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Kootenay Lake Trip Guide: A Backyard Paddling Paradise

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Kootenay Karma: 4 Day Trip Guide to Kootenay Lake, BC

In the Kootenay region of Southeastern British Columbia, the lithic ramparts of the Rocky, Purcell and Selkirk mountains soak their feet in deep, cold lakes held fast by steeply treed slopes. Upper and Lower Arrow Lakes, Slocan Lake, Windermere Lake and dozens of smaller lakes and reservoirs fill nearly every valley. The greatest lake of all, the mother lake, is the Dark Queen herself—Kootenay Lake—the largest natural lake in southern B.C. Nearly 150 km long, this massive inland sea leaves a bow-and-arrow-shaped footprint on the region even larger than her massive blue figure on maps.

The Dark Queen of the Kootenays has it all: superlative fishing (including the largest rainbow trout in the world), soul-soothing mountain views, water pure enough to lift straight to your lips, and a rainbow of colorful communities where you can counterpose a day of paddling with an evening of live jazz or a night in a B&B.


The Dark Queen’s many moods

Nestled comfortably in the cradle of the Selkirk and Purcell mountains, Kootenay Lake has a wild side that belies her seemingly protected nature. Countless side drainages funnel glacier-born crosswinds onto the north-south oriented lake, resulting in exciting and dangerously turbulent waters. Stories abound of boaters drowning or disappearing into her icy depths. Paddlers and fishermen alike know to look to the horizon often and carefully, watching for the telltale black line that signals a change in the Dark Queen’s mood—for the worse.

The lake’s many moods have helped shape the culture of the villages anchored like floats on a fishing net around her perimeter. Each has more than its share of artisans, musicians and outdoor enthusiasts drawn to, and inspired by, the disposition of the Dark Queen.

On the outflow of the lake’s West Arm, the city of Nelson is known globally for its proximity to wilderness and for the quality and availability of some of the best “bud” B.C. has to offer. Not many 7,000-person towns have their own police force, or the staggering array of outlets for expendable income. High-end coffee shops, quality restaurants and trendy sporting goods stores line Baker Street in downtown Nelson, and most locals openly admit that it is income from the underground marijuana economy that is one of the critical drivers of this thriving social scene. Whatever the reason, paddlers can always find a good café, restaurant or live music in Nelson at the end of a great day on the water.


Loggers, orchards and 200 km of freshwater paddling

The small town of Creston lies not only at the far end of the South Arm, on the Kootenay River just before it enters the lake, but also at the polar opposite end of the socioeconomic spectrum from Nelson’s trendy, affluent scene. Steeped in a quaint 1950s air, the Creston Valley supports a unique mix of hard core loggers and fundamentalist right-wing Mormons from the nearby community of Bountiful. A surfeit of senior citizens meander the streets at a septuagenaric pace, and the town has the anachronistic air of a community clinging stubbornly to the last echoes of an unsustainable forest-based economy. Ironically, in the agricultural paradise of the Creston Valley—filled wall-to-wall with apple and cherry orchards, asparagus fields and blueberry patches—the town’s one great restaurant, the Other Side Café, is rarely open (update from 2020: the cafe is now permanently closed).

Between Nelson and Creston lies over 200 km of wild freshwater paddling through remote wilderness. White-sand beaches at Laib and Midge Creeks contrast with the steep granite bluffs that protect much of this backyard paddling paradise. An 8-km, bushy hike up Midge Creek north of Creston will lead you to some of the finest remaining Kootenay old growth forest, while the gruelling Lasca Creek and Mill Creek trails offer access to the alpine of West Arm Provincial Park to only the most committed hikers. Paddlers will share this wilderness landscape with some of the world’s last remaining endangered mountain caribou (as few as 60 of these shy, old growth–dependent ungulates remain in the heavily deforested south Kootenays), as well as the odd grizzly, wolf, secretive cougar—or even a wildly bearded and dread locked West Kootenay local.

At the far end of the northern reach, Kootenay Lake fills the front hards of Kaslo, Argenta and a handful of remote, independent communities. Up here the Dark Queen wears a different robe. Her mountain companions are steeper, higher and more rugged. Summits in neighbouring Goat Range Provincial Park and the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy reach skywards over 3,000 m above sea level—over 2,500 m above the lake. Mossy cliffs crowned with ponderosa pine and Douglas fir lean hundreds of feet over black water, while glacier-fed streams carve their way through steep rainforest valleys—a wild landscape that has attracted inhabitants with a spirit to match.


Home of the draft dodgers

In the late 1960s a wave of talented, intelligent Americans ran for the Canadian border with the Vietnam draft snarling and nipping at their heels. Many of these folks settled in the Kootenays, providing the basis for the communal, semi-pastoral and fiercely independent nature of these remote towns. Up here at the north end of Kootenay Lake, if you are wearing clothes on a lonely pebble beach, you are the weird one.

These expats from the Lower 48, where the grizzly has been wiped out of 98 percent of its historic range, found solace and inspiration in their wilderness surroundings. Many passionately led the fight for the myriad of protected areas in the surrounding mountains—West Arm, Kokanee Glacier, Goat Range, Kianuko, Stagleap, Bugaboo, Purcell Wilderness and a host of smaller provincial parks—that help to make Kootenay Lake one of the last, best freshwater wilderness paddling destinations on the planet. All that with access to a cappuccino and a gourmet restaurant meal, if that’s what suits your fancy.


Trip itinerary for Kootenay Lake

Hand-drawn illustration of Kootenay Lake area
X marks the spot. | Illustration by: Lorenzo del Bianco

If you have at least four days to explore Kootenay Lake, this route from Creston to Crawford Bay offers a little bit of everything the region is famous for. Start with a mandatory tour of the Columbia Brewery (home of the world-famous Kokanee glacier beer) in Creston, put in at the southern tip of Kootenay Lake, stop for a day to enjoy hiking among old growth forests and mountain ridges, then explore the communities of the east shore before paddling or shuttling back to your car.

Day 1

To reach the put-in at the Duck Lake dike, head west from Creston on Highway #3 across the Kootenay Valley. Head North on Lower Wyndell Road (you will need to turn left and go under an overpass). At kilometer 6.9, head left on Duck Lake Road for another 6.8 km. A lovely opening allows access to the East Channel of the Kootenay. From here paddle south (upstream) for 200 m to enter the current of the main river channel.

This first day of leisurely paddling carries you under the old railway lift bridge and out onto the Dark Queen herself. The nicest paddling, and camping, is along the west shore. Several small beaches provide camping, but the nicest spot by far is the sandy beaches of Next Creek—a B.C. Forest Service Recreation site with pit toilets and picnic tables.

Boats & Guides
Kaslo Kayaking (Kaslo)

kaslokayaking.com

Nelson Paddleboard & Kayak Rentals (Nelson)

nelsonpaddleboardandkayak.com

Inner Journeys
Yasodhara Ashram (Crawford Bay)

yasodhara.org

Environmental Info
Wildsight

wildsight.ca

Visitor’s Info
Kootenay Lake Chamber of Commerce

kootenaylake.bc.ca

Parks & Camping
BC Parks

bcparks.ca

Day 2

On the point north of Next Creek, look for pictograms left by the Ktunaxa First Nations over millennia. The 230-hectare Midge Creek Provincial Park has more than a kilometer of white-sand beach. Maintained tent sites here are available for $5 per person per night.

