With over 1,200 miles of canoeable lakes and rivers, you could spend a lifetime exploring the pristine waters and rugged portage trails of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Regardless of whether that’s your plan or if you just want a taste of what the North Woods has to offer, you’ll need some ideas for where to start. Here you’ll find the best Boundary Waters routes, across a variety of trip lengths.
Use your imagination and be honest about your paddling skills and fitness when studying maps to plan a Boundary Waters canoe trip. Remember to think about your expectations; for example, do you want the focus of the trip to be fishing, relaxing, having fun as a family, or pushing yourself to cover distance? Then develop an itinerary to match.
Local outfitters are your best source of route information. They know the lay of the land and can recommend the perfect route for your experience level and expectations. The trips below make for great starting points, but don’t be afraid to make adjustments to create what is truly the “best” Boundary Waters canoe trip for you.
Once you’ve selected your route, it’s time to secure your permit. Permits for the Boundary Waters are based on entry points and can be reserved online in advance for trips taking place between May 1 and September 30. A self-serve registration system is used at entry points during the rest of the year.
Venture into the Boundary Waters, if only for a day. | Photo: Paul Vincent
Best Boundary Waters day trips
Sawbill Lake and surrounding lakes
If you only have a half-day, explore the Sawbill Lake area. It’s a great entry point for all experience levels, including beginners. Start at Sawbill and then take the short, easy portages over to Alton, Kelso or Smoke lakes. You might see moose, loons, eagles and beavers. Look for gnarled, weathered trees growing out of rock, tamaracks, bog flora, various mosses and intriguing glacial erratic boulders.
[ View all Minnesota paddling adventures in the Paddling Trip Guide ]
Clearwater and Mountain lakes
If you have the whole day to explore, paddle Clearwater Lake on the eastern side of the wilderness area. A quick portage to Mountain Lake will add to your adventure. You will find towering cliffs, inspiring scenery, crystal-clear water and abundant wildlife along this historic voyageur trail.
If I portage today am I less a whitewater paddler than I was before? | Feature photo: Ben Kitching/Unsplash
One of the loneliest places in the world is in the slow drift leading into a stiff rapid. The quiet and calm, the river’s current compressing and picking up speed, and a roaring horizon line falling away in the near distance. It’s not a spot for second thoughts, but in that instant I often wonder—is this what defines a whitewater paddler? And what about the rapids we choose not to run?
Portaging doesn’t make you less of a whitewater paddler
The lip of a rapid is a favorite place for me, although it feels exposed—the commitment having already been made but still waiting for the show to begin. This is especially the case today, on a solo wilderness raft trip. The Petawawa is a personal favorite. It’s a drop-and-pool river with slow, smooth entries leading into short and steep ledges or long and technical boulder gardens. I’ve run it every year for the last 15 years, but today feels different.
We river runners are a peculiar lot, we are dedicated to our skill-intensive craft that takes us to inaccessible but beautiful places. That we use the word “we”—as in we see ourselves as a unique group—is predicted by what sociologists refer to as social identity theory.
Social identity refers to how we grow to define ourselves as individuals by choosing to be a part of a certain group. When we buy into a group, in this case calling ourselves whitewater paddlers, social identity goes on to predict that we also adopt that group’s values and behaviors. It’s why paddlers wear Gore-Tex, chug booty beers and talk about going to church. Group values and sentiments become our own. As the academic S. Alexander Haslam writes, “We are motivated to live up to norms and to achieve goals that are relevant to our self-definition.”
Under pressure. | Photo: Rob Faubert
Proving yourself on the Petawawa
The Petawawa through Algonquin Park is a classic canoe trip with a couple portages. In an oar rig, it becomes stellar class III, with one notable exception. It is this exception that dogs my thoughts. Crooked Chute is a real rapid. Its long technical entry compresses and tips downward, into a steep and fast full 90-degree turn that needs to set up threading big holes, finishing with a long run out full of demanding moves between pinning rocks. At high water it’s a full class V, at medium flows a beefy IV with mandatory hole hits, and at low water a technical class IV. At a high water class V it’s a portage every time, no question, given the remote setting. The low water IV I’m perfectly comfortable with, as rowing rapids of technical difficulty is my thing. It’s the in-between I’m worried about.
For the first day and a half on the river I find myself worrying over what the water level will be at Crooked. I scan for clues in the early rapids as to what it will be like farther downstream. In camp the first night I fall asleep rehearsing the different lines in my mind, nervous for the beefy hole punching.
Weird. I rarely worry about what’s downstream. I ask myself what it is I’m fretting over, visiting the usual suspects: getting old, becoming risk averse, losing my skills. It’s none of these. What I am worried about is making the call between a beefy IV and a too-beefy IV. Why has this routine scouting decision become a conflict? This is where social identity comes in.
If I portage today am I less a whitewater paddler than I was before? | Feature photo: Ben Kitching/Unsplash
Whitewater is who we are
I’m a river person. Rivers have shaped what I do, where I live and what I believe. I identify myself as a river guide and a whitewater paddler, even though what used to be 200 days a year on the oars is now more like 20, half of which are on class II fly fishing rivers.
My conflict? If I decide that a rapid is over my head, does that mean I can still claim membership in the whitewater guild? That I’ve run the rapid every trip before this only makes me more self-conscious. If I portage today am I less a whitewater paddler than I was before? This is ridiculous, of course, and the pressure is entirely self-imposed. It is a solo trip, after all.
[ Plan your next whitewater paddling adventure with the Paddling Trip Guide ]
On the portage around Crooked Rapid I have a lot of time to think. Whitewater is not just what we do but who we are. Deciding a rapid is too tough today has little to do with my identity. As a river runner I believe the worth of any one rapid is only as good as the whole river trip it contributes to.
A whitewater paddler from start to end
The entry float into a big rapid may be a lonely place, but I take solace in knowing I’m part of a bigger group. It’s a group of people who run rivers from put-in to take-out. Sometimes we run every drop along the way; often we don’t. Either way, it’s okay. Membership in this tribe isn’t based on a single stunt, but a lifestyle, moving us from shore to shore, seeking flow.
If I portage today am I less a whitewater paddler than I was before? | Feature photo: Ben Kitching/Unsplash
On June 7-12, 2022 we saw a return of one of the paddling community’s favorite summer events: the GoPro Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado. The annual event hosts over 30 competitions spanning 11 disciplines–everything from climbing and slacklining to photography and dog aquatics (yes, you read that right).
It’s no surprise that for us water enthusiasts, the most entertaining parts were the 9 paddlesports events. Here’s a recap of the best action from the past week, in case you missed it.
The Homestake Creek race attracts expert kayakers from all over the world. Photo by Rick Lohre.
June 8 | TINCUP Steep Creek Championships
The first paddling event of the competition–the TINCUP Steep Creek Championships–kicked off on Wednesday morning at Homestake Creek (located just outside the town of Red Cliff, Colorado).
Due to the race course’s steep, creeky character—it’s approximately ¼ mile long and drops a whopping 480′ per mile—this event presents the most hazards of all the kayaking competitions.
13 expert kayak competitors stepped up to the challenge, hoping to take home a piece of the impressive $7,000 prize purse.
Dane Jackson, a welcome and familiar face at the Mountain Games, managed to snag first place with a combined run time of 03:53:70.
Thursday’s GoPro Gore IV Challenge & GMC Kayak Freestyle Qualifiers had the crowds oohing and ahhing all day long. Photo by Rick Lohre.
June 9 | GoPro Gore IV Kayak Challenge & GMC Kayak Freestyle Qualifiers
The Gore IV Kayak Challenge offers a nice alternative for those looking for mellower whitewater than Homestake Creek. This race’s difficulty doesn’t lie in its gnarly features, but in its sheer length. It’s a 4.5-mile race down a class III-IV continuous creek that flows through the village.
The Jackson siblings took first place in both Men’s and Women’s categories. Dane Jackson crossed the finish line with a time of 23:23:37, while Emily came in at 24:55:03. See the full results for the Men’s and Women’s Gore IV Challenge.
Arguably the main–and most visually spectacular–event of the games, is the Kayak Freestyle competition. The world’s best playboaters come together in an old-fashioned throw-down at the Vail Whitewater Park.
Each kayaker has a timed run to throw his best cartwheels, loops, tricky-wu’s, phonics monkeys, space godzilla’s and more in an attempt to impress the judges for the highest combined score.
This year’s competition had a great turnout with 21 men and 5 women competing in the qualifiers. The top 5 women and the top 10 men advanced to the finals. Keep reading to see how they got on.
Two-person teams had the chance to showcase their speed, agility and aggression in a timed qualifying run through the heart of Vail Village on Gore Creek. Photo by Zach Mahone.
June 10 | Pacifico Raft Cross
Fun for rafters and spectators, the Pacifico Raft Cross combines the speed of downriver sprints with the water slaughter of 8-Ball. Two-person teams showcased their speed and agility in a times race through Vail Village on Gore Creek.
