Home Blog Page 52

You Don’t Have To Be An Expert Kayaker To Break A World Record

Dave Alley paddles the Murray River, setting a new speed record on Australia’s longest waterway
Dave Alley paddles the Murray River, setting a new speed record on Australia’s longest waterway. | Feature photo: Courtesy Dave Alley

Dave Alley had only 18 months of paddling experience when he climbed into his sleek and slender kayak on the Murray River last November and set out to challenge a 30-year-old speed record for paddling Australia’s longest waterway. Securing a new record would require Alley to paddle the 2,278-kilometer river that’s been compared to North America’s Mississippi in less than 16 days, six hours and 58 minutes. Thankfully, the 47-year-old paddler from Pottsville, New South Wales was no stranger to pushing his body to the limits.

You don’t have to be an expert kayaker to break a world record

map of Australia's Murray River
Australia’s Murray River. | Image: Historicair/Wikimedia Commons

“I’m drawn to leaving my comfort zone and challenging myself to try and achieve what otherwise seems impossible,” says Alley, who previously set and still holds speed records for cycling and running Australia’s full 13,383-kilometer perimeter in 2011 and 2015, respectively. “I thought I was happily retired from the ultra endurance game but was seeking a different form of training to mix things up with my general fitness program.”

Alley’s plans to paddle the Murray River originated with a suggestion from his wife.

“I had bought an expedition kayak and had hardly used it,” he says. “I live in a beautiful seaside village and my house is approximately 1.5 kilometers from the Pacific Ocean and a creek. I took the advice of my wife and took the kayak down to the creek with no set agenda other than to use the kayak as a form of training.”

Casual outings quickly turned into an obsession for Alley. “I quickly fell in love with kayaking, the feeling of being in the boat and the time on my own,” he says. “This turned into thoughts of another epic adventure and what I could do. I did some research and the idea of tackling Australia’s and one of the world’s longest rivers was born.”

Alley acknowledged his lack of paddling experience and sought to become “like a sponge” in fast-tracking his skills progression on the water, while also drawing from his previous endurance challenges.

Man paddles down Australia's Murray River as part of a speed record attempt
The record Dave needed to beat was 16 days, six hours and 58 minutes. | Photo: Courtesy Dave Alley

“At 47 years of age, no prior kayaking experience and having never been on the river was deemed by most as laughable,” he admits. “This record had been held for 30 years and all those who had previously attempted such a feat were seasoned, highly skilled and trained kayakers. I was effectively self-taught and it was a real process of trial and error.

“I used the same principles and process that were successful for me on the cycle and run. Essentially building distance over time while giving great thought preparation to the mountain of logistical work required. But it was a much shorter preparation for the kayak adventure. My thinking here was that I’m 47 years old and it’s now or never.”

The record attempt begins

On November 1, 2023, after driving three days to the Murray’s headwaters, Alley launched his custom-made, six-meter-long Fusion LR6 TK1 sea kayak and began his speed record attempt.

The epic started inauspiciously when Alley knocked his phone into the river. “I had downloaded audiobooks, podcasts, and music to keep me entertained and as a distraction only to have it gone,” he recalls. “It actually didn’t phase me. I just smiled and thought, this is what it is all about. Adapt and overcome.”

Greater concerns on day one of the trip included subzero temperatures, thick fog, low water and “a tough, technical section of river with multiple hazards,” Alley says. “In total, I capsized six or seven times throughout the record attempt due to fatigue, fallen trees and submerged objects.”

Low water levels throughout the trip meant he’d need to push extra hard to attain the record; especially considering when David Armytage made the fastest-known descent in 1993, he did so during a major flood. Add to this steady headwinds and temperatures ranging from minus three to 41 degrees Celcius, and it was clear Alley had his work cut out for him.

Alley’s six-man support team was integral to the expedition, allowing him to paddle up to 23 hours per day.

Dave Alley launches his kayak at night during a speed record attempt down the Murray River
A large part of expeditions like this is the mental aspect, in particular dealing with sleep deprivation. | Photo: Courtesy Dave Alley

“I had hallucinations and my expected pace was reduced significantly due to the low water and headwinds, which meant only one thing: if I wanted the record I had to forego sleep and keep paddling,” he says. “It was tough, but I knew it was possible. I only had to look at my crew members and what they were pushing themselves through to see me do the job to know quitting wasn’t an option. They motivated and inspired me.”

Through the hardships, a sense of satisfaction

Alley admits he missed the opportunity to take in the stark contrasts of plains and long stretches of sheer cliffs that make the Murray a world-class waterway. But when he finally reached the river mouth, just south of Adelaide, Alley succeeded in shaving nearly 20 hours off the previous record, with a final time of 15 days, 11 hours and 33 minutes.

Dave Alley and support team pose with his kayak after the record-setting trip
Dave with his support crew and custom kayak. | Photo: Courtesy Dave Alley

“The cycle, run and kayak were obviously different experiences due to being completely different sports,” says Alley. “However, dealing with the pain, sleep deprivation and having to get up day after day after day were similar experiences. Once you get through this and achieve your goal against all odds, you’re filled with a sense of deep satisfaction, pride and memories that I can’t put into words. I don’t do it for fame or fortune. I do it to prove an ordinary Aussie bloke can achieve big things through mental toughness.”

