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Editorial: Freedom Fighters

Photo: Steve Muntz
Editorial: Freedom Fighters

They didn’t set out to be rebels. They were just four ordinary guys driving station wagons and wearing brown suits while trying to raise young families at the dawn of the 1980s. One was my father and the others—Dobson, Cruickshank and Kinnear— were people I would only hear about as their annual fall canoe trip approached.

One September, they were paddling deep in Ontario’s canoe country north of Elliot Lake when they finished a portage and discovered an aluminum canoe with a faded camp logo on the bow. It had obviously fared poorly in the rapids above and been left on the rocks as a memorial to mark the spot where one camp counsellor had gambled his $300 salary for the sake of a class II thrill.

They rehabilitated it with pine gum and duct tape and carried their new canoe to the top of the set to see what this whitewater thing was all about.

After running it a few times, the canvas canoes they had always rented seemed to be fragile liabilities, and they resolved to buy a second canoe of their own.

The next summer Cruickshank heard about an Indian selling canoes for $60. Perfect, he thought. He and Kinnear collected $15 each from the other two. After work one day they parked their car at the docks and took a ferry to Toronto’s Centre Island where they were told they could find the Indian. He was at the rental kiosk. His name was Gyan Jain, a real Indian who had come to Canada with an engineering degree that wasn’t recognized so began renting canoes by the hour to tourists.

Without negotiating, they picked out the best of the bunch, a flat-bottomed, triple-thwarted, orange-trimmed, aluminum barge of a canoe, rolled up their polyester slacks and pushed off to paddle across the harbour.

It was a sunny day and the ferries and cruisers were staying clear. All was well until Cruickshank looked over his shoulder to see the Harbour Police following slowly in the patrol launch.

“Let’s make a run for it,” suggested Kinnear. With their wide, richly-textured ties swinging from their necks—this was the early 80s remember—they gave it all they had for a few minutes. The cops bore down on them and, no doubt eager for a chance to use the loud hailer, ordered them to put their paddles down.

The police were preparing to confiscate the apparently-stolen rental canoe and take it back to the island when Kinnear pulled the receipt out of his pocket and proudly proclaimed that the canoe belonged to him.

After a curt warning about the dangers of canoeing in open waters, the police motored away.

It would be easy to say the police were just doing their jobs, or were concerned about public safety. But I suspect something more sinister was at work. For the last 27 years that canoe has taken men and women away from their offices and jobs, out of service as productive members of society. Not everyone can be happy about that.

As Kevin Callan notes in this issue’s Butt End column, in this society we are working harder and canoeing less. There must be something driving this unnatural trend, a dark force that would rather have us at our desks boosting the GDP instead of punching new waypoints into our GPS.

We haven’t yet uncovered how shadowy business organizations like the Canadian Council of Chief Executives pull levers of power to enlist the police in their fight against canoe purchases and the leisure time that follows, but we have our best freelancer on the case. That will be an issue you won’t want to miss.

In the meantime, I’d like to dedicate this, our sixth canoe buyer’s guide, to Cruickshank and Kinnear. Two men who faced state-sponsored harassment of canoe buyers and came home with a canoe to call their own.  

This article on canoes was published in the Early Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Canoeroots’ print and digital editions here.

Remote Park Routes

Photo: Ron Erwin / AllCanadaPhotos.com
Remote Park Routes

For the canoe tripper, parks present a dilemma. 

On one hand, park services such as information staff, route maps and marked campsites and portages can make planning and executing a trip a simple affair. 

For the canoe tripper, parks present a dilemma. 

On one hand, park services such as information staff, route maps and marked campsites and portages can make planning and executing a trip a simple affair. 

On the other hand, the simpler the planning is the more likely that the route will be crowded and you’ll be plagued by a feeling of being watched by park authorities. 

By digging a little harder than the average park visitor you can still find routes that are unfairly neglected.

Every park has a corner that is hard to get to or a lake in the middle that requires a tough carry to reach. Here we offer four routes that enjoy all the ease of park tripping and all the seclusion of a forgotten piece of Crown land that only you know about.

Clearwater-Azure

Alpine wildflowers, old growth rainforest, extinct volcanoes and snowy peaks are not the typical scenery of a canoe trip. Clearwater and Azure Lakes provide an ideal setting to soak up several days of B.C. wilderness. If the stunning views aren’t enough, the route offers great campsites, sandy beaches, a river section, and, in addition to the standard-issue moose and eagles, the Clearwater-Azure route is home to grizzlies and mountain goats.

Wells Gray Provincial Park comes by its nickname of “the waterfall park” honestly, and Rainbow Falls is your proof toward the end of the steep-sided, glacier-fed Azure Lake. If you tire of the falls, forest and beach, explore the wetlands up the mouth of the Azure River.

