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Skill: The No-Match Fire

Photo: Michael Mechan
Skill: The No-Match Fire

The one-match challenge—Boy Scouts, survival nuts and shipwrecked folks everywhere pride themselves in being able to build a source of heat, light and comfort using one single match. But if your motto is “Be prepared,” why would you ever be stuck with just one match? The marooned have a better excuse. Wind and water make match fires difficult, though, so why not take it one step further and go for the no-match fire?

 The theory remains the same as with a one-match fire. You need to start with excellent tinder—like birch or cedar bark, wood shavings, cotton balls dipped in Vaseline or spilled jet fuel. Kindling comes next—small branches no thicker than your thumb or forlorn FedEx packages. If it snaps when you break it, it’s dry enough to burn. Once you get your no-match fire going with a sustained flame, you can add progressively bigger firewood.

Now for the fun part. Lighting a no-match fire is easy. You won’t need to build a bow drill contraption or mine for quartzite to bang together. We have the technology. In adverse conditions, turn to a stormproof lighter to produce flames with the intensity of a blowtorch. Try the Trekker from Ultimate Survival Technologies ($60; ultimatesurvivaltech.com). 

Stormproof lighters reach 2,000°F, can withstand 80-mile-per-hour winds and survive a dunk. Unlike a lone match, a full tank of butane should last up to 30 minutes and the electric starters are good for 30,000 ignitions—that’s a lot of no-match fires.

If a stormproof lighter is a little too 21st century for you, how about a no-match fire-lighting technique discovered thousands of years before matches? A flint and firesteel like the FireSteel 2.0 Scout from Light My Fire ($15; lightmyfire.com) is another excellent tool. Drop them in the lake and they still work fine. They’ll also spark in high winds. Hold your flint about 30 degrees to your tinder and strike hard and slow with the steel. Voila!

Like with a one-match fire, the amount and positioning of your tinder and kindling is what matters most. All that’s left now is to celebrate by dancing around the flames with your deflated companion, Wilson.

This article was originally published in the Spring 2013 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Spring 2013 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Jeff West: 1970 – 2012

Photo: Gene Fleishel
Jeff West: 1970 - 2012

Doug Ammons on Jeff West

The first time I had personal contact with Jeff West, he emailed me, asking about the Grand Canyon of the Stikine. At first I didn’t realize whom the letter was from, because it had the tone of a 12-year-old boy bubbling with enthusiasm about his dreams. There was an exclamation point at the end of every sentence.

“Dear Mr. Ammons, I’ve always wanted to run the Stikine! I’ve dreamed about it! I have kayaked for more than 15 years! I’m on the river all the time because I love it, and it’s also my job! Can you believe it? People pay me to teach them to kayak! That’s the greatest job in the world! I’m so lucky!”

The letter was vintage Jeff. You’d get the same thing if you met him for the first or the thousandth time, shook hands with this big handsome guy, saw his open smile and heard the breathless passion for paddling pour out without a hint of ego.

His bubbling enthusiasm was coupled with the intelligence, focus and power of a mature man. His can-do boyishness was charming, his sense of humor a hoot and somehow he was an innocent—loved every instant on the river, every instant off it and every person he ever met.

In the late 90s, as a top-level freestyler and creeker, he was invited by Scott Lindgren to join a team of all-stars, doing badass runs for classic hardcore paddling films like Burning Time. He was tempted, but said, “I realized that I loved teaching people to kayak. Paddling hard whitewater across the world is a dream, but I loved teaching on the Ocoee and staying in the southeast more.” Maybe it was a bad career move in some ways, but he was glad he made that decision. “It’s where I belong. It’s what I love doing.”

It was also where his mother Barbara lived. Listening to him talk about his mother was a treat by itself. There was love and gratitude in every word. “I owe everything to her. She gave up her marriage and own comfort to lead me into the outdoors when I was young, and supported me in everything no matter what. All the things I love about kayaking and nature come from what she did.”

Jeff did more vertical miles in a day than anybody ever has. He took this difficult and obscure feat in paddling and made it into an aesthetic goal. Green Truss of the White Salmon, Green River in North Carolina, West Prong and others scattered around the states. Last August, we met on the North Fork of the Payette, warmed up on several sections, then he did a vertical mile. Up through August he had eight of them, with another six planned for the coming year.

We talked a lot before our trip to the Stikine last fall, in between his 70-hour weeks of teaching. We continued the talks on the long drive up north. In the months before we left, he lost two brothers to cancer, then a close friend in a kayaking accident. A week before he flew to meet me in Missoula, his father died of cancer. Jeff himself had a serious health condition despite being in extraordinary physical condition. Even in the face of the huge emotional upheaval from all this, he was focused and coherent, earnest and funny.

Perhaps he was trying to fill his loss with a deep drive to find inspiration to live. He was facing a major change in his life due to his health problems and seemed to be squeezing everything he could out of every moment. Or maybe he was just being Jeff.

It seemed he was determined to replace his sadness with his passion for kayaking and the beautiful intensity of hard whitewater. The Stikine was top on that list. All his incredibly hard work, all the skills he had, all the fire and passion within him led him to that river.

How do you say goodbye to a friend you admire so much? The smile and the laugh, the innocence and enthusiasm. The strength and skill. How do you say goodbye to Superman? By remembering what he was like in life.  

September 2012: Stikine River, BC

On September 8, 42-year-old Jeff West joined Stikine pioneer Doug Ammons for a run of the Grand Canyon of the Stikine. Ammons was heli-evaced after taking a nasty swim at Pass/Fail rapid. After ensuring Ammons’ safety, West completed the remaining 70 percent of the canyon on his own.

This was West’s second trip to the unrivaled 52-mile section of high-volume, class V+ Sti- kine, following his 2010 expedition with Todd Wells and Erik Boomer. That trip saw the trio complete a single-day descent by kayak. Ammons was the first to complete a solo run over three days in 1992.

September 10, two days after his descent with Ammons, West set out alone to attempt the first solo one-day run of the Stikine. His last words to Ammons were, “Just think of all that amazing whitewater in there. I can’t believe I’m about to have the privilege

to run it.” Then he paddled off into the rain.

Three hours after he started, another expedition spotted him portaging Site Zed, the crux rapid of the Stikine and a third of the way through the canyon. West failed to make the takeout by nightfall.

The following day, the Dease Lake Royal Canadian Mounted Police detachment received a report that West’s body had been found floating in an eddy about a mile above Wolftrack Rapid, entering the final third of the canyon.