To go for a hike on Day 3, base yourself here for two nights. Alternately, head several kilometers north to Drewry Point Provincial Park for more spectacular, and free, camping. Both these parks are boat-access only, with pit toilets and wilderness campsites that are available on a first-come basis.

Day 3

For a day of hiking from Midge Creek, follow an old, overgrown mineral exploration road up the north bank of the creek through spectacular old growth ponderosa pine. For views down the lake, follow an obvious ridge upwards to the north, 1.6 km upstream. This ridge is crisscrossed by numerous game trails and offers a mix of dreadfully thick vegetation and lovely open rambling. Rugged, exceptionally committed hikers might make it 11 km upstream along the old road to find some of the finest original cedar and spruce old-growth forest left on Kootenay Lake. Cedars in this stand were saplings when Leif Ericson landed in North America in AD 1,000.

Note: past the end of the old road this route follows many old game trails and involves some route-finding and creek-crossing skills—not recommended for a leisurely sashay on a lazy afternoon.

Day 4

From Midge Creek or Drewry Point, cross the lake to explore the east shore communities of Twin Bays, Boswell, proudly metric-free Gray Creek, and Crawford Bay. Crawford Bay has a world-renowned collection of artisans and craftsmen—from glass blowers and ironsmiths to potters, weavers and broom-makers. Nearby, Yasodhara Ashram offers introspection in a stunning setting.

There are many camping options along the shore between Boswell and Gray Creek, and also a nice spot called Steep Beach on the west-facing shore of Pilot Point. At the end of your explorations, shuttle back to your vehicle—or hitchhike, an illegal yet thriving form of public transport in the Kootenays.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak‘s Summer 2007 issue. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here, or browse the archives here.


Dave Quinn is a freelance writer, photographer and guide based in Kimberley, B.C. 

The Dark Queen’s throne room. | Photo: Dave Quinn

Going Commando: Kayaking’s Man in Black

Photo: Nigel Foster
Going Commando: Kayaking's Man in Black

We began our trip as Debside invariably does: at the bus stop.

I followed as he dragged the black bag containing his folding kayak and paddling gear on its wheeled frame past the children’s playground to a fence overlooking Puget Sound. There we paused while he pulled out a coloured map.

“Here’s this put-in.” His finger identified our location. “At the bottom of this hill, there should be a footbridge.” Moving his finger to indicate another spot on the map where the road curved close to the water. “I thought this place might be good too but when I checked it out, there’s no way to get across the rail tracks. You have to think of that sort of thing when you choose put-ins. Bus routes….” He held up his timetable, and a map. “You don’t want to cross private land either—it would give kayakers a bad name—but there are often little public access places to the beach if you look for them.”

We followed the fence to a corner where wooded land dropped steeply to a creek, and then as we backtracked we ran into a dog walker who pointed us in a different direction, back to the road to cross the creek. There in the bushes we found the top of several steep flights of steps.

The thud of descending wheels gave way to their steady rumble as we crossed the caged walkway high above the rail tracks and rolling stock. As we spiraled down more steep steps toward the beach I reflected how awkward a carry this would be with a rigid kayak, even with two people, yet how comfortably Dubside dealt with it.

WHAT IS DUBSIDE?

definition of commando kayakingDubside’s lifestyle package began in Philadelphia. Into the reggae scene, which incidentally inspired his famed dreadlocks, he worked as a sound engineer for bands. Living inexpensively in a single room in a house with a shared bathroom, no outside yard space, no car, no vices, he found he needed to work no more than two or three days a week to cover his expenses. Valuing time over money, for most of each week he was free. In 1998 he discovered kayaking.

Canoeing as a kid introduced him to access to wildlife spots and special moments even in the middle of the city. It offered a different, magical perspective. But to take up kayaking now Dubside faced a radical change to his lifestyle. If he were to buy a kayak, a car to carry it with all its running expenses, and find a place to store his kayak, that could require a full-time job which would leave him little time to paddle. Then he ran into Ralph Diaz at the New York Kayak Company, a lifetime advocate of folding kayaks. Dubside was inspired to mail-order one, sight unseen.

Reaching the beach, Dubside looked around for a place to assemble his kayak.
“I try to find grass so I don’t get sand and stones inside the skin.” From his black package he unfolded a 16-foot-long black rubberized kayak skin and a pile of aluminum tubes and plastic frames. “When I got my first kayak it took me more than an hour to assemble it. Now it takes fifteen minutes.” My own first attempt to assemble a Feathercraft, out in the Queen Charlotte Islands, had been a puzzling experience. Setting out then on a multi-day camping trip rather than Dubside’s more usual day or night trip, I never did trim my time to less than an hour.

As Dubside inserted sections of frame and his kayak began to take shape, he continued, “Then there’s the safety aspect. I can paddle during the week when most people are at work, so I mostly went solo. My first kayak was so wide and stable most people said it wouldn’t capsize, but then I got a nar- rower one and I wanted to learn how to roll, for safety, especially as I often paddled in winter. Sometimes there was ice on the water. At the pool sessions the other paddlers were Greenland-style enthusiasts, so they taught me to use their paddles, and I got into the whole Greenland stuff, with its emphasis on a wide range of different rolls. The ropes tricks? That came as part of the same pack- age. Helps to keep you flexible and fit too!”

Too modest to volunteer his success in competition, Dubside neglected to add that he is regarded as one of the world’s most highly skilled performers of both Greenland rolls and of Greenland rope gymnastics. All this in so very few years, he says, because his lifestyle allows him so much time on the water.

DUBSIDE ON ACCESSORIZING

Dubside now peeled off the black boiler suit he’d worn on the bus to reveal a black drysuit underneath. He struggled into his neoprene tuilik. Sealed around his face so tightly, this combination of spray deck and anorak almost completely excludes water when he rolls.

He clipped his pump to his deck and a VHF radio to each shoulder. He laughed
as he explained how he used to give talks about radios. He bought several for the purpose, so now he often carries two, one for monitoring all channels, and the other on a fixed channel to listen for specific conversations. “If I hear ferry or tugboat captains warn of a kayaker in the channel I can call back and say it’s me. That makes everyone more comfortable.” He assembles his paddle and he’s about ready to go.

Paddling beside me across gentle waves, Dubside played at what he likes best, rolling. He surfaced each time with a big smile on his face admitting that it is difficult for him to stay upright. That’s not because he doesn’t have the skill to do so. “Even when I decide to stay dry for a day, I always end up rolling a few times because I enjoy it so much!”

STEALTH IS ESSENTIAL

As we cross the channel to Whidbey Island he points this way and that, identifying places where he knows he could put in or get out. Relatively new to the Northwest, he’s becoming familiar with it. In time he might know it as thoroughly as Philadelphia, where he would decide on the best access and egress points depending on the weather, or if it was daylight or not. There were some intimidating places he felt he could land and take apart his kayak hidden by the vegetation of the bank without attracting unwelcome attention. He could not do the same when launching because people would follow him into the bushes. He’d felt vulnerable surrounded by hostile kids with his kayak only part assembled.

