Home Blog Page 482

Rock the Boat: Why is John Dowd Lonely?

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Rock the Boat: Why is John Dowd Lonely?

There was a time in the early ‘90s that the Clayoquot Sound beach on which I live was host to half a dozen private groups of kayakers on any one evening. Sometimes, as many as 50 campers vied for a spot to put their tents during the summer months.

During the summer of 2011, it was a very different scene. Calm seas and mild weather did not entice the numbers of previous years. Labor Day brought silky seas and warm, sunny days but the only campers on our beach were hikers dropped there by water taxi.

From April to September, the groups that did arrive were mostly instructor training or outdoor programs run by colleges and high schools. The rest were a smattering of commercial tours with their distinctive green and white tarps and customers who always look just a little out of place.

What’s going on?

To answer that question, I have to go back 10 years to a consulting job I did for a retail store that sold dive gear in one half of the shop and sea kayaks in the other. I asked the staff what they were really selling on the dive side of the shop. After much discussion they agreed they were selling a sense of belonging. Belonging to a society whose members had undergone a rite of passage. They had completed the courses and received the blessing of their peers. They were certified divers.

So what about the sea kayaking side of the shop? There they agreed that they were selling free- dom. It was noted to the surprise of the shop’s owners that the crossover was barely 15 percent. This difference isn’t one of chance. When sea kayaking began to take off in North America

in the 1980s, I was in the midst of it as a publisher, retailer and manufacturer. The sport’s popularity at that time was due in large part to a conscious focus upon accessibility to ordi- nary folk, especially women and families.

We realized that we had to avoid the macho whitewater attitude with its over-emphasis on technique. Rolling, surveys told us, was a turn-off for most of our customers, and not much use for the most common emergency situation in which a paddler becomes gradually overwhelmed by conditions.

We had the British as an example of what not to do. Across the pond, a thriving post-war kayak industry had been reduced to a tenth of its glory of the ‘50s and ‘60s. Instructors bent on right and wrong had scorned and certified the kit-built boat people and their simple craft out of the market, replacing them with heavy West Greenland-style boats that appealed to a very different crowd. From family activity, “sea canoeing” became 90 percent young males.

I am convinced that the reduced number of serious sea kayakers who appear on our beach each year has to do with the shift of sea kayaking from a freedom-centered activity to a belonging or following activity. The first question a new member to a local sea kayak club was recently asked by other members was,“What level (of certification) are you?”

New books on sea kayaking do not emphasize seamanship, which is at the heart of the activity, but focus in excruciating detail on an array of marginally relevant whitewater strokes and a forward stroke taken straight from flatwater racing. The distinction between surf kaya- king and sea kayaking has become blurred. The mood has changed.

I predict that those who have brought about these changes will find themselves regulating a smaller and less freedom-loving group. Such few kayakers who make it out to our beach under their own power will be the remnants of an old guard I’ve come to know and like so well.

We can talk about life, not just levels.

John Dowd is the author of the classic text, Sea Kayaking: A Manual for Long-Distance Touring, and paddled from Venezuela to Florida in 1977, long before kayakers carded each other.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak, Fall 2012. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Paddling at Frontenac Provincial Park

Watch this episode of Rapid Media TV to learn about Ontario’s most southern wilderness park, Frontenac Provincial Park. We learn from Mark Hall how his short boat designs with Delta Kayaks are making waves in the industry and Scott MacGregor show you how to make sure your boat makes it to the water and back.

 

Life Jackets For Your Dog

Check out these PFDs and lifejackets for your dog from Ruffwear, reviewed by the Canoeroots team. 

French River Canoe Trip

This is a Canoeroots Digital Extra Feature from the French River in Ontario, Canada. We spent 4 days with Black Feather enjoying this historic river, meeting families from all over the world and find out why they chose this river trip (and why you should too!).

 

Read more about family friendly river trips by clicking here

Three-Hundred-Year-Old Temagami Red Pines At Risk

Photo: Conor Mihell
300-year-old red pine at Wolf Lake. Photo: Conor Mihell

For longtime Temagami canoe-tripper Brian Back, the prospect of a new provincial park encompassing Wolf Lake, a Windex-clear lake surrounded by a stark quartzite shoreline and a forest of old growth red pine, was “almost a no-brainer.”

