a casino in a blustery border town to pick up our tester model, he tells me that business is flourishing. Even in early spring, Northstar was sold out well into the summer.
Northwind Solo By Northstar Canoes | PHOTO: GEOFF WHITLOCK
The Northwind Solo is the do-everything solo canoe
I return home with a sleek Northwind Solo. It’s one of four solo designs that Northstar makes, and the only solo in their Northwind touring series. “The Northwind Solo is the do-everything solo canoe,” advises Paulsen. “It’s perfect for canoeists who don’t want to specialize in any one type of paddling.”
Built with adventure in mind, the Solo is ideal for lake tripping, travel, and even moderate whitewater. Oiled ash gunwales, walnut and ash bow and stern decks and a low seat hung on walnut trusses make it lovely to look at. I’ve only paddled a few strokes from the dock and I already understand why this has become Northstar’s most popular solo boat just a year after its release.
Responsive and energetic, the Solo only gets better when we add the weight of camping gear. It boasts good initial stability and exceptional secondary. Two-and-a-half inches of rocker in the bow and one-and-a-half in the stern hits the sweet spot between maneuverability and fast and easy tracking.
“Traditional tumblehome can create a wet boat and carry waves in,” says Paulsen of the canoe’s shouldered flare. “We carry the flare all the way up, almost to the gunwale, instead of the widest part of the canoe being at the waterline.” It’s a dry ride in rough water and when heeled over, the Solo gets wider and more stable.
The classic design and a comfortable ride. | Photo: Geoff Whitlock
A Kevlar and carbon fiber canoe by Northstar Canoes
Longtime followers of Bell Canoe Works might recognize the Northwind Solo as an updated incarnation of Bell’s Merlin II. It’s also far more user-friendly. Famed canoe designer, David Yost returned to shape this new incarnation with his son, Carl.
[ Paddling Buyer’s Guide: View all carbon fiber canoes ]
The Black Lite material of our test model is made with a carbon outer and Kevlar inner. It’s the toughest hull Northstar manufactures and tips the scales at a featherweight 33 pounds.
“Most people think of carbon as the lightest weight; for Northstar, it’s the most expensive but not the lightest lay-up,” says Paulsen. “We add more material, using carbon and Kevlar together to create more durability than either by itself at the same weight.”
The same model is made in 100-percent Kevlar (30 pounds, $2,295). A fiberglass-and-Kevlar blend Northstar calls White Gold (38 pounds, $1,895).
Northstar Canoes is unique in that they sell a high percentage of solo boats, “About 30 to 40 percent of sales are solo canoes,” says Paulsen. “I guess you could say they have a bit of a cult following—that’s Ted’s legacy.”
Paddling a Northwind Solo canoe is like being in the most stable relationship you could ever want…with a canoe. Feature Photo: Geoff Whitlock
This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2015 issue of Canoeroots and Family Camping magazine.
Subscribe to Paddling Magazine and get 25 years of digital magazine archives including our legacy titles: Rapid, Adventure Kayak and Canoeroots.
Nothing beats gear that feels and looks good while performing perfectly. The 7Figure Dry Top is part of an eye-catching new line of drywear from Immersion Research. The cut and size is dialed for long days on the water. Along with being reliably waterproof, the outer shell is also thoroughly water repellant. We don’t doubt this tough top will last for the long haul.
Nestled between condo buildings, bridges, roads and bike paths that lead to Ottawa’s bustling downtown core—just moments from the capital city’s Royal Canadian Navy Monument, War Museum and National Library—is a 19th century limestone pumphouse water station.
While it may not have always symbolized a metropolitan paddling paradise, to John Hastings, an eight-year member of Canada’s national kayak team, the old building pumps the lifeblood for Ottawa paddlers and the community he’s come to know.
Hastings first encountered the aptly named Pumphouse course at 14, when he visited Ottawa for a weeklong training camp. Those hours spent dipping into eddies and struggling in the bubbling water would be where Hastings mastered strokes, met the future best man at his wedding, and where he now plans to raise his eight-week-old son on the river.
The story of the Pumphouse—of its transformation from industrial outflow to whitewater playground—began long before Hastings was in the picture.
Ottawa River Runners’ club president Doug Corkery first discovered runoff from the pumphouse in 1972, when it was nothing more than an overgrown drainage ditch teaming with garbage left by decades of snow dumps. Corkery didn’t give the site a second glance until the late 80s when he realized the city would shut the water off for days or even weeks at a time.