Fellow paddlers supported his decision to undertake the solo single-day run, trusting West’s judgment and strength as a kayaker. Unusual features due to the water level were also reported. Because West was alone, it remains unclear exactly what happened on the river that day. 

Tributes and Memories from Friends and Fellow Paddlers

JOE JACOBI
Olympic gold medalist and current CEO of USA Canoe/ Kayak was a student of West’s.

“In 2006, Jeff helped certify me to become an American Canoe Association instructor. Coming in, I felt the clinic was somewhat of a formality for me but Jeff challenged my ideas and helped me to see instructional concept from a new perspective. Those four days learning from Jeff six years ago put me on a path of innovation and creativity in instruction that I still carry forward today in promoting the sport.”

KAT LEVITT
Kat Levitt became friends with West in the late ‘90s, spending countless days together on the Ocoee.

“My first season on the Ocoee, Jeff convinced me I was ready to paddle the Green. Mostly, I think he wanted me to drive there in my SUV. As broke raft guides, our trip was doubtful. We rummaged through our cars and the Ace couch for money. I hit the jackpot, finding a $50 savings bond in my glove box. I cashed it in, filled the tank and off we went. I survived my run, wearing flip-flops and no elbow pads. That night, we ate burritos and ice cream cones, and watched Godzilla at the dollar cinema. I’ve never felt more alive.”

TODD WELLS
Top expedition boater Todd Wells first paddled with West on the Stikine in 2010.

“Paddling the Stikine had been on Jeff ’s bucket list for a long time and all summer he had been doing attainments on the Ocoee and laps on the Green with a 35-pound dumbbell strapped inside his kayak. Erik Boomer was the third member of our team and would be leading our way. Jeff had been one of Boomer’s main mentors growing up, taking him on his first trip down the Grand Canyon, and Boomer had been one of mine, teaching me the fundamentals of kayaking throughout my teenage years.

“When we finally put on the river, every rapid felt bigger and more ex- citing than the last. At Site Zed, we decided to portage the top of the rapid and run the ABC Line down the bottom portion. Boomer wanted to take photos, so it was now up to Jeff and I to navigate our way downstream.

Jeff led the charge, peeling out of a small eddy with powerful forward strokes. I followed close behind. We were each other’s only means of safety. I’d never before felt as happy and satisfied as I did when I got to the bottom of Site Zed with Jeff, and I think he felt a similar sensation.

“The day after we took off the river, we explored some tributaries and somehow decided that the following day we were going to attempt a one-day decent of the Stikine. Boomer and I slept through our 5:30 alarm, but Jeff, already in his paddling gear, was quick to wake us up and get us on our way. We put on the river before six surrounded by an eerie fog. When the sun came up we paddled through Entry Falls and started our daylong adventure. That day on the Stikine was the best single day of paddling I’ve ever had. I was glad to share it with Jeff and it’s a memory that will last forever.”

DAVID LEVITT
Longtime friend and fellow creeker, David Levitt logged three vertical-mile-in-a-day runs with West.

“Parked at 10,000 feet and surrounded by snow, our water bottles were freezing into solid blocks of ice. Snug in zero bags, wearing our boating layers and enveloped in total darkness, we awakened to the sounds of pounding on the truck window. It was not going to stop until we emerged and geared up. Jeff was awake and ready to start paddling. In a matter of moments, folded peanut butter sandwiches were stuffed into mouths. Boats were being dragged down the trail before daylight began to break.

“On the water, it was understood that quick glances over the shoulder while we stayed in the flow were the norm. We didn’t race, but paddled the flats and rested in the rapids, making well-timed strokes as needed. We watched each other’s backs, but did not eddy out without a clear purpose or need. There was no stopping for a drink or snack. Water and food were on the shuttle. In the case of something really big, like Stairway to Heaven on Bear, the leader would float for a moment to check that the guy behind him was in control at the bottom. Then into the next drop we headed. There were few words at those times, but Jeff ’s ideas and strategy were behind it all. He motivated, inspired, encouraged, and sometimes demanded things of us. He was our coach, mentor, teammate and friend.”

CHRIS TOWNSEND
West and Chris Townsend first got to know one another on a 1999 trip down the Grand Canyon of the Colorado.

“Jeff West and I traveled the southeast and abroad experiencing the best the natural world has to offer. Jeff was already a world-class kayaker when we met. However, over the years I watched him develop every ounce of physical and mental ability. I have never seen an athlete push himself as hard as Jeff West. In the last two years of his life, he left most of us behind; we simply could not keep up with him.

“After his first successful decent of the Stikine, he started paddling alone more frequently. Many of his paddling friends took phone calls from Jeff while he was on Bear Creek. He was having such a good time, he had to share it with someone.

“The most interesting observation about Jeff may have been his lack of desire for notoriety. He very rarely acknowledged any of his accomplishments and when people brought them up, he was dismissive. He would much rather be talking about his next mission.”

This article on Jeff West was published in the Spring 2013 issue of Rapid magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2013 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here.

Thailand: Searching for Whitewater in Monsoon Season

All photos this page: Tyler Fox
Thailand: Searching for Whitewater in Monsoon Season

Known for its hot, sunny beaches, Thailand is an idyllic travel destination for most of the year. During the three-month monsoon from July to September however, tourists run for cover. As copious amounts of rain falls, streams, creeks and rivers swell creating the ideal conditions for a kayaking trip.

Most tourists go to Thailand for its rich history of Buddhism, agriculture and dynasty. As a kayaking destination, it’s still in its infancy and the abundance of steady, virgin whitewater makes it appealing. The underdeveloped paddling scene offers an element of exploration— as long as you are willing to put in some effort to seek out the runs, you will be rewarded.

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STARTING THE ADVENTURE

Our adventure started the moment we stepped off the plane in Bangkok. We made it our mission to get out of Bangkok as quickly as possible with plans to return later in our trip once we grew more accustomed to traveling in Thailand. For the moment, we focused on making our way north to Chiang Mai, home to the country’s best whitewater. There’s a direct train that takes passengers across the 750-kilometer stretch of jungle and countryside to Chiang Mai but our group of four hired a rental car. We craved the freedom to explore the rivers and falls along the road north.

Finding a quality rental car in Bangkok was easy; the hard part was getting it out of the city. Traffic signs are written in Thai and we shared the road intimately with thousands of bicycles, mopeds and tuk-tuks—moped taxis. I felt confident navigating my way through Bangkok’s narrow, congested side streets, my passengers with their heads out the windows making sure I didn’t run anyone over. Then I merged onto the highway. The congestion didn’t disperse. Instead, still more cars and mopeds packed even closer together and moved at a much quicker pace. The blood finally returned to my fingertips when I loosened my white-knuckle grip 20 kilometers outside the city.