“Team Gorbie” (comprised of Dane Jackson and Nick Troutman) took the win with “Team Bush” (comprised of Riley Frank Jacob McConne) close behind in second place. Get the full results from this event here.
Crowds huddle on the International Bridge for the “main event”. Photo by John Ryan Lockman.
June 11 | GMC Kayak Freestyle
Large crowds gathered around the International Bridge in the heart of Vail on Saturday for what many consider the main act: the GMC Kayak Freestyle finals.
Emily Jackson and brother Dane Jackson have dominated the games in the past few years and 2022 brought no surprises in that regard. Both siblings won their respective competitions with impressive final runs.
Dane finished with a combined score of 1415.00–an over 400-point lead on the second-place competitor, Stephen Wright. Emily finished with a combined score of 630 points. Olivia McGinnes came in at second with a score of 600. Get the full results for the men’s category here and the women’s category here.
Paddleboarders put their speed and skills to the test in the Gore Creek downriver race against the clock. Photo by Julie Lohre.
June 12 | YETI Down River SUP Sprint
As we can see from the attendance and crowd support this year, the YETI Down River SUP is gaining traction and is quickly becoming a fan favorite.
Starting in East Vail, the 3-mile head-to-head race brought standup paddlers into the heart of Vail, where they put their speed and skills to the test on the class II-III rapids of Gore Creek.
Spencer Lacy took home first place in the men’s category with a winning time of 00:20:13.43, closely followed by Miles Harvey in second place with a time of 0:20:19.70.
In the women’s division, Chloe Harvey won her spot at the top of the podium with a finish time of 21:55.87, followed by Reta Boychuck in second place with a time of 22:06.14.
Get the full men’s and women’s here. Catch the Junior SUP results here.
The 8-ball kayak race is the definition of full-contact kayaking. Competitors consider themselves lucky if they get through this one carnage-free.
After floating to the start at the Covered Bridge, a handful of competitors shoved and sprinted their way down a 200-meter sprint course on narrow Gore Creek. Boaters had to avoid being knocked off course by the “8 Ballers”— described by event organizers as, “loathsome kayakers in full body armor waiting patiently to attack the sprinters”.
Emily Jackson nudged, jostled and charged her way into first place in the women’s final—achieving a triple crown title in all her events. For the men’s division, London Aguon won first place, with Nick Troutman coming in second and Dane Jackson securing third.
So you want to try a northern paddling trip? | Feature photo: Peter Mather
Northern rivers offer adventurous paddlers an experience unlike anything they can find further south—truly epic trips through dramatic, untamed landscapes. But northern paddling involves a higher level of difficulty than other trips. A decade of Quetico Park canoeing won’t prepare you for the Far North, so don’t get in over your head! From essential skills to trip planning tips, this expert advice from experienced wilderness paddlers will help you prepare when the wild north awaits.
Canoeing an Arctic river is like canoeing a southern river, with these exceptions: the water is bitterly cold, a capsize can be fatal; distances are deceptive, an open water crossing that appears to be a quarter-mile may be 20; continuous rapids, wider and more powerful rivers; there is no turning back once the floatplane drops you off. Build experience slowly on challenging southern rivers, tripping when the water is cold and the weather is bad. Read every canoeing book and publication you can find. It takes time to develop respect for a powerful northern river—don’t rush it.
Most important, make your first trip with an experienced guide. If you have strong basic canoeing skills, can turn the other cheek to bad weather and persistent bugs, and have a high tolerance for portaging long distances and paddling many hours without sleep—you’ll learn a lot and come back smiling.
— CJ
So you want to try a northern paddling trip? | Feature photo: Peter Mather
2 How much time?
Twenty to 50 miles a day is reasonable on placid water where there are few portages. But it’s a recipe for disaster in the unknown. Figure an average of 15 miles per day and allow one day in five for bad weather and the unexpected. If you anticipate many rapids and portages, reduce the mileage even more.
It’s wise to make a daily travel plan with your projected miles per day based on the obstacles along your route. On trip, keep track of your actual miles so you know if you’re ahead of or behind schedule.
If a storm plays havoc with your schedule, your best plan is to camp and wait for favorable weather, then make up lost time when the weather improves. The sun sets late in the Far North so you can paddle well into the night.
— CJ
3 How much will it cost?
About 80 percent of your cost is transportation. For this reason, a longer trip may actually be less expensive than a shorter one.
For example, say you plan to canoe the Hood River in Nunavut. You’ll drive to Yellowknife where you’ll charter a Twin Otter. You can begin at the headwaters of the Hood near Takijuk Lake, or at Point Lake about 200 miles to the south. If you begin at Point Lake, you’ll eliminate about 400 miles of flying—at roughly $12 per mile, that’s a savings of $4,800! But you will need more time to canoe the river.
You can also save big by using folding canoes (like the Pakboats PakCanoe 170) that fit inside your chartered airplane. On an Alaskan trip, our crew of six eliminated one flight and saved $2,100 this way.
Other costs include auto fuel, food and maps. For a 400-mile trip, you may need a dozen 1:50,000 scale maps at $12 apiece. Bush roads are tough on cars; plan to replace a tire or windshield. Equipment also takes a beating.
Is it worth the high price to canoe a remote Arctic river? The first time you see a herd of muskoxen or mingle among a thousand caribou, you’ll know you’ve spent your money well.
— CJ
[ Plan your next northern paddling adventure with the Paddling Trip Guide ]
4 pro tips for your northern paddling trip
1 Beat the bugs
If you think the bugs are bad in southern paddling parks, don’t go to the Barren Lands—at least not without a good dose of know-how, self-composure and bug dope.
Two of the best non-toxic repellents are Repel oil of lemon eucalyptus and Biteblocker Organic Xtreme. I don’t use DEET—it melts plastic, so why would you put it on your skin?
Both garlic and vitamin C have excellent properties as antihistamines, relieving the effects of bug bites but doing little to prevent the actual bombardment. In fact, garlic, like bananas, contains potassium—and that’s a bug attractant.
Above the treeline, the paddling window enjoys little respite from the onslaught of blackflies. | Photo: Adobe Stock
Research your choice of landscape. Forested areas generally have avoidable seasons for blackflies, mosquitoes, ticks, deerflies and horseflies. Above the treeline, the paddling window enjoys little respite from the onslaught of blackflies.
Wear loose, light-colored clothing and a bug jacket. A bug tent will preserve your sanity in camp. Commercial bug awnings can be slung from trees; in the Arctic you’ll also need poles, extra guy-lines and hefty pegs.
Biting insects are attracted to carbon dioxide and chemicals found in perspiration. If you sweat easily and work hard, the bugs will be worse. So, if none of this works…try carrying a live chicken under your arm while humming middle “C”.
Putting together a tight, well-rounded and workable group is a lot of work and you’ll do well to remember these commandments.
Compatibility: A good crew is invested in the safety and happiness of all its members—there’s no room for selfishness, insensitivity or arrogance. Friends often get along better than random family members—old scars and residual animosities may blossom again under strain.
Experience: This can be tricky, each person needs to make an honest assessment of his or her abilities. If you’re doing whitewater or big, cold lakes then you better have at least one experienced paddler in each canoe and spend the first day training the others.
Judgment: Maturity and level-headedness are more critical than technical proficiency. A crew member who knows when to portage is far better than one who is eager to tackle every rapid.
Rationale: Why do you want to go? Is this a journey or a competition? Find out what everyone hopes to get out of the trip, make sure these goals are harmonious, and develop a trip philosophy agreeable to all.
Size: On remote northern rivers, a group of six is safest—this provides ample room if you lose a canoe in a rapid. Otherwise, a group of four offers the optimum blend of safety, harmony, easy food prep and campsite selection, and availability of group members. Larger than six, and you’ll almost certainly have compatibility issues.
There’s really no reason to carry a gun on any canoe trip, even those in Alaska and the Northwest Territories. The exception might be if you’ll canoe where grizzly and polar bear encounters are common. Most recommended is a 12-gauge pump shotgun, with high-performance slugs. The compact Marlin Guide rifles in .450 Marlin and .45-70 caliber are also popular. A waterproof gun case is essential, tie the case into your canoe so it won’t be lost if you capsize. Check state, provincial and park regulations before you pack heat—some areas prohibit firearms.
— CJ
A floatplane sits and awaits its next charter in Whitehorse, Yukon. | Photo: Kristina Delp/Unsplash
4 Getting to the river
By car: Drive the “Dumpster” highway or Wollaston Lake tote road and you’ll see why the most important person on a canoe trip is an auto mechanic! You need high clearance, two full-size spare tires and a bug screen. Trailers should have minimum 15-inch wheels and spares.
By floatplane: Until recently, if you had a party of six, a Twin Otter was the cheapest way to fly because everything fit inside the airplane. For safety reasons, some companies will no longer fly passengers and canoes together. Smaller planes—Single Otters, Caravans and Beavers—will carry just one canoe on the floats.
Tip: Communicate with airplanes up to about 15 miles away using a handheld VHF aircraft radio (a marine radio won’t work). Get your pilot’s radio frequency when you book your flight. The emergency channel is 121.5 MHz.
