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Kinship In An Unbounded Land

people review the notes left in a bottle by generations of wilderness canoeists
Lost messages in a bottle. | Feature photo: Brian Johnston

There’s a temptation to think that we somehow got from the era of explorers and voyageurs to modern canoeing with very little activity in between.

In truth, there was at least a century of prospectors, surveyors, clergy and gentleman and lady adventurers who pioneered routes and left cairns and journals that beguiled hardcore canoe trippers then and now. Names like Low, Bell Selwyn, Macoun, McConnell, Richardson, Dawson and Keele are still very much a part of the ongoing conversation about canoe tripping.

Kinship in an unbounded land

That conversation continued at this year’s Wilderness Canoe Symposium. One of the voices buried in the Saturday afternoon program was Fred “Skip” Pessl who stood up and said, “I’ve been on one canoe trip in my life. And it didn’t end well.”

And with that, he shared a memoir of his 1955 trip down the Dubawnt River with Arthur Moffatt. Along with four other college students, they followed routes pioneered in the 1890s by Geological Survey prospector Joseph Burr Tyrrell.

The leader of Pessl’s trip, 32-year-old Arthur Moffatt, died on that trip.

people review the notes left in a bottle by generations of wilderness canoeists
Lost messages in a bottle. | Feature photo: Brian Johnston

After publication of Moffatt’s journal and the macabre story in Sports Illustrated in 1959, the only public airing of the trip was a compelling and controversial 1996 book called Death on the Barrens: A True Story of Courage and Tragedy in the Canadian Arctic by Pessl’s trip mate and fellow survivor, George Grinnell.

Seventeen years after the publication of Grinnell’s account and 58 years after the actual journey, Pessl told the symposium audience that he is determined to augment Grinnell’s account with his own version of the story.

On his journey, J.B. Tyrrell built a cairn in the headwaters of the Dubawnt, leaving a note in a jar and a flag to mark the spot. From that time on, trips that followed would stop and add their notes to the jar—including the 1955 Moffatt trip—leaving a multi-layered experiential record of the echoes of history in a very particular wilderness location.

On Tyrrell’s trail this past summer, Manitoba paddler Brian Johnston stopped at the cairn. The jar and notes had suffered. Some—including Tyrrell’s original from 1893 and Moffatt’s from 1955—were illegible in visible light. Others detail the on-the-spot musings of parades of paddlers, also inspired by the original expedition from the Geological Survey. Johnston scanned the notes, refilled the jar with facsimiles and archived the originals.

What binds J.B. Tyrrell’s original 1890s report, George Grinnell’s haunting Death on the Barrens, Skip Pessl’s memoir and Johnston’s forthcoming On Top of a Boulder: Notes from Tyrrell’s Cairn, is the canoe and what Johnston refers to as “kinship in an unbounded land.” Without the prospectors, this kinship would not exist—there would be no jar filled with inspired notes tucked away inside a cairn built 120 years ago.

Cover of the Early Summer 2013 issue of Canoeroots MagazineThis article was first published in the Early Summer 2013 issue of Canoeroots Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.


Lost messages in a bottle. | Feature photo: Brian Johnston

 

Those (Im)Perfect Days

Photo: David Lee
Those (Im)Perfect Days

Last summer, I happened across a magazine article, lyrically penned and lavishly illustrated, extolling a perfect day of living large in the great outdoors. To my delight, the piece centered on a weekend canoe trip in a region of northwoodsy lakes and rivers I knew well. Digging deeper into the story, it soon became apparent that this was definitely unlike any paddling getaway that I’ve ever been on.

In the accompanying dreamy photographs, the GQ-ready paddler, complete with Brad Pitt’s dashing good looks and a perfect two days worth of stubble, was seated ramrod straight, sans PFD, in the stern of a classic wood-stripper canoe. The boat, with its classic lines and warm-hued natural wood finish, was stunning. Nearly as stunning as the statuesque bow paddler, an übersexy blonde attired in a sports bra and knockout tights, again, no PFD, who I swear I’ve seen gracing the pages of a Victoria’s Secret catalogue. 