UNDERSTANDING NAMTOK

As we made our way north, our time and budget allowed us to chase the great white namtok—the Thai term for waterfall. With the motivation to get off the beaten path and a penchant for mischief, it wasn’t hard to get sidetracked for a couple of days.

We quickly developed a love-hate relationship with the signs the Thai people have erected to celebrate their beloved falls. A road sign marks almost every drop in the country. After passing a handful, we finally decided to turn off the highway in search of a runnable waterfall.

We followed the signs to an obscure trailhead and down a path. The beauty of the trail was overshadowed by the soupy midday humidity. Still we excitedly ran the final 100 meters to the water’s edge. Only a few of the dozens of signs we followed gave any more information than the waterfall’s name, so it took us a moment to realize that the shallow brook trickling onto a pile of rocks in front of us was the main attraction.

With no well-established source for river beta and our elementary command of the Thai language, we were skunked more then once. However, failures like this were always quickly forgotten. Every beautiful drop, big and small, is hidden away in a jungle paradise.

EXPLORING CHIANG MAI

Chiang Mai is a great base for paddlers looking to spend an extended period in the area as it’s central to a good deal of the known boating in northern Thailand. The city itself was built in 1292, complete with surrounding moat and defensive wall to keep out the encroaching Mongol empire. Nowadays, it acts as the northern hub for commerce, tourism, and religion. We settled into our cheap rooms. At 200 Baht per night—just six bucks—the place was no Hilton, but offered a satisfactory place to sleep and beat overnighting in the car.

On good information from a friend, we made our way to the Siam River Adventures Center in downtown Chiang Mai. We were met by the lovely and hospitable owner Lah, who quickly set us up with a shuttle to the top of the river. The last leg of our route was by elephant, kayaks and all.

Travelers visiting Thailand on a shorter trip wanting to pack in as much paddling as possible will find everything they need in Chiang Mai. Like most kayaking destinations in and around the equator, flow is very dependant on rainfall. Luckily, it comes down in bucket- loads this time of year. Even during dry spells, though, there is still one really good option close by. The commercially rafted Mae Tang River—technical and boulder-strewn in low water and raging big-volume in high water— is just north of the city.

Chiang Mai also has plenty to do during time off the water. We took time to explore some of the city’s 300 Buddhist temples, indulging in the amazing cuisine and immersing ourselves in the vibrant Thai culture.

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UNPADDLED WHITEWATER AND LOCAL AUTHORITIES

We spent much of our time hunting unpaddled whitewater, but when the big rains came, it was impossible to resist the known quality runs within a couple hours’ drive of Chiang Mai. Our first stop was the Mae Pan waterfall located in Doi Intatnon National Park.

After hurrying our boats and gear down the short trail to the falls, we quickly roped our kayaks to the top of the drop. I found myself sitting above a gorgeous horizon line, blasted by the mist from the thunderous 100-meter falls in the backdrop. We ran the 15-meter Mae Pan Falls and regrouped for high fives and hugs in the pool below before paddling the section’s remaining rapids. Energized from the morning’s session we quickly headed to the neighboring, equally spectacular Mae Klang River to round off an awesome day of paddling.

The region is teeming with other amazing pool and drop sets that would certainly be classics if anybody really paddled there. We hit the Mae Sa, a river that feels like a waterslide amusement park. Its put-in is at the Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens, with boofs and slides past greenhouses, around bam- boo huts and through dangling jungle vegetation. Elephants trudge along the banks as the river passes through the Mae Sa Elephant Camp, eventually winding its way into the national park ending at the Mae Sa waterfall.

The Mae Sa run ends in a picture-perfect, six-meter drop. Park rangers stopped us moments before we could huck the drop, afraid we would be washed over the falls to our death. After some failed negotiating, they politely escorted us out of the park and back to our car, cutting the day short by one rapid.

Unable to explain our intent and that we are a group of experienced, capable and safe boaters, we decided on an it’s-easier-to-beg-forgiveness-than-ask-for-permission tactic. On some occasions we were able to persuade the rangers to let us back on the water, but a smile and double thumbs up only got us so far. Many of the park rangers carry machine guns, which made the whole begging for forgiveness thing a little dicey.

THE PERFECT WHITEWATER DESTINATION

Thailand offers lots of options for those with a bit more time on their hands looking to diversify their trip. Paddlers often jump the border into Laos to try one of that country’s many multi-day runs through undisturbed rainforest. Away from the whitewater, travelers flock south to the renowned warm, sandy beaches of Phuket Island where they kick back and relax, enjoy some world-class snorkeling, scuba diving and bumming around the beach. Those not into relaxing can join the 30,000 revelers who gather at Koh Phangan for the epic full moon parties that happen every 28 days.

Whatever your schedule, save at least a day or two before heading back to the airport to enjoy the circus that is Bangkok. It is an experience in and of itself. We hung out on the Khao San Road strip, the epicenter of tourist activity. With plenty of good restaurants and bars, and more cheap street vendors than you can shake a stick at, we explored a different kind of jungle. The nightlife wasn’t too bad either.

Thailand is much more than your standard kayaking destination. Rivers unfrequented by paddlers, more than enough spectacular attainable waterfalls and warm hospitality make it a perfect whitewater destination. Our trip was as much about the culture, cuisine and countryside as it was kayaking and we weren’t disappointed. When monsoon is listed as the reason, I now know to ignore the “When not to go” section of my guidebook. 

This article on Thailand's whitewater was published in the Spring 2013 issue of Rapid magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2013 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here.

Nova Craft Canoe: Never Say Die

Photo: Beth Kennedy
Nova Craft Canoe: Never Say Die

The Ocoee rides again. Proclaimed one of the best solo whitewater open boats of all time, the Ocoee was rereleased this February by Nova Craft Canoe.

Designed by the late Frankie Hubbard and Dagger in 1996, this remarkable recreational open boat was the first to transition from a shallow arch hull to a flatter bottom—the Ocoee had hard edges in a world where rounder, softer edges were the norm. When Dagger got out of the open boat market six years ago, Bell Canoe Works picked up the mould, only to cease production four years later. The Ocoee’s absence from the mar- ket has been keenly felt since.

“The Ocoee has a cult following,” says Joe Pulliam, co-founder of Dagger. “To this day it’s considered one of the benchmarks in high-performance, whitewater solo boating.”