Wolf Lake is the scenic highlight of a canoe route weaving in and out of Chiniguchi Waterway Provincial Park, a 9,368-hectare protected area of lakes and small rivers east of Sudbury, Ontario. A Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) report in 1990 concluded that Wolf Lake “may be the largest remaining contiguous, old-growth red pine dominated forest in North America,” with trees up to 300 years old. Summer camps have fl ocked to the area for decades, along with throngs of recreational canoeists looking for an easy escape.

Despite all this, Wolf Lake isn’t protected. Things looked promising in 1999 when Ontario’s Living Legacy, a government attempt to complete the province’s network of protected areas, established the Chiniguchi park and pegged Wolf Lake as a Forest Reserve—-essentially a park-in-waiting designation that allows mining but outlaws forestry.

Wolf Lake was expected to roll into the waterway park when pre-existing mining leases expired. That’s why Back, the founder of Ottertooth.com, a northeastern Ontario canoe-tripping and environmental website, was shocked
last summer to learn that the MNR planned to revoke Wolf Lake’s Forest Reserve status to more actively promote mineral exploration and, by association, open the area to commercial logging.

Back suspects it was pressure from the mining industry that caused the MNR’s sudden about-face. Developers don’t like parcels of land in regulatory limbo, says Back. Forest Reserve status doesn’t impede exploration activities for Flag Resources, the Calgary-based junior mining company with leases surrounding Wolf Lake, but the uncertain land designation can spook the investors it needs to fund its work.

Regardless of Flag Resources’ 30 years of exploration in the area having turned up no tangible prospects, MNR offered to exchange 340 hectares surrounding Wolf Lake for 2,000 hectares of protected land to be tacked onto the Chiniguchi park elsewhere. According to Bob Olajos, the secretary of the Friends of Temagami conservation group, this is hardly a fair trade. “What we have at Wolf Lake cannot be replicated elsewhere,” he says.

Surging public outcry put the heat on the provincial government to revisit the issue. Last December, the Friends of Temagami and its sister organization, Toronto-based Earthroots, spearheaded a campaign that barraged the provincial legislature with over 1,000 faxes opposing the government’s plans to scrap the Wolf Lake Forest Reserve. In February, 17 conservation organizations and businesses, including Friends of Temagami, Earthroots, Paddle Canada, Camp Keewaydin and the Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society, formed the Wolf Lake Coalition to push for its protection.

Minister of Natural Resources Michael Gravelle insists the province “struck a fair balance” when they decided to retain the Forest Reserve in March. Th is protects Wolf Lake from logging but keeps mining prospects alive.
“It’s the world’s largest old-growth red pine forest. Th at’s the hook,” says Olajos. “There’s a hole at Wolf Lake, right in the middle of this great forest. We want it protected.”

 

This story originally appeared on page 15 of the Early Summer issue of Canoeroots & Family Camping magazine. Read the entire issue here.

Deliver Me From Ego

Photo: Larry Rice
Canoeing the Chattooga in 1975. Photo: Larry Rice

It was spring, 1975. I drove south with a handful of friends from Chicago to tackle the raging river that author and poet James Dickey had mythologized a few years earlier. We were among a huge wave of city slickers making a pilgrimage to north Georgia’s Chattooga River after seeing the disturbing and powerful movie, Deliverance.

Like many of our fellow adventureseekers, we had no idea what we were getting into.

Before the 1972 release of this AcademyAward-nominated film, only a small number of paddlers had explored the Chattooga’s remote, thickly wooded gorges. However, in 1974, due in large measure to its abrupt and unexpected fame, the Chattooga was designated a National Wild and Scenic River and boating use skyrocketed to roughly 21,000 float trips per year. Not surprisingly, a fair share of these giddy rivergoers were ill-informed and ill-prepared. During the year after Deliverance appeared in theaters, 31 people drowned while attempting to paddle the same stretch of river featured in the film.

Photo: Larry Rice

“Hey, what happens if we flip this thing over?” —Bobby, Deliverance. Photo: Larry Rice.

We knew none of this as we camped peacefully along a manageable upper stretch of the Chattooga. The following morning we entered Section III—a 13‑mile run of class II–IV drops and ledges. We endured several capsizes and bruising swims, loaned wetsuit jackets to two other canoeists we found on the verge of hypothermia and helped evacuate a kayak party that had suffered a near drowning.

One of our canoes, my buddy’s prized 17-foot aluminum Grumman, never left the river. It remained wrapped like a shiny pretzel around a mid‑stream boulder between the vertical rock walls of the Narrows, a sobering reminder of our arrogance and ignorance.