Need to know

The trip begins and ends at the south end of Clearwater Lake, where you self-register and pay five dollars per person per night (cash only, kids under 13 are free). The lakes, each about 25 kilometres long, are joined by a three-kilometre section of river and a 500-metre portage. On the paddle up the Clearwater River, watch for the portage on your right. On your return trip, enjoy the downstream ride.

Powerboats are permitted on the lakes, but boat traffic is not a major detractor, especially if you go in June or September, and at low water fewer powerboats travel into Azure. Both lakes have campsites (Ivor Creek and Osprey) that are designated for canoeists.

Info

Wells Gray Information Centre: Clearwater, B.C., (250) 674-2646, env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/wells.html

Park Facility Operator: (250) 674-2194, explorewellsgray.com/index.html

Maps

Download a map from the B.C. Parks Wells Gray website. Additional topographic maps are not necessary for canoeing. env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/wells.html

Outfitter

Clearwater Lake Tours: (250) 674-2121, clearwaterlaketours.com

Probably didn’t know

Wells Gray was set aside in 1939 to protect an area almost as large as Prince Edward Island. It has since become an important refuge for the increasingly threatened mountain caribou. Much of their low-elevation habitat outside of the park has been lost. Caribou are often munching away on the forested slopes south of Azure Lake.

Need to bring 

Bring sturdy hiking shoes and a comfortable pack so you can make the full-day hike up to Huntley Col (six kilometres, five hours one way, 1,300-metre elevation gain). You could also plan an overnight hike to Hobson Lake, where Clearwater Lake Tours also rents canoes (15 kilometres, 7 hours, one way, 300-metre gain). Either sidetrip could justify another few days in Wells Gray.

—Patrick Yarnell

Pine Loop

Quetico’s forest is primarily spruce, balsam fir and jack pine. But when you come upon a red or white pine rooted along any of the park’s 600 lakes, you’re in for a treat. Most of the pine stands average around 340 years old, making them some of the oldest trees growing on the Canadian Shield. And one of the best patches of trees to go and see are the ones found on Shan Walshe Lake.

The lake was named after a park naturalist that the Thunder Bay Chronicle called “the conscience of Quetico.” Visiting this lake, and the forests he slowly convinced others to protect, is a perfect way to spend a week in a canoe.

Need to know

The access point for this five-day loop is Ely, Minnesota, meaning a quarter of the route is in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA), one of the United States’ largest chunks of protected wilderness.

Drive northeast out of Ely (and while there, be sure to pronounce it Elee, with an emphasis on the first syllable, or incur the wrath of otherwise friendly Elyians). Take Highway 169 (Fernberg Road) and then Moose Lake Road. It’s 31 kilometres from Ely to the public launch on Moose Lake. From there you paddle half a day across Moose, Newfound and Sucker Lakes to reach the Canadian border. To legally cross the 140-metre Prairie Portage in either direction, Canadian and U.S. paddlers must have a Remote Area Border Crossing permit. The route then heads clockwise through a chain of lakes linking Basswood, South, West, Shade, Dell, Grey, Armin, Shan Walshe, McNiece, Kahshahpiwi, Side and Isabella lakes, which brings you back to Basswood’s North Bay.

To obtain a Remote Area Border Crossing permit  download an application at queticopark.com/rabc/. Canadians can also contact the Canada Immigration Centre, (807) 624-2158. The permit costs $30 Cdn and takes four to six weeks to process. Each paddler must have one.

Info

Quetico Provincial Park: (807) 597-2735 (Trip Planning Information Line).

BWCA home page: bwca.com

The route is written up in A Paddlers Guide to Quetico and Beyond, by Kevin Callan, (Boston Mills Press/Firefly Books).

Maps

The Friends of Quetico canoe map costs $14.95 and can be ordered from (807) 597-2735 or purchased at a ranger station.

Canadian topographical maps: 52 B/3, B/4, B/5, B/6.

U.S. fisher maps: F-10, F-18, F-25.

Outfitters in Ely, Minnesota

Canoe Country Outfitters: 1-800-752-2306, canoecountry.com/canoecountry/

River Point Outfitting: 1-800-456-5580, elyoutfitters.com/index.htm#si

Canadian Waters Canoe Outfitters: (218) 365-3202, canoecountry.com/canadianwaters/

Probably didn’t know

The portages leading in and out of Shan Walshe and McNeice lakes aren’t easy. One kilometre-long carry descends into a swampy bog then climbs up a nearly sheer slab of rock. But it’s worth it because it was this rugged terrain that kept the loggers from getting there in the first place. The pine were eventually scheduled to be cut in the 1960s but by then there were so many politically active paddlers who knew about them that the cutting was stopped.