“Stealth paddling! That’s what I often did in Philly!” I could understand why the coast guard and police so often challenged this figure clad completely in black as he crept around the channels at dusk and lurked in the bushes.

Perhaps here in the friendly Northwest, he can be more relaxed. “All the Whidbey Island transit buses offer rides for free, and the ferry doesn’t charge passengers on the way back off the island. So, depending on the weather, I could change my plans and go over there, or over there, and catch a bus and ferry back to the mainland to get my bus home. That flexibility offers me more safety, more options if conditions are not how I expected. It doesn’t matter where I come ashore; I just pack up my kayak, look up the bus routes and timetables and figure out a way home.”

Taking advantage of that flexibility and independence is the style of operation Dubside refers to as “commando kayaking.”

Asked what he would change in his lifestyle, if he could, Dubside considers for a while before answering. “Maybe better mass transit. Perhaps if I moved closer to Seattle where the buses would run later, I’d have more options.” We drift while a ferry crosses our path on its way to dock. “We could catch that one if we pulled out the stops,” he says, eyeing up the distance left to paddle and calculating the time it would take to fold his kayak and wheel it aboard. But neither of us feels the need to rush.

MAN WITH A MESSAGE

I ask if he preaches his lifestyle. “Not exactly. But you know, although a Feathercraft is an expensive bit of kit, you don’t have to have a lot of disposable income to enjoy paddling. If you don’t have a car, don’t have anywhere to store a kayak, don’t have much income, you can still do it. And that goes for adventure too. The media love to glorify the exotic places people go to paddle, but really, adventure can be anywhere and everywhere. You don’t have to go far to find it. Water freezes, there are eagles and wildlife dramas, you see tugboats and find out where they go, you get familiar with where the low-tide rocks are so you know where not to roll. There’s magic in the mist. Knowing an area intimately through different times of day, different tides and different sea- sons, with all the possible landing places and ways to get home from wherever you go—that’s something very special a tourist visiting an exotic location for a short time will never know.”

As he spoke, I was reminded of my early kayaking days. As a 16-year-old I walked my canvas kayak on a homemade trolley down two miles of winding hill
to the coast near Brighton each time I wanted to paddle. Less versatile than a kayak I could carry on the bus, the rigid kayak on wheels yet offered me independence, the chance to escape to the English Channel, the door to the adventure I am still having.

I have to ask one more question. What about a life partner? I knew his answer before he replied. Not married yet, still looking for that perfect kayak wife. I don’t know who she will be, but I can imagine how she will be.

As Dubside wheeled his anonymous black bag from the ferry, I reflected on what I saw, and on what I knew. I saw
an inconspicuous small figure in black dragging a bag, walking with the crowd up the landing ramp. I knew that particular one in the crowd as a committed kayaker, who tailored his life to fit his dream, not tailored his dream to fit his life. He is now producing instructional DVDs and booklets. He is invited to demonstrate and teach rolling at sea kayaking events. He is finding the way to do what he enjoys in a way that is in harmony with his ideals. I can relate to that.

It’s true, you don’t need much money. You just need to take the time.

Nigel Foster is an international figure in sea kayaking. 

This article on commando kayaking was published in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Rock the Boat: Caught Napping

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Rock the Boat: Caught Napping

It’s a lazy morning at home, and I’m planning a day trip. My wife is meeting one of her friends for shopping and coffee. Perfect! I’m cleared for paddling, as long as I’m back in time for dinner.

“Honey,” I call, “I’m just heading out for a paddle. I’m not sure when I’ll be back. It might be a long day.”

I start tossing gear into my duffel, throwing in my tent, sleeping bag, mattress, pillow, a novel, cookies, sandwiches and a thermos of hot chocolate.

Her brow knits as I continue to stuff in my PFD, spray skirt, fleece and jacket.

“Aren’t you taking an awful lot for a day trip?”

“Well, you can’t be too sure,” I say. “If I did get into nasty conditions, having camping gear would give me a huge safety advantage. I could wait things out until it was safe to proceed, even over- night. It would be foolhardy to take less. Having enough food is key too.” I hold her gaze steadily as I slip a large box of Turkish delight into the duffel.

She gives me a peck on the cheek. “I’m glad that you’re so safety conscious, sweetie.”

And just like that, I’m on my way.

What no one knows is that I’m not really going paddling, per se. I’m actually off to practice a revolutionary new take on kayak touring. It’s my own innovation that I call nautical napping.

AN INTRODUCTION TO NAUTICAL NAPPING

Here’s how nautical napping works: you head out for a day paddle. Since you’ll spend many hours out of the house, folks at home will naturally assume that you’re off being gnarly and adventurous, cranking out mile after mile. What nobody suspects is that you really only paddle for about an hour, heading to a favourite secluded spot.

Once at your site, you set up your tent, get out your sleeping bag, mattress and book, and burrow into your nest. Lie there soaking up the sounds of the shoreline. Eat a few bonbons and have a sip of hot chocolate. Sprawl out, hogging every inch of the bed, wiggle your toes and luxuriate.

Now, the key component of the nautical napping relaxation system: open your book and start reading until your eyelids become too heavy to hold open. And then—drop off to sleep. Fantastic!

It’s that simple—anyone can travel across water to breathtakingly beautiful locations, and fall asleep there. And this is all possible for just pennies per outing.

BEST DONE SOLO

I know what you’re thinking. You’re saying to yourself, “hey, I live in a city. Where can I go nautical napping?” The potential sites are many. You don’t have to limit yourself to areas that permit overnight camping, since you’ll only be there for a few hours. Any quiet spot by the water is perfect. Waterfront public parks in the city are prime locations. And nautical napping isn’t fair-weather dependent either; rainy days are ideal.

You may also be asking yourself, “Am I qualified to nap nautically?”

Friend, if you have a kayak and enjoy sleeping as much as I do, then the answer is yes! It’s child’s play—you’ll sleep like a baby.

Maybe you are worried about what people will think. But nobody will ever know—if you don’t tell them. You may even gain a psychological edge by leveraging their guilt.

Your spouse may feel sheepish if he or she has lazed around all day like some reprehensible sloth while you spent an active day outside. Get into the habit of being casually reticent and vague about the specifics of your journeys. People will start to assume you are just modest about your exploits and give up pressing you for details.

One thing to bear in mind is that nautical napping is best done solo for ultimate relaxation. You don’t want even a hint of anybody else’s agenda or schedule.

Once you get the hang of it, you can customize your nap- ping experience by bringing along extra comfort items, such as a teddy bear, your lucky pajama top, or an MP3 player with all the music that you aren’t allowed to play at home (Iron Butterfly, The Partridge Family, Wagner’s Ring Cycle).

When you awake from your nautical nap, pack up and head home refreshed. You can be confident that any telltale signs of drool will be mistaken for sea salt and that the pillow marks on your face will fade long before you walk through the door.

Alex Matthews is a passionate kayaker and has fallen asleep all over the world. If you happen to meet Alex in the field, please don’t wake him up. 

