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Rehabilitating the Rattler

Photo: Patricia Kerr
Rehabilitating the Rattler

In the 1960s, when hippies were singing about free love and protesting the seal hunt, Ontario’s provincial park officials were clubbing massasauga rattlesnakes to death. But today, Kenton Otterbein, the head naturalist at Killbear Provincial Park, says campers are learning to live peacefully with Ontario’s only venomous snake, a species he describes as “darn cute.”

Most people wouldn’t think of massasauga rattlesnakes as cute. But then, most people don’t know much about them. They are less than three feet long with a dark and light blotchy pattern. Baby rattlesnakes are born alive without a rattle. At about 10 days of age they will rub against a rock and pull out of their first skin. The skin will catch on a knob at the end of their tail and the first segment of the rattle will form. They will add another segment two or three times each year when they shed their skin.

When camping and travelling in Ontario’s rattlesnake country it is rare to ever hear the rattle of a massasauga. They want nothing more than to avoid contact with humans. Being cold-blooded, they are only active within a narrow temperature band, one only reached between the hours of noon and 4 p.m. during the spring and between 4 and 10 p.m. during the summer.

Nonetheless, persecution by humans has relegated massasauga rattlesnakes to only a few pockets of habitat in Ontario, the most notable being the eastern shore of Georgian Bay. Statistics kept by the staff at Killbear Provincial Park indicate that, though incidents are rare, the people most often bitten by a massasauga rattlesnake are 18- to 30-year-old men, who’ve been boozing and are acting like the Crocodile Hunter—the guy from the television show of the same name who travels around the world catching poisonous reptiles and insects to impress his female co-stars. The other recorded snake bites are the results of people accidentally stepping on a snake in the dark. Otterbein at Killbear says the chances of being bitten are very low,

“There is a greater risk of drowning in a bathtub at home than being bitten by one of our rattlesnakes.”

In those rare cases that a snakebite does occur, first aid is the same as it is for any small puncture wounds says Lorraine Vankoughnett, the acting director of acute care at West Parry Sound Hospital. Parry Sound hospitals treat up to six bites per year and provide medical research and education across Canada. Vankoughnett says the best thing to do is to stay calm, clean the wound, bandage it loosely and seek medical help. “And do not bring me the snake,” she adds, in the hopes of dispelling a myth.

At the hospital, Vankoughnett and her team would perform blood tests and observe the patient for up to 24 hours. They have found that in one out of every four snakebites there is no venom injected into the wound. From the snake’s perspective, biting a human is defensive and a waste of its precious venom. They need to save their venom for mice.

Researchers for the Metro Toronto Zoo estimate the massasauga rat- tler population in Ojibway Park near Windsor to be fewer than 200 snakes in an area less than one square kilo- metre. Paul Pratt, a naturalist for the City of Windsor, says the snakes are a good indicator of the health of the environment: “A top-of-the-line predator like the massasauga rattler makes the ecosystem intact. If there are only a few types of plants and mice, the area is not complete.”

For a long time, people living in massasauga rattlesnake country believed that the only good snake was a dead snake. Although most wanton killings have stopped, humans are still the only real threat to the massasauga rattlesnake, and Pratt points out that we are much more of a hazard to their survival than they are to ours.

With educational programs like Killbear’s Brake for Snakes motorist-awareness campaign, The Metro Toronto Zoo’s Save our Snakes educational effort and the Ojibway Nature Centre’s live snake display, people are slowly warming up to this cold-blooded cutie, allowing the shy massasauga rattlesnake to get on with hunting its prey of mice, not men. 

Venom Vitals

  • Seven people were bitten by massasauga rattlers in Ontario last year.
  • The massasauga rattler’s fangs are 5–6 mm long.
  • A lethal dose of massasauga venom for humans is 30–40 mg.
  • One bite injects up to 6 mg of venom (do the math… you’d have to be bitten five or six times to be in danger).
  • Mice die as quickly as three minutes after a bite.
  • Massasauga rattlesnake venom is not a true poison, it is a hemolytic that prevents blood from clotting.
  • Most human rattlesnake bites are associated with the consumption of alcohol (by the human, not the snake).
  • No one in Ontario has died of a snake bite in the last 45 years. 