Famed for its high waterline, hard chines and extreme rocker, the Ocoee has been embraced by aggressive paddlers, and made a meal of out more than a few beginners. It’s been used for everything from winning rodeos to class V creeking. Voted the best open boat of all time in 2012 by readers of Rapid magazine, the fact that the Ocoee is easily cus- tomized and a favorite of instructors has further boosted its popularity.

“This is big news for open boating,” says Emma Stinson, a whitewater canoe instructor and one of almost 50 paddlers to pre-order an Ocoee. The re-launch news ended Stinson’s four-year hunt for the perfect boat. “I love the secondary stability, the gorgeous lines it carves, the way it handles big water—I can’t wait to get out in it.”

“Dagger had some wonderful canoe designs and I’m really happy to see those great designs still in production,” says Pulliam. He’s not her- alding this as the rebirth of open boating, but he does believe competi- tion will be good for the open canoe market. “More competition could drive more sales and interest.”

Roch Prevost of Nova Craft Canoe, anticipates their first year sales to be overwhelming—“the joke is we hope we’ll still sell some in the second year.”

He’s expecting to sell close to 100 Ocoees in 2013—a big deal for a small market. “The Ocoee is one of the best canoes for solo paddling. Because it hasn’t been available for two years, there’s a high demand.”

Paddlers can expect Nova Craft’s Ocoee to be available in two lay-ups and in red, green and burgundy. It comes standard with vinyl trim and roto- molded decks. Ready for outfitting, it retails for $1,499 CAD. 

This article on Nova Craft Canoe was published in the Spring 2013 issue of Rapid magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2013 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here.

Face Your Freshwater Fears

All photos this page: Virginia Marshall
Face Your Freshwater Fears

At a time of the year when bitter winds and frosty mornings are driving most paddlers south to more inviting locales, a young event lures a hardy tribe north. For a restless week in the autumn of 2012, these wind chasers convened on a seven-acre point of surf-pounded rock and dumping beaches on the north shore of Lake Superior. 

SECOND CLASS CITIZENS

People standing at Lake Superior“I signed up for this by mistake,” Susan confides, her secret feeling safe within our intimate huddle. Nervous laughter sends puffs of condensation into the chill air. We’re pressed beneath a malevolent sky, shoulders braced against a biting wind that cuts through our layers of fleece and wool, Gore-Tex and neoprene. Booties crunch on pea gravel coagulated with ice as we bob up and down, trying to get warm. Susan is the only one who’s said it, but I scan the pinched faces of the others, wondering if I will see it written there. Mistake.

Moments later, having finished our round of class introductions—“Hi, my name is Virginia. I’m just here to watch… really, if you guys want to practice rescues and swimmer landings, I’ll just shoot photos”—we’re using paddle blades to chip ice off our seats. Lead coach Shawna Franklin demonstrates “speed launching” and invites us to follow suit. The maneuver involves shooting your empty kayak into the water, diving after it to belly flop onto the deck, and then rodeoing your butt and legs into the cock- pit whilst gliding serenely away from the beach.

Hmm, I see what you’re doing here, getting us wet now so it won’t come as such a shock later… very clever.

Still, Franklin, a BCU 5-star coach and co-owner of Body Boat Blade International in Washington’s San Juan Islands, makes the maneuver look so graceful we can’t help but try to do the same, with varying degrees of success.

It’s our second morning at the Gales Storm Gathering on Lake Superior and the weather has been typical for October: 35-knot winds, heavy swell and bone-chilling temperatures. It’s just these types of conditions that event organizers were counting on when they invited top coaches from across the U.S. and Canada and as far away as Wales to their second-annual rough-water sea kayak festival at Michipicoten Bay on the lake’s Ontario shore.

“Most symposiums are in the summer and you’re paddling on flatwater,” explains Gales co-founder Keith Wikle, a freelance instructor and GoKayakNow.com blogger from Kalamazoo, Michigan. In 2011, Wikle partnered with Ryan Rushton of Chicago’s Geneva Kayak Center and together they conceived an event where Great Lakes paddlers could train in ocean-like conditions under the supervision of top-level coaches.

“We wanted to create a venue where you can take that next step in real conditions, with a safety net so that if you do have a swim it doesn’t end up being a fatal one,” Wikle says.

The pair borrowed the event’s name from the annual Gales of November Rendezvous, a carnage- heavy rough-water gathering organized by Great Lakes sea kayaking pioneer Stan Chladek in the early 1980s. The Halloween weekend meet-up was an informal, invitational get-together based around Agawa Bay, 50 miles south of Michipicoten. In its heyday in the early ‘90s, some 50-odd expert paddlers from around the world would join Chladek for epic tours and close calls in the surf.

Now in his seventies, Chladek still gathers the troops—today a handful of old friends and local paddlers—every October 31st, but Wikle and Rushton imagined a Gales that was accessible rather than exclusive. Yes, they would still invite some of the world’s best paddlers, but they would shift the focus to coaching and open the sign-up sheet to advancing beginners and experts alike, so long as they had a thirst for Superior’s notoriously rough fall waters.

“We make it clear that you need to be into wind and waves and even snow,” says Wikle.“You’re going to be cold and wet. It’s a smaller number of paddlers who are willing to embrace that.”

The inaugural Gales Storm Gathering drew some 45 participants and 15 instructors to Superior’s south shore in Marquette, Michigan. But while the city’s inner and outer harbors and proximity to the Menominee River offered an ample variety of conditions, Wikle and Rushton always planned to move locations from year to year.

“Moving the event makes it accessible to different groups of people and showcases the tremendous variety of paddling environments on Lake Superior,” says Wikle.

“ This is a rare opportunity in this part of the world with these coaches,” agrees Alec Bloyd-Peshkin, a guest instructor from Chicago,“and the venue is a huge highlight.”

Wawa doesn’t have a paddling town vibe. A blink-and-you-miss-it community amid the North Shore’s seemingly endless cyclorama of scraggly black spruce and stoic Shield lakes, the town’s primary attractions are a giant roadside likeness of a Canada goose and the mountainous, dollar-scoops of ice cream at Young’s General Store’s mock trading post. Several dirt road miles and 350 feet downhill at Michipicoten, however, is some of the finest kayaking on Superior. 

Rushton and Wikle found a keen partner in David Wells, owner of local sea kayaking outfitter Naturally Superior Adventures and 2012 Gales host, Rock Island Lodge. Situated at the mouth of the mighty Michipicoten River, Rock Island is wreathed in the often-turbid waters of one of the lake’s largest tributaries. Here, three-mile-per-hour currents collide with autumn swells reaching 10 feet or more, born from the longest fetch on Superior—nearly 350 miles to Duluth. The site promised just the sort of ocean-like exposure and challenging conditions the organizers wanted to showcase when they invited their coastal comrades to the Inland Sea.