In between the lavish images of the two beautiful models who just happened to be sitting in a canoe, the article waxed poetically about the glorious morning sun casting itself over the sky-blue waters and the sweet-smelling wilderness air. It rambled on about the sensual, hypnotic motion of the sleek canoe gliding over the mirror-calm surface, the enchanting yodeling of a pair of courting loons and the picture-perfect campsite under tall white pines awaiting day’s end.

Well, jolly good for Brad and Gisele, I say. For the rest of us Average Joe and Jane Bagadonuts who canoe in the real world instead of Never Never Land, all this pabulum was a bit much. 

In 35 years of dinking around in canoes, I’ve had my share of memorable days on the water. Though I have to admit, not one of them was ever shared with a supermodel and not a single person has ever mistaken me or any of my paddling buddies for Brad Pitt.

Some of my most vivid remembrances from canoe trips past have not been of days when life was blissful, beautiful and perfect, but rather those imperfect days. Days when canoeing was more about fearsome storms, chilling capsizes and portages from hell. 

Sadly to say, my canoeing-related misadventures are not isolated events, but I’m glad of them all. Even now, years later, these wayward recollections still make me grin in a puckered-brow, I-can’t-believe-this-happened-to-me kind of way.

By now I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I’ll never have an angel as a paddling partner, other than my wife, and I’ve been told I look a lot more like Larry David than any GQ coverboy.

Truth be told, canoeing as often as I do, I’m bound to have more of those indelible imperfect days. After all, shit happens, which only makes me appreciate it even more when everything does go right. Besides, for the paddlers I know, mishaps make better stories.

Larry Rice’s most recent imperfect day involved a sand-blasting, tent-flattening, all-night windstorm in the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande in Big Bend, Texas.

This article was originally published in the Early Summer 2013 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Early Summer 2013 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Why Highlighting Successful River Restoration Projects Is So Important

View down the Chicago River, lined up skyscrapers
The Chicago River is just one example of a successful river restoration project in North America.

My dad collects antique canoe cups. They’re these beautiful, hand-carved noggins, shaped from the burl of a tree—usually a maple. Natives and voyageurs tucked the toggles under their belts, letting the cups dangle from their waists so they were at hand when thirst struck. They would dip the cups in the water, drinking straight from the lake or river. Imagine that.

Hand-carved canoe cups sitting on a table.
Now that’s using your noggin. | Photo: Michael Mechan

Any number of articles that cross my desk remind me that this is no longer possible. Voyageurs had to contend with beaver fever, but not industrial heavy metals or pesticide runoff.

My dad’s collection sits on display in my parents’ home. I often admire the workmanship when I visit. I also envy the simpler times when it was safe to use the cups now relegated to a shelf of artifacts. In my kit, these cups have been replaced by Nalgenes, charcoal and ceramic filters, plastic hose contraptions and chemical drops.

Still, I can’t help but be optimistic. Headlines suggest the ruin of our waterways, but I think that’s just as much a problem with reporting as it is with the environment. There are many tremendous successes in improving access and quality of our waterways.

Organizations like Oregon’s Willamette River Water Trail and the Lake Tahoe Water Trail, featured in this issue’s 13 Amazing Adventures for 2013, have created fantastic resources to get people on the water. Use it, fall in love with it, invest in it, so the theory goes. So far so good for these and many similar initiatives.

Problem is, we don’t talk about them enough. The first three pages of Google search results for “most improved rivers” reveal coverage of the same single U.K. report. Nothing from North America. Where are the stories about the 62 dams that were removed across the U.S. in the past year? They brought the total number of removals in the past 20 years to well over 800.

None of this is to say we don’t all need to do our part to continue fighting the good fight. There are big environmental problems out there and awareness is an important first stop on the road to recovery. You may have heard the Colorado River just topped American Rivers’ annual Most Endangered Rivers List released in April. It was awarded this status because of the burden placed upon it by the 40 million people that rely on it for drinking water and irrigation.