Need to bring

An eye for the weather and a good rain tarp. Quetico is well known for its sudden rain squalls and frequent lightning storms. 

—Kevin Callan

Chochocouane River

Before we get a letter of correction from the Official Languages Commission, we should point out that réserve faunique does not, strictly speaking, translate into English as provincial park. It’s true that there is hunting and logging in La Vérendrye, but they also occur in some so-called parks, and La Vérendrye has a maintained network of canoe routes that puts most parks to shame. For 15 years Canoe-Camping La Vérendrye (CCLV) has made tripping on the 800 kilometres of routes crossing the 13,615-square-kilometre reserve a simple affair.

Need to know

To paddle the Chochocouane, the reserve’s biggest river, you will want to follow circuit 61, a loop of 65 kilometres, or circuit 63, a variation that traverses 132 kilometres. 

But wait, you say, how does a river trip constitute a loop? You have to ascend the Canimiti River at either end of the loop for a total of 31 upstream kilometres. At summer levels the current should only be noticeable for 10 kilometres and it means you won’t have to arrange a shuttle. 

The put-in and take-out for both loops is the bridge on the Canimiti River, 113 kilometres northwest of Le Domaine, the CCLV visitor’s centre on Highway 117. The amount of the Chochocouane you descend will depend on which loop you choose, but either section offers plenty of easily avoided whitewater, making it suitable for any skill level.

Permits and fishing licences are available at Le Domaine. Permits for each circuit are handed out on a first-come, first-served basis every day.

Info

You can learn everything you need to know from CCLV (819) 435-2521, canot-camping.ca.

Maps

CCLV: Map #6 (order for $8 through the website).

Topographical: 31 N/11, 31 N/14, 31 N/15.

Outfitter

Rent canoes at the CCLV base at Le Domaine. You can also arrange a shuttle if you want to spare your vehicle some logging road travel. A round trip from Le Domaine for two canoes or less is $226. 

Probably didn’t know

You don’t need to own a car or freeload off your friends to paddle La Vérendrye. Le Domaine enjoys daily bus service from both Ottawa and Montreal, both less than 350 kilometres away. Once at Le Domaine you can pick up your rented canoe and pre-arranged shuttle. Bus from Montreal, $109, (514) 842-2281. From Ottawa, $106, (613) 238-5900. Schedules are posted on the CCLV website.

Need to bring

Your dog. Though some restrictions exist, Sparky is welcome in La Vérendrye.

—Ian Merringer

New Northern Loop

In the 1990s the Ontario government conducted public consultations named Lands for Life. The result was an increase in the number and size of provincial parks. For the Killarney area it meant new parkland would reach up and grab Lake Panache and environs within its protective embrace. 

But the wheels of land use management turn slowly, too slowly for Kevin Callan. In the spring of 2005 and 2006 he explored the park’s new territory, searching for “lost” portages and routes the park could use. Not only did he find some, he even recorded them for the park staff who went out last season and “re-discovered” them. What they have yet to do, however, is to create a reservation system for the new extension, meaning you won’t have to take your Palm Pilot to ensure you get to all your appointed campsites on time as you explore the rugged land north of the La Cloche mountains.

Need to know

Strictly speaking, the route is not in Killarney proper but in a new park called Killarney Headwaters and Lakelands Provincial Park. It doesn’t receive the same level of protection as Killarney itself, but administration and management are done from the same park office. You still have to get a park permit, but not reservations for specific campsites.

Start this loop either at Lake Panache Marina or Walker Lake public launch. To reach the marina, drive south on Regional Road 55 from Highway 17, about 30 kilometres west of Sudbury. After 1.5 kilometres turn right onto Regional Road 10 and drive south to Lake Panache. For Walker Lake public launch drive south on Highway 6 through Espanola and turn left on Panache Lake Road (Queensway) directly across from the Tim Hortons coffee shop. Drive nine kilometres and turn right at the first fork, toward Hannah Lake. Another six kilometres will take you to another fork. Go left to reach the launch area or Mountain Cove Lodge. 

Paddle the route counterclockwise, from Walker Lake to Bear, High, Basson, Panache and back to Walker. You can take a number of side trips from Bear Lake, allowing you to travel throughout the northern range of Killarney Provincial Park itself.

Info

Killarney Provincial Park: (705) 287-2900, ontarioparks.ca/english/kill.html

Friends of Killarney: (705) 287-2800, friendsofkillarneypark.ca

The route is written up in A Paddlers Guide to Killarney and the French River, by Kevin Callan, (Boston Mills Press/Firefly Books).