This article on rattle snakes was published in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

The Tandem Sideslip

Photo: Gary and Joanie McGuffin
The Tandem Sideslip

A sideslip is an elegant way to shift your canoe sideways while underway. It is an efficient way for both solo and tandem paddlers to avoid obstacles while maintaining forward speed because it avoids the drag associated with turning or spinning the canoe. Sideslips employ static strokes—the paddle stays stationary and the pressure of the water against the blade produces the force that moves the canoe laterally.

The same strokes—the static pry and static draw—are used for tandem sideslips in either direction. In this sequence, with the bow paddler paddling on the left, a static bow pry and stern draw are used to sideslip the canoe to the right. To sideslip to the left, a static bow draw and stern pry would be used.

A sideslip is an elegant way to shift your canoe sideways while underway.

1. Approach with forward momentum. Since the strokes are static they rely on water pushing against the blade to influence the path of the canoe. Tilt the canoe away from where you want to go to keep from catching the canoe’s leading edge once you start to slip.

2. The bow paddler places a static pry while the stern paddler places a static draw. Both blades are angled 15 to 20 degrees away from parallel to the centreline. Aim the leading edge of the blade where you want to go.

3. The bow paddler should adjust her blade angle so the bow does not sideslip faster than the stern. The stern paddler adjusts his blade angle so the canoe remains pointed in the intended direction.

4. Once the canoe has slipped far enough or lost the momentum necessary to slip further, follow up with forward strokes. 

This article was adapted from Gary and Joanie McGuffin’s Paddle Your Own Canoe

This article on the tandem sideslip skill was published in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Bancroft Rocks

Photo: Carter Hammett
Bancroft Rocks

Buried miles beneath our feet in the cavities and caverns of the earth are thousands of untold tales that date back millennia. When you know what to look for, sagas of glacial shifts, continental collisions and seismic activity can be read in the stone.

Modern versions of those stories are given expression in objects that we take for granted every day. Gardeners fortify their soil with lime. Cooks enliven their food with salt. We purify our water with carbon. In fact, minerals can be found in batteries, computers, televisions, kitchen appliances, cancer treatments, X- ray machines, vitamins and cosmetics. It’s something many of us don’t think about often, but the same can’t be said of the 13,000 rockhounds who descend on Bancroft during the August long weekend.

Long known as the mineral capital of Canada, Bancroft is a haven for rockhounds the world over.

Famous for its annual Rockhound Gemboree, now in its 43rd year, Bancroft has a rich history of mining that dates back more than a century.

Since that time, the town of 4,000 has gone through various peaks and valleys of commercial production booms in feldspar, soaps, paint and glass. Marble production marked another peak in the town’s mining history, resulting in the mineral’s use in such landmarks as Ottawa’s Parliament Buildings and Toronto’s Union Station. The last great boom occurred during the 1960s when uranium reached its zenith in world markets.

Bancroft’s first Gemboree coincided with the closure of the Faraday Mine in 1964. Since then, the town has capitalized on its rich history and geological diversity to attract a steady stream of tourists to the area. Chief among the region’s tectonic oddities are the large number of pegmatites that lay hidden beneath the earth.

Pegmatites contain an inner core of quartz and an outer shell sometimes speckled with radioactive materials such as uraninite. Pegmatites occur when volcanic activity is diverted by substantial barriers—such as the vast Canadian Shield. When the diverted lava cools underground it hardens and remains riddled with dazzling minerals such as sodalite.

The pegmatites are one of the major attractions that lure rock-hounds to the Gemboree says Christine Hattin, the events coordinator with the Bancroft Chamber of Commerce. “Exhibitors and dealers come from as far away as Europe, Iraq and Pakistan,” she says. Visitors are offered field trips to more than 30 collecting sites, have opportunities to hear lectures from geological experts and even pan for gold.

Although you don’t require a background in geology to collect minerals, it is important to outfit yourself with the appropriate gear prior to venturing out to collection sites. A basic rockhound survival kit includes safety goggles, boots, sample bags, a backpack, water, a pry bar, a compass and a small sledgehammer or pick. More experienced collectors often carry a hand lens, gloves, hardhat, guidebook and identification kits.