Dave Alley paddles the Murray River, setting a new speed record on Australia’s longest waterway. | Feature photo: Courtesy Dave Alley

 

Astral Buoyancy Co. Expands World’s First Bluesign Life Jacket Collection

 SEATTLE (January 10, 2024) — Since 2002, Astral has led the outdoor industry in designing high performing equipment with the priority of protecting soil and water resources through the production process. Today, Astral proudly unveils its latest innovation in performance and sustainability with the introduction of the YTV 2.0 – the fifth addition to Astral’s premier collection of life jackets that features a bluesign® approved 100% recycled polyester shell.

Astral’s collection is the first of its kind in the paddlesports industry to use bluesign® approved materials and marks a significant leap forward in eco-conscious design combining style, performance, and environmental responsibility. The YTV 2.0™ is a high mobility, low profile freestyle personal flotation device crafted from bluesign® approved, 100% recycled polyester, PVC-free Gaia and PE Foam. The YTV 2.0™ maintains the same low profile, proprietary Torso Lock™ architecture as its predecessor, the YTV™, while increasing the quantity and volume of pockets.

Designed for paddlesports enthusiasts seeking a blend of style, lightweight durability, and a ‘less is more’ ethos, the YTV 2.0™’s low-profile, minimalist design provides unparalleled freedom of movement. The smooth front ensures unimpeded transitions, enabling easy re-entry into a raft or onto a paddleboard. This expansion of Astral’s bluesign® life jacket collection perfectly blends the brand’s emphasis on removing toxic chemicals while enhancing performance.

“When it comes to water quality issues, paddlers are the “canary in the coal mine”. We feel, smell, and see when industry or agriculture is polluting water,” explains Philip Curry, Founder & CEO of Astral. “In our never ending quest to protect the maximum amount of soil and water, bluesign® is the trusted partner to help us ensure that the chemicals we use have the least possible impact on water quality.”

The YTV 2.0™ retails for $150, and is available now at astraldesigns.com and at participating retail partners. For additional information about Astral, please visit astraldesigns.com.

ABOUT ASTRAL

Established in 2002, Astral designs high performance wilderness equipment created in the least toxic, lowest impact ways. Built on decades of experience and experimentation, Astral has assembled athletes, artists, and craftspeople to build the cleanest, most beautiful, and highest performing gear. Astral has significantly reduced toxic PVC foam from the PFD industry, invented breathable life jackets, won awards for their paradigm changing footwear designs, and developed the stickiest rubber ever worn on wet rock. Visit www.astraldesigns.com for more information.

Melker of Sweden Annouces Partnership With PaperShell

In an inspiring move towards sustainable innovation, PaperShell (papershell.se) and Melker of Sweden (melkerofsweden.se) are thrilled to announce a groundbreaking partnership. As we move into the new year, this collaboration marks the start of a journey to challenge each other to redefine kayaking with a focus on environmental stewardship and cutting-edge design.
Photo Courtesy of Melker of Sweden
Photo Courtesy of Melker of Sweden

Melker of Sweden, known for its commitment to sustainable outdoor experiences, and PaperShell, a pioneer in eco-friendly material innovation, are joining forces to create a new era of kayaks. Drawing on PaperShell’s expertise in sustainable material technology and Melker’s design prowess, this partnership is dedicated to creating kayaks that are not only top-performing but also environmentally friendly. Our initial focus is on incorporating the material into smaller components of the existing kayak’s, with the ultimate goal of constructing the entire kayak using PaperShell.

“We are diversifying our kayak production by collaborating with PaperShell and their eco friendly material. Alongside continuing to produce our existing premium models using plant-based composites, a new model segment will now involve PaperShell. This shift represents our commitment to sustainable practices and reflects our collaboration with PaperShell, marking a major stride in our journey towards more environmentally-friendly kayak manufacturing. This partnership is a step towards realizing our dream of a completely sustainable kayak.”

Pelle Stafshede – CEO & Creative Director of Melker of Sweden.

Photo Courtesy of Melker of Sweden
Photo Courtesy of Melker of Sweden

The collaboration beginning with the production of vital components for Melker kayaks from January, is not only a significant move to broaden Melker of Swedens current product range but also a strategic effort to reach new target groups. This initiative goes beyond conventional manufacturing, representing a bold venture into the realm of sustainable outdoor equipment. By integrating PaperShell’s innovative materials into the kayaks, we are not only diversifying the offerings but also appealing to a wider audience, including environmentally-conscious consumers and enthusiasts of cutting-edge design, thereby reinforcing our commitment to environmental sustainability and innovative design. Our calculations show that transitioning to PaperShell will yield notable positive outcomes, both in terms of economic performance and in accelerating our shift to more sustainable materials.

“Kayaks are among the most beautiful products on the market. It’s the outdoor sports version of fine dining. It’s nature! Art & Science. Aesthetics sustainability in every sense. Pelle shared a vision of kayaking in northern parts of Norway where there are whales. In a kayak made of PaperShell produced in our highly automated lines. Do I share that dream? Hell yes!

Anders Breitholtz – CEO & founder of PaperShell.

Photo Courtesy of Melker of Sweden
Photo Courtesy of Melker of Sweden

With visions of kayaks gliding through serene waters, silhouetted against sunsets, embodying the perfect blend of nature and human ingenuity. This partnership goes beyond mere production – it’s about creating a legacy of sustainability and excellence in outdoor sports.

How PaperShell could be a better choice

PaperShell reverse engineering paper back into high tech 3D-wood components. 100% fossil carbon free. Storing atmospheric carbon in products instead of wasting it on single use items. Stronger than plastics, versatile like glass fibre and lighter than aluminium. Enabling companies to switch materials towards a circular bio economy. Where science meets art and finance supports Nature.