This article on napping on day trips was published in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Editorial: A Recipe for Time

Photo: Mike Brown/istock.com
Editorial: A Recipe for Time

There is a parcel of lake, visible from my front yard, that my paddle has never touched. This week I went there, and the experience gelled for me all the reasons why we’re focusing this issue on kayaking locally and reclaiming urban waters.

These days, kayak trips are getting shorter and shorter. Everybody who’s heard of speed dating or bought pre-washed salad mix knows that we have less free time than our grandparents’ generation. A big part of the reason is that we’ve spread ourselves thin; we spend too many hours on the move.

In her history of walking, Wanderlust, Rebecca Solnit explains: “Just as the increased speed of factory production did not decrease working hours, so the increased speed of transportation binds people to more diffuse locales rather than liberating them from travel time (many Californians, for example, now spend three or four hours driving to and from work each day).”

LESS TIME ON THE ROAD, MORE TIME ON THE WATER

For us kayakers, speeding long distances to get to postcard places not only discounts and dissolves the space in between them, it also kills time that we could be spending on the water. Our precious, endangered leisure time becomes road kill.

The good news is, we can slide up that slope. Take it from Dubside, the monomial paddler profiled by Nigel Foster in the Summer issue’s “Going Commando”. What may sound like a recipe for a landlocked life—owning no wheels besides the rollers on the kayak cart he totes on public transit—means less time working for The Man, and more time afloat on the backwaters of his hometown. Dubside is an alchemist, teaching us how to trans- form water into time.

Exploring locally is nothing new. Back when kayaks were still just for hunting, henry David Thoreau was curmudgeoning away about the same stuff in his bean patch in Massachusetts. “I have travelled a good deal in concord,” the thinker famously said, warming up to a Walden chapter of blabbity blah about inner journeys. Taken with a drop of saltwater, the man has a point. You don’t have to navel gaze; just turn your attention infield a bit.

DIP INTO FAMILIAR WATERS

Here at the editor’s desk, with digital dreams emailing in from everyplace, it’s too easy to fall for the long-distance outlook. Last year we got a chiding missive from one of our loyal subscribers, Eric Hockaday, who wrote, “I wish you wouldn’t send me articles or flyers advertising far away exotic places to kayak. It upsets me because I can’t begin to afford trips and vacations like that. I wish you would send me information about kayak trips here at home, here in Canada, especially British Columbia.” Eric will be happy to see this issue’s article about Kootenay Lake (“hippies, huckleberries and Beer”)—true backyard paddling for B.C. types, and stoke for the rest of you to find a local trip of your own.

If you think you’ve seen and done it all, try dipping into familiar waters by night, in the off-season, or some other creative way to gain a new perspective. After growing up restless in the middle of Toronto, I thought I knew the place and every way out of it. I’d left town a thousand times in every direction you can take a highway, but there was one angle I hadn’t tried: due south. I slipped off the beach one sunset, took a bearing for New York state or bust, and paddled straight out into the pure vertigo of Lake Ontario and sky. That shining smog-anchor they call the Golden horseshoe spread out behind me in the dark like the Milky Way, and when I turned around to paddle back, there was a side of my home I’d never seen.

This article on exploring your own backyard was published in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Boat Review: Dagger’s Agent

Photo: Neil Etienne
Boat Review: Dagger's Agent

Clearly Dagger intended the name of their new freestyle boat, the Agent, to play off James Bond or Mission Impossible. You know, the smart, witty, sexy, handle-anything types. In fact, James Bond creator Ian Fleming used the simplest, dullest, plainest-sounding name he could find; he wanted exotic things to happen to his character while remaining an anonymous, blunt instrument. With the inconspicuously named Dagger Agent in the hands of a pro kayaker, the same can be true.

One of the first things I was excited about was the fact this boat is available in three sizes—like the Kingpin and G-Force series of a few years ago—accommodating a great fit for a wider range of paddlers, most notably smaller and larger paddlers, like me.

I took some time finding where to set the seat. Too far back, the boat tends to wheelie and too far forward it ploughs, pushing you off of features. Getting it dialled in, I found in the Agent 6.4 I was riding nice and high and was able to tap into the river’s waves and reactionaries. In fact, of all the dedicated freestyle boats, the Agent is one of the best river runners, especially in big water.

Once on big waves you start to appreciate the refinements and finer details of the Agent—it is the best of the G-Force, Kingpin and Crazy 88 with more stern rocker. The double-release edge sits quite high and cushions moves where edges aren’t your friend, like spins and Helixes. The Crazy 88 was too eager  to carve and not stable enough. The G-Force was very stable, but was slower edge to edge. The Agent finds the balance of modern planing hull stability and ease of edging and carving.

With more abrupt kick rocker in the bow and especially the stern, the Agent taps into big air a bit differently. In my ‘88 I had to carve to get air, especially on smaller features. The Agent is all about bouncing and goes big with a butt bounce (and sometimes all by itself). This is especially nice on smaller features where you don’t have a fast green runway to get speed and allows you to go straight from one aerial move into the next without a drawn-out set up. With more rocker in the stern the Agent eases some of the heavier landings by keeping the edges out of the water and is far better for back surfing and backstabs.

Dagger’s designer Mark “Snowy” Robertson told Rapid that dynamic wave performance was an absolute must for the Agent. Then he moved to hole performance, tending toward volume aerial tricks rather than traditional slicey cartwheel moves.

Turns out this is a great combination. With volume extending to the bow and stern you get fantastic loops with an added bonus—room for toes and knees. Snap in the provided Overthruster by Immersion Research if you feel you need to.

The Agent 6.4, at six feet, four inches is still super easy to toss around in a hole. In fact, the added volume is better for cartwheeling because the Agent goes from end to end more slowly… so you can keep up.

Dagger’s new Agent can be as sexy and smooth as a young Sean Connery, but in the hands of weekend paddlers it is a completely different kind of agent. Its cover is more like a Hollywood agent, the kind that makes you feel comfortable and relaxed, props you up and looks after the finer details. This kind of Agent turns you into a star.

SPECS

Models: 6.0/6.2/6.4

Length: 6’/6’2”/6’4”

Width: 24”/25”/25.75”

Volume: 42/50/59 US gal

Weight:28.5/29.5/31.5 lbs

Outfitting: D-Bone welded in seat track; foam subframe; flipswitch backband; precision adjustable thigh braces; padded foam footbrace; multi-adjustable contoured hip pads; and Overthruster by IR

dagger.com

RPv9i3_cover.jpgThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great boat reviews, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here.

Boat Review: The 15.5 Sport by Delta Kayaks

Photo: Tim Shuff
Boat Review:The 15.5 Sport by Delta Kayaks

CONSPIRACY THEORISTS TAKE NOTE. Many people say there’s no money to be made in the kayak business. And yet a brand new company, Delta Kayaks has appeared out of nowhere, spread to retail shops across the continent and built its product line from zero to 13 models in a just couple of years. Weirder still, we hear that a high-powered politician, British Columbia premier Gordon Campbell, visited the Delta factory a few months ago and bought a fleet of kayaks for his family and friends. It’s likely no accident that Delta has the same name as an elite U.S. military special ops force.