Commonsense safety guidelines should also be adhered to. Collect with a partner, tell someone where you’re going and stay out of abandoned mines, as these can be particularly hazardous.

Hattin suggests starting your rockhounding experience with a visit to the Gemboree to speak with other mineral enthusiasts.

“You find a diversity of minerals here and lots of people simply don’t have that where they live,” says Hattin. “For them, the experience is unique.”

Bancroft Area

BERYL PIT Minerals include: beryl, clavelandite, tourmaline, quartz, garnet, apatite.
BEAR LAKE Diggings in Monmouth township of- fers titanite, and rare quartz. Bring a shovel.

MACDONALD MINE in Monteagle township, is located in a zoned pegmatite dyke with a massive centre of quartz. Also: granite, calcite, feldspar, pyrite, zircon and galena. Visitors are warned to enter mine at their own risk.
 

Thunder Bay

Amethyst Mine Panorama boasts the largest deposit of amethyst in North America. Amethyst, a coloured crystalline variety of silica mineral quartz, is the official gemstone of Ontario. 

Cobalt

Cobalt, a former silver mining hotspot, is replete with silver ore and cobalt. The mining museum on site offers specimens from around the world.

Sudbury

Sudbury is famous for its nickel production. Science North runs a “Path of Discovery” tour to major mining sites and operates a rock swap. The city hosts its own gem and mineral show in mid- July. Minerals: Garnet, staurolite, chlorotoid. Don’t forget to visit Dynamic Earth, the interactive earth sciences centre.

Timmins Underground

Timmins Underground offers a gold mine tour that allows visitors to sample the mining life. 

 

This article on geology was published in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Canoeroots’ print and digital editions here.

Base Camp: Cutting His Teeth

Photo: Scott MacGregor
Base Camp: Cutting His Teeth

It may have been the bristles scrubbing his four little chompers, but more likely he didn’t like being pinned to the cold tile floor like some midget wrestler while a malnourished Hulk Hogan rammed a toothbrush into his face.

Toothbrushing, like having teeth at all, was something new for Dougie and it was not something he was particularly fond of. He kicked and squirmed, screaming in protest, shaking his head from side to side doing his very best to spit out the brush. I was literally fighting tooth decay.

I’d just returned from the dentist office where I learned of an impending root canal. As a responsible parent I vowed to enforce a new toothbrushing policy upon my son so that he would not have to fear the drill in 35 years. I won the battle, of course, because I’ve got him by about 140 pounds. But all I’d taught him was that brushing his teeth is something he has to do because I’m bigger; because I said so. I hadn’t won at all. He went to bed with his mouth free of plaque and I went to bed with a heart full of guilt.

The next day Dougie dragged his little ottertail paddle over to a basket of laundry, climbed into the basket and began paddling his rubbermaid canoe and a week’s worth of socks across the living room floor.

I cried.

For years, prepping myself for the task, I’ve been asking outdoorsy parents how they turned their kids into little campers.

They all have wonderful stories to tell, all different stories of course, but the secret, they say, is including a little bit of camping, skiing, biking, canoeing and hiking into everyday life. Which I guess explains why we have a tent set up in the dining room, we wear bike helmets at story time and we own the Chariot CX2 adventure stroller reviewed in this issue’s new toy box column.

For two months I’d put Dougie on my knee with his pint-sized paddle while I hummed bits and pieces of old camp songs. Since he was born he’s been coming to the river with us watching kayakers play in the rapids. he often floats around with us in our canoe.

Seeing Dougie kneeling in the laundry basket paddling across the living room solved my toothbrushing dilemma.

Everything I wanted him to learn about camping I’d made into a toy or a game and made sure he saw us smiling and having fun. Yet something as routine and important as brushing my teeth I did in the privacy of my own bathroom. Then one day I produced a toothbrush, pinned him down and rammed it into his mouth. How shocking that must have been. Putting it like that, I can see myself appearing on the next Jerry Springer show, “On today’s show, hippie dads who go macho man on their kids to fight cavities.”

Lucky for me, Dougie won’t see that episode; he’d rather be camping than watching television.  