About Melker of Sweden

Founded in 2015, Melker of Sweden aims to revolutionize the Outdoor Hardware industry with a focus on balancing environmental ethics and economic viability. Our approach involves continuous innovation and sustainable practices, ensuring our products not only meet user needs but also contribute positively to the planet. Central to our ethos is the joy of working with like-minded partners, friends, and family, as we strive to create a legacy for future generations and a sustainable, impactful business.

www.melkerofsweden.se

About PaperShell

PaperShell is reverse engineering wood into high-tech 3D free-form components. It is stronger than plastics, as versatile as glass fiber, and lighter than aluminum. This enables partner companies to transition towards a circular bioeconomy, where science meets art and finance supports nature, aiming for carbon net zero and beyond.

www.papershell.se

Montgomery Whitewater Park to Host 2024 Canoe Slalom and Kayak Cross Olympic Team Trials

Montgomery Whitewater Park

Montgomery, Ala. – Jan 4, 2024 – Montgomery Whitewater Park, Alabama’s new, world-class outdoor adventure park and lifestyle destination, announced today that the American Canoe Association (ACA) has selected it to host the 2024 Canoe Slalom and Kayak Cross Olympic Team Trials on April 13 and 14, 2024. This is the first time Canoe Slalom and Kayak Cross will hold its Olympic Team Trials in the state of Alabama, and the first of two selection events to be held before the 2024 Paris Olympics.

Photo courtesy of Montgomery Whitewater Park

Known as an iconic Civil Rights destination and home to the internationally renowned Equal Justice Initiative’s Legacy Sites, which have drawn hundreds of thousands of visitors in recent years, Montgomery will now welcome some of the world’s best paddlesport athletes and become part of the Olympic story.

Montgomery Whitewater Park opened in July 2023 and hosted the ACA’s Age Group National Championships in Canoe Slalom and Kayak Cross. The facility is the newest and most advanced of only three Olympic-caliber pumped whitewater courses in America capable of hosting the highest-level international events and offering recreational kayaking, canoeing, rafting and instruction.

Canoe slalom is contested by two types of boat, canoes and kayaks. In canoe, a single-blade paddle is used by an athlete who is kneeling in their boat. In contrast, kayakers use a double-bladed paddle and are sitting. Canoe and kayak competitions are timed events where competitors navigate a whitewater course by passing through a combination of gates. Upstream gates are designated by the color red and downstream are green. Time penalties can be incurred for touching a gate (two seconds) and missing a gate (50 seconds).

Photo courtesy of Montgomery Whitewater Park

Kayak Cross is the latest addition to the Olympic Program and will debut in Paris. This exciting new Olympic event puts four kayakers in a head-to-head format, racing down a section of whitewater while negotiating several inflatable gates. The race starts with four kayaks on a ramp above the river. After launching 10 feet into the river, the athletes paddle around a series of red and green inflatable “gates” and complete a full kayak roll under a “roll zone” marker; the first boat to cross the finish line wins.

The Olympic Team Trials at Montgomery Whitewater Park will be open to the public and a schedule will be published when available at montgomerywhitewater.com, along with more information on the park and its other events. This will be the first of two team selection events with the second one taking place at RIVERSPORT in Oklahoma City, OK on April 26-28, 2024.

Photo courtesy of Montgomery Whitewater Park

About Montgomery Whitewater Park

Montgomery Whitewater Park is a 120-acre state-of-the-art recirculating whitewater park and outdoor adventure center located off I-65 in Montgomery, Alabama offering a variety of outdoor lifestyle activities both in and out of the water for all ages and skill levels. Developed and operated by Southern Whitewater Design Group for the Montgomery County Community Cooperative Group, this park was conceived and developed as a large-scale public-private investment to catalyze economic growth and provide health-focused recreation and employment opportunities. More information is available at Montgomerywhitewater.com.

 

High-Speed Drainage Ditch Boatercross (Video)

The Lions Bay drainage ditch in British Columbia has become infamous for the occasional high-speed kayaking video. A group of three kayakers upped the ludicrous ante in a head-to-head race down the concrete slide, as seen in this video shared by GoPro.

According to the GoPro post, Stu Telfer, Harrison Stacey, Jarrah Anderson and Chloe Pocock made the trip to the Lions Bay drainage ditch once some rain started coming down. They lowered their boats, positioned themselves at the edge, and went full send toward the Pacific Ocean. The fact all three made it to the bottom in one piece on this head-to-head race is a feat in and of itself.


Feature Image: GoPro // YouTube

How To Score A John Day River Permit And Plan The Ultimate Trip

canoeist with permit travels down the John Day River surrounded by massive striated rock cliffs
Feature photo: Austin Trigg

Standing on river left at Clarno Rapid, I watched the water tumble over a wide ledge, forming a hole that stretched from bank to bank. I was on a paddleboard mission down the Wild and Scenic John Day River, contemplating the risk and reward of running the rapid versus portaging. Clarno was the most significant drop near the start of the 70-mile trip.

Eventually, I walked back to my board and cranked down on the straps of my PFD. As I started downstream, my speed steadily increased, and my heart rate kept pace. I landed the drop facing upstream and stalled out in a micro eddy I hadn’t recognized from the scout. As I readied myself to start paddling again, the blade of my paddle caught the current, which unexpectedly jerked the T-grip toward my face, and before I knew it, I had clocked myself with a southpaw undercut to the jaw.