By train: Bush trains will often—but not always—stop at a requested mile marker to take on and let off passengers. Call the nearest stationmaster for details, and book tickets in advance. Unless you are on the roster, even remote bush trains may steam right past your frantic waves.
Tip: Canoes accompanied by their owners are usually considered excess baggage and travel for about the same fare as a passenger.
By boat: If you end your trip on Hudson Bay, the safest plan is to charter a boat to Arviat or Churchill. Bring a CB radio so you can talk to your boat captain and get his channel information before you leave home.
First you need to find the portage. On a river, if your map doesn’t show which side the portage is on, select the shore with lower elevation or less vegetation. The path of least resistance is most often the correct one. For the same reason, portages are usually located on the inside of river bends.
On a wilderness river where the trail is unsure, carry light gear over the portage, then return for the canoes and heavy packs—or better yet, scout the trail before you portage anything.
Portages on remote rivers within the treeline are seldom marked or maintained. First walk the portage with a map, compass, GPS, folding saw and roll of yellow surveyor’s tape. Flag confusing turns and saw limbs that can hang up a canoe. Last person over the trail collects the yellow ribbon.
In the treeless tundra, carry canoes and packs to a distant spot and stack in a pile. Place paddles upright in the pile to act as flags. Continue portaging from pile to pile until everything is across. Choose brightly colored packs and canoes—drab colors blend into the tundra.
Don’t carry a second pack on your chest—falls follow when you can’t see your feet. Instead, equip your packs with tumplines so you can carry everything on your back.
Pack in odd units—three or five packs per canoe, not two or four. This will equalize the number of trips you and your partner make over the portage.
Every team takes responsibility for the gear in their canoe and inventories it at the end of the portage. To avoid confusion, don’t shift items from boat to boat or portage another canoe’s gear unless you tell the occupants.
Topographical maps are your lifelines on a wilderness canoe trip. A GPS is not a substitute for paper maps! Experienced trippers rely on 1:250,000 scale maps; aging eyes prefer more detailed 1:50,000 maps.
Before you go, mark the miles on your maps. I mark every four miles on 1:250,000 maps and each mile on 1:50,000 maps. This works out to a mark roughly every inch. Since the average speed of a loaded tripping canoe is four miles—or one inch—per hour, this makes it easy to keep track of your progress in the field. If you keep an eye on your watch, you’ll seldom be far off schedule.
Next, determine the drop of the river. Label the elevations where each contour line crosses the river and indicate whether the elevation is in meters or feet. Make a table like the one in the example. Note how many feet per mile the river drops between contour intervals. Generally, a drop of less than 10 feet per mile is easy paddling, more than 15 and things can get hairy.
The average speed of a loaded tripping canoe is four miles per hour. | Photo: Brad/Unsplash
River size matters—a small, shallow river with a drop of 40 feet per mile and constant gradient may be runnable while a big river with the same drop is not. And, of course, it depends on how the drop is distributed—as an even descent or by a series of falls.
Map rules:
The closer together the contour lines, the greater the drop. Tightly spaced contour lines that cross the river indicate a falls; parallel to the river represent a canyon.
The closed “V” end of a contour line always points upstream.
The contour interval (CI) is given in the map margin. The larger the CI, the less clear the characteristics of the river.
On broad, continuous northern rivers, the backferry is an essential tool. It allows you to pick you way through large waves without taking on water. If you master this technique, you won’t need a spray deck, even in solid class III rapids. Retrieving a swamped canoe with a spray deck is much more difficult and this outfit can be a real pain if there are many portages, not to mention the extra 10 pounds in material.
Back ferries can also buy you time in a rapid to boat scout and assess your next move. You can save a lot of scouting time on sections where you feel comfortable using this technique. Remember, it’s easiest to back ferry from a stronger current towards a weaker one; for example, from the outside of a river bend to the slower flow on the inside of the curve.
As for a front ferry, the downstream partner—in this case, the bow paddler—sets the angle. This can be achieved using a reverse J stroke or reverse sweep stroke. The stern paddler simply provides power, back paddling against the current.
If your ferry angle becomes too open, the best way to recover it is for the bow paddler to use either a cross draw or back draw. Most people need more practice with these strokes— excellent descriptions are found in Paul Mason and Mark Scriver’s Thrill of the Paddle (p.58–59, Key Porter Books). Even though these strokes don’t generate reverse momentum, you will recover the angle much faster. And, if you end up losing it, you still have the option to switch to a front ferry.
When running a long, powerful rapid is too risky and portaging would be strenuous and time consuming, lining is often the best option.
The cardinal rule of lining is to keep the upstream end of the canoe closer to shore than the downstream end. Otherwise, the current will catch the upstream end and swing the canoe broadside out into the main channel. The trickiest part comes when you have to cross reactionaries, or diagonal breaking waves. For a few seconds, the upstream end needs to be further from shore in order to swing the canoe perpendicularly through the wave. If it isn’t perpendicular, the canoe will flip and get sucked into the main current.
Lining requires skill, agility and coordination. Good communication is imperative if you’re lining with two people. If the shore allows you to walk down with the canoe, you may prefer to handle both ropes alone. The length of your ropes is very important. Twenty feet of rope on the downstream end and 30 feet upstream works well for most terrain. Make loops alternately on each side of your hand with the extra rope, so you can let go just what you need and still keep a good hold on the rest. Longer ropes, like your throw bag, are difficult to handle and, if you drop them, can more easily become entangled.
After you’re done, be sure to take 30 seconds to safely stow the lining ropes so you won’t get caught up in them if you dump.
— EL
Alaska’s Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. | Photo: National Park Service, Alaska Region
Where to go paddling in the north
Seasoned northern paddlers share their favorite routes and dream destinations:
Hood, Mountain and Moisie rivers.
Dream trip: entire Back River.
— Gail Shields
Finlay, Churchill, Turnagain/Kechika, Gataga/Kechika,
Porcupine/Fond du Lac, Seal and Tatshenshini/Alsek rivers.
Wish list: Grand Canyon of the Liard, Coppermine,
Horton, Bonnett Plume and Kazan rivers.
— Laurel Archer
Mountain, Nahanni, Hood, Firth, Tatshenshini and Natla-Keele rivers.
Wish list: Bonnet Plume, Back and Thomsen rivers.
— Mark Scriver
Thelon, Coppermine, Wolverine River and Nejanilini Lake, Bloodvein, Seal, Hayes, Lady Evelyn and Dumoine rivers. Pigeon, Sasasiginnigak and Leyond rivers (all Manitoba).
Wish list: Kazan River and Hanbury River from Great Slave Lake.
— Hap Wilson
Yukon and Wind rivers.
Wish list: Mountain, Nahanni, Thelon and Back rivers.
— Charlotte Jacklein
Hood River—if you can afford to do just one Arctic river, this is it. Thlewiaza/Thanne, North Knife, Snake, Peel, MacFarland, Kopka, Burnside and South Seal rivers. Caribou River—worst bugs on the planet! Latiseino and Kautikeino rivers, Norway and Finland.
There’s something special about going from headwaters
to ocean, like the Hood and Coppermine rivers.
Dream trip: a Barren Land trip with no blackflies, a flatwater trip with only tailwinds and any trip with the fish biting and blueberries and strawberries ripe at the same time.
— Wally Schaber
This article was first published in the Early Summer 2012 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.
So you want to try a northern paddling trip? | Feature photo: Peter Mather
With 1.1 million acres, 1,175 lakes and 2,000 campsites, there are an endless number of places to visit in the Boundary Waters Wilderness Canoe Area. Plan your backcountry canoe trip around hitting up some of these sites, or choose a resort or cabin that will give you access to great activities.
Paddling ranks top of the list, of course. You can explore access point and nearby lakes by kayak or paddleboard, or use a canoe to head into the heart of the wilderness. That aside, here are some of the other best things to do in the Boundary Waters.
See what you can see at the top of the Eagle Mountain Trail. | Photo: Margret Raasch // @margretraasch
Hiking in the Boundary Waters
Though known for its water trails, the Boundary Waters’ hiking trails are worth the effort. There are 20+ trails near or within the borders of the Boundary Waters. Some are short and sweet, while others require multiple days to complete. You’ll find a mix of loops and out-and-back, as well as those that can only be accessed by paddle. Try the Eagle Mountain Trail—this 3.5-mile hike will take you to the top of Eagle Mountain which is the highest point in Minnesota.
Take in the calming beauty of Lower Basswood Falls. | Photo: Levi Glines // @levi.glines
Boundary Waters waterfalls
The international border between the U.S. and Canada is more defined by stunning waterfalls than a line on the map. The traditional voyageur route along Lac La Croix, Iron and Basswood lakes includes gorgeous cascades like Rebecca, Curtain, Lower Basswood and Upper Basswood falls, making this a great destination for experienced canoe trippers looking for the finest scenery.
There are plenty of much more accessible waterfalls, too, including Fifty Foot Falls near the Limekiln Campground, High Falls near the Rabbit Campground, and Grass River Cascade near the Kekekabic Campground.
