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How To Scout Surf For Kayaking

Kayaker in surf
Learn to assess beaches to determine where to land | Photo: Paul Villecourt

If you choose to paddle in exposed coastal areas, you’ll have little choice but to launch or land your kayak in a surf zone. Breaking surf represents one of the greatest challenges to any paddler. It’s vitally important to choose the right beach for prevailing conditions because surf is an incredibly dynamic and powerful environment that offers both amazing play possibilities and potentially devastating beat-downs.

To assess a beach landing, consider the size, direction and frequency of the swell, the slope and composition of the beach, the tide level, and local currents. The overall size of the waves is one very major concern. Sitting in a kayak, the top of most paddlers’ heads will be roughly one metre (three feet) from the surface of the water. With practice, breaking waves up to this height feel fairly manageable, but larger surf is far more intimidating and challenging.

Wave frequency will also have a profound effect on your surf experience. Waves come in “sets”—groups of similar-sized waves alternating with periods of relative calm. If waves are nicely spaced apart and there is a bit of a lull between sets, a paddler will have plenty of time to react to incoming waves. If waves are closely stacked and rolling relentlessly in one after the other, conditions will be far harder to manage.

The slope of the beach is also important. A long, evenly sloping beach will generate surf that builds gradually. Wave faces will tend to get steeper and break predictably, spilling from the crest of the wave. Waves are relatively forgiving on this type of beach.

Waves that crash very close to shore rather than farther out are one sign of a dangerously steep beach that will not be suitable for launching or landing. There is incredible power in these waves which jack up suddenly and collapse or “dump” with tremendous force, expending their energy in one explosive crash rather than breaking progressively as they head toward shore.

Of course it’s always preferable to land or surf at a nice sandy or pebbly beach. A rocky shoreline strewn with big logs and other debris will make getting in and out a lot more difficult and dangerous. Having said that, opting for a sandy beach being pummelled by violent surf instead of a sheltered rocky shoreline would be a serious mistake. The direction of the swell will determine which areas of shoreline will have the largest surf and which coastline features will provide shelter.

It’s also important to be aware of currents and tides. A change in tide height can seriously alter the character of a break—sharp rocks might become exposed or beaches that provide a safe landing at some tide levels may disappear altogether at others. Riptides are a hazard that forms when water that has been pushed up on a beach by breaking waves is pulled back out by gravity. Because waves continually push more water up the slope of the beach, there can be a lot of water searching for the quickest way out.

Rips are tricky to spot, but at any popular surf spot they are well known, so take the time to search out local knowledge. A river draining into the sea may generate a similar current.

To escape from a rip, paddle (or swim) perpendicular to the current— generally parallel to the shore—until you are out of the grip of the current and can start heading to shore. If you simply try to go straight in, you will be fighting the powerful current the whole way.

No landing or launch site is ever perfect. Sometimes landings are very difficult, but you can still strive to make the best choice from a less than ideal lot. The key is to carefully inventory conditions and choose the path and timing where the waves are consistently weakest and the terrain is the best for exiting or entering a kayak.

Towing The Line

Photo: Paul Villecourt
Use these tips when executing a tow

Sometimes the best way to assist another paddler is to give them a helping hand in the form of a tow. Towing another boat isn’t always part of a rescue scenario. You may decide to put a kayak under tow simply to help a tired paddler make headway against strong current or high winds. Towing is also a great way to deal with an injured or seasick paddler. Other times, a tow can be just the ticket for quickly extracting another kayaker from a dangerous situation.

The most basic towing formation is the in-line tow. In this system, the towing paddler simply clips a line to the bow of the boat to be towed, and then pulls it along behind their kayak. To effectively tow another kayak using an in-line tow, you will need some dedicated gear in the form of a towline. Towlines consist of a length of webbing or line with an attachment system at each end. Most towlines have a carabiner on one end, ideal for quickly clipping onto a kayak’s grab loop, and a quick-release belt or deck cleat on the leading end, designed to allow the rescuer to ditch the whole system with a simple flick of the wrist.

My favorite tow set-ups are those integrated into a PFD. With this approach, the tow system is always on your body, and not an extra bit of gear that you can forget or decide not to don. The PFD-mounted tow also keeps the quick-release buckle solidly fixed in one place where it is always within easy reach, while waist-worn tow belts tend to rotate on the torso, making it difficult to locate the quick-release buckle in an emergency.

Boat-mounted systems are the most comfortable for really long-distance tows because they are much easier on the towing paddler’s body—the kayak takes the strain rather than the rescuer. The leash portion of the tow system can be short or long. Short towlines or “cow tails,” around one to three metres long (three to 10 feet), are very quick to deploy but are only suited to very short distance tows as they usually result in frequent and potentially violent collisions between boats.