That was the extent of the carnage, though, because overall, the John Day from Clarno to Cottonwood is a mellow and inviting whitewater run. The river holds the longest stretch of free-flowing water west of the Rockies and is an Oregon Scenic Byway. One hundred forty-eight miles are designated Wild and Scenic and require a permit to float. The two most popular sections are the 70 miles between Clarno and Cottonwood and the 48-mile stretch from Service Creek to Clarno upstream. Both offer excellent fishing, pristine desert scenery, exceptional wildlife viewing, and an exceptional float for families, beginner boaters, paddleboarders and canoeists. As a classic Oregon River, though, the John Day has no issue attracting experienced boaters too.

view of the John Day River and its valley
Photo: Austin Trigg

Origin story

Geologically, the John Day landscape is dominated by flood basalts of every shape and geometry as old as 17 million years. Organ pipes, perfect columns, confused knots of horizontal and vertical buttresses in walled cross sections, and pilings of dismantled ridges are just a few of the shapes the basalt forms.

Deep canyons with alternating towering basalt mounds and angular talluse piles are the most incredible basalt formations. These sections resemble castle ruins or adobe cliffside homes. One could almost convince themselves they were viewing a piece of antiquity. The basalt fortresses also give way to rattlesnake formations—horizontal layer-cakes, climbing in distinguished black, red and orange strata that meet the sky on the horizon.

Basalt holds up strong through the erosion process, which manifests in the river profile as long meanders, horseshoe bends and gooseneck curves.

[ Plan your next Oregon paddling trip with the Paddling Trip Guide ]

In wider open sections of the river, basalt is blanketed in golden grasses. This arid, ponderosa pine savanna and grassland hosts juniper trees, occasional sage shrub-steppe, and the largest herd of bighorn sheep in Oregon.

Known to Chinook Native Americans as the Mah-Hah River, the John Day River is named for a member of the Pacific Fur Company’s Astoria Expedition who headed west from St. Louis five or so years after Lewis and Clark. In 1812, John Day and a hunting associate were stripped of their goods and supplies at the mouth of the John Day River in retaliation for the unrelated murder of a native person. Though little is known of Day, more natural features are named after him in Oregon than anyone from the same period.

How to score a John Day River permit and plan the ultimate trip

John Day River permits

Permits to float the John Day River anywhere in the 148 miles between Service Creek and Tumwater Falls are required year-round.

older man holds his kayak paddle aloft while paddling the John Day River
Photo: Oregon River Experiences

During the high visitor season from May through July, a limited number of permits are available through the Prineville District Bureau of Land Management. There are varying quotas for high-season day and overnight trips.

The river is divided into segments (segment map), and permits become available according to a published schedule. Fifty percent becomes available four months in advance and the remainder one month in advance. The first permit dates go on sale January 1. This differs from the lottery permit system used on popular river destinations like the Grand Canyon.

During the high season, from May into July, a recreation fee must be paid by each trip launching on the river. The recreation fee is $20 per overnight trip per group or $10 per one-day trip per group.

To apply for a permit, visit Recreation.gov.

[ Paddling Buyer’s Guide: View all whitewater & river running accessories ]

River access

There are two popular sections of the Wild and Scenic John Day River that most overnight trips are based around.

One is the 48-mile stretch from Service Creek to Clarno, which takes an average of three days.

The other is the 70-mile stretch from Clarno to Cottonwood, which takes an average of five days.

There are various access points within these stretches and both upstream and downstream of these sections. The segment map of the John Day River provides more info on the various segments and access points.

a family camps along the John Day River after receiving permits for a river trip
Photo: Mark Steudel

John Day River camping

Camping on the John Day River is dispersed and first-come, first-served.

If you start at Service Creek, camping at Cathedral Rock is a must. The wide-based basalt tower climbs to a point and resembles an old-world basilica. An easy walk to the top from camp is a fun evening adventure. I’ve even witnessed an engagement at the summit during more than one river trip.

John Day River season and flows

John Day flows are largely provided by snowmelt in spring and summer. Depending on the watercraft (raft, canoe, etc.), the river starts flowing inconsistently in February and more regularly in April and June, possibly into July. For the best fishing, anglers searching out summer steelhead visit the John Day from October to December. For non-native smallmouth bass, spring and summer are best. If you are flexible on watercraft, a trip can be manageable most of the year despite flows.

The BLM’s lowest recommended flow for the John Day is 300 CFS if you use an inflatable kayak. The lowest recommended flow for rafts is 1,000 CFS.

The USGS maintains a gauge used to observe the flows of the John Day River near John Day, Oregon.

woman kayaks in front of a rocky outcropping in Oregon
Photo: Oregon River Experiences

Points of interest

There are some unique sites to see in the John Day River region. In 1981, spiritual guru Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh relocated his ashram from India to Oregon near Antelope, Oregon, just 15 miles from the Clarno put-in. A documentary called Wild Wild Country debuted in 2018 on Netflix, detailing the conflict that arose with locals and how it became a national scandal.

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is a mixed sedimentary and igneous complex of rocks that houses a diversity of fossils tracking the mammalian expansion starting 63 million years ago. These fossil beds are one of the most comprehensive collections of specimens from this time period in the world. Monument sites are scattered throughout John Day Country, the closest to the River being the Painted Hills.