 

This article was published in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Canoeroots’ print and digital editions here.

 

Butt End: Uncivilized Behaviour

Photo: Rick Snowdon
Butt End: Uncivilized Behaviour

True, proper wilderness trip preparation should plan for a range of eventualities, but I’m not feeling too badly about the reason we’re stranded on this beach. The bush pilot scheduled to pick us up today was arrested yesterday for being involved in a pornography scandal. I’m not sure I could have seen that one coming.

Now our crew of six paddlers is waiting as patiently as the cold and wet will allow for another pick-up, which we were told could be two or three more days. Our food supply consists of half a bag of GORP, a package of instant potatoes, a dozen prunes, and, possibly, a trusting cottontail who’s hanging around our camp looking for companionship.

I hope the float plane pilot is a law-abiding Baptist minister with a family filter on his web browser 

The battery in our satellite phone is on its death bed because one of our group insisted on calling his wife twice a day throughout the trip for conversations that usually ended in heated marital discussions at four dollars a minute; another is green from trying to drown his sorrows with the majority of our spirits; and we were informed by the air service that the tires on both shuttle vehicles we left parked at the end of an 80-kilometre dirt road were slashed by some local militants who had a dislike for canoeists intruding on their secret fishing grounds. 

It’s not a good day. The truth is, it’s not been a good week. We’ve been paddling upstream the entire trip, when there was enough water to actually paddle. Water levels were low enough that we left a trail of Royalex shavings on the river bed like Hansel and Gretel leaving bread crumbs through the Black Forest. The only way out is to paddle six more days or wait for another float plane to arrive. I hope it’s flown by a law-abiding Baptist minister with a family filter on his web browser. 

I spend a lot of time travelling the bush, and I spend my fair share of time worrying about marauding bears, violent storms and becoming hopelessly lost. Never have I worried about being stranded in the wilderness with an overly communicative husband and a tapped-out drunk due to a pervert and some insecure fishermen.

I guess it just goes to show you that the ugliness you’re trying to escape back home can still reach you out here. I think I’ll stop worrying so much about bears, storms and getting lost. 

This article on trip preparedness was published in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Betcha Didn’t Know About… Bats

Photo: www.super3.net
Betcha Didn't Know About... Bats
  • Bats are the only mammals that can fly.
  • There are 900 species of bat worldwide. Seventeen can be found in Canada.
  • The little brown bat inhabits all U.S. states and Canadian provinces and territories except Nunavut.
  • Batman is a DC Comics superhero who first appeared in 1939. His true identity is Bruce Wayne, a bumbling billionaire philanthropist who created his crime-fighting alter-ego after his parents were murdered.
  • Bats rest hanging upside down so they just have to let go to take flight.
  • The term “corking a bat” usually refers to something baseball players do to lighten their bats and speed up their swing.
  • An average little brown bat weighs only 8 grams but has a wingspan of 22 centimetres.
  • The not-so little penis of the little brown bat is nearly a quarter of its body length.
  • Bats hunt by emitting high-pitched screeches and honing in on prey by listening for the echos bouncing off flying insects (hence the big ears).
  • The little brown bat eats by flipping insects into its mouth with its wings. It can catch and eat 10 insects a minute and consume an amount equal to its own weight in one night.
  • Bruce Wayne took in a 16-year-old orphaned circus acrobat named Dick Grayson, who became his sidekick, Robin.
  • Ten years is an average lifespan for the little brown bat, but one banded specimen in Ontario reached an age of 35 years.
  • Disturbing a hibernating bat costs it the energy it would use during 60 days of hibernation.
  • Unlike many superheroes, Batman does not possess superpowers. To wage his war on crime, he employs his keen intellect and has trained himself in chemistry, criminology, forensics, martial arts, gymnastics, disguise, escapology and ventriloquism, or so says Wikipedia. 

This article on bats was published in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Editorial: Travel With Loaded Canoes, Not Paddles

Photo: Don Stanfield
Editorial: Travel With Loaded Canoes, Not Paddles

Earlier this spring the Lawrence & Memorial Hospital in New London, Connecticut, was locked down while police searched the building for an armed man. Apparently, an emergency department nurse had spotted a double-barrelled shotgun poking out of the top of a worn and tattered backpack. She alerted hospital management, management notified the police, the police called in the SWAT team and the SWAT team took the building—like the final scene in a Bruce Willis action movie.