The story less told is that this list isn’t a death sentence. Quite the opposite, actually. The Chicago River, for example, was a receptacle for untreated sewage until 2011 when it showed up on the list. Later that year, the problem was solved in response to public action spurred in large part by the publicity brought on by the list.

Shouting our successes from the rooftops (and riverbanks) instills hope as well as provides models of success from which to build upon. I may never use a canoe cup risk-free, but I believe restoration projects continue to grow and that there are more amazing waterways out there than I will ever get to paddle in my lifetime.

This article originally appeared in Canoeroots Magazine‘s Early Summer 2013 issue. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here, or browse the archives here.


This is editor Michael Mechan’s final issue of Canoeroots. He plans on dedicating more time to exploring some of these reclaimed waterways.

Now that’s using your noggin. | Photo: Michael Mechan

Daily Photo: R1VR TYM

Photo: Gamma Man
Daily Photo: R1VR TYM

No matter how you spell it, it’s river time somewhere.

This photo was taken by Flickr user Gamma Man and is licensed under Creative Commons.

Think your image could be a Rapid Media Whitewater Daily Photo? Submit it to [email protected].

Daily Photo: Memories of Winter

Photo: Sean Kutzler
Daily Photo: Memories of Winter

Spring is finally here, and Adventure Kayak reader Sean Kutzler couldn’t be more excited. “It was actually the dead of winter,” he says of this hot cocoa-crave-inducing image, “Little Traverse Bay, on the northern shores of Lake Michigan, hadn’t frozen over yet so it was the prime time to throw on the winter gear and paddle the frigid, dark, winter waters!” Look for Kutzler most weekends, no matter what time of year, paddling the Great Lakes.

 

Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo.

 

 

Daily Photo: Good Friday!

Photo: Donald Lee Pardue
Daily Photo: Good Friday!

Religious or otherwise, a day off work to paddle is definitely a good Friday. Have a great weekend, no matter how you choose to celebrate.

This photo was taken by Flickr user Donald Lee Pardue and is licensed under Creative Commons.

Think your image could be a Rapid Media Whitewater Daily Photo? Submit it to [email protected].

Daily Photo: Spring Break

Photo: Gillian Edwards
Daily Photo: Spring Break

“A sudden burst of sunny weather gave us the chance to get out to the Misty Fjords National Monument (about 50 miles from Ketchikan, Alaska) during spring break,” writes Adventure Kayak reader Gillian Edwards, who also works as operations manager at Southeast Sea Kayaks in Ketchikan (www.kayakketchikan.com). “Our 6-year-old twins got their first look at the 3000-foot granite wall in Punchbowl Cove on a chilly but amazing paddle in Rudyerd Bay.”

Want to see your photo here? Send to [email protected] with subject line Daily Photo.

 

 

Daily Photo: Go Beavers!

Photo: Northwest Rafting Company
Daily Photo: Go Beavers!

March Madness is in full swing. The Oregon State University Beavers haven’t played one game of basketball. However, apparently OSU’s NCAA Cataraft team trounces the competion. Go Beavers!

This photo was taken by Flickr user Northwest Rafting Company and is licensed under Creative Commons.

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Video: Walk On Water

Andy Maser/NRS Films

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59749521

Andy Maser/NRS Films

For each thing we lose, we gain another…

When a skiing accident left Greg Mallory paralyzed from the waist down, he turned to kayaking to help him escape his wheelchair. Now he’s an accomplished Class V whitewater paddler who finds strength, challenge and meaning on the river. This is his story.

Check out more of Andy Masers films here. Check out more video from NRSfilms here.

Daily Photo: Overlander

Photo: tomwardill
Daily Photo: Overlander

Okay, so maybe this isn’t the toughest overlander vehicle out there, but it has what it takes for when the road ends and the water begins.

This photo was taken by Flickr user tomwardill and is licensed under Creative Commons.

Think your image could be a Rapid Media Whitewater Daily Photo? Submit it to [email protected].