Riverside hiking is the most developed out of Cottonwood Canyon State Park, at the take-out of the lower 70-mile stretch. At the park, Pinnacles Trail and Lost Corral Trail are 4.3 miles in one direction and follow each side of the river downstream. The Hard Stone Trail traces the river for 1.5 miles upstream to a whirlpool. The state park also offers year-round camping, rustic cabins, mountain biking and extensive amenities.

John Day River shuttles

The distance and remote nature of many western rivers make it most efficient to hire a shuttle service to get vehicles from put-in to take-out. The John Day River is no exception. Service Creek Resort is a good option for hiring a shuttle company that provides service to every stretch of the John Day River.

Rafting outfitters

The John Day is an approachable river in terms of difficulty, but that doesn’t mean you have to handle it yourself. Skip searching for permit availability and have experienced guides handle the trip by using an experienced rafting outfitter on the John Day River, such as Oregon River Experiences.

John Day River maps and guides

The BLM provides a free guide to the entire Wild & Scenic John Day River that is available online.

Know before you go

Paddlers visiting the John Day River need to be sure they follow etiquette for camping and boating while taking a trip to the environmentally sensitive and popular recreation destination. Read the Boater Etiquette guide before departing for your trip to be sure you are fully prepared for an experience on the John Day.

Feature photo: Austin Trigg

 

Arctic Cowboys Face Charges In Canada

Arctic Cowboys kayain expedition through the Northwest Passage
The Arctic Cowboys at the beginning of their expedition. Feature Image: Arctic Cowboys

Following their historic completion of the Northwest Passage by human power alone, the expedition team known as the Arctic Cowboys find themselves in hot water.

According to news stories published by Nunatsiaq News and the CBC, the team members Edward “West” Hansen, Jeff Wueste, Eileen Visser and Mark Agnew each face 45 counts of charges against the Canada National Parks Act and Migratory Birds Convention Act.

Arctic Cowboys kayain expedition through the Northwest Passage
The Arctic Cowboys at the beginning of their expedition. Feature Image: Arctic Cowboys

The source of the legal trouble stems from the group’s time on Bylot Island at the beginning of their journey. Bylot Island is home to a Canadian Migratory Bird Sanctuary and a segment of Sirmilik National Park.

The CBC lists the alleged offences the Arctic Cowboys face as follows: Using public lands in a park contrary to the Canada National Parks Act; Possessing a firearm in a park contrary to National Parks Wildlife Regulations; Disturbing wildlife in a park contrary to the National Parks Wildlife Regulations; Unlawfully entering a park without registering as required by the superintendent, contrary to the National Parks General Regulations; Unlawfully entering a restricted area in a park, contrary to the National Parks General Regulations; and Camping on public land in a park contrary to the National Parks of Canada Camping Regulations.

An email from Parks Canada spokesperson Megan Hope to Nunatsiaq News states, “On Aug. 25, Parks Canada law enforcement assisted by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police arrested, interviewed and released a group of sea kayakers in Cambridge Bay, Nunavut.”

This means the Arctic Cowboys were arrested approximately 1,000 miles and over a month after departing Bylot Island. They were then permitted to continue with the completion of their expedition following their detainment in Cambridge Bay.

The allegations have since been laid as charges with Nunavut Courts, and a court date has been scheduled for Monday, January 8, 2024.

Paddling Magazine has not received comments on the case from expedition leader West Hansen. We will continue to monitor the proceedings.


Update: Sources report the judge has adjourned the case to March 4, 2024.

How To Score A San Juan River Permit And Plan The Ultimate Trip

two packrafters paddle down the sunny San Juan River on trip
Feature photo: Alex Hadik

The San Juan River holds a long-running record of drawing life to its waters within an extremely arid region of the Utah desert, and today you can add paddlers to the list.

The San Juan consistently supports year-round flow for boating. So obtaining a permit for a trip down the San Juan River, when others have run dry, is a small trifle rafters can appreciate. Various dams on the San Juan, like the Navajo Dam, have tamed seasonal fluctuations and provide consistent residential water for an environment sparse on H2O.

While the rapids on the San Juan River are comparatively mild when considering the roaring waves after its confluence with the Colorado River, the culture recorded in the numerous observable artifacts and the opportunity they provide visitors to time travel are incomparable to many other river experiences in the West. Seeing and experiencing the well-preserved remains of the mysterious Anasazi and their more recent descendants is a precious and invaluable peek into pre-history that is reason enough every paddler should consider a San Juan trip.

Origin story

The San Juan River is a major tributary of the Colorado River and forms one of the borders to Bears Ears National Monument. It’s fueled by snowmelt from the arid San Juan Mountains (part of the Rockies) and courses 383 miles before joining the Colorado. Along its reaches are outstanding examples of historic and natural wonders like petroglyphs, ruins, blooming cacti and stacked sandstone that make for some exhilarating jump rocks.

[ Plan your next Utah paddling trip with the Paddling Trip Guide ]

Traveling the San Juan River, rafters weave their way between curving sandstone canyon walls. Layer by layer, a maze of slot canyon labyrinths unfold. Each bend reveals a never-ending stratigraphy of red rocks, sandy beach campsites, heavenly waterfalls, and relics from ancient civilizations, like vertical Moki steps carved around 800 years ago.

Because the San Juan River holds many rich secrets to a 14,000-year human history and is not only located in a hotbed of world-renowned outdoor recreation, but also crosses the landscape in close proximity to sovereign Navajo Nation Reservation lands, permits and access to boating on the San Juan River can seem more highly regulated than other rivers one might have navigated.

rafters and canoers prepare to depart down Utah's San Juan River
Photo: Corryn Smith

How to score a San Juan River permit and plan the ultimate trip

San Juan River permits

To float the San Juan River between the points of Montezuma Creek and Clay Hills (102 miles) in Southeast Utah, a permit is required year-round. Permits are only issued through advance reservation requests and a preseason lottery process.