Meanwhile in the lunchroom, two hospital employees chatted about their weekends. One pulled a black, carbon fibre breakdown kayak paddle from the suspect backpack and thanked his friend for loaning it to him. Then they rinsed their coffee mugs and walked into the hall to start their shifts.

The hospital officials and the authorities called it an honest mistake. Surely the nurse did the right thing reporting what she thought was a shotgun. No charges were laid, though the two hospital workers were asked to leave their paddles at home.

Soon after hearing this story, I was flying from Vancouver to Toronto. I travel light and seldom check any bags. I had just a carry-on, a laptop bag and a canoe paddle. I’d broken the shaft on a river trip last summer and shipped it west for repair; I picked it up while I was in Vancouver to save shipping costs. At the security corral I placed my bags, shoes, keys, coins and my repaired paddle on the conveyor belt and walked through the doorframe to the lady with the wand.

Maybe our new heritage minister should launch a national program designed to put our youth more in touch with this country’s heritage.

Big signs are posted all over the airport, signs showing the items banned from air travel. You can’t board an airplane carrying jackknives, mace, chainsaws, or fire extinguishers. For the record, paddles are not on the sign.

Soon I was kneeling on the carpet in front of a half-dozen security staff who’d gathered around me in a semicircle. None of them knew what I was doing. I said it was the J stroke. Empty faces.

The conveyors were stopped, no one was checking through. People were going to miss flights. “Oh for Christ’s sake,” some guy in a suit shouted from the lineup. “He’s canoeing.”

Now here’s some wonderful irony. Canada’s national carrier doesn’t allow you to carry on a paddle. Yet, for hundreds of years the canoe was the national carrier. I had to explain to the staff of Air Canada that my so-called weapon was not a weapon but a canoe paddle. How sad.

I wonder how Pierre Trudeau, our paddling prime minister, or Beverley J. Oda, our new federal heritage minister, would feel about this. There is no symbol more Canadian than a canoe and paddle.

Maybe our new heritage minister should launch a national program designed to put our youth more in touch with this country’s heritage. After a full royal commission it would be written in a 600-page document that children should go away for a couple of weeks each summer and learn to paddle and explore, by canoe, nearby lakes and rivers. The report would recommend that they go to summer camp, a place where rows of canoes line the water’s edge and racks of weapons, just like mine, are for children to play with so that someday when they are standing in an airport they’ll remember that there are at least two ways to travel across Canada.  

This article on paddles as a flight security risk was published in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

In Parting: The Kayak Cure

Photo: Greg Shea
In Parting: The Kayak Cure

Looking for me on a non-paddling day? I’ll be the one huffing in the bathroom with my finger up my nose.

Let me explain. I recently took a stroll through the land of Google and learned all about negative ions. Negative ions are negatively charged oxygen molecules that are concentrated outdoors in places where water and air get mixed around—surf, whitewater, and most of all waterfalls. The places, that is, where we most like to paddle.

Inhaling these little zingers does good things to our brains and makes us feel relaxed, happy and energized. Apparently these miracle molecules also kill germs and alleviate depression, allergies, asthma and pretty much every other ailment known to medicine while also—try this one on your spouse—boosting sex drive.

In other words, if you have a problem—any kind of problem—you can make a strong case for treating it with regular doses of the kayak cure.

One study found that albino rats breathing more negative ions did a lot more laps on their “activity wheels.” This could be your ticket to an afternoon off work. Just practice saying, Kayaking is proven to enhance workplace productivity, and be sensitive when you explain the part about the pale rat on the wheel to your boss.

Recognize there is some info out there that could weaken your case, like the fact that you can get negative ions from a machine, but don’t worry. Just point out that a good ion generator costs several thousand dollars and a new kayak will seem like a bargain.

More troublesome is the news that that mini-waterfall in your home, the bathroom shower, also produces negative ions. And one “doctor” claims you can increase negative ion intake by breathing really hard through your nose while plugging one nostril (left or right depending which brain hemisphere you want to boost). I figure the negative ion excuse should be good for a few paddling sessions. If that fails, then we can try the nose thing.