Outfitters

White Squall Paddling Centre: Nobel, Ontario, (705) 342-5324, whitesquall.com

Killarney Kanoes: Sudbury, 1-888-461-4446, killarneykanoes.com

Maps

Topographical maps: 41 I/3, 41 I/4.

Friends of Killarney will be coming out with an updated map marking campsites in the new area on July 1st. 

Probably didn’t know 

Dan Brown and his sister Betty, both in their 70s, have lived reclusively on Panache Lake in a remote cabin all their lives. Their stories about the past are inexhaustible, including how a German spy, Baron von Hausen, sent radio signals to Germany from his cabin on Killarney’s Nellie Lake during the Second World War and how Al Capone visited the cabin of the ex-mayor of Chicago on Threenarrows Lake. Apparently enough tommy guns to sink a canoe were found behind the cabin’s walls when it was torn down. 

Need to bring

Compass or GPS. The portage route gets a little confusing between Basson and Panache Lake and if you don’t take a bearing with your compass or GPS, you might find yourself wishing the route wasn’t so secret after all.

—Kevin Callan

This article was originally published in the Summer 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

How To: The Compleat (Beginner) Angler

Photos: James Smedley
How To: The Compleat (Beginner) Angler

At first it’s a distant whine, but in the time it takes to raise your eyes, it’s upon you. 

Zoom! 

The metallic blue blur of a bass boat blasts by with two guys hunkered down behind the windshield, clutching their fishing hats. 

Then they’re gone.

Television fishing shows would have you believe that fishing requires heavy-duty horsepower and enough equipment to open a tackle shop. Not so. By keeping it simple you can get started on a shoestring (though I still recommend monofilament).

Let’s assume you’ll be fishing for freshwater panfish like bass or crappie. Allowing some room for additions from local experts, the following items make up a basic fishing kit for each fisher in your family:

• A spincasting reel and rod combo. This will come with line, usually 10-pound test, which is more than adequate. This type of reel is easy to use and gives little trouble. You can outfit yourself and two kids with rigs like this for under $50, much less if you shop at yard sales.

• A package of plain #6 hooks. Have the staff at a fishing store show you how to tie the hook onto the line. If you don’t want to use live bait you’ll need some lures and swivels or leaders.

• Bait and tackle. These will vary depending on your quarry. Ask some locals. When it comes to lures don’t assume more expensive is better.

• An assortment of split shot weights. Weights get the bait deep or keep the lure down while casting or trolling. 

• A bobber for each line. These let you keep your bait at a constant depth and let you keep your eye on things.

• A licence. Keep it legal by checking the rules for your area.

To rig up your outfits for fishing with bait, which is the simplest way to start with a family, tie a hook to each line using the knot you learned at the tackle store. About 6 to 12 inches above the hook, attach a split shot weight or two. About three feet further up, attach the bobber. 

Now look for someone at the campsite you can quiz. If you find yourself standing on shore without help or a clue where to begin, remember that fish are attracted to spots that are different than the surrounding areas. If most of the shoreline is beach, find a point, pier, boat launch, pile of rocks or a downed tree—anything that looks different. Fish at the edge of features; that is where the fish will be.

All set? Okay, cast out your bait and get comfortable; fishing is a waiting game. Every 15 minutes, slide the bobber one foot up the line until your bait is seven or eight feet deep. You can also have each member of your family start fishing at different depths. 

When a fish bites, raise the top of your rod briskly to set the hook and then keep the line tight. As you reel it in, grin widely, turn your head and yell, “Put the frying pan on, Hon! We’re having fish for supper!”

Fishing can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it, but one thing’s for sure: it’s contagious. 

Ralph Yates wrote about buying a used camper in the April issue of Family Camping.

This article was originally published in the Summer 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Snoopy Rods, Dandelions and Other Fishing Secrets

Photo: Rick Matthews
Snoopy Rods, Dandelions and Other Fishing Secrets

It’s a familiar scene: a tranquil summer evening, setting sun, calm water, several anglers idly casting from shore. The rhythmic lapping of water against the rocks is punctuated by a loud smack as someone slaps a mosquito.

Whether success comes through skill, patience or just plain luck, the thrill of a memorable catch is what fishing is all about. 

Sadly, neither skill nor luck were present that evening on Kettle’s Lake. At dusk, the lids on the tackle boxes slammed shut, canoes pointed back to the landing and the familiar explanation “They’re just not bitin’ tonight” was muttered around the lake. My husband and son were among the defeated. After thoroughly fishing a weedy area that should have yielded results, they could only ponder their strategic shortcomings. 