The peak season of the San Juan River from April 15 to July 15 requires entry in the annual lottery. This is when flows and weather are optimal for most users. You can register for the lottery from December 1 to January 31 through the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).

The process for obtaining a permit outside of the lottery season requires advanced registration through the Montevallo Bureau of Land Management San Juan River permit application guidelines.

The user fee to float the San Juan between Montezuma and Clay Hills for each trip depends on the stretch you plan to paddle, ranging between no fee and $30 per person.

San Juan River access

Most trips on the San Juan start at either Mexican Hat or Sand Island and end at Clay Hills.

The trip from Mexican Hat to Clay Hills is 57 miles and takes four to five days.

The stretch starting farther upstream from Sand Island to Clay Hills is 84 miles and takes six to seven days.

River trips on the San Juan can also start farther upstream in Montezuma Creek, making a trip up to 102 miles if you decide to travel all the way to Clay Hills. The Montezuma boat launch is an undeveloped site managed by the BLM and you will need to contact the Monticello Field Office to receive a permit. The Montezuma Creek launch is also within the Navajo Nation and if you plan to camp or hike in this initial stretch you will need to visit Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation for a permit.

man kayaks through rapids on a San Juan River trip
Photo: Alex Hadik

Notable rapids

The San Juan River is fairly mellow in terms of rapids compared to other multiday river trips in the West. For this reason, it makes a great inflatable kayak or paddleboarding trip. The most concerning rapids are Ross (class II) and Government (class III) between miles 63 and 64. A handful of miles above the Clay Hills take-out, shifting sandbars and afternoon winds often kick up.

a nighttime camp site along the San Juan River
Photo: Alex Hadik

Posting up for the night

Uniquely, camping along the San Juan River from Montezuma Creek to Clay Hills requires at least one campsite reservation, made when securing a permit. If one is not available, the permit will be revoked. Visitors may find San Juan River camping guidelines more stringent than on other rivers and should be sure to familiarize themselves with the regulations well in advance of their river trip. In addition, camping in cultural sites is prohibited including the Butler Wash Petroglyph site at mile 4.2. For further camping information see the Monticello Field Office Bureau of Land Management San Juan River Rules and Regulations fact sheet.

San Juan River flows

a paddler floats down the San Juan River in front of a towering cliff
Photo: Alex Hadik
Depending on the snowpack, April and June are hands down the best time of year to float the San Juan River. Ideally, the snowpack is larger and so are flows. Since flows can be a moving target for rivers fueled by runoff, the peak season can be too. The USGS flow gauge in Bluff is ideal for staying in the loop on San Juan River water levels. Be sure to select the cubic feet per second (cfs) tab for the graph view. According to American Whitewater, ideal flows are 500–8,000 cfs.

Points of interest

Although the novelty of being on any multiday river trip is enticing enough, in particular, the rock art, remnants of Puebloan cliff dwellings and warm water to swim in are attractive features of the San Juan River. River House, a site with architecture of cliff dwellings constructed of sandstone bricks and mud mortar and containing rooms with rounded walls, is a can’t-miss stop.

San Juan River shuttle

Like many western U.S. river trips, the most efficient way to set shuttle on the San Juan is to employ a shuttle service to take your vehicle from the top to the bottom. Wild Expeditions offers shuttle services for the various sections of the San Juan.

San Juan River maps

A river map and guide is a great way to plan and track your way down the San Juan River. The RiverMaps San Juan River Guidebook is an indispensable option now in its fourth edition.

Rafting outfitters

Even though the San Juan is an approachable river in terms of difficulty, going with a guided service is always a fantastic option to skip the lottery system or have a well-versed company handle everything. OARS is a well-known western outfitter and offers trips on multiple sections of the San Juan. Their guided trips cost up to $1,500 USD depending on your trip option.

Know before you go

Paddlers on the San Juan River are required to carry certain equipment. This includes equipment for camp and human waste. See the Monticello Field Office Bureau of Land Management San Juan River Rules and Regulations fact sheet for guidelines before making your trip out to the desert.

Beware: This is flash flood country, which is most common from July through August during the monsoon season. Keep an eye on dry washes, which are the former outlets of flash floods. The San Juan River can also carry one of the highest sediment loads in North America. Keep this in mind when swimming.

We know river time is best with furry friends, but no pets are allowed on the San Juan River. Service animals, as defined under the ADA, must be pre-authorized by the Monticello BLM River Office prior to arrival.

Before departing on your trip, be sure to brush up on best river behavior practices with the Cedar Mesa Visit with Respect guidelines and Leave No Trace principles.

Feature photo: Alex Hadik

 

Watershed Drybags Launches New Material Innovation and Colors

December 19, 2023 – Asheville, NC – Watershed Drybags, the Asheville, NC-based manufacturer of airtight, fully submersible, and waterproof drybags for all outdoor pursuits, unveiled a new material technology today that’s available on all of its recreational drybags. After two years of intensive development and an additional year of rigorous testing, Watershed is thrilled to introduce this innovative material, Kryptothane Plus, to its products. Also, for the first time in seven years, the brand is also introducing three new colors, safety orange, royal purple, and smoke green.