SPECS
length: 15 ft 6 in (4.7 m)
width: 24.5 in (62 cm)
depth: 12.5 in (32 cm)
cockpit: 32.5 x 16.5 in (83 x 42 cm)
dry storage:224 litres (59 gallons)
weight: 48 lb (21.8 kg)
MSRP: $2,450 Cdn

For further proof that something funny’s going on, peek inside the hatches. In February, we reviewed the capacious Current Designs Titan, which has a whopping 220 litres of dry storage. The Delta 15.5 Sport, which is a good two feet shorter and three inches shallower, has a storage capacity of 224 litres. How is that possible? Well, it isn’t. And yet we saw for ourselves on a four-day trip that the Delta’s hatches are as big as they say. Furthermore, by our calculations, the 15.5’s shorter waterline and broad, buoyant ends should make it a bit slower than longer and narrower expedition kayaks, and yet it holds its own with longer boats. Very suspicious.

Delta has packed the good looks, speed, tracking, light weight and capacity of a full-size composite expedition boat into a rec- kayak package. All this in the best-looking thermoform plastic kayak we’ve seen. The advantage of thermoform is that it looks as good as fibreglass, yet is cheaper and often lighter. Although thermoform is inherently less rigid than composite or polyethylene, Delta uses stiffeners in the sides and decks to counteract the flex. Overall, we were impressed by the 15.5’s tracking and rock-solid initial stability. It’s not well suited to edging, but turns well with help from the paddle or rudder. There’s likely no better sit-in kayak for fishing, photography or building the confidence of a novice paddler, while also being suited to long trips.

Determined to blow the lid on Delta’s secrets, we spent several days camped out at the factory in Maple Ridge, B.C. We saw trucks pull into the compound and drive away loaded with candy-coloured kayaks. But in all that time, no workers ever came or left. The only signs of life were the tiny shadows dancing in the greenish glow of the frosted windows 24 hours a day, and the faint sound of singing.

Screen_Shot_2015-06-30_at_10.31.51_AM.pngSUPERNATURALLY COMFORTABLE

Delta’s seat is exceptionally comfortable. Many seat and backband adjustments make it easy to fine- tune. For example, smaller paddlers can slide the seat forward to snug up to the thigh braces. The rudder has an easy-to-reach control cord that runs stealthily beneath the rear deck.

BUILT FOR BALLET DANCERS

A pronounced V-bottom provides great tracking. Another result of the unique shape is that the pivot- ing foot braces are mounted more on the bottom of the hull than the sides—good for people who like to have their feet angled outwards. Paddlers with very large feet will fit best in the one-inch-deeper expedition version.

PORTAL TO THE FIFTH DIMENSION

We loved the Delta’s beautiful glossy finish, recessed deck fittings and generous front deck bungies that run in straight parallel lines for tying down the maximum amount of gear. The plastic and neoprene hatch covers make it easy to access the storage space, which is so big that we’re sure it extends into the fifth dimension.

Boat Review: The Ikkuma 17 by Seda

Photo Dugald Nasmith
Boat Review: The Ikkuma 17 by Seda

Josef Sedivec founded Seda Kayaks in 1969. Before leaving his native Czechoslovakia for California, Sedivec was a member of the Czech national Whitewater Team, and in the early days, Seda’s roots were in whitewater. so although Sedivec sold the company in 2005, it’s fitting that one of the company’s newest sea kayaks has a link to whitewater too.

The Ikkuma 17 is the product of freelance designers stewart Mounsey and James Mole—both highly talented whitewater paddlers. Mounsey was also part of the design team at confluence Watersports, the parent company of Wilderness Systems and Wave Sport Kayaks.

The Ikkuma is billed as a “Greenland style” kayak, but it owes a nod to the British tradition too, having graceful upswept ends, three rubber hatches (including optional day hatch), full perimeter lines and a drop skeg.

General fit and finish of Seda boats used to be a little on the “utilitarian” side, but have greatly improved over the last few years. The Ikkuma is an attractive kayak with a very polished appearance and slick modern lines. our Kevlar test boat weighed just under a svelte 43 pounds.

The Ikkuma’s cockpit is quite large and it’s easy to drop your butt into the seat and then pull your legs in afterwards. While my meager 150-pound frame found the seat overly large, bigger paddlers really liked the comfort. I also wanted more aggressive thigh hooks for my skinny legs, but again the bigger guys enjoyed the fit and were able to grip the boat effectively.

The hull has a very distinct hard chine that runs most of the length of the kayak, and the bottom of the boat is quite flat mid-ship. initial stability is good and it takes a little bit of effort for a smaller paddler to move the kayak off of an even keel and put the boat on edge. once on edge, the boat is stable; when edged really aggressively, the Ikkuma’s stern will break free of the water and skid out for super-tight turns.

The Ikkuma nicely balances tracking and manoeuvrability, as well as sportiness and practicality. There’s enough volume to comfortably carry gear for a week-long trip, but not so much that it loses its playful feel. The Ikkuma is best suited to paddlers in the range of 180 pounds and up who are looking for a sporty “do-everything” sea kayak.

Screen_Shot_2015-06-30_at_10.24.49_AM.png

RATCHET POWER

The NSI backband is cushy and provides very comfortable and effective support, adjusting easily via two “snowboard boot style” ratchets. Be warned, however, that ratchet mechanisms tend to corrode in the marine environment, so be sure to rinse thoroughly with fresh water after use in the ocean.

SKEG ENVY

The skeg blade is a very slick-looking carbon fibre unit that is foil-shaped rather than simply being manufactured from flat metal stock. The skeg worked flawlessly throughout testing. And besides, it’s carbon! Cool.

WHICH WAY IS UP?

The skeg control works the opposite way to most. Pushing the slider forward lowers the skeg, while pulling the slider back retracts it. This is because the slider’s cable is attached at the top of the leading edge of the skeg, which keeps the cable under tension while putting the skeg down—a clever approach that should eliminate the potential of kinking the cable when trying to drop a skeg jammed by pebbles.

SPECS

length: 17 ft (5.2 m)
width: 22 in (56 cm)
depth: 11.5 in (29 cm)
cockpit: 33x17in(84x 43 cm) capacity: 350 lb (159 kg)
weight: 50 lb fibreglass (22.7 kg) 44 lb Kevlar (20 kg)
MSRP: $2,640 US fibreglass, $3,240 US Kevlar
Optional day hatch: $200 US

akv7i3cover.jpgThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine. For more boat reviews, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

History of the Worlds

Photo: Rapid Staff
History of the Worlds

1991: Bitches Tidal Bore, Wales, England

Conception: The first World Rodeo Championship is the brainchild of Andy Middleton, who sketches out the event on a road trip across Northern Europe to paddle in the first Fast Water Festival on the Sweden-Finland border.

The Bitches: The Bitches are well known to playboaters and sea kayakers as some of the best whitewater in Britain. At high tide the water is channelled between Ramsey Island and the Welsh mainland and rushes over a shallow reef in the channel. They are called The Bitches because of the shipwrecks they have caused.The Bitches are a half-mile off shore and difficult to predict accurately, so paddlers camp on the island and paddle in the morning and evening to catch The Bitches at their best.