Find mesmerizing pictographs for yourself. | Photo: Ed Collier // @ecollierphoto
Boundary Waters pictographs
Ancient pictographs on rock faces along North Woods lakes are a humbling reminder we aren’t the first people to paddle these waters. Indigenous pictographs can be found in numerous places across the Minnesota Boundary Waters, including vivid images at North Hegman Lake that are estimated to date back 500 to 1,000 years. Pictographs should be visited with utmost respect; avoid touching these important cultural sites.
Witness the glory of the Northern Lights. | Photo: Alex Falconer // @alexfalconrt
Aurora borealis Boundary Waters
Dark skies and a northern latitude make the Boundary Waters a great place to view the aurora borealis. Late summer and autumn are best, with activity usually peaking around midnight. NOAA Space Weather provides an accurate short-term forecast for the aurora borealis around the world.
Reel in a fish or two. | Photo: Brian Hallberg // @brian_hallberg
Boundary Waters fishing
An entire article could be written about fishing in the Boundary Waters. Northern Minnesota contains some of the best fishing opportunities on the planet, and there’s no better way to find big fish than to get off the beaten track by traveling in a canoe. You’ll find great fishing for smallmouth and largemouth bass, northern pike, and walleye across the region.
[ View all Boundary Waters Canoe Area trips in the Paddling Trip Guide ]
Look for larger lakes, such as Basswood, Saganaga, Seagull and Knife, if you wish to catch lake trout. Don’t be afraid to fish in moving water, too—especially for trophy northerns that lurk in eddies of calm water around rocks.
With so many amazing attractions, it’s hard to narrow down a list of the best places in the Boundary Waters. Like many of the world’s greatest outdoor destinations, every Boundary Waters visitor will have their own favorites.
For extreme solitude, try Rifle Lake, which boasts a single campsite for ultimate seclusion. For iconic freshwater scenery that captures the mood of the Boundary Waters, paddle into Knife Lake, along the U.S.-Canada border. For outstanding fishing, wet a line in Seagull Lake. For easy access, float the Kawishiwi River. For islands, try Saganaga Lake. Lastly, for a taste of this region’s rich Indigenous past, visit the pictographs on North Hegman Lake.
Are you looking for a touch of luxury in the wilderness? There are many options for Boundary Waters accommodations, providing comfortable base camps to stay and do day trips, go on hikes and participate in other outdoor activities. You’ll find both classic cabins and all-inclusive resorts. For a unique experience, try Boundary Waters glamping—that is, glamorous camping.
Drive-in campgrounds are also available in the region for tent camping and RVs. Most Boundary Waters accommodations are located on the water, so they’re perfect for day paddling. A stay at a cabin or resort is also a great reward upon finishing a backcountry canoe trip.
Boundary Waters cabin rentals are a good option for those looking for do-it-yourself accommodations. You get your own private space—often with simple cooking facilities, or the option of lodge-based meals if you’d rather not cook—in wonderful locations. If you’re truly looking to DIY, start by checking out vacation rentals in Ely on VRBO.
Many outfitters offer cabin rentals and canoe trip planning services, allowing you to design a more complete vacation. One example is Seagull Outfitters, which has cabins on one of the Boundary Waters’ best lakes, located on the east side of the wilderness and accessed off of Highway 61. Tuscarora Lodge and Canoe Outfitters is another operator that combines accommodations with canoe trip planning, rentals and outfitting, also located on Seagull Lake.
[ View all Boundary Waters Canoe Area trips in the Paddling Trip Guide ]
Cabin rentals also make for a great base camp if you’re looking for more comfortable accommodations to set off on day trips. One example is Fenske Lake Cabins, which offers private waterfront cabin rentals near Ely, on the edge of the Boundary Waters. Vosburgh’s Custom Cabin Rentals also offers a wide array of vacation rentals near Ely that are perfect for paddlers. Meanwhile, Gunflint Lodge, one of the oldest establishments in the area, located on the Gunflint Trail on the east side of the Boundary Waters, offers three rustic, pet-friendly cabins as well as a luxe waterfront lodge.
The Boundary Waters supports dozens of well-established resorts for a more all-inclusive wilderness retreat. Many are geared to support paddlers, anglers and general outdoor enthusiasts, and all include great services—such as meals, canoe and boat rentals, guided tours and outfitting packages—to make your vacation easy to plan and enjoy.
Start your search for an amazing northern Minnesota vacation with these great Boundary Waters resorts:
River Point Resort & Outfitting Co.
River Point Resort & Outfitting Co. is a family-run resort on the South Kawishiwi River and Birch Lake, near Ely. The facility is equally attractive to anglers seeking world-class walleye, northern pike and bass, canoe trippers wishing to start or finish their Boundary Waters adventure in style, and families looking for a comfortable way to experience the outdoors.
Rockwood Lodge and Outfitters
Rockwood Lodge and Outfitters provides everything you need on the Gunflint Trail. Rockwood has a lodge, cabins and a rustic bunkhouse for no-frills accommodations. The company also offers full canoe trip planning and outfitting.
La Tourell’s
La Tourell’s is a long-standing fishing and canoe trip outfitter with lodge facilities on Moose Lake, east of Ely. It holds the distinction of being the closest lodge to the Boundary Waters, located at the end of the road and just outside of the wilderness area.
Grand Ely Lodge
The Grand Ely Lodge is a little bit different, offering an impressive facility with cozy rooms and upscale amenities, including a swimming pool and full restaurant.
Not quite ready for wilderness camping? Get a taste of the Boundary Waters at a Minnesota campground. There are six campgrounds in Superior National Forest, including:
Cadotte Lake – 27 sites
Birch Lake – 30 sites and two cabins
Fall Lake – 64 sites, and a favorite for RV campers
Fenske Lake – 16 sites, all tent camping
South Kawishiwi River – 33 sites, including one group site that accommodates up to 35 people
Whiteface – 30 sites, plus group sites and a walk- or paddle-in backcountry campsite
Canoe Country Outfitters Campground is located on Moose Lake, 20 miles east of Ely, and a popular entry point for Boundary Waters canoe trips. Canoe rentals, cabins, electrical sites and showers are available, as well as laundry facilities, sauna and a convenience store.
Timber Trail Campground
Timber Trail Campground features a mix of waterfront campsites and secluded forested campsites, all with water and electric hook-ups. Tent and RV sites are available, as well as waterfront cabins.
Located on Flour Lake, Golden Eagle Lodge and Campground has nine sites for tents or RVs with water and electric hook-ups. The resort features 10 waterfront cabins and a main lodge.
Glamping is “glamorous camping”—a cross between lodge-based accommodations and tenting. For Boundary Waters glamping check out Ely’s Riverside Island Campsites, which offers comfortable canvas tents with beds in a remote island setting.
Feature photo: Anthony Pompa // @anthony_pompa @truenorthexp
Take a wilderness vacation in the Boundary Waters! Going guided eliminates the challenge of selecting a route, arranging permits, preparing a menu, and lining up canoeing and camping gear. You’ll also benefit from local knowledge and a more intimate backcountry experience, with the opportunity to learn wilderness skills and travel safely.
Guided trips are perfect for novices, families and individuals looking to join a group. There are plenty of options for Boundary Waters guided canoe trips. Here’s a glimpse of what you have to choose from.
Looking to access the Boundary Waters from the east, via Minnesota’s Highway 61? Border Lakes Tour Company is a Grand Marais-based outfitter that offers a range of day and multiday guided trips, making for the perfect introduction to the Boundary Waters for beginners.
Clearwater Outfitters
Located on the Gunflint trail, Clearwater Outfitters delivers a range of custom guided canoe trips. Bring your own group and objectives and the outfitter will develop an all-inclusive canoe tour that meets your needs. Price per person varies with group size; a four-day trip for four people costs $1,240 per person.
This Ely-based outfitter offers personalized guided canoe trips for groups of up to eight, ranging from two to eight days, with longer expeditions available. Ely Outfitting Company guides will teach you the camping and paddling skills you’ll need for future trips, while providing insight into the local history and your natural surroundings. Price per person varies with group size; a four-day trip for four people costs $870 per person.
[ View all Boundary Waters Canoe Area trips in the Paddling Trip Guide ]
Moose Track Adventures
Consider Ely-based Moose Track Adventures if you’re a diehard angler looking for an all-inclusive, guided Boundary Waters canoe trip with lots of great fishing and an insider scoop. Price per person varies with group size; a four-day trip for four people costs $857 per person.
This long-standing Ely-based outfitter provides custom trips for groups as well as scheduled guided canoe trips with unique themes, including a women’s-only canoe trip, a wolf-howl canoe trip, and a guided canoe trip with special guest Cliff Jacobson, a popular canoe instructor. Prices for a one-week trip range from $1,395 to $1,695 per person. Piragis also offers a practical “Jump Start” guide service, which includes a one-day primer with a professional guide to set you off on a successful trip.
Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply
Based in Grand Marais, Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply offers Boundary Waters canoe day trips starting at $150 per person and a four-day guided kayak camping trip on sprawling Saganaga Lake starting at $725 per person.