Kryptothane Plus represents a significant leap forward in durability, performance, and aesthetic appeal. The foundation of this cutting-edge material is an 840 denier nylon base fabric, chosen for its exceptional strength and resilience. Building upon this robust foundation, Watershed employs an advanced extrusion process on both sides, utilizing pigmented polyurethane. The result is a coating that not only boasts increased thickness but also exhibits enhanced resistance to UV rays to ensure longevity and reliability in the harshest outdoor environments. One of the standout features of Kryptothane Plus is its unique embossing process. Through the use of a specialized roller process, Watershed achieves a balanced, grippy coating that enhances the overall functionality of the material. This embossing not only contributes to improved grip but also adds a distinctive texture that sets Kryptothane Plus apart from other materials on the market.Watershed Chattooga Orange

“Founded on a mission to craft USA-made, durable, waterproof bags that protect and keep outdoor adventurers’ gear safe and dry, this material launch is a leap forward to ensure durability for all outdoor adventures,“ shared Eric Revels, CEO of Watershed. “This proprietary material recipe coupled with our new colors shows Watershed continues to innovate and keep up with athletes pushing boundaries.”

For more information on Watershed Drybags and the latest brand news, visit drybags.com or contact Mindy Smith at mindy@darbycommunications.com.

About Watershed Drybags

Born on the water in 1995, Asheville, NC-based Watershed Drybags is on a mission to design and manufacture USA-Made, 100% airtight, waterproof, and submersible bags that can withstand the harshest outdoor conditions. Watershed prioritizes building a range of recreational and tactical bags that are ideal for any type of outdoor pursuit. Learn more at www.drybags.com and follow on Instagram @watershed_drybags.

 

How To Score A Middle Fork Of The Salmon River Permit And Plan The Ultimate Trip

two rafters paddle down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River
Feature photo: John J. Webster // Visit Idaho

Some rapids sit front of mind for every boater who’s paddled the Middle Fork of the Salmon. Eli Kretzmann, 14-year professional river guide and trip leader for Boundary Expeditions on the Middle Fork, says even senior guides have been known to get the boater butterflies thinking about Velvet Falls.

“There is a good deal of anticipation while hurtling toward the nearly river-wide ledge,” says Kretzmann, noting Velvet Falls at high water is anything but velvety. “The ‘soft spot’ taken ever so slightly offline can be a violent endeavor even for a fully loaded gear boat. I once had two guests launch out of the front of my boat on this hit.”

One of the eight rivers designated in the original 1968 National Wild and Scenic legislation, the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in Idaho is internationally recognized as an outstanding wilderness and whitewater experience.

From the confluence of Marsh and Bear Valley Creeks to the confluence with the Main Salmon River, the Middle Fork spans 104 miles of river, the Frank Church Wilderness, and contains at least 100 action-packed mostly class III to IV+ rapids. Throw in an oasis of riverside hot springs in which to regale your crew with river tales, and you can forget the Grand Canyon. The Middle Fork is a whitewater paddler’s river trip.

two boats full of rafters paddle down the Middle Fork Idaho's Salmon River
Photo: John J. Webster // Visit Idaho

Score a Middle Fork of the Salmon River permit and plan the ultimate trip

May the odds be ever in your favor

A lottery process is used to award permits for trips departing between May 28 to September 3. To apply for a permit to boat the Middle Fork of the Salmon River during this time, submit your request through recreation.gov between December 1 and January 31. How are your odds of winning a permit in the lottery? Well, that depends on how many people apply for the permits available, but in 2021 the odds of winning one were less than 1%. If you do get a permit, you’ll be notified on February 14.

rafters look up a rocky waterfall on the Salmon River
Photo: Courtesy Boundary Expeditions

Outside of the lottery season, you can paddle the Middle Fork by obtaining a permit through a reservation system. If a permit is obtained, the Forest Service charges a $4 per-person, per-day user fee. The 100-mile trip takes an average of six days to complete.

Remember, because the Middle Fork flows and conditions can vary greatly from season to season and day to day, scoring a permit is not a guarantee your trip will happen. Natural events can dampen river access as well, such as landslides and wildfires.

The more you know about the Middle Fork

The Salmon River is the homeland and waterway of the Nimiipuu (Nez Perce), Pohogues (Shoshone-Bannock) and the Agaidika (Lemhi-Shoshone) Tribes.

The “River of No Return,” as the Middle Fork was coined in the early days of being explored by trappers, gold seekers and boat pilots, is named for the impossibility of returning wooden sweep boats upriver from where they terminate their journey. Instead, boats were disassembled and sold for lumber.

The unique design and functionality of sweep boats, specific to the Middle Fork region is particularly captivating to outsiders who journey down this river. This boat was originally borrowed from the Mississippi River and evolved for use on the Middle Fork. The large boat’s ability to float relatively high on the river’s surface and distribute the weight of cargo, made it flourish during a time when heavy mining equipment and homesteading supplies were needed on remote stretches of the Salmon River. At the same time, the surface area, cumbersome sweep arms in the front and back of the craft, combined with its rareness, make it a challenge for boat pilots to learn. Many have tried, and many have wrecked. Sweepboat disaster stories are traded like currency in the region.

rafters paddle through whitewater on the Salmon River
Photo: Courtesy Boundary Expeditions

Notable rapids

What makes the rapids on the Middle Fork so challenging isn’t just their whitewater classification. Because flows vary drastically on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River throughout a single season, the rapids will likely look extraordinarily different during each trip down the river. To add insult to injury, the flow output on the Middle Fork is typically measured in feet, read from a man-made painted measuring stick at Middle Fork Lodge (33 miles into the trip). While this can be translated to CFS, the best way to fit in with locals is to memorize the units in feet so as to speak the same language. Here’s an example of the cumulative 2022 readings from Middle Fork Lodge, measured in feet.