So you can imagine the sheer horror when my four-year-old daughter landed an 18-inch largemouth bass on her Snoopy rod, reeling it in from shore, right under the nose of her father and brother. She landed it, petted it, named it Freddy, and then released it amid the astounded stares of jealous anglers. 

It’s not supposed to be this way. 

Camping and fishing are synonymous to my kids. Our camping trips are orchestrated to provide the best fishing opportunities possible. 

We arm ourselves with stacks of fishing magazines, towers of videos, spires of reference books and an intimidating arsenal of lures. But the kids break all the rules. They ignore the professional advice from the fishing gurus on television and make do without the latest gadgets from the fishing shows; and they still catch fish. Last summer, my friend’s daughter caught a bass using a dandelion as bait.

With their record of success, kids should be writing for the glossy fishing magazines. I can imagine engaging articles filling the following sections:

Bait and Equipment

• Pantry Bait— Reel them in with Marshmallows and Wieners 

• 101 Things You Can Do with a Fishing Net (Other Than Catch Fish)

Tips and Techniques

• Back in the Box: How To Snorkel for Snagged Lures 

• Tree Climbing 101: Ten Tree-Top Tips for Retrieving Lures

• Whose Line is it Anyway? Untangling Messes of Not-so-Monofilaments 

• Getting Mom to Hook your Worm

Exclusive Features

• Landing Monster Sunfish!

• The Season’s Most Popular Names for Live-Release Catches

I suppose such magazine articles wouldn’t be serious enough for the average angler. After all, fishing is serious business. Too serious, if you ask me. I’ve never seen a kid come back in a bad mood after fishing with a marshmallow as bait, getting a soaker, or climbing a tree to retrieve a snagged lure. 

Kids are great anglers because they’ll take fun over conventional wisdom any day. And when you have a tackle box, a bag of marshmallows and a few friends, who needs skill or luck?

Toss your line in these parks:

Kejimkujik National Park

Nova Scotia

pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ns/kejimkujik

In the spring the brook trout are active in lakes and streams. When the water is warm the white perch lurk in the shallows.

Killbear Provincial Park

Ontario

ontarioparks.com/english/killb.html

The clear Georgian Bay waters are home to walleye, whitefish, perch, pike and bass. A nearby lake trout sanctuary is shelter to a resurgent population.

Voyageurs National Park

Minnesota 

nps.gov/voya/

Walleye, pike and smallmouth bass cruise the waters of this park adjoining the Boundary Waters Canoe Area on the
Canadian/U.S. border.

Yellowstone National Park

Wyoming

nps.gov/yell/

Trout rule in the 1,200 kilometres of rivers and 175 lakes in the oldest park in the U.S.

Waterton Provincial Park

Alberta

watertoninfo.ab.ca

Numerous rainbow, cutthroat, bull and lake trout rub scales with whitefish, pike and sculpin. One lake trout weighed in at 24 kilograms.

Lynn Iles loves fishing, she just doesn’t like to fish. She is a fishing facilitator who books the camping trips, documents the catches and listens to the stories when “They’re just not bitin’.”

This article was originally published in the Summer 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Editorial: Catch Fishing

Photo: Virginia MacGregor
Editorial: Catch Fishing

This is me, July, 1974. I’m fishing in the pond on my grandfather’s farm. Cute, isn’t it? My earliest memories are of fishing in this pond, but I can’t remember ever catching anything. After bombarding my parents with questions, they’ve finally admitted there weren’t any fish in the pond.

That didn’t stop me (although it may have, had I known) from sitting there for hours and even making up elaborate fish stories with all the determination and imagination of a three-year-old sitting on a cherry pail, worm on hook.

There is an allure to fishing that kids can’t explain and grownups shouldn’t ignore.

The fishing industry—a massive group of grownups who still pretend to be kids—has figured out that hooking real kids on fishing while they are young is the secret to the industry’s long-term survival and the long-term survival of fish populations as we know them. They know, for instance, that the likelihood of kids fishing, buying rods and giving cash to conservation groups as adults is far more likely if they are exposed to fishing at an early age.

This is why you’ll find Zebco Finding Nemo rod and reel combos at Wal-Mart. It should also be a statistical wake up call for us parents. Analyzing the data another way, if you are looking forward to going fishing with your sons and daughters when you retire, your chances are significantly greater if you take them fishing now.

My son just turned two years old. For his birthday I gave him his own Plano tackle box with a couple of Rapalas, spinners, spoons (all with the hooks removed, of course) and a dozen rubber worms. Instead of cheap, crappy toys from a dollar store that so many parents get sucked into buying, he and I go shopping for tackle. It is something he loves, it isn’t broken by the time we get home and it’s planting the seed for a lifetime of fishing together.