Looking for a canoe day trip while visiting Ely? Way to Go Adventures offers half- and full-day outings. Expect to pay $285 for a four-hour, two-person trip and $425 for an eight-hour, two-person trip.
This long-standing Boundary Waters guide service delivers a five-day “classic” canoe trip on Brule and Winchell lakes that lives up to its description. Prices with Wilderness Inquiry start at $775 per person with several departure dates offered through the summer months.
It’s no surprise that Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness is one the world’s preeminent canoe destinations. The Boundary Waters features hundreds of lakes arranged in a manner that makes this vast, 1.1-million-acre wilderness seem like it was purpose-built for canoeing. Tripping choices are endless, with 1,200 miles of canoe routes to travel and 2,000 campsites to pitch your tent on.
Paddling the Boundary Waters provides a glimpse of the quintessential North Woods, with loons calling on crystal-clear freshwater, fish surfacing and mirror-like reflections leaving you in awe. This article covers the Boundary Waters for beginners and seasoned backcountry pros alike.
The Boundary Waters, Minnesota’s premier canoe destination, is a place of superlatives. This section outlines some quick facts to know before you visit the Boundary Waters for yourself.
What are the Boundary Waters?
The Boundary Waters Canoe Area is named for its location along the U.S.-Canada border. In fact, with proper planning and documentation, you can paddle across the border on a wilderness canoe trip. The international border extends nearly 150 miles along the north end of the wilderness area.
The Boundary Waters is equally well-named given its abundance of freshwater, including countless lakes and rivers, large and small. The area is a designated wilderness; there is no Boundary Waters park, however the region is managed by the U.S. Forest Service as part of Superior National Forest.
Where are the Boundary Waters?
The Boundary Waters Canoe Area is located in northern Minnesota, west of Lake Superior and adjacent to the Canadian province of Ontario. Common access points include the town of Ely, Minnesota and the Gunflint Trail via Grand Marais, Minnesota.
Is the Boundary Waters a national park?
The Boundary Waters is not a national park, but it is a federally designated wilderness. The area is overseen by the U.S. Forest Service as part of the Superior National Forest. Voyageurs National Park is located just west of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. Experienced paddlers can plan extended Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness canoe trips that connect with Voyageurs National Park.
How big is the Boundary Waters?
The Boundary Waters officially spans 1.1 million acres, making it the largest U.S. wilderness area east of the Rockies. However, the area is effectively much larger since it blends into neighboring Voyageurs National Park to the west and Canada’s vast Quetico Provincial Park to the north.
How many lakes are in the Boundary Waters?
The Boundary Waters contains a good chunk of Minnesota’s 10,000 lakes. The area has 1,175 lakes, many of which are connected by 1,200 miles of established canoe routes. The overall number of lakes balloons to nearly 2,000 if you include surrounding areas.
When was the Boundary Waters established?
The Boundary Waters was initially protected in 1926. The area was incorporated into the National Wilderness Preservation System in 1964, reflecting its primitive nature and great potential for backcountry adventure.
Is there cell service in the Boundary Waters?
Like any wilderness area, cell service in the Boundary Waters is limited. You have your best chance of getting service in areas adjacent to access points, such as Snowbank Lake, east of Ely. For safety, it’s best to purchase or rent a satellite communication device, such as an inReach, SPOT or satellite telephone for backcountry trips in the Boundary Waters. Be sure you’re familiar with the technology before setting out, and check that your batteries are fully charged.
Though it’s known as the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, kayakers will find plenty of options to paddle in Minnesota’s North Woods. Kayakers are best to seek out areas with larger lakes, and may prefer to paddle in Voyageurs National Park. With a few short portages, kayakers can also access the larger bodies of water of Saganaga, Knife and Crooked lakes along the U.S.-Canada border.
Boundary Waters: canoe vs kayak
Because portaging—that is, carrying your boat and gear overland between bodies of water—is inherent to most Boundary Waters trips, canoes are preferred by most visitors. Canoeing the Boundary Waters is best done with lightweight gear, and that starts with choosing a vessel that won’t slow you down on the many portages. Canoes are also easier to load and better for tandem paddling. Lastly, they’re the traditional way of getting around on ancient Indigenous waterways that have been paddled since time immemorial.
Kayaks, however, are sleeker and more seaworthy—perfect for larger Boundary Waters lakes, especially those along the U.S.-Canada border, where wind and waves can be an issue. If you wish to embark on a Boundary Waters kayak trip, be sure to pack light and plan a trip involving minimal portages and as many large bodies of water as possible. Kayaks are often favored by solo paddlers since they’re easier to handle than canoes and generally more seaworthy on the water. Portage wheels may seem like a great idea for a kayak trip, but this type of “mechanical assistance” is outlawed across much of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
Boundary Waters Canoe Area history
When you visit the Boundary Waters, you are traveling within the traditional home of the Indigenous Ojibwe. In fact, archeologists date some Boundary Waters artifacts to 6,000 BC. In more recent history, the Boundary Waters was central to the travels of European explorers and early colonial settlers, including the French Canadian voyageurs.
The first push to protect the Boundary Waters was a logging ban in 1902, followed by more formal, sweeping protection in 1926. The area was incorporated into the National Wilderness Preservation System in 1964, reflecting its primitive nature and great potential for backcountry adventure. Important milestones include a ban on low-flying aircraft in 1949, and extensive limitations on motorboats and snowmobiles in 1978. The area remains a key battleground in the conservation movement, an important model of a wilderness area in North America, and serves as one of the world’s most popular outdoor destinations.
As a wilderness area, the Boundary Waters is shaped by natural forces. Wildfires have always been a part of this region, but recently Boundary Waters fires have become more common due to climate change. In fact, wildfires closed portions of the Boundary Waters in 2021. The major Pagami Lake fire burned 93,000 acres in 2012.
An abundance of route options and easy access for residents across the Midwest makes the Boundary Waters beloved among canoeists. The area’s greatest highlight is its unique geography of lakes, some which are interconnected and others which are separated by short overland portages. This is picture-perfect canoe country, with options for trips ranging from a weekend to summer-long. Don’t feel like you need to be an expert to visit. There are many canoe routes in the Boundary Waters for beginners.
With so many possible routes you’ll likely want to know how to plan a trip in the Boundary Waters. Start by identifying the amount of time you have for a trip, level of difficulty and expectations. From there, narrow down starting points; research potential routes and talk to local outfitters; look into making backcountry reservations and purchasing permits; get the maps; and acquire the necessary canoes and backcountry camping gear. We’ll go through all these steps in detail.
Boundary Waters entry points
The Boundary Waters has more than 50 numbered entry points for paddlers, scattered around the perimeter of the wilderness area. Each entry point has a set number of permits issued per day, so you may need to adjust your route plan to accommodate the availability of permits.
Here are some popular Boundary Waters canoe entry points, with alternative options (where applicable):
Trout Lake (#1): This entry point provides access to the Boundary Waters from Vermilion Lake, located north of Highway 1. Twelve daily permits are issued for this location.
Crab Lake and Cummings Lake from Burntside Lake (#4): Three permits are issued daily for this paddle-in entry point located northwest of the town of Ely.
Moose Lake (#26) and Snowbank Lake (#27) are located close to one another, with road access east of Ely. Both offer good, immediate access to large lakes, some with portage routes to the expansive bodies of water along the U.S.-Canada border. Moose Lake provides 27 daily permits while eight are available at Snowbank.
Fall Lake (#24) is another entry point close to Ely that provides 14 paddle-in permits per day. If you’re willing to paddle a bit more on Basswood Lake, the Farm Lake entry point (#31) provides similar access, with three daily permits available.
Sawbill Lake (#38) is located off the Sawbill Trail, accessible via Highway 61 on the southeast side of the Boundary Waters. There’s an outfitter located right at the entry point. Eleven daily canoe camping permits are available.
Seagull Lake (#54) entry point is located off the Gunflint Trail, near the Canadian border on the east side of the Boundary Waters, and offers eight daily permits. There’s an outfitter located nearby.
Permits are required for Minnesota Boundary Waters camping, which includes canoeing, kayaking and hiking, between May 1 and September 30. A self-serve registration system is used at entry points for the rest of the year. Permits are based on entry points; individual campsites and lakes cannot be reserved. Each entry point has its own quotas, so be sure to make your reservations as soon as possible. Boundary Waters permits are easy to book online.
Group sizes are limited to nine people per permit. Permits for day paddling are issued on a self-serve basis at entry points and are not subject to quotas. It’s important to note that quotas were reduced in 2022, making it essential to book your peak season Boundary Waters trip in advance.
The fees for 2022 are as follows:
Overnight fees are $16 per person for adults and $8 per person for children and youth under the age of 17.
Reservations are subject to a $32 deposit plus a non-refundable reservation fee of $6.
The full $32 deposit and all other fees are fully refundable if you cancel more than two days before your booked departure. A $32 penalty applies if you cancel the day before or the day of your registration, and overnight fees are refunded.