RSVP: There were two selection events held in the UK but most other competitors, including paddlers from Germany, USA, Finland and New Zealand, arrive as invitees. 

All in the Same Boat: Competition includes whitewater sprint, rodeo, squirt, wave and extreme slalom complete with committing seal launch. Competitors all used the same model of boat for each discipline. Scores are weighted and totalled.

An Offer He Can’t Refuse: Germany’s Jan Kellner, nicknamed the “Godfather of Rodeo” becomes the first world freestyle champion and is still considered the most successful rodeo paddler in Europe. Kellner goes on to design the revolutionary Diablo for Eskimo. 

Stunt Boating: The event was called the World Stunt Boat Championships. “We’d been calling events ‘rodeos,’ and figured that it would confuse anyone who wasn’t familiar with kayaking,” says Middleton. One of stunt boating’s big moves is to stand up and sit down while front surfing. 

While You Were Sleeping: Although billed as the first international freestyle event, many still don’t consider The Bitches to be the first Worlds, mostly because the world didn’t hear about it until it was over.

Tequila: The Bitches event continues for seven years, culminating in a Jose Curervo party at which 140 boaters drink 10 cases of tequila in two days. 

1993: Hell Hole, Ocoee River, Tennessee USA

This is the Tail of the Hurricane: In 1993, the Prijon Hurricane is the boat to beat. The Perception Super Sport and Dagger Transition are designed and built in composite and revealed just days before for this event, marking the first time in history kayakers design boats for freestyle…and manufacturers build them.

Now That’s Funny: The 10-foot, 62-gallon Transition is considered by many to be too close to a squirt boat and is almost banned from the competition. 

Technically Speaking: A meeting with international paddlers results in a technical score being added to the style score just before the event. Totally vertical ends are worth three points, elevated ends are worth two and flat spins worth one.

Combined Event: Competition includes both hole riding in Hell Hole and freestyle through a rapid at Entrance Rapids. Freestyle through a rapid requires that competitors establish surfs and do various other rock moves and tricks while moving down the river. Only a few competitors complete the entire course; slalom paddlers excel in this event. 

You’re Cut Off: Moments before finals, using river knives, open canoeists hack deck plates off their MohawkViper 11s to achieve bigger enders and pirouettes, the winning OC moves.

Splitting Heirs: Eric Jackson says he created the split wheel two days before the event and uses it to beat American slalom paddler Scott Shipley in the hole-riding event taking gold overall. The split wheel scored the same technical score as cartwheels but more style. Scott Shipley comes second and Shane Benedict third.

Birth: The very first Ocoee rodeos were held at Double Trouble, then by ’83 they were held at Second Helping. The Hell Hole and the ’93 World Championships are considered the birth of whitewater freestyle as we know it. 

1995: Augsburg, Germany

Lucky Lederhosen: Augsburg’s Eiskanal was the slalom course for the 1972 Munich Olympics, is Germany’s only artificial whitewater course and is home of the play hole, Washing Machine. The event is sponsored by Mercedes and the most organized to date. The opening ceremonies involve a guy in lederhosen cracking huge whips. Cool.

Hometown Favourite: Linking a cartwheel has become the norm. Ollie Grau of Germany wins with a 10-pointer in a Dagger Blast. Corran Addison is second in a prototype Fury, a boat he says is the first planing hull design, and Donald Calder from New Zealand is third. 

Less Style: The style score is lowered to lessen the subjective aspect of the score; so now based more on objective scoring.

No Kidding: The 9.5-foot Blast is the first in a long line of kids’ or small paddlers’ boats used by big adults to win freestyle events. Recommended paddler weight range: 50–135 lbs; high performance rodeo use range: 50–200 lbs. 

Sisterhood Falls: A group of American women try to make a pact that no female shall try cartwheels, because they consider it a “power thing and really only for men.” Jamie Simon tells them to shove it and throws a cartwheel to win gold.

Cut Down Ocoees: The art of cutting open canoes in half begins. Uwe Fischer lands the first open boat cartwheel in a world competition in a cut down Ocoee to win the event. 

1997: Horseshoe, Ottawa River, Ontario Canada

Bling-Bling: Height of pro team support. Team Perception rolls up in a pimped-out white stretched limo complete with RV support/party vehicle.

Local Hero: Ken Whiting walks out the front door of his rented cabin at McCoy’s Rapid and wins the Worlds in a Perception 3-D with 35 vertical ends, beating Eric Jackson’s 34 ends. Kenny Mutton takes third paddling very differently—everyone else is throwing ends from the top of the foam pile, Mutton hucks from everywhere.

Rules Overruled: There are three features to use, including two holes and a wave. The event organizers Mark Scriver and Corran Addison propose rule changes that would double the scoring for moves done on a wave, for example, a spin would score one in a hole but two points on a wave. Team leaders meet and vote down the proposed changes only a week before the event. 

In Protest: Instead of competing when his big number is called, Corran Addison floats into the current holding a banner high overhead protesting the decision to not change the rules. He announces to television cameras that until the International Freestyle Committee reverses its rule-change decision, he will never again compete in another IFC-sanctioned rodeo.

New Groove: Paul Danks, paddling a revolutionary Massive Groove C1, allegedly doubles the score of kayakers but was banned from competing.Turns out he hadn’t qualified to compete in C1 only OC1 and the bit about score is true if the IFC had accepted the proposed rule changes. 

Juniors Debut: Brad Ludden wins junior men’s division. First time juniors competed at the Worlds; no junior women competed until 2001 in Sort, Spain.

No Bull: Soon after the 1997 World Rodeo Championships an international paddling event in Switzerland sees a vendor selling western wear, hats and boots, complete with a mechanical bull. Event organizers agree that rodeo is the wrong term and begin switching to freestyle that they also feel reflects the current state of the sport – less hanging on for dear life and more controlled tricks. 

1999: Full James, Waikato River, New Zealand

The Little Prince: Eric Southwick was the sleeper that scraped into each round and just kept plugging away until his last ride, in which he wins with the best variety, including aerial blunts in his Wave Sport ForePlay.

Back to the Hole: The water levels fluctuate, dropping so low for semi-finals that the foam pile almost disappears catching many competitors off guard. This was the first time the Worlds is on a wave. The IFC votes to return to a hole competition site next year in Spain while North American pro freestyle athletes keep searching for larger and larger waves.

Wave Hogs: When officials discover the river will run at the right level for 24 hours, they set up lights to allow for night training.Teams are allotted one-and-a-half hours of training time.The Swiss team files a formal complaint against the U.S. team, who it claims stayed on the wave 10 minutes past their deadline.

Half Baked: At the 1998 Pre-Worlds, paddlers are heating boats with camp stoves then parking trucks on the ends to squash them for more slice.

Multiplier Effect: Introduced at the Pre-Worlds in ’98, the new scoring system includes a multiplier encouraging different moves while still getting technical points for spins and cartwheels.