Planting seeds on a larger scale, the Canadian National Sportfishing Foundation’s awareness campaign, Catch Fishing, is all about getting youngsters into fishing. One of their posters hangs in my local general store. Staring at every parent buying 20 bucks’ worth of gas or lottery tickets is a six-year-old with a big toothy grin holding a beautiful walleye.

What’s the message?

Recreational fishing is an excellent outdoor activity that fosters family values and can assist children in their emotional and social development. What that really means is, if you really want to win big this summer take your sons and daughters fishing. Go during the official National Fishing Week, July 1 to 8, or go whenever you can.

And one more bit of advice from a guy who knows: take them somewhere there are fish.

This article was originally published in the Summer 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Canoes Without Borders

Photo: Frederic Remington Art Museum, Ogdensburg, New York
Canoes Without Borders

No matter where you are reading this, you likely have a certain affection for the canoe. A recent trip to a U.S. event called Canoecopia helped me realize that the canoe is a much more populous and geographically-dispersed notion than some Canadians like to think. Unlikely as it might seem, there may be room in this realization for improvements in the social and political fortunes linking Canadians and Americans. 

Canoecopia, organized by an outdoor retailer in Madison, Wisconsin, bills itself as the world’s largest paddlesports exposition. Largest, in this instance, means that in an exhibit hall the size of a small township hundreds of equipment manufacturers, boat builders, conservation groups, park personnel, paddling clubs, food vendors, gizmo inventers, and publishers (yes, Canoeroots was there) gathered to hobnob and hock their wares. 

Add to that more than 7,000 canoeists (at least half of whom looked like Bill Mason, including a good proportion of the women) who sloshed in over three days in March. Besides the displays, these willing delegates could avail themselves of an Olympic-sized pool with dawn-to-dusk demonstrations and seven (count ‘em) theatres running simultaneous back-to-back programs every hour. 

While navigating my way across the exhibit floor for the first time, the ever-perky Kevin Callan hied up out of nowhere and said, “Think of it as a Star Trek convention for canoeists.” That’s exactly what it was… a paddler’s mind meld. 

I’d been invited to Canoecopia to speak about Bill Mason but by the time my presentations were done, I had attended programs about all aspects of the canoeing and kayaking world delivered by other people from near and far. And although I had crossed the border with a touch of trepidation (having been refused entry on a previous occasion), the sense of connection to these fellow paddlers, most of whom were American, highlighted a lesson and an opportunity.

Although the canoe has a unique and special place in the hearts of Canadians, if one were to draw a line—let’s call it an isothwart—joining points of equal affection for the canoe, it would be clear that canoeophilia would not cease at the 49th parallel. You’ve got this enthusiastic rump of paddlers in Wisconsin and Minnesota. You’ve got Ralph Frese in Chicago (Uncle Sam’s Kirk Wipper…or is Kirk Wipper Canada’s Ralph Frese?) who argues that the American confederacy was not cast of horse shit and wagon grease, as so many believe, but of birchbark and pine pitch in the hands of French explorers Louis Jolliet and Jacques Marquette, who crossed from Lake Michigan through to the Illinois River and down the Mississppi 434 years ago. You’ve got Lewis and Clark. You’ve got the great canoe building companies of the Northeast states. You’ve got boatbuilder Henry Rushton. You’ve got the Adirondack Museum and the Antique Boat Museum in Clayton, New York. You’ve got the American Canoe Association and the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association.

At a point in history when crossing the border is getting increasingly difficult, canoeists on both sides might consider showing leadership by working to celebrate what we have in common rather than capitulating to circumstances that would keep us apart. Rivers, fortunately, know no such bounds—the St. Croix, St. John, St. Lawrence, Red, Milk, Columbia, Fraser, Yukon and many more between—maybe it’s time we used them to paddle to meet our neighbours. As Henry David Thoreau once famously said, “Wherever there is a channel for water, there is a road for the canoe.”

James Raffan has not yet disclosed why he was once refused entry into the United States.

This article was originally published in the Summer 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Skills: Pulley Power

Photo: Matt Leidedker
Skills: Pulley Power

You’ll never feel more helpless on a remote river than when your canoe has flipped, filled with water and been pushed up against rock. Trying to free a wrapped canoe with your hands is only so much isometric exercise, and trying to lever it off with a paddle is a quick way to make kindling. Fortunately, with a handy kit of a throwbag, some webbing, two prussic loops, two carabiners and two pulleys you can set up a mechanically advantageous system to triple your pulling power.

• The line pulling on the canoe (the load line) will be under tremendous strain, so fasten it to a sturdy attachment point such as the junction of a thwart and gunwale. The line should wrap below the submerged gunwale, around the back and overtop of the canoe before heading to shore. This will cause the top gunwale to roll upstream when the line is tightened, spilling water and lightening the load.