May to September permits are available for purchase online starting the last Saturday in January.
Permits are non-transferable.
How much does a Boundary Waters trip cost?
The cost of a Boundary Waters canoe trip depends on your canoeing experience, the length of time you’ll be out for and, most importantly, your access to canoes and camping gear. Self-sufficient paddlers and families planning their own route and using their own canoes and equipment can enjoy a Boundary Waters canoe trip for less than $20 per person, per day, covering the cost of permits and vehicle parking.
Anticipate spending $40 to $60 per day for a canoe or kayak rental. If you need full outfitting, which includes camping equipment, camp kitchen gear and meals, expect around $115 per person, per day. Finally, a typical five-day fully guided Boundary Waters canoe trip costs $1,100 per person for a group of four.
When it comes to hard-copy maps for the Minnesota Boundary Waters, paddlers face a Pepsi vs Coke type of dilemma. You have two options: McKenzie Maps or Fisher Maps, both of which cover the entire Boundary Waters Canoe Area and adjacent Voyageurs National Park and Quetico Provincial Park. The difference, as with favorite cola beverages, comes down to personal preference. Fisher Maps provide a bit less detail, but allow you to carry fewer maps than the more focused McKenzie series.
For another, unique option, consider True North Maps. These field-ready maps are screened on fully functional bandanas, providing an additional layer of versatility—and a neat conversation starter around the campfire.
Best Boundary Waters routes
Your canoe trip planning begins with picking the right route. Whether you want to spend a day, weekend, week or month in the wilderness, there’s a route to suit. Get started with our Guide To The Best Boundary Waters Canoe Routes.
Boundary Waters guided canoe trips
First-time canoe trippers and experienced pros alike can benefit from taking a guided canoe trip. All gear and meals will be provided, the route planning will be taken care of, permits will be acquired, and perhaps best of all you’ll gain the valuable insight of your experienced guide. Find out which companies to use in our Best Boundary Waters Guided Canoe Trips article.
Other info
Longest portage in the Boundary Waters
What’s the longest portage in the Boundary Waters? The distinction of the longest portage usually goes to the tough two-mile carry from entry point 20 to Angleworm Lake.
Dogs in the Boundary Waters
Wondering if you can bring your canine pal along on your canoe trip? Good news—dogs are allowed in the Boundary Waters. Leashes are mandatory to keep your dog under control. It’s critical to take responsibility for your pet in the wilderness, to keep them from disturbing the experience of other visitors and harassing wildlife.
For overnight trips, pack dog food in waterproof packaging and be sure to secure it well away from bears, just as you would human food. Be sure your dog’s vaccinations are up to date and travel with the appropriate paperwork, especially if you’re planning a remote border crossing to Canada’s Quetico Provincial Park. Include a few dog first aid items; talk to your veterinarian for suggestions before setting off on a trip.
Accommodations
Beyond backcountry campsites, the Boundary Waters has plenty of other accommodation options on offer. These are great places to stay before or after a trip, or serve as a base camp for day trips on nearby lakes. Choose from cabins, resorts, frontcountry campgrounds and glamping. Find out more in Best Boundary Waters Accommodations.
Things to do in the Boundary Waters
The list of activities doesn’t end at “canoeing” nor do the sights end at “lakes and trees.” There are so many unique experiences to be had in the Boundary Waters. Find all the best activities to partake in and places to go when visiting Minnesota’s North Woods in Things To Do In The Boundary Waters.
You’ll find experienced canoe trip outfitters servicing pretty much every entry point in the Boundary Waters. Outfitters provide canoe rentals, camping and kitchen gear, food, and all-inclusive, complete outfitting packages that include everything you’ll need for a wilderness adventure. Boundary Waters outfitters also provide vehicle shuttles and canoe delivery to entry points to start and finish your trip. They also have the expertise to assist with navigating the quota and permit system, as well as securing remote border crossing permits to explore north of the border in Canada’s Quetico Provincial Park.
Equally important, outfitters in the Boundary Waters can provide you with local knowledge and encouragement to make your trip memorable. Several outfitters offer kayak rentals for Boundary Waters paddling, too.
There are a plethora of options when it comes to renting a canoe for the Boundary Waters. So how do you choose which outfitter to go with? Consider your needs. Are you planning a challenging trip? Make sure you get a lightweight Kevlar or carbon fiber canoe. Wishing to introduce your children to backcountry canoe camping? Look for companies offering larger, three- and four-person canoe rentals for additional space. Just want something to float around for a few hours? You’ll get along fine with a cheaper, general purpose aluminum canoe.
Regardless of your rental, make sure it comes with necessary accessories, including:
Paddles, for each paddler and a spare if you’re going on a longer trip
PFDs, also known as life jackets
A bailer
A throw bag or 50 feet of floating rope
You may need special equipment to tie a canoe to your vehicle, so be sure to ask in advance what’s required and provided. Some Boundary Waters canoe rentals include the option of delivery to popular entry points.
Kayak rental Boundary Waters
Your choices are somewhat limited if you’re looking for a kayak rental in the Boundary Waters. Look to our Canoe & Kayak Outfitters article linked above to find out which Boundary Waters companies rent kayaks.
Packing for a Boundary Waters canoe trip is like assembling gear for any other wilderness adventure: you want reliable equipment to keep you safe and comfortable that’s also lightweight and easy to use. It will likely take you a few trips to master your packing list; serious trippers will tell you this is an ongoing challenge.
At the end of an adventure, consider the gear you brought: which items did you use and which stayed buried in your pack? Make notes along the way on things to improve for your next trip so you won’t forget them when you get home.
Here are some gear tips specifically for canoeing the Boundary Waters.
Canoes
Most routes in the Boundary Waters include large lakes and many portages—often both. So choose a canoe that’s seaworthy and light, typically in the 17- to 19-foot range for tandem canoes and 15- to 17-foot range for solo canoes, and constructed of lightweight composites such as Kevlar/Aramid or carbon fiber. Make sure the canoe is equipped with a yoke and pads for easier, more comfortable carrying.
Paddles
Efficient, bent-shaft paddles originated in the Boundary Waters and are great for covering maximum distance with the least amount of effort. However, some traditional paddlers still prefer straight shafts with narrower, slicy blades for style and versatility. Either way, look for paddles that are light and tough—made from wood or composite—and be sure to pack a spare. Remember, if you’re going to invest in a high-end canoe you should do the same with a paddle.
Backpacks
Want to start a backcountry debate? Ask experienced canoe campers their preference for backpacks! You have many options. Since most Boundary Waters canoe trips include plenty of portages, make sure your packs are comfortable to carry. Modern Duluth-style portage packs constructed of nylon have curved shoulder straps and hip belts for greater ergonomics, while remaining soft-sided to ride well inside a canoe.
Make sure everything in your canoe pack is waterproof—either in small- to medium-sized drybags or in a large plastic or nylon waterproof liner. It’s best to double-bag sensitive items like sleeping bags and electronics in their own smaller waterproof sacks.
Tents and chairs
The Boundary Waters Canoe Area is popular, so expect well-developed backcountry sites. You can get away with a larger tent—say, a three-person model to camp in with your partner—and will often benefit from comfort accessories like lightweight folding camp chairs.
Sleeping bags
Nights can be cool in the North Woods, especially in the spring and fall. Invest in a good sleeping bag. Down-filled bags are lightest and most comfortable but make sure you pack them carefully in waterproof drybags.
Gas stove
Don’t plan to cook on campfires in the Boundary Waters. Finding firewood is a chore at the best of times, so go with a gas stove. Liquid fuels like white gas are best for long trips and also eliminate the waste of single-use canisters.
You’ll be portaging—think hiking with a canoe over your head and pack on your back—and spending a lot of time around water, so the best shoes for Boundary Waters canoe trips are supportive, fast-drying and grippy on rocks. Brands such as Astral and Chota make water-specific shoes, but any midweight hiking boot made in synthetic materials should fit the bill. Regardless of your footwear choice, be sure to break them in before your trip to avoid painful blisters.
Once upon a time, wilderness enthusiasts got along fine with a map and compass for backcountry navigation. Nowadays, GPS units simplify navigation and afford a great deal of peace of mind. Look for a unit that’s waterproof, good on batteries and intuitive to use. Touchscreens make your GPS unit feel as familiar as a smartphone, but may not work as effectively in cold and wet conditions.
There are plenty of options out there, some with advanced mapping features that virtually eliminate the need for paper maps. The choice ultimately boils down to your affection for technology. Be sure to always bring paper maps and a compass as backup, as well as the know-how to use them.
When it comes to first aid kits, keep it simple with items you know how to use. Think about common backcountry injuries—such as sunburns, blisters, sore muscles and small cuts—and pack accordingly. Make sure it’s all contained in a waterproof stuff sack that’s easy to locate in your pack. Sign up for a wilderness first aid course before your trip to learn how to perform first aid in the backcountry.
Long pants are best for canoe tripping. They offer protection not only from sun and bugs, but also from scrubby brush and ticks while portaging. Pants are a matter of personal preference, but in general look for trousers that are made of durable, quick-drying material such as nylon. Belt loops are handy, as are numerous pockets. Pants with reinforced knees and seat areas last far longer on multiple canoe trips.