When the flow stopped, Corkery and a handful of fellow paddlers took the ditch by storm, clearing trees with chainsaws and cleaning out rebar, oil cans and other toxic waste. Their guerilla mission to build a local slalom site meant building stairs down the embankment and rolling handmade obstacles into the ditch to form waves—an undercover operation on federal land.
At 7 a.m. on a rainy Friday morning, a National Capital Commission officer appeared, having been tipped off to Corkery and company’s activity by a nearby apartment dweller.
Corkery talked his way out of a ticket—“the officer thought it was a kind of cool idea,”—but thus began a struggle to secure permission from multiple levels of government for their every move on site.
With relentless commitment, Corkery and the paddling club dealt with lawyers, regional officials, federal bodies, construction companies and a carnival of other interested parties. The once makeshift course became a slalom success story.
Contaminated soil was removed from the site and the banks were stabilized. Some companies even donated truckloads of cement to build more stable whitewater obstacles.
The Pumphouse now attracts Olympic athletes like Sarah Boudens, James Cartwright and Michael Taylor. It was the site of the Canadian Whitewater Championships in 2000. The River Runners run kayaking camps for youth during the summer with, true to their humble beginnings, shipping containers on the banks as their change rooms and gear storage—they’re awaiting approval to add a proper building.
Every year the club puts on a race for kids. To participate, contenders each ante up a plate of cookies—winner takes all. Hastings heads to the Pumphouse to race the kids, many of whom he knows by name, hopping into a C2 and putting it all on the line for a glorified cookie medallion. Eager young paddlers seek tips and pointers as they bump boats on the same course as the Olympic contender.
This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2015 issue of Rapid Magazine.
Subscribe to Paddling Magazine and get 25 years of digital magazine archives including our legacy titles: Rapid, Adventure Kayak and Canoeroots.
ELWHA BE FREE: Painted in 1987, the iconic crack on the Glines Canyon Dam was a cry to set the river free. The dam was demolished in 2014. | Feature photo: Mikal Jakubal
As decades-old debates about the costs and benefits of America’s massive dams drag on, river advocates are quietly clearing smaller clogs—and the combined impact of removing little dams is making a big difference.
To river lovers, Glen Canyon Dam is the Death Star and Voldemort combined. Blocking the Colorado River in Northern Arizona, it stands 750 feet tall and a third of a mile wide, and drowned 186 miles of Glen Canyon, along with 96 side canyons. When the dam was completed in 1966, it transformed the Colorado through the Grand Canyon from a wild flood-prone, sediment laden desert river into a clear, cold, engineered flow, changing beaches, river running and river ecology.
An aerial view of the Glen Canyon Dam in northern Arizona. | Photo: John Gibbons/Unsplash
Glen Canyon Dam has been in the crosshairs of river lovers for 50 years, inspiring periodic dreams of removal and the occasional short-lived public debate when parts of Glen Canyon emerge from Lake Powell during droughts.
It’s not the only hydroelectric establishment to fall under scrutiny. Four dams on southeastern Washington’s lower Snake River: Little Goose, Lower Monumental, Lower Granite and Ice Harbor, have also been a target of river advocates since Snake River salmon were listed under the Endangered Species Act in the 1990s.
Massive dam projects like these make headlines, but they also obscure key facts about rivers and dams. For every large federal dam like Glen Canyon or Lower Granite, there are thousands of minor ones: nearly 80,000 small dams restrict the rivers of the U.S. and while lawsuits about the Snake River dams drag into their third decade, river lovers have been quietly clearing smaller clogs.
Reframing the dam debate
The Elwha and Glines Canyon dams in Olympic National Park were removed between 2011 and 2014, freeing one of the Northwest’s best salmon rivers. The Condit Dam on the White Salmon River in Washington was breached in 2011 and at 125 feet tall and 470 feet wide, it is the largest dam ever removed. Compared to its larger Glen Canyon-style cousins, however, it is still considered a small dam on a tiny tributary.
Removing modest dams like Condit, Elwha and Glines Canyon has reframed the dam removal debate from large federal dams to smaller river obstacles.