Long leashes, around ten to 15 metres (30 to 45 feet) long, are far better for towing over longer distances. For distance tows, it is important to have enough space between the lead boat and the one being towed to reduce the risk of collision, particularly in following seas when the towed boat can surf down a wave and into the lead kayak. Many tow systems also integrate some shock absorption into the system, often in the form of shock cord, that yields a much smoother tow with far less violent jerking or yanking transmitted down the line.

Towing is very physically taxing, and the decision to tow another kayak over a long distance should not be taken lightly. In rough conditions or when fighting current or wind, it is truly exhausting. Also be aware that deploying long towlines in breaking surf or powerful rapids should be strongly discouraged due to the risk of possible entanglement with the line.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak, Early Summer 2006. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Rock The Boat: Is Sea Kayaking Suffering?

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Is sea kayaking suffering from an in surge of rec boats?

These days sea kayaking in North America is in danger of being dumbed down by the emphasis on selling the largest number of cheap boats to the largest number of people. Some big companies have discovered that the money is in beach-toy “rec boats” rather than the more complex sea kayak. And sea kayaking is the loser.

Sea kayaking has been around in North America for about 100 years, but it was not until enthusiast paddlers got their business acts together in the late ’70s and early ’80s that it emerged from the clubs and became an industry profitable enough to employ people. The result was a dramatic increase in the quality and availability (and price) of kayaks and kayak accessories. There was a flourishing of books and magazines that spread the word and raised the level of the information pool—sea kayaking is after all an information-based activity.

During the ’90s some of the most successful companies were bought out by large corporations that attempted to manufacture and market kayaks like they were plastic garbage cans—cheap and nasty little boats with a minimum of finicky features such as bulkheads, hatches and deck lines. At first the specialty kayak retailers welcomed these rec boats, believing that it would be good to get more “bums in boats” and everything would grow from there.

But that has not happened.

Instead, many customers are being diverted into dead end boats unsuitable for more than mucking about off the beach. They do not learn about the sea or how to self rescue; they don’t do courses or buy the accessories which are a big part of the specialty retailer’s business. Meanwhile, the production and sale of well-made sea kayaks has fallen, and specialty stores are feeling the pressure from discount no-service sporting goods stores and big box stores.

What to do? We can learn something from the experience of paddlers on the other side of that big kayaking pond. The Japanese went about sea kayaking from quite a different direction. They started with the large corporations whose executives identified kayaking as the new trend in North America during the late ’80s. Companies whose real business was steel or carpets raced to buy up all the spare production they could find around the world. Glossy catalogues displayed pages of sea kayaks and department stores carried some of the best boats available.

Pretty soon the bubble burst in Japan and, disillusioned by the lack of profitability and the slow penetration of the activity into the general population, most of the big players got out of sea kayaking as fast as they got into it. During those initial years, however, some very determined paddlers got into the sport. A small number of specialty stores sprang up. When the boom faded away, they were there to pick up the pieces and nurture sea kayaking in much the same way that it grew in North America during the ’80s.

On a recent trip to Japan, I saw many causes for optimism. First, there was not a rec boat to be seen. There was a hunger for knowledge, particularly the details of seamanship. Many of the local paddlers had long international kayak trips to their credit and many were highly skilled. Small specialty stores offer lessons and tours to beginners. Local manufacturers are producing boats suited to the need of the customers. Sea kayaking in Japan has been reclaimed from big business by the kayakers and the future looks bright. In North America, we could take a lesson from the Japanese to get sea kayaking back on course. The best way to do this is to support full-service specialty stores since these are the resource centres for training the next generation of paddlers. Another way is to encourage our friends who show an interest in sea kayaking to pay the extra money to get a seaworthy kayak, then learn the seamanship skills relevant to the trips they dream of.

I’m not suggesting that there is no place for rec boats, only that this is a different activity entirely. Sea kayaking is based upon knowledge and the seaworthiness of both our skills and our equipment.

John Dowd is one of the founders of the sea kayaking industry and the author of the book Sea Kayaking.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak, Fall 2006. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Daily Photo: Cool Off

Photo: Nashville Motion
Kayaks

Where’s your favorite place to jump out of your boat and cool down? 

This photo was taken at Fontana Lake in the Smoky Mountains by Nashville Motion. Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo

Editorial: How To Be The Best Paddler

Photo: Michael Neuman
Whitewater kayaking.