Boundary Waters camping meals
Keep it light and simple for backcountry camping meals. You can spend a fortune on pre-packaged freeze-dried meals, which are often salty and disappointing. Or you can comb the aisles of supermarkets and health food stores for rice, pasta and instant potato meals that are far cheaper and more appetizing—though require a bit more prep time in camp. Lentils are a high-protein meat alternative that cook up fast, and you’ll find a variety of oatmeal options for your morning meal.
Think about ways you can mix and match ingredients to create homemade meals, and cruise the internet for menu ideas. If you’re really serious about wilderness camping, consider investing in a dehydrator to prepare your own meals at home. For lunch, consider various store-bought flatbreads, which keep well and are durable in the pack, as well as classic toppings like summer sausage, peanut butter (or nut-free alternatives) and jam. Be sure to pack plenty of snacks.
Find everything you need to know about cooking in the backcountry and meal planning here.
When you’re heading to the North Woods, you’re entering the domain of bugs and wildlife. But you need not be afraid of mosquitoes and bears—just be aware, pack the right gear, take a few simple precautions and feel fortunate to be part of the wilderness.
Black fly season Boundary Waters
Ever met a black fly? These small, persistent bloodsuckers are most prominent around moving water. Black fly season in the Boundary Waters goes from late-May through mid- to late-June, starting about the same time leaves begin to emerge on the trees. Black flies are worst in calm conditions and during the daytime hours.
Head nets and full-coverage clothing are your best defense, with DEET-based insect repellent applied around your ankles, waist, wrists, neck and ears. Planning routes on larger lakes and selecting island campsites will minimize your exposure to black flies.
Boundary Waters mosquitoes
Mosquito season in the Boundary Waters begins in early-June and extends into early- to mid-July. Mosquitoes are most plentiful at dawn and dusk—as well as on portages. Head nets and mesh shelters are wonderful places of respite. DEET-based repellents work well on mosquitoes and battery-powered chemical repellent units are effective around camp in calm conditions.
Boundary Waters ticks
Ticks are increasingly common in the Boundary Waters. These eight-legged, non-flying bloodsuckers are typically encountered in tall grasses and brush, anytime during the canoe season; that said, ticks are most plentiful in spring and early summer. Some varieties of ticks in the Boundary Waters may transmit Lyme disease and other pathogens.
Defend yourself by wearing long pants and tucking in your socks and shirt. Permethrin-based clothing treatments are very effective at repelling ticks. It’s good practice to perform a daily tick-check, inspecting the ankles, waist, and warm areas like the back of your knees, crotch and armpits.
Bears in Boundary Waters
The Boundary Waters wilderness boasts a healthy population of black bears, which serve as a good indication of a pristine natural environment. Note that there are no grizzly bears in the Boundary Waters. Black bears do their best to avoid humans, so encounters are unlikely.
Aggressive behavior and attacks are extremely rare. However, a few precautions will keep you and your food safe.
To learn more about the fascinating biology of bears visit the North American Bear Center in Ely, Minnesota on the edge of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area.
Wolves in Boundary Waters
Count yourself lucky if you see a wolf in the Boundary Waters! While wolves do roam this immense wilderness area, encounters with humans are exceedingly rare. That’s because wolves want nothing to do with humans. They are especially secretive in the summer months when packs are raising young. For more information about wolves and their presence in the Boundary Waters check out Ely’s International Wolf Center. Read How To Keep Wolves From Your Campsite if you want to be extra cautious.
Boundary Waters moose
The Boundary Waters moose population is decreasing due to climate change. However, this immense wilderness area still acts as a refuge for moose. Wetlands, sheltered bays and quiet rivers are the best places to see a moose—especially at dawn and dusk. Moose are most commonly observed during black fly and mosquito season, typically June, when insect pests drive them to seek respite in open areas.
Moose can be dangerous during the rutting season in late-September, when hormone-crazed males seek out mates and may mistake humans for competitors. With warmer summers and less snow, moose face big challenges due to climate change; give them a wide berth and observe them from afar to minimize your impacts on their routine.
The Boundary Waters gateway town of Ely, Minnesota is located about 250 miles north of Minneapolis-St. Paul on I-35. From Duluth, take Highway 61 and then head north on County Highway 2, Service Highway 15 and State Highway 1 for a backroads driving experience.
Gunflint Trail access points, on the east side of the Boundary Waters, are accessed via Highway 61 and Grand Marais, Minnesota.
Best time to visit Boundary Waters
Here’s an item to debate: when is the best time to visit the Boundary Waters? There are arguments to be made for all seasons.
May and June afford “early bird” visitors with fewer crowds and greater isolation, with the best fishing opportunities, especially for cold-water species like trout, and the greatest likelihood of encountering iconic wildlife like moose. However, spring trips are most challenging with the potential for cold, adverse weather, chilly water, and, come June, plenty of bugs.
July and August are peak canoe season, so expect to be sharing the wilderness with other trippers. Count yourself lucky to score a Boundary Waters permit at this time of year, and bask in stable weather, fewer bugs and warm-water lakes for swimming.
September and October, especially later in autumn, offer more variable weather conditions, with extended periods of rain and stronger winds. However, many veteran canoe campers argue that early- to mid-September is the absolute best time for a Boundary Waters canoe trip. You’ll enjoy pleasant temperatures, warm water, minimal bugs and fewer people at this time of year.
Boundary Waters rules
Rules in the Boundary Waters are meant to protect this area’s wilderness character. The following regulations are relevant to canoe and kayak users in the backcountry, and are enforceable under United States Forest Service Regulations.
Permits are required: Permits are subject to a quota by entry point from May 1 to September 30.
Group size: Group sizes are limited to nine anywhere in the Boundary Waters. Four canoes is the maximum group size per permit.
Cans and bottle ban: Cans and bottles are not allowed in the Boundary Waters.
Trash: It is illegal to burn trash in the Boundary Waters. Garbage must be packed out.
Length of stay: The maximum time you can stay at one campsite in the Boundary Waters is 14 days.
Fires: Fires are allowed only within steel grates at designated Boundary Waters campsites.
No motors: With few exceptions, gas and electric motors are not allowed in the Boundary Waters.
No portage wheels: With few exceptions, portage wheels are not allowed in the Boundary Waters.
Firearms: It is illegal to discharge a firearm within 150 yards of a campsite in the Boundary Waters.
No fireworks: All fireworks are illegal in the Boundary Waters.
Nothing is more confidence-inspiring than a reliable kayak roll. With good instruction many new paddlers learn the basics and roll on the first day. Truly having a roll, however, means knowing you can count on it in any situation, not just in the pool.
Getting to this point requires training your muscles into immediate kinetic response and then training your brain to block out any other option or shred of self-doubt. Like any skill, mastering a no-fail roll takes plenty of practice, discipline and good coaching tips from those at the top of their game.
Director of paddlesports at Aquabatics in Calgary, Alberta, and Director of Paddler Education for the Alberta Whitewater Association
Favourite roll: Modified sweep roll. It is functional and effective for all body types and doesn’t rely on surface tension, so it works really well in aerated water.
Pro tip: If you feel resistance on the paddle you are working too hard. With the modified sweep roll, the paddle slices through the water and the rotation of the body and knee drive/hip flick right the boat.
To perfect your kayak roll, train your brain to block out any other option or shred of self-doubt. | Photo: Headwes/Wikimedia Commons
The secret: Take your time when setting up for the roll. If you have a good setup you will succeed most of the time, even in very aerated water.
Try this: When you are practicing the roll, wear goggles and open your eyes. As you sweep, watch the paddle blade moving near the surface away from the boat. If you get this part right you have won half the battle.
2 Kelsey Thompson
Professional kayaker, multi-time Canadian national freestyle medalist from Truro, Nova Scotia
Favourite roll: Back deck roll. It’s fast, requires little to no setup and finishes in an aggressive forward position ready for the next stroke.
Pro tip: While underwater, putting your forearm in front of your forehead will protect your face from rocks in this more vulnerable back deck position.
The secret: Envision yourself doing a perfect roll—you have to mentally accept that you can do something before you will physically be able to. Telling yourself that you’re not going to swim brings greater success than flawless technique.
Try this: Keep your arms tight to get the most flexibility out of your hips. Reaching way out gives you more leverage but makes it harder to edge your boat. Also, commit to finishing on your front deck—coming up to the side often means falling back into the water.
3 Wayne Dickert
Paddling School Director; Nantahala Outdoor Center, North Carolina
Favourite roll: Sweep roll. It is especially good for older paddlers who have less flexibility.
Pro tip: Remember to sweep out about 20 degrees before you start your pull and hip-flick—it’s usually easier to roll the boat side-to-side than end-to-end!
Mastering how to roll a kayak takes plenty of practice, discipline and good coaching tips. | Feature photo: Ryan Creary
The secret: Arch your back a bit to keep your head low and body flat on the water. In a playboat, move your body weight toward the stern where the lower volume will roll more readily. Watch that your weight isn’t so far back that it inhibits your hip-flick.