Screen_Shot_2015-07-23_at_1.03.01_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Skills: Build Your Own Beach Sauna

Photo: Dave Aharonian
Skills: Build Your Own Beach Sauna

Step 1. Choose site

The ideal sauna site is right next to a good deep-water jumping spot or swimming beach. You also want to be as close as possible to the spot where you will heat your rocks.

Step 2. Collect rocks

Gather several rocks that will withstand extreme heating and cooling. Rocks with moisture-containing cracks or pockets can explode dangerously when heated. For this reason, and to avoid blackening local rocks in a fire, the Bureau of Land Manage- ment in the U.S. advises campers to pack in their own sauna rocks. If gathering your own, look for crystalline igneous rocks or metamorphic rocks that are formed from igneous rock. For the geologically fluent, experts recommend peridotite, olivine, vulcanite and basalt. Stay away from sedimentary rocks such as sandstone or shale and collect your rocks from a dry area.

Step 3. Build sauna

Using a cheap plastic tarp that you don’t mind getting dirty, set up your sauna so there is just enough room for your group to sit inside without touching the hot rocks. Anchor the edges with rocks, logs or sand to create a good seal. Dig a pit in the centre for your rocks. Aim to have only one opening that you can quickly roll closed to keep the heat and steam inside.

Step 4. Light fire

Collect a lot of firewood and light a large fire in an existing fire pit or a low-impact spot. Let the fire burn down to a good bed of hot coals and place your rocks in the coals until they are red hot. Transfer the hot rocks into the sauna using a metal pot or bucket or pairs of strong, forked sticks.

Step 5. Get high

Strip down as bare as you dare, crawl into your sauna and seal the door. To make it a sweat in the native tradition, enter clockwise and exit the way you came in. Don’t forget to bring in water for drinking and extra for sprinkling on the rocks. When you’re ready for a break, make a dash for your swimming spot to complete the thermotherapy routine—hot and cold immersion gives you a natural high and is said to strengthen the immune system. The hot rocks should be good for two or three repeats. If it’s cold out, crawl back inside the lukewarm sauna to dry off after your final plunge.

Step 6. Erase evidence

The beach sauna is not a low-impact technique. Save the sauna for special occasions and suitable places—think ocean beaches, not alpine lakes. Make sure you’re getting rocks from a place where they won’t be missed and throw any blackened or cracked rocks out of sight into deep water. Burn your fire down to white ash and put it out before you leave.

Screen_Shot_2015-07-23_at_1.03.01_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

The Hunt For Sauna Cabins On Lake Superior’s North Shore

Mist rising over Lake Superior
Not the kind of mist we're looking for. | Photo: Rick Mathews

The Finnish Sauna Society, a 3,500-member cultural association created in 1937 to celebrate the steam bath, says loyly is the spirit of the sauna. It’s the humid, steamy heat that rises from moistened sauna stones. In our effort to recreate a true sauna experience on the North Shore of Lake Superior, my paddling buddy Dave and I are looking for maximum loyly.

We put forth our best effort to capture the essence of the sauna at Swede Island. I do fine until we douse the stones with water for the third time. Seventy degrees Celsius of loyly sears my eyeballs, tightens my lungs and leaves me woozy. I feel my heart thumping in my temples.

“Run to the lake?” I gasp. It’s not so much a question as it is a plea. I’m not a Finn, but neither is my paddling buddy Dave. He’s out the door before me and I watch his naked body hurdle our two kayaks with Olympic grace. Soon we’re yelping in ice-cold, Lake Superior-in-May water.

But the torture is addictive. Shortly—it may have something to do with the two-degree lake water—we’re back in the sauna, hooked on loyly like junkies on crystal meth.

“According to Finnish lore,” I tell Dave, “if a sauna, liquor and tobacco don’t help, your condition is fatal.”

“I’d take the first two and trade the smokes for a couple of Scandinavian supermodels,” says Dave. We douse the rocks again and again, and run naked and screaming to the lake another couple times before calling it a night.