Like Velvet Falls, at high water (starting at 4.5 to 5 feet) Kretzmann considers Pistol Creek rapid a butterfly maker. “A rocketing constriction between two cliff walls, I still haven’t decided if the scout is more helpful or if it just causes more jitters. But at almost any time of year taking advantage of the scout is a wise move for first-time Middle Forkers,” advises Kretzmann.

Also at high water, Kretzmann finds Rubber’s true colors show (between 5.5 and 4.5 feet). “Rubber is one of those rapids that incites pure adrenaline, but by the time August comes around [low water season] it’s embarrassing to even call it a rapid. At flows over 6 feet it tends to soften. In its prime, gear-boat flipping laterals collide from both sides, inducing sweaty-palmed indecision.”

Boat ramp etiquette

a person hikes past a waterfall under a rocky arch along the Middle Fork of the Salmon River
Photo: John J. Webster // Visit Idaho

Because of high traffic at launch sites, here’s a word from the wise al la Kretzmann on boat ramp etiquette: “Understandably, different states and different rivers have different boat ramp dynamics, but here on the Middle Fork, it’s common courtesy to be quick, nimble, and flexible at the boat ramp.”

This advice also reflects certain unique and probably unfamiliar aspects of launching on the Middle Fork for most boaters. For example, at Indian Creek launch, the only alternative launch site if Boundary Creek can not be used, gear and people have to be flown in. And the ramp is a long wooden sled track. When water is low, the bottom of this ramp is not water but an exposed river bed. Boats must be carried, fully weighted to the river shoreline, however far it has receded. All this to say, pay attention and be swift under circumstances you may not be familiar with so everyone can launch on time.

The diplomatic practice of Middle Fork camping

Typically, on the Middle Fork, camp locations are assigned via round-robin selections at a 4:30 p.m. meeting the day before launch. Each permit group is randomly assigned a number and when a respective group’s number is called, they can select their top camp choice. Rounds will continue until camps are selected for all nights of each party’s trip. There is a somewhat detailed flow chart of how campsite round-robin assignments occur based on what launch sites are open. For complete details on Middle Fork campsite selection, see the Forest Service webpage.

When to go

Kretzmann thinks late May and early June are the best times to visit the Middle Fork for the whitewater and best “spring green.”

“By the end of June, the fish are typically biting more. July is family season with fun rapids and warm temperatures, which allow for swimming. For anglers, August is hopper season [slang for grasshopper]. Orange-bellied hoppers or stimulators for the win.”

three whitewater rafts portage past a rockfall and snag of deadfalls on the Middle Fork
Photo: Courtesy Boundary Expeditions

Outside of the lottery-awarded permit season, the Middle Fork of the Salmon River is generally experiencing its lowest flows of the year. The river also tends to experience its highest flows of the year just before the lottery-awarded permit season begins—due to melting snowpack. Weather outside of the lottery permit season can also be a gamble. Even May or October can pack snowfall and cold weather.

Soak in Middle Fork of the Salmon River hot springs

Being enveloped in epically wild scenery, animal encounters and picturesque waterfalls await around each bend. But the ultimate prize of the Middle Fork of the Salmon River is the riverside hot springs that steal visitors’ time and attention.

For an outstanding aerial view of the landscape, see Sunflower Hot Springs. For a magical and captivating hike-in soak spot, check out Sheepeater Hot Springs—where goats are also rumored to steep. Trail Flat, Loon Creek and Hospital Bar Hot Springs are also favorites which will heal and restore your weary bones right smack dab in the middle of your river trip.

Set a river shuttle

Most people running their own trip down the Middle Fork of the Salmon will hire a shuttle service to handle the logistics of getting their vehicles to takeout. Shuttle service operators on the Middle Fork and other Idaho rivers are available on the Idaho Outfitters & Guides Association site.

Middle Fork of the Salmon River flows

The USGS maintains an online gauge at the Middle Fork Lodge to provide up-to-date Middle Fork of the Salmon River flows.

Middle Fork of the Salmon River maps and guidebooks

Guides on the Middle Fork cite Matt Leidecker’s map, The Middle Fork of the Salmon River, A Comprehensive Guide – 5th edition as an invaluable map and guidebook. Pre-trip mandatory education includes reading River of No Return by Jerry Carrey & Cort Conely and watching the 1954 River of No Return major motion picture featuring Marilyn Monroe as rear sweep captain.

Commercial rafting companies

You can enjoy a trip down the Middle Fork without going it on your own. In fact, a guided trip is a great way to ensure a trip rather than betting on the lottery. Several rafting outfitters operate on this remote fork of the Salmon River and trips tend to cost between $3,000–4,000. A complete list can be found on the Idaho Outfitters & Guides Association site.

[ Plan your next Middle Fork of the Salmon River trip with the Paddling Trip Guide ]

Additional info to know before you go

Follow Leave No Trace principles on the Middle Fork. And remember before you get on the river you’ll need to have camp equipment required by the Forest Service. That includes a Idaho Invasive Species Sticker which can be obtained through Idaho Fish and Game.

Feature photo: John J. Webster // Visit Idaho