Bill Joy, the cofounder of Sun Microsystems and writer of much of today’s UNIX (the operating system behind the Apple laptop I’m typing on), logged 10,000 hours of programming at the University of Michigan Computer Centre.

“Bill Joy was brilliant. He wanted to learn. That was a big part of it. But before he could become an expert, someone had to give him the opportunity to learn how to be an expert,” writes Malcolm Gladwell. Learning how to be an expert takes time. According to Gladwell’s latest best-selling book about success, Outliers, 10,000 hours is pretty much what it takes to be really, really, really good at anything.

Bill Gates logged 10,000 hours’ programming time long before anyone else had a computer. The Mother’s Club in his Seattle private school raised money and purchased a time-sharing computer terminal for his school’s computer club. Big deal, you say? For a nerdy eighth grader in 1968, it was a big deal.

While still in high school the Beatles gigged strip clubs in Hamburg where they played non-stop seven-hour shows, seven days a week.

In total they played 270 shows in a year and a half—more than most bands in their entire rock and roll careers. The youngsters from Liverpool had played 10,000 hours of live shows before they walked onto The Ed Sullivan Show.

There is a certain amount of talent required to be good at something, but at the highest levels the ones at the very top are the ones who worked much, much harder than everyone else. It doesn’t matter if we are talking about computer programmers, pop musicians or even whitewater paddlers.

In the rafting staff cabin next to mine lived a young and athletic paddler named Billy Harris. It was the summer of the Perception Whip-it; we think it was ’93, but neither of us can remember for sure.

Billy spent the next six years chasing swimmers down the Ottawa and guiding and teaching kayaking in Nepal, Taiwan, New Zealand, Costa Rica and Ecuador. He’s trained winters in Australia and travelled the U.S. freestyle circuit. These days Billy spends 300 days a year on the water and is training for the 2009 World Freestyle Championships. Now in his mid-thirties, he still paddles two to four hours a day, five to six days a week, not to mention five days a week at the gym. He is unquestionably one of freestyle paddling’s most elite athletes. He’s talented for sure, but Gladwell’s 10,000 Hour Rule would suggest that his real greatness has come because Billy has worked harder than everyone else.

Ten thousand hours of paddling to a guy with an office job looks like this. At an average of two eight-hour paddling days every weekend for the four summer months—so 32 days, 256 hours per year—it would take 39 years to complete a 10,000-hour paddling log. If you started paddling at 20 years old, like me, you’ll be as good as Billy Harris when you’re 59.

Humbling.

And so, a little over halfway to being really good, I sit at my UNIX-based MacBook typing into Gates’ Microsoft Word listening to The White Album, paying tribute to my friend and the man who taught me to surf, Billy Harris. To you boys I drink from a bottle of The Balvenie single malt scotch that, like you, took the time to become the very best.  

This article originally appeared in Rapid, Summer/Fall, 2009. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Flushed: Whitewater Zen

Photo: Ryan Creary.
Whitewater kayaking.

Why is kayaking so compelling? If I were to offer one reason, perhaps it’s because kayaking thrusts us directly into the forces of the natural world, serving up crux points of life in a primal form.

Merely paddling a boat down a river is exquisitely symbolic of grappling with life decisions. The river is a path that can have many possible outcomes, where the entire range of human experience can rise up in pure form—disaster and success, terror and ecstasy, chaos and calm.

Take the horizonline as one example.

When we come to even a small rapid, the river drops away and we can’t see where it goes. The river’s flow is literally the current of time into the future. At the horizonline we confront a fact about life in simple physical form—the unknown and threatening future just over brink. We can’t see it, but we must make a decision and commit to it.

Not knowing what is there, fear and doubt rise as our imagination spins out possibilities: flipping and swimming, broaching, washing into a hole or sieve, or just a simple thrashing. The horizonline presents us with a simple but universal life question: What lies ahead?

Everything about our next decision is important. Are we careful? Flippant? Aggressive? Experience teaches us skills for handling that critical moment, whether scouting, quickly seeing eddies and nabbing them, sensing the nature of the river from the geology, or heading into the unknown and weathering what’s there.

Throughout kayaking there are plenty more such situations, all of them ready metaphors for fundamental life decisions. A short list of what they teach us includes mindfulness of choice and action, flexibility under stress, dealing with challenge and fear, and flowing with what comes. Every one of these is a life lesson. Rivers teach them as fast as we can learn.

Consider mindfulness. A river moves ahead no matter what we do, jostling us constantly off balance, pushing us toward hazards and out of control. We have to be aware at each moment, because any lapse is instantly taken over by the river’s action. Safety comes from staying mindful.