When Dave and I pulled into camp at Lake Superior’s Swede Island, we were incredulous with what we’d found. Here we would enjoy our second sauna in four days, and trade our damp tent for the warm, dry confines of a cabin.

Two yellow sea kayaks lie outside small cabin in the woods
The beauty lies within: Swede Island’s sauna. | Photo: Conor Mihell

There are more people of Finnish descent living around northwestern Lake Superior than anywhere outside of Finland, the self-proclaimed “nation of the sauna.” In Finland, there is one sauna for every three people. As Finns immigrated to northwestern Ontario, so did their national bath. Community bathhouses like Thunder Bay’s Kangas Sauna still draw standing room-only crowds most every day of the week. And on Superior’s North Shore islands, at least half a dozen first-come, first-served saunas can be found tucked behind the shoreline greenery like Swede Island’s, which is a tar- and cotton-chinked log classic with a cylinder-shaped stove, cracked window, rickety door and slivery bench.

Between Rossport and Thunder Bay, Ontario, the North Shore of Lake Superior juts out in a 150-km-long series of sizeable islands, massive peninsulas and progressively smaller offshore islets. Simpson and St. Ignace Island lead to the boot-shaped Black Bay Peninsula and the Sibley Peninsula, which takes the form of an 8-km-long, 300-m-tall sleeping giant. In between, there are hundreds of small- to medium-sized islands—similar to Georgian Bay except the crossings tend to be longer, the water icy cold all summer long, and the coastline far less forgiving. For the most part, the area is too isolated and rugged for most pleasure boaters and cottagers; derelict fishing camps and stalwart lighthouses replace cigarette boats and multimillion-dollar summer homes.

There are more people of Finnish descent living around northwestern Lake Superior than anywhere outside of Finland

It wasn’t necessarily wilderness sea kayaking but the siren call of the secret saunas scattered along the way that lured Dave and me into a mid-May trip. We began at the village of Rossport and finished at Silver Islet, a tiny cottage community at the tip of the Sibley Peninsula. We took a week to cover the 130-km-long stretch.

We spent our first night tenting in the rain near Battle Island, and given the weather and our predicament—Dave had somehow managed to turn most of his clothes into sponges—we were dead set on making it to CPR Slip for our second night. Located on the southwestern side of St. Ignace Island, it would be the first stop on our sauna tour. Getting there meant 45 km of cold, wet misery. Had we taken the time to admire the shore, we would’ve noticed bizarre honeycomb-shaped pillars of basalt on Simpson Island’s west side, and we could’ve camped on a number of cobblestone beaches along the way.

We arrived at CPR Slip somewhere between slate-grey skies and pitch blackness—on that day there was no sunset. The Canadian Pacific Railroad shaped a small harbour and built a retreat for its executives here in the 1930s. After it was abandoned, area pleasure boaters (and no doubt Finns) resurrected the four-bed cabin and built the best sauna on the North Shore. It’s well-sealed and features a concrete floor and two-tier seating; and it’s within a 15-m run
 from a prime deep-water jumping place.

Person on kayak on Lake Superior as darkness is falling
Searching for a sauna before the storm. | Photo: Conor Mihell

At 
CPR Slip, as with the other saunas along
the way, good etiquette says you replace any wood that you use and leave the place cleaner than you found it. 
Beyond CPR Slip, good campsites are a dime a dozen on Fluor Island’s southeast
shore. We camped out on our third night 
before hopscotching our way between
 outer islands, paddling by compass in the fog across open water before tracing the narrow, river-like channels between sphagnum-draped Borden and Spain islands. On 
the latter, we found but bypassed a sauna called Bahia Espana—it’s camouflaged and
 hard to spot in the brushy shore.

Then we pretty near circumnavigated Swede Island 
before beaching our boats in a shallow bay
 and stumbling upon a log steam bath and
smallish cabin.

For traditionalists, the process of having 
a sauna isn’t hasty. First off, pronounce it “sow-na,” not “saw-na” as it has been corrupted by North Americans. Gather the a driest wood you can find and heat it slowly.
 Then cut birch whisks that are used in the sauna to slap one’s body to increase blood
 circulation to the skin. These are best harvested in the spring when the leaves stick to the branches more tenaciously and fill the sauna with a pungent, vinegary smell.