“It’s easy to focus on the big dams, but the combined impact of many small dams can be much larger,” says Brian Graber, director of river restoration at American Rivers. “They block fish passage. They create shallow impoundments that warm up and reduce oxygen more than a big reservoir.” Small dams can also divert most of a river out from its bed, leading to severely dewatered stretches. “The large dams become the story, but few people realize that 72 dams were removed last year alone,” Graber says.
When sediment has accumulated behind a dam for decades, there’s the question of what will happen when the river is set free. | Photo: iStock
Most small dams were built between the 1800s and the 1960s, and they’re showing their age. Some are unsafe, and owners are finding the cost of repairs and upgrades exceeds the small amount of power they generate. In many cases, they generate none at all. Faced with these economics, removing old dams can be smart for the bottom line of the power companies, irrigators and government agencies that own most of the nation’s small dams—and smart for the river.
Dam building followed settlement, meaning dams in eastern North America are typically older than those in the West, and safety problems are more severe. In 2005, the town of Taunton, Massachusetts, was evacuated after the wooden Whittenton Pond Dam, built in 1832, buckled and nearly failed.
“A lot of funding comes from fisheries, but a lot of the impetus for removing small dams comes from public safety,” says Graber.
According to Graber, most dam safety offices around the country are badly understaffed, and they can’t keep up with the inspections of hundreds or thousands of aging dams. This creates an incentive to remove small dams rather than have them decay and risk collapse.
Dam removal remains complicated and contested
While small dam removal projects don’t take the time and money of larger-scale projects, they can still be rife with opposition and obstacles that river advocates must work hard to overcome.
When a dam dates back to the early 20th century, there’s no public memory of a free-flowing river. “People will associate a place with a pond or lake, and change itself is always difficult,” says Kevin Colburn of American Whitewater.
“You’ll have people who like fishing for pond fish rather than river fish,” Graber adds. “I can’t say that what I like is better than what you like, but removing these dams is better for the river and public safety.” Listening to those concerns can help mend fences between people who might see themselves on opposite sides of the issue, such as longtime residents, landowners and out-of-town kayakers.
When you dam a river, along with stopping the natural flow of the water, you stop the natural flow of sediment. When sediment has accumulated behind a dam for decades, there’s the question of what will happen when the river is set free. Dam removals on the Sandy, White Salmon and Elwha rivers indicate that the sediment flushes downstream quickly. When the 45-foot Marmot Dam was removed from Oregon’s Sandy River in 2007, nearly a million cubic yards of sediment that had been accumulating for 90 years cleared itself in less than two years.
Although most rivers return to health rapidly of their own accord, public perception is still a challenge. “People will always have a fear that without the impoundment, there’s going to be a stinking mudflat for eternity,” says Graber. “We draw on other projects for examples of how the rivers restore themselves.”
On Washington’s Sullivan Creek, American Whitewater commissioned a landscape architect to create images of what the river might look like immediately after dam removal, five years and 10 years afterwards to help convince locals it wouldn’t be a mud pit.
ELWHA BE FREE: Painted in 1987, the iconic crack on the Glines Canyon Dam was a cry to set the river free. The dam was demolished in 2014. | Feature photo: Mikal Jakubal
Even when the process of agreeing to remove a dam is quick, the act of freeing the river often takes much longer. “We tell people to expect a three-year process for a typical small dam,” says Graber, who trains people to negotiate agreements, make removal and river restoration plans, raise money and manage dam removal projects. “The first year is for initial reconnaissance and fundraising. Year two is design, getting permits and more fundraising. Year three is actual removal.”
A three-year project involving permits, engineering, complex negotiations and raising seven- or eight-figure sums may seem beyond the staying power of even the most committed river paddlers. Understanding the many eddies and boils of dam removal, such as hydropower economics, dam relicensing and river ecology, can boggle the mind. That’s where more formal river organizations come in. Local river advocates often turn to established organizations, such as watershed councils and national groups like American Whitewater and American Rivers, for help. They have staff that know the warp and weft of dam removal and fundraising, are in it for the long haul, and can draw on experience from other successful removals across the country. Once federal agencies, pubic safety and dam owners are all on the same side, the question often becomes about how, not if, which removes the acrimony that often swirls around river issues.