• Angle of pull is important when choosing your anchor point on shore, usually a tree or boulder. Consider at what angle the current is flowing into the boat. With very few exceptions, the better angle will be achieved by pulling from as far upstream as your rope and available anchors allow. Invest some time in planning the extraction. Consider the forces at play, the possible angles of pull and how best to unbalance the forces that are pushing the canoe against the rock.

• Establish the anchor by looping the webbing around the tree or rock. Fix the pulley to the webbing with a carabiner and run the line coming from the canoe through the pulley. 

• Now comes the mechanical advantage. Attach a prussic to the load line between the anchor and the canoe as far away from the anchor as possible. (A prussic is a loop of smaller cord that is wrapped around the load line in such a way that it tightens on the line when pulled on.) The prussic will act as a fixed point on the line, allowing you to establish a second pulley midway between the canoe and the anchor. Run the rope through the pulley and back toward the anchor. 

• You may need to engage a brake on the load line in order to reposition the prussic or to take a rest. Loop a second prussic onto the line on the load side of the anchor pulley. You may need to have someone keeping the prussic from getting jammed as the load line enters the pulley. The prussic will tighten on the line if you slowly release the line and the prussic at the same time.

Tips

• Use static or low-stretch rope (not climbing rope). It doesn’t store energy and act like a slingshot when something breaks.

• When pulling, make sure your lines are as parallel as possible to maximize the system’s efficiency.

• Equip yourself with proper pulleys. Using carabiners as pulleys imparts too much friction on the system.

Mike Desrochers anchors load lines as a professional water and ice rescue instructor (watericerescue.com) and anchors a rhythm section as the drummer of the Rapid Palmers.

This article was originally published in the Summer 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Betcha Didn’t Know About Rainbows

Photo: Vasiliy Yakobchuk/istock.com
Betcha Didn't Know About Rainbows
  • Rainbows form when sunlight bounces off airborne water droplets. When the light enters the droplet it is refracted—or deflected—slightly before reflecting off the back of the droplet. The refraction causes the light to disperse into groups of different wavelengths, which form the spectrum of colour you see.
  • If sunlight reflects three times inside the raindrops, a double rainbow forms. The second rainbow is dimmer than the first, and its colours are reversed.
  • Neil Diamond, Johnny Cash, Mariah Carey and Dolly Parton have all recorded albums entitled Rainbow.
  • Rainbows are only visible when  the sun is low in the sky and behind the viewer.
  • The Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior was named after the Cree prophecy “When the world is sick and dying, the people will rise up like warriors of the rainbow.”
  • The rainbow flag first flew in 16th century Germany as a symbol of hope and social change. The gay pride flag flew for the first time in 1978 at San Francisco’s Gay Freedom Celebration.
  • A rainbow can be seen best with polarized sunglasses.
  • René Descartes injected some empirical rigour into the study of rainbows in 1637. Previously, they had been explained by mythology. In Greece, they were a pathway from heaven to earth for Iris the messenger. In India, rainbows were the bow of Indra, the god of lightning and thunder.
  • The first ship of the Royal Canadian Navy was the HMCS Rainbow. 
  • According to Christianity and Judaism, the rainbow is a symbol of God’s promise to Noah that there would be no more floods on earth. Hydro-Québec considers this a non-binding agreement.

This article was originally published in the Summer 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Editorial: A Not-So Clear-Cut Issue

Photo: Algonquin archives a06025
Editorial: A Not-So Clear-Cut Issue

There were whispers around camp that there was something otherworldly about him. Some said he was a Wendigo, the semi-human cannibalistic beast from native legend. How else could a man so large—dressed in an orange jumpsuit no less—drift through the woods so quietly that he could appear behind you just as you were bundle planting or balling up a root system and cramming it into the ground?

The sins of bundle planting and root balling aren’t important outside the world of treeplanting, but they were important to Dane. He was the forester charged with making sure we were planting trees that would grow. Dane could make you replant a day’s worth of trees. On top of that he had a moustache all the guys admired and he knew his way around the bush. He was the guy you wanted to have around if the ATV got stuck in a sinkhole. Though probably not a cannibal, Dane commanded respect.

I suspect he can’t paint as well as Tom Thompson, and no doubt Esther Keyser knows better campsites, but Dane the logger is the Algonquin Park icon that springs to my mind when someone mentions the park.