XXX Controversy: Not what you might think, the Wave Sport XXX controversy is that Dan Gavere enters his plastic planing hull boat in the squirt boat competition. He is able to throw huge moves on top of the wave that no one else can in squirts, but is unable to mystery move. Normally this would rule out the XXX as a contender, except at the ’99 site most people feel the huge eddylines and whirlpools are too deep and scary to mystery move after Clay Wright is held under for 35 seconds. Gavere places fifth.

Sacred River: Twenty-four-year-old Irish team member Niamh Tomkins disappears between the semi-finals and finals on Sunday while swimming without a PFD in the underestimated boils of Full James. Tomkins dies that afternoon on the banks of the Waikato River. Maori tradition says if a person dies on a river it is considered sacred until blessed and deemed safe again. Had they had chosen to not bless the river, the event would have been stopped and the semi-final results would stand. The Irish team says the event should continue in memory of their fallen comrade. Finals are held over until Monday. 

2001: Rio Roguera, Sort, Spain

Spanish Beauty: Rio Noguera flows out of the Pyrenees Mountains directly under the main street and then over a metre-high ledge fixed up with heavy machinery, creating the most spectator and media-friendly freestyle event ever.

I Need More Cowbell: The men’s semi-final is held at 11 o’clock under the lights as fans hammer cowbells and blow air horns. The venue and energy of the competitors and crowd in Sort is credited as the bestWorlds event to date.

Liquidlogic Debuts: Liquidlogic debuts at the Worlds with their first boats, the Session and Session Plus. 

Trophy Moves: New policy develops that new moves added to the scoring system need to be demonstrated for judges and competitors before the event. And the trophy move concept is introduced to the scoring system for spectacular and new moves not on the score sheet. 

Say What?: Hot moves are loops, air loops, space Godzillas, tricky woos, and the matrix. 

Real-Time Score: A Spanish IT company introduces a new score-keeping system. Scribes use Palm Pilots to record scores that feed wirelessly to a database and a large digital scoreboard. For the first time ever there is immediate feedback for the crowd and athletes about the score of the last ride.

Economics: Meanwhile the Canadian dollar sinks to new low, driving popular Dagger Ego and Super Ego manufacturer’s suggested retail price to all-time high of $1,595. 

2003: River Mur, Graz, Austria

I’ll Be Back: Terminator III on the River Mur in Graz is the nastiest, munchiest hole the Worlds has ever seen. Websites post daily swim counts. 

Inner-City Youth: The downtown venue adds to the festive feel of this year’s Worlds. Everyone stays downtown within a portage of the hole. The most popular mode of transportation for athletes is the children’s folding scooter.

Sudden Death: The men’s finals are a sudden-death shootout between five paddlers. They wait above the hole to see who had the lowest scoring ride and who is being dropped. He then floats down into the hole for one last go and a wave to the roaring crowd. Jay Kincaid, Andrew Holcombe and Steve Fisher take home the medals.

American Revolution: The stars and stripes are raised and lowered 13 times as the U.S. team sweeps more than half of the 24 medals. The winning rides are shown on giant TV screens above the award ceremonies in the city square. 

Choose Your Poison: With all athletes living within walking or scooter distance of the pubs and bistros in downtown Graz, the athlete parties are insane. Athletes blame the bacteria-filled river water for their need for beer and stiff drinks. Without mandatory drug testing, officials are unable to determine if it is the water or the medicine making paddlers sick. 

Winger Winner: Brooke Winger, 25, wins gold and becomes the paddler with more medals than anyone in the history of freestyle kayaking. The top three women are all paddling Wave Sport Transformer T1s. 

2005: Main Wave, Penrith Whitewater Stadium, Australia

Going Up: Penrith’s Olympic Stadium is a completely man-made river—essentially a concrete ditch with movable pylons to direct the water. Athletes didn’t have to get out of their boats; a conveyor belt carries them up to the top of the run.

More C1: After outstanding performances by C1 paddlers, the International Freestyle Committee decides to increase the class from two paddlers per country to three for the next Worlds.

Spice of Life: USA and Canada have eliminated technical points and go with a 100 per cent variety scoring to encourage athletes to do more difficult and different moves. Europeans refuse to vote for the rule change, so the technical scores are used one more time.

Six Pack: At the final party Billy Harris mistakenly challenges Tanya Faux to an “ab-off ” (flexing their six packs). Tanya wins and Billy loses his eyebrows as part of the bet. 

Jackson Kayaks: Eric Jackson debuts Jackson Kayak’s AllStar at its first Worlds and nudges out Billy Harris to win his third World Championship in 12 years.

Open Boats, Open Minds: In the final rounds, Paul Danks set a new OC1 record score of 65 points, almost doubling previous Worlds scores—beating out the likes of Mark Scriver (1997 World Champion), Eli Helbert (1999/2001 World Champion), Stefan Patsch (2003 World Champion) and James Weir, a finalist at the last four World Championships.

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller? The travel time to Australia, a disappointing feature and reduced industry support for athletes is blamed for dismal attendance. Only 23 countries and 200 athletes participate, down from Sort with 35 countries and capped registration of 300.

Olympic Hopeful: To be considered for the Olympics as early as 2012, the International Freestyle Committee votes to create a World Cup series to replace its biannual Pre-Worlds. The IFC—formed sometime after the first World Championships in 1991—dissolves and becomes a technical subcommittee of the International Canoe Federation and will continue as their source of recommendations for event locations and rule updates. This move is another step toward IFC’s Olympic dream. 

2007: Mini-Bus, Ottawa River, Canada

Welcome Back: Ten years after the first World Freestyle Championships were held at McCoy’s Rapid on the Ottawa River, the Worlds return, this time downriver at the Lorne Rapids in the Bus Eater—a huge river-wide hole that 10 years ago was the scariest thing anyone had ever seen.Wilderness Tours and the Ottawa Kayak School are the hosts of the event, which will see the Ottawa River become the first river to host the Worlds more than once.

Taking the Worlds By Storm: There is much debate among Ottawa River locals as to whether there will be water for the ideal wave for the Worlds. Event organizers are optimistic, they say that water levels are about 70-80 per cent certain—record rain and warm temperatures well into January have left upstream res- ervoirs full of water.

Idyllic Thinking: The preferred location is Mini-Bus, the river left wave in Bus Eater. Higher water will see the event move to the right for Big Bus or further downstream to a wave known as Gladiator.With co-operation from Mother Nature, Quebec Hydro and Ontario Hydro, athletes hope this to be the best Worlds ever.

I’ve Got My Mini-Bus: The river left side of Bus Eater is Mini-Bus.This is considered the perfect location for the Worlds for a number of reasons. Entry into Mini-Bus is a stationary ski towrope, which enables paddlers to get back in without getting out of their boats.

Too Much Big Bus: When Mini-Bus floods out, Big Bus loses some of its violence and offers great big wave boating. The drawback for boaters is a carry back up the riverbank to get back in. Spectators are further from the action. 

Not on Board: Canada’s national airline, Air Canada, has denied Worlds’ organizers petitions to allow kayaks as checked baggage. Air Canada allows skis, surfboards, snowboards and golf clubs but not kayaks. Some paddlers report success in trying to fly in with kayaks—depending on check-in staff. Kayak shopping tip: For great deals, hang out at the Ottawa Airport check-in counter on May 6 with a wad of cash.