Setting priorities for setting rivers free
With 80,000 small private dams dotting the country’s rivers, one of the hardest decisions is which dams to remove first. “There are two ways American Rivers tends to prioritize,” says Graber. One is to look at all the dams in a watershed, do a prioritization exercise with GIS, fish runs, habitat and recreational areas, and assess how many river miles each dam would open up if removed. “But that usually points to larger dams, which are generally still used for hydropower and will be more difficult to remove.”
“The question becomes about how, not if, which removes the acrimony that swirls around river issues.”
More often, Graber works with dam safety officers and fish biologists to identify smaller dams where owners are interested in removal. He tries to remove multiple dams on the same river whenever possible.
As paddlers, deciding which dams to target is often a much easier process—the ones in our watershed, the rivers we care about the most, and the ones that will have the most benefit for our local region.
Recovery proceeds quickly when dams are breached. Insects and fish usually return in months or a few years, and vegetation flourishes in the first growing season. Salmon touched the upper reaches of the Elwha mere months after the removal of Glines Canyon Dam. Herring returned to the Taunton River in Massachusetts the year after the dam was removed, migrating upriver for the first time since the War of 1812. On Oregon’s Sandy River, the run from Marmot Bridge to the old Marmot Dam site is now a continuous class III run with a class IV drop. Paddlers can routinely run the “Lower Lower White Salmon” from the former Northwestern Lake to the Columbia River, including a newly rediscovered gorge.
Like a river carving a canyon, removing a dam is about becoming a patient, steady, irresistible force. As Graber puts it, “The most important thing is not having skills in engineering or fisheries biology. It’s having persistence.”
5 success stories of small dam removals
1 Big Hungry Creek
North Carolina
“I got calls from boaters paddling the famous Green River Narrows, saying ‘the water in the Narrows is very muddy, what’s going on?’” says Kevin Colburn, Asheville resident and stewardship director for American Whitewater.
Colburn knew the sediment was from a bulldozer removing one of two dams on Big Hungry Creek, a tributary of the Green. Plans for removing a second are underway. “Big Hungry Creek is a warm-up for the Narrows. When you put in for the Narrows now, you put in at the Confluence of Big Hungry and the Green,” Colburn says. “Soon you’ll be able to put in on Big Hungry and float all the way to the Narrows instead of having to portage over an old dam.”
The dams hadn’t generated a single kilowatt of hydropower for nearly half a century. “The state asked, ‘Do these dams serve a purpose? Do they pose a risk?’” says Colburn. “When the answers were ‘no and yes,’ the state decided to remove them. American Whitewater didn’t suggest it—we wrote letters of support, and paddlers had been beating the drum.”
While bulldozers dismantle the lower dam, sediment moves downstream. “It’s a very high gradient system and the river will cut through the sediment like a hot knife through butter,” says Colburn. “It may change the rapids in the Narrows for a little while, making it more dynamic, a little more natural.”
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2 Pine Meadow Ranch Dam
Whychus Creek, Oregon
Whychus Creek, near the town of Sisters, flows into the Deschutes River. The Upper Deschutes Watershed Council has been working for years to restore some of Central Oregon’s best fish habitat. Salmon and steelhead were reintroduced in 2007—the first salmon in the river in 50 years. One of the obstacles was at Pine Meadow Ranch, a 200-acre farm that had been in the Sokol family for generations. The ranch had a six-foot-high concrete dam that blocked 13 miles of spawning habitat.
The dam was removed last fall.
“It literally took five years of kitchen table conversations with the family,” says Ryan Houston, the council’s executive director. “We talked about a range of ideas, and what worked was to remove the dam, relocate their diversion to another part of the creek where it wouldn’t require a dam, and to get fast-track approval from regulators to move the ranch’s irrigation water right.”
The dam removal also allowed the ranch to upgrade its irrigation system. “If they save 30 percent of their water, they can sell the remaining water right back to the creek and still irrigate the same amount of land,” says Houston. “It’s a clever way of being forward-thinking.”
Mirror Pond in downtown Bend, Oregon, is as iconic a feature as a town can have. Surrounded by parks, it reflects the 10,300-foot South Sister volcano and is on the label of Deschutes Brewery’s Mirror Pond Pale Ale, the best-selling beer for one of Oregon’s first microbreweries. It’s doubtful anyone alive today has seen the Deschutes River flow freely through downtown Bend.