Not even knowing it was there, we miraculously stayed upright through notorious Bull Sluice, a killer class IV, before reaching the take-out in the dark. Humbled, bloodied and chastised, our only consolation was that we had finished the trip in better shape than Burt and Jon.

Now, decades later, I hope I’ve learned at least a few things to help smooth those choppy waters. But this I confess: when I think of returning to the Chattooga, I can’t shake a little lingering dread.
Still, the remarkable thing about river tripping is also my inspiration for a sequel: no two runs are ever alike. Which means that one day I might be delivered down the Chattooga with a smile on my face instead of an arrow in my ego.

 

Buena Vista, Colorado-based Larry Rice runs rivers about 100 days each year. The next time he tackles Bull Sluice, he’ll be counting on skill, not luck.

 

This story originally appeared on page 8 of the Early Summer 2012 issue of Canoeroots & Family Camping Magazine. Read the entire issue here.

The North Face Gold Kazoo Gear Review

The North Face Gold Kazoo
Photo: The North Face

A review of the North Face Gold Kazoo Gear women’s three-season synthetic sleeping bag from Canoeroots & Family Camping magazine.
The Gold Kazoo is all about an impressive warmth-to-weight ratio—with a temperature rating around freezing thanks to its 650-fill Hungarian goose down, it weighs in at less than a full one-liter Nalgene. Both its ultra-lightweight rip stop nylon outer shell and nylon liner are extremely soft against your skin should you choose to peel back layers on a warm night. Panels of synthetic, anti-compression fill have been incorporated into the bag where your body typically contacts the ground—at the head, shoulders, hips and feet—improving wear and reducing heat loss. Paddlers should consider upgrading from the included compression stuff sack to something waterproof since the down fill won’t do its job if it gets wet.

30 °F (-1 °C); 2 lbs 1 oz (994 g); 17” x 6”; 650-fill Down

www.thenorthface.com | $230

A VIDEO REVIEW OF THE NORTH FACE GOLD KAZOO FROM CANOEROOTS MAGAZINE

 

 

This article originally appeared in Canoeroots & Family Camping, Early Summer 2012. Download our freeiPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

True Story

Photo: Ryan Creary
Going By The Book. Photo: Ryan Creary

After dinner one particularly harsh evening early this spring, a group of friends and I were sitting around my kitchen table, pining for warm weather, ice out and the freedom to enjoy being outside again without having to think about the cold. Surrounded by half-empty bottles of wine and dirty dishes, we started talking about what gets us through unforgiving winters. Cross training. Skiing. Climbing. I usually advocate for getting outdoors but this time I moved the conversation inside. My go-to has always been to turn to a well-written adventure story.

Authors like Jon Krakauer, Jon Muir, Bill Bryson and Henry David Thoreau were discussed around the table. Something lit up inside each of us as we shared vivid memories of devouring the tales, many of our own misadventures inspired by the fantastic chronicles we’d read. The mark of a good book is a memorable storyline. The best book, it turns out, awakens memories of exactly where you were and what you felt while you read it. My earliest recollection of just such a true-to-life adventure was the story of Don and Dana Starkell.

I remember sitting cross-legged on the carpet of my fourth-grade classroom like it was yesterday. My teacher, Mrs. Hawes, read us the harrowing story of the father and son who paddled their canoe from Winnipeg, Manitoba, to Belem, Brazil.

I can’t remember whether the other kids in my class were as captivated as I was, but I do recall my own wonder at Paddle to the Amazon. I knew that this adventure story was diff erent from The Rescuers Down Under, The Never Ending Story or The Goonies. It wasn’t that the story is about canoeing, though I’m sure the book did contribute to my love of paddling. My nine-year-old mind was rapt by the fact that the book is about actual people and places.

The notion that real people could accomplish such a feat amazed me. These weren’t cartoon characters taking on bandits, jungles, sickness and outlaws; just a blue-collar father and son from the prairies. That’s why books like Paddle to the Amazon are so important. They plant seeds in young minds, teaching them that anything is possible and, perhaps more importantly, they remind adults that beyond ambition, you don’t need to be particularly extraordinary to take on a great challenge.

This year marks the 30th anniversary of the completion of the Starkell’s two-year, 12,810-mile trip. I picked up a second-hand copy of the book a couple of months ago and dove in. Twenty years after it was first read to me, it still conjures up a mix of giddiness and awe.

Don Starkell lost his battle with cancer in January, but his stories continue to stir reader emotions. And while few will fill his shoes in the paddling community, we are fortunate that there are intrepid adventurers out there who strive to share their stories with us, seeing us through long off-seasons and captivating the imaginations of impressionable fourth graders.