Once the sauna is hot—the Finnish Sauna Society recommends 60 to 80 degrees Celsius—strip down and get in. Your birthday suit is always best. Alternate hot sessions with a cold splashes of air and water. Don’t forget loyly. Afterwards, you should feel pleasantly subdued, cleaner than you’ve ever felt before, and you might—if you suffer from an addictive-personality like Dave and me—be hooked on the spirit of the sauna forever.

Old car rusting in the woods.
Porphyry Island cruiser: A relic of government auto allowances for lighthouse keepers. | Photo: Tarmo Poldmaa

On our last night, we gazed across 8 km of Lake Superior between our campsite on Porphyry Island and the Sibley Peninsula—the longest stretch of open water en route. The crossing looked intimidating: Fog swirled over the water’s surface and blended into a blood-red sky, just above the distant yet distinct form of Sibley’s Sleeping Giant.

We’d grown accustomed to the amenities of Swede Island—we’d spent two nights there—and we wondered where we might’ve found other hidden saunas. No doubt there were once more—at the abandoned fish camp on Bowman Island and the active fish camp on Magnet Island, and lurking forgotten behind the few ramshackle cabins we saw along the way; and Ojibwa people did their own kind of sauna on the cobblestones of Wilson Island’s Sweat Lodge Point.

We longed for the smell of hot birch leaves, the steamy head rush of loyly, and to a lesser extent, the euphoric feeling of launching one’s hot, sweaty self into near-freezing water. For a minute, we imagined the mist swirling in the distance was loyly radiating from the biggest steam bath in the world. But returning to our senses, we realized that it was only fog rising from the largest, coldest freshwater lake in the world. On this trip, we would have no more saunas. Darkness fell, and we dragged our feet to the tent.


Trip planner

Outfitters and guided trips
Naturally Superior Adventures
Wawa, ON
1-800-203-9092
Superior Outfitters
Rossport, ON
807-824-3314
Resources
Guide To Sea Kayaking On Lakes Superior & Michigan
Superior: Under The Shadow of The Gods
Charts
2301, 2302, 2303, 2312
Topo maps
52 A/7, 52 A/7, 52 A/9, 42 D/12, 42 D/13

Logistics

Allow one week to 10 days to complete the 130 km between Rossport and Silver Islet. In the summer, paddle from west to east to take advantage of the prevailing westerlies. You can leave vehicles at Silver Islet’s public boat launch or near Rossport Community Centre and run a shuttle—2.5 hours one way—or arrange transport through Superior Outfitters.

Look for good campsites and saunas at McKay’s Harbour on Simpson Island, CPR Slip on St. Ignace Island, Fluor Island (south shore), Borden Island, Spain Island, Swede Island, Number 10 Island and Porphyry Island.

Beware of magnetic disturbances of up to 20 degrees around Magnet Point at the tip of the Black Bay Peninsula.

Difficulty

Lots of open water and the potential for southerly winds and large seas, not to mention a shortage of easy landings in rough water, make this route one of the most challenging on the Great Lakes. There are several crossings longer than 5 km and the longest, between Porphyry Island and Sibley Peninsula, is eight.

The North Shore is remote and isolated. Early or late in the season—sometimes even in mid-summer—you could go days without seeing another person. Come equipped with emergency rations and a good VHF marine radio.

When to go

Lake is Superior is calmest in May, June, July and early August; expect to be windbound one day per week during this time. You’ll experience more fog early in the paddling season and less predictable weather from mid-August on.

Water temperatures hover near freezing until July and often remaining uncomfortably cold throughout the summer. Drysuits or wetsuits are highly recommended.

Access

Silver Islet is about a 1.5-hour drive northeast of Thunder Bay, Ontario via highways 17 and 587; Rossport is located on highway 17, about 2.5 hours east of Thunder Bay. There are no intermediate access points.

This article was first published in Adventure Kayak‘s Summer 2006 issue. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here , or browse the archives here.


Conor Mihell is a kayak instructor and guide who is living in Wawa until his Finnish citizenship comes through.

Not the kind of mist we’re looking for. | Photo: Rick Mathews