“We often feel like second-class citizens because we’re on freshwater,” Wikle says,“But the Michipicoten has enough current to create tidal race conditions. That’s the Lake Superior we want to show off, especially to paddlers from the coast.”

Along with Franklin and Body Boat Blade partner Leon Sommé, headline instructors at Gales 2012 included Wales’ Nick Cunliffe, Halifax’s Christopher Lockyer, BCU senior coach Scott Fairty and around-Ireland paddler Sam Crowley. “ These are the leaders in our community,” says Wells. “Of course we have something to prove.”

Person kayaking on Lake Superior

“WHAT KIND OF FLOWERS DO YOU WANT AT YOUR FUNERAL?”

Michipicoten is a long drive from anywhere. I roll down the narrow causeway onto Rock Island at dusk after a full day behind the wheel. Beyond my passenger window the surf dumps explosively on the steep gravel of Government Beach. Out the driver’s side, even the sheltered bay just inside the river mouth is tossed with whitecaps. I drive past a line of tents clinging tenuously to the beach, park behind a windbreak of twisted cedar, throw my sleeping bag in the back of my van and fall into dreams of being blown out to sea on a Therm-a-Rest.

I’m grateful for a slow start the following morning. Gale-force winds have stymied the morning workshops and the final evaluations for the score of participants who signed up for a pre-symposium coaching week. After four days of drilling, they gather in the lodge around the warmth of a roaring fire, content to merely watch a frenzy of white horses galloping across Michipicoten Bay as the wind tosses horizontal sheets of rain against the windowpanes.

Conversation circles from the weather, the schedule and the best gear to anxieties about their impending assessment. Inevitably, there’s some light-hearted jesting. “Are you ready for the night navigation exercise tonight?” Steve asks Tammy as 11-foot breakers thunder up the river mouth. Without missing a beat, Tammy retorts, “ What kind of flowers do you want at your funeral?”

A petite woman in her late sixties, Tammy took up paddling after retirement and is now a sea kayaking junkie. She drives all over the East to train with many of the sport’s best coaches. After eight days of Gales, she’s heading down to Georgia’s Tybee Island for a week of Greenland-style instruction, and then pushing into South Carolina for several days of private coaching with Scotland’s Gordon Brown. Tammy’s paddling knowledge now extends well beyond strokes and rescues; she can also tell you the strengths and weaknesses of a regular who’s who of top kayaking brass.

It’s the calibre of the instructor roster, she tells me, that drew her to Gales. The event brings together instructors from BCU, ACA and Paddle Canada doctrines, allowing participants to sample the field. “It’s wonderful to be exposed to so many different instructional styles,” Tammy says. She describes BCU coaching week lead, Nick Cunliffe, as “an amazing instructor with really helpful feedback,” a senti- ment echoed by many of the other Gales students about their respective coaches.

Okay, so it’s a privilege to be under the wing of such accomplished paddlers and teachers. But as we gather on the rocks at the river mouth to watch Cunliffe and Sam Crowley, owner of Michigan-based Sea Kayak Specialists, poke their bows into a 40-knot s’wester, I wonder if part of the attraction is in witnessing the masters made mortal.

As Cunliffe and Crowley edge further and further into the crashing waves, Steve calls a play-by-play commentary: “Oh, Sam is out of his boat!” he yells when Crowley pushes too far and is caught between an avalanching set and the steep face of surf-washed beach. Moments later, he’s crowing, “Now I don’t feel so bad!” as a soggy Crowley staggers ashore sans kayak. 

A SOCIAL VENUE

People eating dinnerWikle is expecting 40 participants for the rough-water weekend, and when they join the nearly 20 coaches in the lodge’s dining room for lunch, the scene resembles a crowded school cafeteria. Or a class of ’83 reunion— the demographic at Gales is typical for sea kayaking; clearly adrenaline-charged surfs aren’t just a young person’s game.

With the wind still gusting to well over 30 knots, the river mouth remains a no-paddle zone. Most head upriver for workshops on paddling in current, maneuvering in wind and waves, and practicing advanced rescues, while a handful of keeners convoy to nearby Sandy Beach for a surfing lesson. With its long, shallow approach, Sandy is a “spilling” beach—the waves break gradually, dispersing their energy as they roll ashore—making it a more forgiving training ground. Even so, with the intense onshore wind, students and coaches alike are soon exhausted. It takes every last ounce of effort to merely hold position in the shore wash, let alone punch out through the breakers. Spinning a 16- or 17-foot craft 180 degrees to surf back in is all but impossible.

Eventually, a couple of participants abandon their boats on the sand in favor of body surfing. Like a massive heat sink, Lake Superior maintains its summer temperature well into the fall, making the famously cold lake feel comparably balmy on bracing autumn days. In drysuits, we discover, being in the water is more comfortable than being on it. Before long, the whole class is belly flopping into the surf, our unflappable coaches leading the charge.

Like the animated scene in the dining room earlier, the impromptu body surfing session demonstrates that Gales is as much a social venue as it is a place to hone rough-water skills.

By day two the wind has abated to a manageable 10–15 knots and the coaches are able to move their classes out into the bay. While I’m watching Franklin speed launch, Wells wanders over. Gazing across the frozen beach at the colorful clusters of shivering figures and rime-crusted boats, he marvels, “Look how many people are on the water in sub-zero temperatures—it’s frickin’ awesome!”

Tracing a coastline of long, gravel beaches and billion-year-old bedrock points, Franklin leads our group through a progression of landing and launching exercises. Then it’s the students’ turn. Franklin asks Susan —the Ann Arbor, Michigan, paddler whose mistake, it turned out, was clicking ‘Register Now’ on the Gales website before she had all the facts—and two others, Tom and Sue, to direct an “emergency” group landing on an inhospitable, rocky spit exposed to the swell.

So far we’ve excelled as students, but it quickly becomes apparent that our leadership needs some work. A confident and capable paddler from Minneapolis, Sue doesn’t think there’s a safely manageable landing for a group on the point. Tom, a local in his mid-forties, disagrees but doesn’t want to be the first to land—inexplicably, he suggests Sue lead the assault. Meanwhile, Susan says little—later she’ll tell us she felt excluded by her co-leaders.