The 12-foot Newport Avenue dam is leaking. Built in 1910, it no longer generates enough power to make it worth repairing, and Mirror Pond is slowly but surely filling with sediment. At first, two options threatened to divide the community: repair the dam and dredge the sediment, or restore a free-flowing river to downtown Bend. Many longtime residents were attached to Bend’s iconic viewshed and fought hard to keep the pond. Die-hard fishermen, environmentalists and those newer to town gravitated toward a free-flowing river.
In 2014, the volunteer-driven Bend Paddle Trail Alliance offered a third option. They proposed replacing the dam with inflatable bladders, like those installed in a whitewater park under construction, just upstream at the Old Mill. The plan would remove the dam, allowing trout to migrate, and maintain the visual landscape of the pond. It would also improve use for paddlers, put a trail next to the river and redevelop part of downtown Bend.
“It’s a compromise,” says Justin Rae, a board member of the Alliance. “It keeps the iconic view, allows fish passage and recreational use, and removes an industrial eyesore, but it does shrink the pond by about a quarter.”
While the hybrid option has gathered a lot of support, many questions still remain. Who will pay the bill? Will the design flush enough sediment?
“It’s a great vision. Cost, financing, schedules and design are critical details that will need vetting, and that will take time and work. We’re keeping the conversation at a high level right now, gathering community support and trying not to get into the weeds,” says Michael McLandress of the local chapter of Trout Unlimited and former Mirror Pond project manager. “Really great ideas need time to percolate before you dive into the details.”
4 Connecticut River
New Hampshire, Vermont & Massachusetts
The Connecticut River is heavily managed, with no less than five dam relicensings underway in the past year. “The dams on the Connecticut have substantially impaired whitewater paddling,” says Bob Nasdor of American Whitewater. “There could be miles-long runs, if not for the dams.” Some park ‘n’ play features still exist, but the whitewater features are dewatered by First Light and TransCanada hydropower operations.
According to Nasdor, this project is not about dam removal: it’s about securing flow releases for whitewater boating in key stretches like a 2.7-mile section at Turners Falls and a perfect skill development area at Bellows Falls.
American Whitewater has also proposed a whitewater park in the bypass reach below Bellows Falls dam. “It would be nice to talk about removing them,” says Nasdor. “But the goal now is to get enough flows for boating in the dewatered sections, and get rid of one obsolete low-head dam that limits recreation and damages habitat.”
American Whitewater, the Appalachian Mountain Club and New England FLOW have pushed for studies to determine release levels for whitewater boating from Wilder Dam, Bellows Falls and Turners Falls.
Follow the money: To keep the large Boundary Dam in operation, owner Seattle City Light helped fund the removal of Mill Pond Dam on Sullivan Creek. | Photo: Kevin Colburn
5 Mill Pond Dam
Sullivan Creek, Washington
The Mill Pond Dam in northeastern Washington’s Purcell Mountains hasn’t generated power since the ‘50s. Landslides repeatedly damaged the wooden diversion flume that brought water to the turbines. The potential for paddlers was enormous: an old powerhouse overlooks the last class IV rapid. “Someday it could make the ultimate riverside brew pub,” says Colburn.
What seemed like a slam-dunk ran into problems. The dam owner was the Pend-Oreille Public Utility Commission, a small utility with 8,500 rural ratepayers. Nobody wanted to saddle a tiny group of ratepayers in a town with a struggling economy with removal costs into the millions. And many local residents still wanted to save the pond, seeing the project as benefiting out-of-town kayakers.
The game changed when the river found a surprising partner: a dam owner that wanted to keep its dam operating. Seattle City Light was trying to relicense their Boundary Dam downstream, a 300-foot-tall major dam supplying over a third of Seattle’s electricity. Because of bull trout and cutthroat trout in the river system, Seattle City Light was required to do mitigation in the same river system and decided to help fund the removal of Mill Pond Dam. The project moved forward. “It isn’t like everyone is singing Kumbaya,” says Colburn. “Dam removals are about change, and it’s not without personal impacts.”
Removal is slated for 2018, and American Whitewater has pushed for local residents to be hired to do as much of the removal as possible.
Neil Schulman is a paddler, writer and longtime river advocate based in Portland, OR.
This article was first published in the Early Summer 2015 issue of Rapid Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.
ELWHA BE FREE: Painted in 1987, the iconic crack on the Glines Canyon Dam was a cry to set the river free. The dam was demolished in 2014. | Feature photo: Mikal Jakubal