Try this: Even if you’re a world class swimmer, you’ll want to use a comfortable set of nose plugs when learning the roll. Good plugs give you quality time when you’re hanging out upside down thinking through your roll.
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This article was first published in the Spring 2009 issue of Rapid Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.
Mastering how to roll a kayak takes plenty of practice, discipline and good coaching tips. | Feature photo: Ryan Creary
If you’re looking for a state in the Midwest full of laid-back rivers and lakes to do some paddling, Ohio has you covered. Popular with canoeists and kayakers alike, the Buckeye State boasts over 3,000 named creeks and rivers, 60,000 lakes and reservoirs, and, of course, the mighty Lake Erie. So popular are man-powered watersports in the state that two annual events are held each year: Ohio River Paddlefest and Cuyahoga Falls Kayak Race.
So pack up your car and head out on a road trip to Ohio for a relaxing paddling adventure. We’ve done the work for you and have the best bodies of water, rental information, and other tips listed below to make for a pleasant time canoeing and kayaking in Ohio.
The Scioto River is one of many beautiful waterways in Ohio.
Best kayaking and canoeing in Ohio
Columbus
Located centrally in the state, the Columbus area offers Big Darby Creek. Beginning on the southwest side of the city, this 84-mile river offers up to class II waters as it meanders southeast of Columbus. This State and National Scenic Creek is noted for its biodiversity and offers easy paddling beginners and families can enjoy.
Trapper John’s is one of the most highly-rated outfitters in the area, providing both canoes and kayaks for rent on the Big Darby. Rental prices are dependent on the length of trip you choose, but begin at $16 per person for a canoe or kayak on their one- to two-hour “Sampler Trip.” Trapper John’s also offers shuttle services for those with their own vessels.
Beginning 97 miles north of the city, the Olentangy travels south where it meets the Scioto River in downtown Columbus. Efforts are currently underway to dredge part of the river near Columbus as sediment getting washed downstream has become somewhat of a problem for local wildlife since dams upstream were decommissioned some years ago. You can learn more about this river on Olentangy Paddle’s website.
For a different view of downtown Columbus, head out on one of the leisurely self-guided kayak or canoe trips offered through Olentangy Paddle as well. No previous experience is needed as the water is slow-moving.
Photo: Michael Bowman/Unsplash
Dayton
By far the most popular paddling area in the Dayton area, and the entire state, is the Great Miami River. Originating near Indian Lake, which is also popular among boaters, this river flows southwest for 156 miles before joining with the Ohio River near Cincinnati. The waterway generally ranges up to class I, class II at the most, making many sections of it enjoyable for novices. However, it is important to note that there are dams, small spillways and more obstacles along this water trail. Familiarize yourself with portage areas, put-ins and more with this map.
Adventures on the Great Miami is your best bet for hitting the river just outside Dayton. Canoes and kayaks both start at $25 per person. You can find more information on their five-mile trip, shuttle services and more on their website.
On the other hand, why travel when you can put your kayak in right downtown? Need to borrow one? Not a problem. Rent a kayak from RiverScape Paddling Rentals before checking out the RiverScape River Run.
The Stillwater River and Mad River are two other popular kayaking and canoeing spots nearby. Check out Barefoot Canoe to head out on the calm waters of the Stillwater and Mad River Adventures to enjoy some canoeing in Ohio fun on mostly slow-moving water with just enough “bursts” to keep you awake.
Ohio River
Ranking in the top 10 for both the longest rivers and average discharge, the Ohio River is certainly one of the most mighty waterways in the continental U.S. and particularly the Midwest. For one reason or another, many people seem to be uncertain about whether you can go kayaking in Ohio on this river. However, for most of the year, this large river is so slow-moving that you can paddle upstream with relatively little effort. The exceptions, of course, are that it can be quite choppy in winter and dangerous to be on after heavy rains, just like any other river.
You can find out more about the Ohio River Water Trail, which has been expanding in recent years, on the NRT Database and the Ohio River Trail Council website. Although a bit of a drive at 1.5 hours, the Louisville Area Canoe and Kayak site also has a great list of river sections to check out in that area.
Photo: David Mark/Pixabay
Hocking Hills
One of the most loved vacation and paddling spots in the state, you won’t want to miss a chance to hit up the Hocking Hills area and Hocking River in the south-central part of Ohio. Claimed by many to be one of the most scenic areas of the state, you can take in the views as you slowly meander down the class I Hocking River, a 102-mile tributary to the Ohio River.
There are tons of outfitters nearby to help you get on the river, including Murray’s Landing and Hocking Hills Adventures. Murray’s Landing offers three-, 5.5- and seven-mile trips down the wooded banks and under an old bridge. Head out on Hocking Hills Adventures’ nine-mile paddle to check out the natural arch known as Rockbridge and nature preserves in the area. Both outfitters offer your choice of canoe or kayak rental, and family-friendly tours.
Cincinnati
Other than the Ohio, the Little Miami River is the go-to paddling destination near Cincinnati. This class I river flows for 111 miles before emptying into the Ohio. For a nice put-in spot farther away from the city, head about 45 minutes northeast near Fort Ancient. There are several outfitters in the area if you need to rent a canoe or kayak. Enjoy paddling through the verdant valley, stopping off for a picnic or even camp overnight on an extended trip.
Boasting “paddling fun for folks of all ages,” Scenic River Canoe Excursions will have you out in a canoe or kayak with the whole family in no time, starting at just $20 per paddler. Loveland Canoe & Kayak Outfitters offers a cool five-mile trip the whole family will enjoy, involving a chance to check out Loveland Castle. For an extended, 10-mile trip, look into their Seven Bridges Excursion, available to those 16+. Tippecanoe and Kayaks Too offers rentals, guided tours and livery services.
Although we already touched on the Ohio River, it is worth noting Ohio River Paddlefest is held each year in Cincinnati. Plan your trip for August 1 to join in on “the nation’s largest paddling celebration.”
Photo: Igor Oliyarnik/Unsplash
Akron-Cleveland Area
Whether you’re looking for a sea kayaking adventure on Lake Erie or a calm, scenic paddle down one of the area’s rivers, the Akron-Cleveland region has you covered! For a relaxing trip down one of the most scenic rivers in the state, head to the class I Mohican. This 28-mile water trail provides a getaway from city life to the woods as it passes through quiet, forested valleys.
The Upper Cuyahoga River is another popular kayaking destination in the area. There are not many obstacles to worry about and the water flows slowly enough even beginners should be able to traverse it with ease. Other areas of the river mostly flow past privately owned land or are too narrow to paddle. You can find more detailed information on the different sections here. Also, if you are interested in whitewater kayaking, the Cuyahoga Falls Kayak Race, located in the identically named town, is an intense half-mile course through class II and V rapids, among other challenges.
For some well-known and trusted outfitters in the area, check out both Crooked River Adventures companies, one in Burton and the other in Kent, for trips on the Cuyahoga, Mohican River Adventures for kayaking and canoeing trips, and 41° North for rentals and guided tours on Lake Erie.
For some more great resources for planning your kayaking in Ohio trip, check out Ohio State Parks & Watercraft’s page on Ohio river basic paddling maps and Paddle Ohio for more maps, river conditions and access points.
Photo: Mike Toler/Pixabay
Paddling season in Ohio
The paddling season in Ohio generally runs from April through October. The first and last months are dependent on the finicky nature of both spring and fall weather in the state. Average temperatures range between 48° and 72°F during these months. The summer months of June through August make up the height of tourist season.
Shorts and shirt made of athletic material (in other words, synthetics. Avoid cotton, especially during cooler temperatures, as it does not dry quickly and increases your chances of hypothermia).
Tennis shoes you don’t mind getting wet, water shoes or sandals with straps
For cooler weather, consider thermal underlayers, an insulated hat and possibly a drysuit or wetsuit
Photo: Taylor Noble/Unsplash
Ohio kayak and canoe laws
Laws pertaining to kayakers and canoeists are pretty standard in Ohio. Here are some of the most important ones you should be aware of.
Registration
Before hitting any body of water in the Buckeye State, paddlers must register their kayak or canoe. Proof of ownership is required to register. Your registration sticker must be on your vessel and you need to keep the paper copy on you as well while paddling. However, if you will be visiting from another state where your craft is registered and are visiting for less than 60 days, you are exempt from registering in Ohio.
Life jackets
In terms of Ohio life jacket laws for kayaks and canoes, everyone must have a PFD with them in the boat. However, only children age 10 and under are required to wear them at all times while in the boat. Type I, II or III PFDs are acceptable for kayakers and canoeists in Ohio.
Distress signals, such as a flare gun, are not required unless you will be paddling at night on Lake Erie. You are, however, required to have some form of navigational light (e.g. waterproof lantern) on your vessel for paddling at night on any lake, stream, river, etc. It is also worth noting that you must have a sound device, such as a whistle, if paddling on Lake Erie, the Ohio River or the Muskingum River.