We bob around in the unsettled waters for what feels like an eternity, our designated leaders mired in indecision. Finally, Franklin tosses them a lifeline,“You could ask your group to help, and send one of your strongest students in first to land the others… you can send me if you like.”

Franklin sidles up to the rocks and steps nimbly onto a sliver of ledge, timing her exit with the surging rise and sucking fall of the waves against the smooth-polished stone. Sue lands next and suddenly our leaders are working together—if not a well-oiled machine, at least one that is no longer seized.

By evening, snowflakes are filling the air. We carpool into Wawa for dinner, heaters blasting as we bounce up the potholed track away from the lake. Dashing across the parking lot beneath the wall-eyed gaze of the Wawa Motor Inn’s 15-foot rooftop goose, we escape the flurries in the restaurant’s warm, woodsy sanctuary.

Over a basket of the Motor’s famous wings (chicken, not goose), Jeff, one of the coaching week students, fills me in on his assessment.“I worked really, really hard to learn I can stay [at the certification level] where I’m at,” he confesses. Jeff and his wife Michelle drove from Minneapolis to be at Gales, but he isn’t angry or even disappointed with this outcome.“Sam and Ryan didn’t just say ‘nope, you’re not good enough,’” Jeff says of his coaches. “ They gave me honest, useful, realistic feedback so I came away with a list of areas for improvement—somewhere to go from here.” 

MEMBERS OF AN ELITE TRIBE

Snowy kayaks by the beachSunday morning, sudden squalls alternate with sunshine and whitecaps are building beneath the schizophrenic sky. Superior has kept the coaches on their toes all weekend. Every day begins with an instructors’ planning meeting—a dozen of the international sea kayaking community’s brightest luminaries gathered around a battered wooden table and blazing woodstove in the lodge’s steamy kitchen. As you might expect, there’s plenty of discussion: stay and play at the river mouth? Carpool to a nearby beach? Or try to paddle to the beach?

Eavesdropping on the coaches’ discussion, I can see that this group— even with their tremendous cumulative skills and experience—is grappling with the same challenges as yesterday’s student leaders. The same challenges faced by all kayakers: complex environments and decisions, fatigue and uncertainty.

Wikle tells me later that, even more than the curveballs thrown by the weather, the skill level of the participants has surprised his guest coaches. “I’m told it’s quite high compared to other parts of the country,” he says,“it seems Great Lakes kayakers take developing skills and seamanship more seriously than many of their counterparts on the West Coast.”

Later that afternoon, the current flooding out of the river mouth pushes against the incoming swell, forming steep glassy rollers. The conditions are fleeting, with the wind returning before long, but it’s time enough for many of us to sample rough-water paddling at its rollicking best. Eager to catch long, cruisy surfs for ourselves, we crowd close together in the line-up—the area just outside where the waves begin to break.

Rushton takes off on a wave and I catch a steepening face just behind him. Accelerating into the trough ahead as the wave breaks, my kayak broaches and suddenly I’m side surfing—an out-of-control, Hail Mary move known as a bongo slide in surf parlance. Rushton’s ride has already ended and I’m sweeping towards him, pushed by the freight-training wave at an alarming speed. He looks up and we lock eyes— each seeing that I’m about to steamroll over him. Then, at the last possible moment, my bow veers back down-wave and I carve away, missing his boat by a few scant feet. When I see Rushton later in the line-up, he’s smiling,“There’s nothing like when your eyes meet on a wave.”

Riding waves with our mentors is both liberating and uniting.“An ‘aha!’ moment,” as Mark, a soft-spoken retiree and first-time surfer from Washburn, Wisconsin, puts it later.

After dinner, the lodge’s dining room is cleared for slideshow presentations. Local instructor and author Conor Mihell reads a chapter from his book The Greatest Lake, a history lesson on Chladek’s original Gales, accompanied by archival photos from those early years. Mihell pauses frequently for appreciative “oohs” and “ahs” from the audience as slides of cartwheeling kayaks appear on the screen behind him. We’re now members of the same elite tribe. 

Little snowman by the beach

A FRESH AND QUIET CONFIDENCE

Gathering for Wikle and Rushton’s event wrap-up Monday afternoon, we are tired and stiff-limbed. But there’s something else engraved in the weary visages—a fresh, quiet confidence that wasn’t there before.

Most of us have tripped on the Michipicoten’s fickle currents, or wiped sand from our ears and eyes when the fleeting union of wave and kayak eluded us. But we have also learned the unforgettable, inimitable sensation of harnessing that power and riding a peeling left all the way to the beach, of rolling effortlessly on a pillowy foam pile. Of being soggy and tired and heading back out for one more ride.

Before we part ways, Tammy tells me a story. She met a young woman this weekend, a recent inductee into the paddling community. The woman told Tammy that, contrary to the opinions of non-paddling friends back home, she didn’t believe she was addicted to kayaking. She pulled on a wool hat as she spoke, finished dressing for a rough-water rescues workshop. The lodge’s thermometer read 23 degrees Fahrenheit.“If you’re going out today,” Tammy told her,“then you’re addicted to kayaking.” 

This article on conquering freshwater fears was published in the Spring 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

12 Adventures for Your Best Paddling Year Ever

Photo: Fredrik Marmsatar
12 Adventures for Your Best Paddling Year Ever

A life list can be daunting. Its very name suggests a time frame that’s difficult to imagine, and certainly hard to plan for. Calling your register of dreams a “bucket list” only adds a looming air of finality and regret. Not helpful at all.

Which is why we’ve taken the idea and ideals of a life list and applied them to a single year. Because we believe you don’t have to settle for the trip of a lifetime—you can enjoy an outstanding adventure each month, and make every year your best year ever.

JANUARY: BUILD YOUR OWN KAYAK

“It’s a real high to build a boat, put it in the water and paddle away,” says Dan Jones, a veteran builder who lent us a Pygmy Murrelet. Kits are available to suit every design preference; all you need is time and a warm workshop. Start your project after the holidays—planning to begin earlier can lead to procrastination or, even worse, cut into time on the water. Start too late and your hot new ride won’t be ready for spring—count on two or three months if you’re only working on it evenings and weekends. Once you slip into your gleaming labor of love, how- ever, you may be hooked: Jones is already planning his 12th home-build. Accelerate your project with a weeklong workshop. Try Maine’s Wooden Boat School, Port Townsend’s Pygmy Kayaks or Peterborough, Ontario’s Bear Mountain Boats. 

www.thewoodenboatschool.com | www.pygmyboats.com | www.bearmountainboats.com

FEBRUARY: VAMOS AL SUR! 