One lesson always leads to another: as we get more skillful we find that mindfulness creates an acute sense of awareness and flow. While schools of meditation take years to teach this to devotees, the river shows it to everybody who enters. Zen is nothing esoteric. It is a simple experience that appears as the river teaches us how to flow with the water.

We progress from class I, grade after grade, until we realize there is no limit except our own appetite and ability to control the boat. Rivers continue far past anything we can do, so they provide endless stair stepping upward. Confronting each step is a new horizonline of challenge, commitment and resolution.

For all the kick ass fun, clawing romping rapids, and sun-shimmering days on the water, we are learning more than we know. I encourage you to think about the things that linger much deeper after you’ve put your paddle down.

 

Doug Ammons is the author of The Laugh of the Water Nymph and Whitewater Philosophy. He holds a PhD in psychology and has been confronting horizonlines for over 25 years.

This article originally appeared in Rapid, Spring 2012. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Eddyline Announces New Director of Sales

Photo: Eddyline
Eddyline Announces New Director of Sales
Eddyline Kayaks of Burlington, WA is pleased to announce the hiring of Tom Remsing to be their Director of Sales and Marketing. Tom has served as their representative in the Northeast for over 16 years, in addition to representing other canoe, kayak and SUP brands.

“I’m excited to be making the move from the Green Mountains of Vermont to the Skagit Valley in Washington”  Remsing said. “Being the leader in the manufacture of quality thermoformed kayaks, I believe Eddyline is poised for significant growth as we enter new markets in the coming years. I’m proud to have represented Eddyline all these years in the Northeast, and look forward to working with the very talented staff at the Eddyline factory.”

EDDYLINE KAYAKS  is a manufacturer of premier touring kayaks and paddles since 1971 with Legendary Designs by Tom Derrer. Eddyline pioneered Thermoform technology within the paddlesport industry to make the highest quality kayaks for sea kayaking, open water and recreational kayaking in an environmentally sound manner. Eddyline Kayaks continues to be family owned and operated, and are proudly handcrafted by American workers supporting the local economy.

 

Daily Photo: Open Water

Photo: Ontario Tourism
Kayaks

Where did you go paddling on the weekend? 

This photo was taken in Woodland Caribou Provincial Park and is courtesy Ontario Tourism.  Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo

Daily Photo: Sunset Paddle

Photo: Ontario Tourism
Kayaks

What’s your favorite time of day to get on the water? 

This photo was taken on Georgian Bay and is courtesy Ontario Tourism.  Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo

A Living Paddle

Photo: Will Meadows
Maori Paddle

What do you look for in a paddle? You want it to be strong yet light. Beautiful, yet not dainty. Do you choose the ultra high-tech, or the natural and hand-made?

For many North Americans, a paddle is nothing more than a tool, but to the Maori of New Zealand, the paddle, or hoe, is a living spirit to be respected and partnered with. This past spring, I lived with Maori canoe builders, Hector Busby and Opo Harrison, and learned to carve traditional paddles. It utterly changed my outlook on the importance of the paddle.

Maori paddles, like all Maori carvings, have a life force, or mauri, which give it a spirit. Chiseled from the towering and sacred Kauri trees, the woodworker brings the paddle to life by putting his or her own life force into it. When I made paddles for my friends and family under watchful instruction, I felt that care seep into the work, giving each paddle a unique personality. So much more so once the eyes—made from local shellfish shells—were set. Then the paddle really came to life.

This life force radiates from carvings that the Maori have mastered. Many ceremonial paddles have faces carved into them, the blade representing a tongue. Carvers from various tribes across the islands have different symbols they use that are meaningful to them. A strict code of conduct reserved for sacred objects, tapu, is applied to Maori paddles.

Rule number one: never place the paddle tip on the ground (you wouldn’t put your tongue on the ground). Rule number two: never step over the paddle. Rule number three: treat it in the same manner you would treat an elder, or any other person for that matter. Plenty of young paddlers can be found doing push ups, atoning for accidental bumps and clinks of their paddles.

The do’s are more subtle than the don’ts. When it comes to carving a paddle, the do’s focus on learning discipline and carefully choosing the symbols that are meaningful to you. 

Next time you’re shopping for a new paddle, or perhaps getting ready to hand make your own, think of the Maori. Does your paddle feel right and have a character that you connect with? Does it have symbols that represent you? It’s your paddle that takes you to those special waters, one lick at a time. Make it count.

 

Will Meadows is a Watson Fellow traveling the world building traditional canoes with native masters. Follow his journey at www.humanitysvessel.com

 

This article first appeared in the June issue of Paddling Magazine, download it to your Apple or Android device or read online here