The Peanut Gallery: The construction of the judges’ stand and grandstand seating on the island river left of the Lorne was completed last fall. Spectators will be shuttled by motorized raft across the river to the island.More grandstands are scheduled to be built on river right this spring once the final location is determined.

Athlete Village: The 2007 Worlds will have a paddlers’ village featuring an open-air dining pavilion, hot showers, campfire amphitheatre, beautiful beach and cozy cabins. There is no official word if the standard Olympic-sized quantity of 50 condoms will be issued upon arrival. 

Cost of Living: Competitor camping rate is $5 per night; fancy and dry cedar cabins are $50 per night; meal plan is $25 per day; shuttle from the Ottawa Airport is $75 each way; competitor registration, $195; awards banquet dinner, $20 per person; receiving the gold medal that night—priceless. 

Screen Shot 2015 12 22 at 11.54.35 AMThis article first appeared in the Early Summer 2007 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here

Open Canoe Technique: Take the Free Ride

Photo: Rick Matthews
Open Canoe Technique: Take the Free Ride

I think most canoeists would agree that what makes a day on the water a day to remember is an extended and controlled front surf with great side-to-side and back-and-forth movement. you can improve your odds of capturing these prized memorable moments of the big ride with a better understanding of the surf wave and how to control your movement up and down and side to side on its face. 

when sizing up the perfect wave from the shore or eddy pool, the physical features of the wave appear deceptively static and unchanging. the position of the trough does not move; the depth remains the same; even the crest—though perhaps break- ing—appears to change very little. the problem is that once you ferry onto the wave, the weight of the canoe changes its shape. the wave flattens out and the canoe leaves a deep crease trailing downstream weakening the wave’s grip on your canoe. 

For really good surfs you may need to keep actively moving the boat around to keep pace with the altering wave. Forget about finding a wave that lets you just sit passively in the current; it’s a rarity and besides, those snoozey surfs are not the ones memories are made of. 

holding your position on the face of the wave between crest and trough can be tricky. Often on large, steep waves, gravity combined with a fast canoe hull will rocket you down to the trough and pearl and pin your bow in the upstream water and cause your canoe to fill with water. If this happens, simply drag your paddle blade or use a braking backstroke to create enough friction to pull you up the wave and back onto the wave face. too much friction, however, may drag you over the crest and off the wave. 

If the wave is wide enough, you can avoid pearl- ing by surfing side to side across the wave face. by changing your angle to travel across the wave face instead of travelling straight down, you lessen the slope on which you are surfing, therefore slowing your descent down the face of the wave. Carving back and forth keeps your canoe on the best portion of the wave, avoids sinking the bow in the trough and makes your surfing more dynamic and fun. 

to carve left and right on the wave, try using a floating rudder stroke—keeping your paddle away from the gunwale. A floating rudder allows the canoe and paddle to work independently so you can tilt the boat to ferry one way while initiating a new turn with a pry or draw in the opposite direction to carve back across the wave. A floating rudder is a must to maintain the ideal boat tilt through the transition from carving to your onside and to your offside. 

the secret to great surfing is to work with the wave as it changes beneath you. by adjusting your position up and down, and side to side, you can stay on the wave face and out of the trough. the next time you come across the perfect surf wave, get on it, and stay on it for a ride to remember. 

Andrew Westwood is a frequent contributor to Rapid. He’s an open canoe instructor at the Madawaska Kanu Centre and member of Team Esquif. 

Screen Shot 2015 12 22 at 11.54.35 AMThis article first appeared in the Early Summer 2007 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here

Succession Planning: Guides of the Future

Photo: Trailhead Archives
Succession Planning: Guides of the Future

The generation that created the river industry, and much of paddling as we know it today, is greying. After 30 some years and the switch from canvas packs to barrels, retirement is just around the next bend. As the paddling guide industry faces the end of an era, I thought we should look back—something we’re just too young to have done before.

Mountaineers can point to 1899 when the Canadian Pacific Railroad hired two Swiss mountain guides to operate out of its glacier house hotel, starting a long and distinguished tradition of recreational mountain travel. Rivers, on the other hand, have been travelled since the beginning.

For several hundred years first nation guides were the cornerstone of European exploration of the continent. Voyageur guides picked up where they left off by driving the fur trade up and down the waterways, to be replaced by logging’s river drive foremen. guides yes, but the purpose was cartography, furs and lumber, not recreation as we know commercial river guiding today.

Rather than being born, recreational river guiding spawned and hatched slowly. sometime in the 1800s fishing guides, relying on the canoe, began tak- ing paying clients into the wilderness. At the same time, summer canoe camps came into existence, building their programs around canoe tripping and skilled trip leaders. simultaneously the opening of the west’s rivers, such as the colora- do, created an enamoured public and capable boatmen looking for post-exploration employment. Across the continent scruffily bearded, young adventurers started scratching out a living by guiding others down rivers.

By the late 1960s and early ’70s, buoyed by summer canoe camp graduates, advancing gear, huge numbers of then-young baby boomers and an emerging environmental awareness, canoe outfitters and whitewater rafting businesses sprang up everywhere. they grew from backyard sheds into what is now substantial business—adventure tourism.

Operating Black Feather out of his mother’s basement, in 1971 wally schaber was on the leading edge of river-based adventure tourism. Then, $700 would get you several weeks on the nahanni, where schaber was the first licensed canoe guide. “We were cheap and there were a lot of young boomers with some skills. we offered them adventure. At the time, running whitewater was considered pretty extreme,” remembers schaber with a chuckle. Now that same Nahanni trip costs $5,500.

In retrospect the baby boom makes everything sound easy. but really, the intervening 35 years—between basements and big business—the pioneer guide services had to literally create paddling in the minds of the public. The Nahanni and Colorado rivers, if heard of at all, sounded mysterious and dangerous. whitewater rafts and kayaks were unheard of. Spending good money on a river trip as a vacation was a new idea and not an easy sell. 

To survive, river guides were forced to become marketers and salesmen. It was an uncomfortable transition and many of them packed it in or went broke. Trip plans gathered dust while business plans were patched together. Trade shows replaced exploring new rivers. Getting down the rivers was the easy part, getting deposits for summer trips was the real challenge.

The business of guiding grew beyond its cottage industry roots, and with it came mainstream recognition, laws, permits, insurance and regulations. Now in their 50s and 60s the founders of the industry have seen it all develop before their very eyes—indeed driving this development, whether they liked it or not.

Although their tenure may nearly be over, many who created river guiding are still standing at trade shows signing up new clients. After all, the industry is quite literally their life’s work.

Every paddler I know is a paddler because of this history. The rivers we paddle, we can paddle because these greying pioneers and their thousands of paying clients lobbied for river conservation and preservation. The question we have to ask is, with the Baby Boomer heyday gone and the number of regulatory hoops, will anyone step up and guide us for the next 30 years?

I hope so.

Jeff Jackson is a professor of outdoor adventure at Algonquin College in Pembroke, Ontario. 

Screen Shot 2015 12 22 at 11.54.35 AMThis article first appeared in the Early Summer 2007 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here