Escape the winter blues and head south for sun, surf and salsa. With bountiful marine life, endless beaches and an established sea kayaking scene, the

Sea of Cortez in Baja is a favorite destination for many migrating paddlers. For kayaking that will blow your mind, travel south to Patagonia’s fiords and paddle past the snow-capped volcanoes, towering waterfalls and inviting hot springs. Ever try paddling at altitude? Located at a literally breathtaking 12,500 feet between Bolivia and Peru, Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake and a truly unique kayaking destination.

www.bajakayakadventures.com | www.exchile.com | www.titicacakayakadventure.com

MARCH: PADDLE WITH MANATEES 

Once mistaken for mermaids by lovelorn (or desperate?) sailors, the admittedly curvaceous manatees make fascinating paddling companions. During

winter cold snaps, hundreds of these gentle sea creatures gather in the warmer waters around natural springs in Florida’s Crystal and Homosassa rivers. Paddling through the crystalline shallows is a low-impact way to enjoy these herds of inquisitive animals—manatees are under threat from powerboat traffic and other human activities—and hook your kids or friends on the joys of kayaking.

www.floridakayakcompany.com

APRIL: SAIL DOWN UNDER 

With over 25,000 kilometers of coastline from tropical Queensland to the storm-tossed Great Southern Ocean, Australia is a magnet for surfers, sailors and kayakers alike. Paddle the white sand beaches of the Whitsunday Islands at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef—one of the Seven Wonders of the natural world—to get up close and personal with sea turtles, manta rays and whales. Take advantage of Tasmania’s location in the notoriously windy Roaring 40s and try your hand at the classic Tassie Rig for some wild kayak sailing, Aussie-style. Across the Tasman Sea, Kiwis love to sail almost as much as their neighbors. Fill your sheet on the sun-kissed waters of New Zealand’s Abel Tasman coast.

www.saltydog.com.au | www.roaring40skayaking.com.au | www.abeltasmankayaks.co.nz

MAY: SPRING TUNE IT UP

Looking to venture into exposed waters, improve your roll or practice rescues? Hone rusty skills and learn new ones with a few days of spring training—for specific course offerings in your area, check out the websites of the American Canoe Association, Paddle Canada and BCU North America. If the kayaking bug really has you bit, sign up for an instructor or guide course—teaching and leading will test your ability to effectively commu- nicate key points and can help fine-tune your own skills. 

www.paddlingcanada.com | www.americancanoe.org

JUNE: RACE OF A LIFETIME 

For the ultimate mental and physical challenge, sign up for the Yukon River Quest—the world’s longest annual canoe and kayak marathon. Competitors race in solo, tandem and voyageur divisions, and must complete the more than 700 kilometers from Whitehorse to Dawson City in 72 hours or less. Competitors range from capable novices to internationally ranked professional athletes; however, many have discovered that wilderness experience and mental stamina count for as much as extreme fitness. Prepare yourself for amazing camaraderie, utter exhaustion and bizarre hallucinations as you race around the clock and under the midnight sun through some of Canada’s most beautiful landscapes. Toast the ghosts of the Gold Rush and celebrate your successful finish with a wild night in Dawson City.

www.yukonriverquest.com

JULY: FIND AN ICEBERG 

Every spring, bergs calved from the 15,000-year-old glaciers of western Greenland drift south on the Labrador current into Newfoundland’s famous Iceberg Alley. Kayaking the wild coast of the Rock in early summer will let you catch the tail end of the iceberg season and—if you are lucky—some precious sunny days. In the long summer sunlight, each iceberg—from intimate Toblerones to superstore-sized monoliths—glows with a thousand subtle shades of turquoise and sky blue. For icy encounters on the West Coast, head to Alaska’s easily accessible Mendenhall Lake in Tongass National Forest or venture into Prince William Sound to encounter icebergs birthed by the tide-water glaciers of the immense Chugach range.

www.nfkayak.com | www.sea-quest-kayak.com

AUGUST: DISCOVER THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE KAYAK 

Voyage past the Arctic Circle to start your journey in Pond Inlet on Baffin Island or the Scoresbysund fiord system in Greenland. Paddling these harsh waters during the brief ice-free season will give you a deep appreciation for the resourcefulness and courage of the people who dared hunt whales from their small skin crafts. On your trip, you’ll share this wild land with narwhals, musk oxen, arctic fox and polar bear—to say nothing of the plentiful and delicious Arctic char.

www.blackfeather.com

SEPTEMBER: CAMP ON YOUR OWN ISLAND

Sunny days, warm water, no crowds—with a bit of luck, early fall can be the perfect season to find your ultimate island paradise. Plan an after-Labor Day getaway to Georgian Bay, the Southeast’s Barrier Islands, the St. Lawrence’s 1000 Islands, Vancouver Island’s Broken Group or your nearest popular archipelago. Whether you go for a quick weekend trip or a longer adventure, the odds of claiming a private island paradise are in your favor. Enjoy the last days of summer by sunbathing, skinny dipping, cooking an unhurried feast over your driftwood fire and sleeping under the stars. Best of all, no mosquitoes! 

OCTOBER: LEARN TO SURF

As the fall storms blow in and the swells grow larger, a strange epidemic sweeps the kayaking community: Honest, hard-working folks mysteriously start calling in sick—a pattern that correlates directly to local wave size and wind strength. And who can blame us? October is jam-packed with opportunities to stretch surf skills. For surf-specific workshops and an all-around good time, sign up for a rough water festival. Try Oregon’s Lumpy Waters Symposium, Connecticut’s Autumn Gales, Georgian Bay Storm Gathering, Gales Storm Gathering on Lake Superior, or even the UK Storm Gathering in Wales. 

www.galesstormgathering.com | www.lumpywaters.com | www.kayakwaveology.com | www.ukstormgathering.blogspot.com 

NOVEMBER: STRETCH YOUR SEASON

For many paddlers in northern climes, November means a sad farewell to your kayak until spring. But with the right gear and a cozy fireplace (or sauna, or hot tub…) awaiting you, the off-season can be a memorable time to go paddling. Nothing compares to gliding across a wintry lake to the crystalline sound of wafer ice shattering beneath your hull. Rediscover familiar landscapes transformed by a fresh layer of snow or heavy frost. Appreciate the intricate beauty of water rivulets freezing on your paddle. Pack your pogies, fill your Thermos and make this the year you stretch your season. 