I’ve spent far more time in Algonquin Park with a shovel in hand than a paddle. During three seasons treeplanting there I bounced along many of the park’s 8,000 kilometres of logging roads with a foreman at the wheel, testing the limits of our van’s suspension and stereo systems. I rode to work every morning with my face against the window, grabbing glimpses of lakes that would have been better viewed from a canoe. 

I proved skilled at hiding my planting gear where my foreman couldn’t see it so I could sneak through the buffer of trees between logged areas and lakes. Sitting on the shore I would feel the callouses on my hands and think of how easy it would be to put in a 40-kilometre day.

Once a week we passed the park gate on our way to Pembroke for a day off. I often imagined stopping and changing the name to Algonquin Tree Farm. I thought people should know that 78 per cent of the park is logged.

My dreams of criminal activism went unfulfilled and the sign remained unmolested. Ten years later there is an easier way to register my opinion. Ontario’s Minister of Natural Resources recently asked the Ontario Parks Board to propose ways to reduce logging in Algonquin Park. The board suggested an increase in the amount of park land that is actually given park-like protection from the current 22 per cent to 46 per cent. If approved, almost half of Algonquin could soon be off limits to logging. The MNR expects there will be public consultations when the minister proposes making the change official.

I think I know what sort of consultation Dane would offer the minister. Dane once gave me the impression that, to him, the trees of Algonquin didn’t just look good on a postcard, their pulp would look good in the postcard. 

Dane might tell the minister that Algonquin was initially created to keep homesteaders and settlements away from the valuable wood supply, not the canoe routes we’ve since scribed on a map. 

He might also tell the minister that good people in towns just like the one this magazine is based in rely on logging in the park for their livelihood. 

That’s a tougher one to answer, but the minister could point out that even with these changes more than half of the park will retain its tree farm function. 

The minister could also point out that these changes might save some money in maintenance costs if would-be vandals are less inspired to deface park signs to point out what goes on behind the gates of this supposed sanctuary of provincial wilderness. After all, it’s not just the park gates that have signs. There’s a sign on the road leaving the Toronto airport telling all the tourists that fly here for the wilderness we have left that they are only 252 kilometres from a park that is becoming less and less like a tree farm.

This article was originally published in the Summer 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

In Parting: The Upside of Rolling

Photo: Peter McBridge/Aurora Photos
In Parting: The Upside of Rolling

When it comes to rolling, I think sea kayakers are like Steve Carrell’s character in the movie The 40-Year-Old Virgin—they can go a long way through life without ever doing it. Perched precariously on the surface as we are, there’s a feeling that eventually it’s going to happen—we’re going to flip and need to know how to roll—but the pressure to be ready for that day that may never arrive can become an obsession and a debilitating fear.

Learning to roll a sea kayak is hard. You’re doomed from the start because the very conditions most likely to flip you are also the ones in which you least want to be practicing. should a sea kayaker ever flip over on a trip—god forbid—that makes for a truly epic moment. Witness Southern Exposure, Chris Duff’s book about his expedition around New Zealand’s south island. It includes a map marking the location of every capsize.

We paddle through the worst stuff with our teeth clenched, hoping nothing goes wrong, and then practice our rolls on sunny afternoons in calm water by the beach where we can call a buddy over to perform a t-rescue when we blow our hip flick, bring our head up first and start carping for air. And thus we never really get it.

That was me a few years ago. To celebrate my 30th birthday I did a long expedition on the open coast, and at the time I had no roll. A strong brace and a “please don’t flip” mantra kept me alive, but the fear of capsizing took the fun out of some of the most spectacular parts of the trip.

ROUGH WATER PRACTICE

It takes rough water practice to really nail the roll. What finally taught me to roll after years of failure was moving from the ocean to the river. A whitewater paddler would never map out every spot he capsized; rolling on the river is like falling down while learning to snowboard—it’s just what you do. You flip again and again at the worst possible times, when the waves are big, the eddy lines are a mess and the water’s full of air and boils.

For a while I harboured sea kayaker fears—what if I flip over, what if I swim? I blew some rolls and pulled the skirt and swam through a few big rapids, but in time the roll became a reflex and my fears vanished. Then I went back to the ocean and found my entire outlook had changed. As competitive roller Cheri Perry says in the new movie This is the Sea 3—describing how it feels to be the master of 30 rolls—“I was afraid of capsizing. Now I’m not afraid of capsizing.”

Now every time I roll up I feel like celebrating. Celebrating that I’ve beaten the fear, that I’ve finally got the skill, and that I’m back up on the right side of that thin line we float on—the side where the air is. I feel like Steve Carrell at the end of the movie, doing his post-virginity Bollywood-style dance number to “this is the dawning of the Age of Aquarius.” rolling feels good, and I wonder why I waited so long. 

This article on rolling your kayak was published in the Early Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.