 

Michael Mechan is always looking for books that inspire, new and old alike. Send your adventure reading list to [email protected].

 

This story originally appeared on page 6 of the Early Summer 2012 issue of Canoeroots & Family Camping magazine. Read the entire issue here.

Kelty Designs Light Year Xp 20 W Gear Review

Kelty Designs Light Year Xp 20 W
Photo: Kelty Designs

A review of the Kelty Designs Light Year Xp 20 W women’s three-season synthetic sleeping bag from Canoeroots & Family Camping magazine.

The Light year tapers gently to provide some of the warmth and weight savings of a mummy bag, without the constricted feel. It’s a women’s specific bag, shaped with less width at the shoulder and more room at the hip for even more comfort and efficiency. All that and a soft micro-fiber liner ensure a great night’s sleep, spring, summer and fall. The synthetic Climashield insulation stays warm even when it’s damp, making it ideal for tripping in any conditions. Details like the zippered chest pocket, sleeping pad security loops and included compression stuff sack add even more value to this well-priced bag.

20 °F (-7 °C); 3 lbs 4 oz (1474 g); 15” x 10”; Synthetic

www.kelty.com | $160

A VIDEO REVIEW OF THE KELTY DESIGNS LIGHT YEAR XP 20 W FROM CANOEROOTS MAGAZINE

 

 

This article originally appeared in Canoeroots & Family Camping, Early Summer 2012. Download our freeiPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Snake River: Think the North is Out of Reach?

“This is where my ashes are going,” says guide Al Pace as we eddy out of the Snake River where Milk Creek pours its white, silt-laden water into the icy green flow of the Snake. Looking around the incredible canyon, with green-, orange- and grey-streaked mountains stretching off in all directions, he adds, “I haven’t found a prettier place.”

We’re five days into a trip down the Yukon’s class III Snake River—a trip that takes us 12 days, covers 300 kilometers and drops 1,100 meters. I was totally unprepared for this trip; I had no idea it would be so beautiful. Other than that, the guides take care of everything.

My buddies hate traveling with guides. And I understand it. Between us, we have decades of outdoor experience, some of it pretty risky (stupid, actually), but we’ve survived to this point. So what’s the point of tripping with an outfitter?

Well, the logistics of a trip on the Snake are staggering: researching and planning the route; booking shuttles, flights and rentals; gathering satellite phone, stoves, fuel, food, bear bangers, tents and boats; humping it all to the Territories and then cramming it into a floatplane is a daunting endeavor. It’s an incredible thing not having to worry about any of it.

I arrived in Norman Wells, Northwest Territories, without paddles, lifejacket, first aid kit, maps or even a dry bag. Canoe North Adventures supplied the barrel; I shoved all my stuff in it and stepped aboard a Twin Otter bound for Duo Lakes in the Yukon.

The Peel River watershed is an absolute gem of the Canadian North. The Wind, Bonnet Plume and Snake rivers are legendary experiences for good reason. Each offers a unique whitewater adventure in a pristine and vast wilderness. We spot caribou, grizzlies and mountain goats and even inexperienced fly fishers amongst us are catching Arctic grayling.

As we settle down around a campfire, complete with lawn chairs for all, one of Pace’s regular clients steps out of her tent, dressed in a bright pink boa, red satin gloves and oversized earrings. She’s calling herself Madame Zoom, and passes around a Nalgene of Black Russian. As she begins to read Robert Service’s Cremation of Sam McGee, everyone hushes, listening attentively.

The moment is radiant with a sense of privilege and largesse that I have only found in Canada’s North. The snowcapped Mackenzie Mountains tower over us as we contemplate all that is the Yukon and how it is changing us. When she reaches the final stanza we all join in, raising our glasses to the wilderness, and shout, “There are strange things done in the midnight sun!”  

MAPS

www.fedmaps.com

GUIDEBOOK

Rivers of the Yukon, by Ken Madsen and Graham Wilson, Primrose Publications

READING

Three Rivers, forwarded by Juri Peepre, Harbour Publishing

OUTFITTERS

Canoe North Adventures, Norman Wells, NWT canoenorthadventures.com, 519-941-6654

Canadian River Expeditions, Whitehorse, Yukon nahanni.com, 867-668-3180

Black Feather, Seguin, Ontario blackfeather.com, 888-849-7668 

This article on the Snake River was published in the Early Summer 2012 issue of Canoeroots magazine.

This article first appeared in the Early Summer 2012 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.