DECEMBER: HOLIDAYS IN HAWAII

Alternately caressed and pounded by the powerful Pacific Ocean, the Hawaiian Islands are blessed with diverse and awe-inspiring coastlines. The turquoise waters of Kailua Bay on Oahu are sheltered by outlying reefs and easily navigable even when other parts of the island are exposed to heavy swells. After launching in Kailua, paddle to Lanikai Beach, ranked one of the top beaches in the world, and play in the surf at the twin Mokulua Islands. Winter is big wave season in Hawaii—save remote and rugged paddling expeditions like the fabled Na Pali Coast of Kauai or the North Shore of Molokai for next year’s summer vacation.

www.kayakkauai.com | www.kailuasailboards.com

Charlotte Jacklein has spent the last decade researching this article by guiding and traveling in Hawaii, Newfoundland, Australia and Central America. She’s built her own boat, paddled through ice floes and competed twice in the Yukon River Quest. 

This article on your best paddling year ever was published in the Spring 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

7 Places to Live and Paddle More

Photo: Sander Jain
7 Places to Live and Paddle More

Charleston, South Carolina

Never grieve the end of paddling season again. Charleston’s sandy surf beaches, barrier islands and maze of protected inshore waters are welcoming year round. Palm trees, people watching and antebellum architecture make the historic waterfront a pleasant urban escape, and every April the East Coast Canoe & Kayak Festival attracts hundreds of paddlers, vendors and gawkers.

Dream Jobs: South Carolina Aquarium caretaker, NOAA weather egghead 

Juneau, Alaska

Bill Bryson solidified his birthplace as America’s most boring city, and Chuck Thompson’s descriptions of Juneau painted his hometown in an even less favorable light. But the Alaskan capital’s undeniable appeal for paddlers is proof that you can’t trust travel writers. Surrounded by the sheltered waters of the Inside Passage, world-class wilderness parks, tidewater glaciers and unmatched wildlife viewing are all within easy reach.

Dream Jobs: Sightseeing pilot, glacier dog sledding guide 

Tofino, British Columbia

Sure, it’s touristy, but the throngs of adven- ture-seekers and alternative-lifestylers give To- fino its funky surf-town vibe. Hit the breaks at Chesterman and Long beaches, hike the rainforest trails of neighboring Pacific Rim National Park, discover fanciful driftwood domiciles and explore Clayoquot Sound’s labyrinth of remote arms and verdant islands.

Dream Jobs: Water taxi driver, surf instructor 

Norris Point, Newfoundland

Surrounded by Gros Morne National Park, Norris Point’s colorful clapboard homes tumble downhill into the harbor and minke whales frequent the arms and tickles of Bonne Bay. Inland, more paddling abounds in the park’s spectacular, fiord-like lakes— known as ponds—and caribou share the Long Range Mountains with hikers, skiers and backpackers.

Dream Jobs: Kayak guide, park interpreter 

Arcata, California

Redwood trees thrive on the cool fogs and frequent drizzle of the northern California coast. So does a tight-knit community of organic farmers, artisans, students, paddlers, brewers and hippies just 25 miles south of Redwood National Park’s towering trees and unspoiled beaches. Intimate and erudite, Arcata offers kayakers everything from mellow jaunts on the Humboldt Lagoons to wild surf at Moonstone Beach to open coast touring around Trinidad Head.

Dream Job: Kokatat R&D team 

Killarney, Ontario

If you live to paddle, Killarney has everything you need. There’s just one general store, few year-round employers and no roads out of town aside from the lonely blacktop of Highway 637, but every resident is just steps from Georgian Bay. Ex- plore the flooded white quartzite mountains of Killarney Provincial Park, the pink gran- ite whalebacks of the French River delta and dozens of idyllic archipelagos in between.

Dream Jobs: Seasonal park ranger, Killarney Outfitters boat schlepper 

Marquette, Michigan

With a progressive, outdoor-oriented vibe, “Marquette is the white collar on the well-work workshirt that is Michigan’s Upper Peninsula,” says local photographer, Aaron Peterson.“It’s a center of culture and services in a region known for logging, mining and lightly populated hinterlands along the south shore of Lake Superior.” With a largely undeveloped shoreline, paddlers will find rock gardens, surf spots, sandstone caves and sandy beaches all within city limits. The 200-foot cliffs of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore are just 40 minutes to the east.

Dream Jobs: On campus at Northern Michigan U, four bike shops employ sprocket jockeys 

This article on the best places to live and paddle was published in the Spring 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Spring 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Don’t Blame The Weatherman: The Science Of Weather Prediction

person sits beside campfire and beached kayak listening to radio for a weather prediction
Despite the satellites and supercomputers, weather prediction is still just well informed guesswork. | Feature photo: Steve Rogers

Cinching my hood against the stinging rain, I chide myself for forgetting to check the forecast. There’s an irony to my soggy self-ridicule, of course. The last time I monitored the Weather Network for updates and confirmed sunny skies before a trip, it had also bucketed down.

Maxims about the accuracy (or inaccuracy) of weather forecasting are probably as old as the profession itself. But have you ever stopped to wonder exactly how meteorologists predict the weather?

Don’t blame the weatherman: The science of weather prediction

The Babylonians started using cloud patterns and astrology to predict weather as far back as 640 BC. Forecasting grew more scientific over the centuries, but it wasn’t until the invention of the electric telegraph in 1835 that forecasts became more accurate. For the first time, weather analysts could collect data almost instantly from a much wider area.

person sits beside campfire and beached kayak listening to radio for a weather prediction
Despite the satellites and supercomputers, weather prediction is still just well informed guesswork. | Feature photo: Steve Rogers

Data is king

Today, when it comes to making an accurate weather prediction, data is king. The more up-to-date data you can collect, and the faster you can process it, the more likely your forecast will prove true.

Getting that data from all over North America involves a high-tech network of weather stations, satellites, ocean buoys, radar stations, lightning detectors and weather balloons. Sophisticated sensors sample and record a wide range of information including air temperature, barometric pressure, wind speed and direction, cloud cover and height, visibility, wave height and water temperature.

To crunch all this raw data, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) uses a pair of twin IBM supercomputers called Stratus and Cirrus. Developed in 2009, this $180 million machine can store up to 160 terabytes of data and is capable of making nearly 70 trillion calculations per second, four times faster than the NOAA’s previous system. Stratus assembles and analyzes weather data from the thousands of weather stations, balloons, satellites and marine buoys and compares it against 20 weather models.

“Meteorologists used to look at a single model and base an entire forecast off that,” says Ben Kyger, director of central operations for the NOAA’s National Centers for Environmental Prediction in Maryland.

“Today, with the help of Stratus, those same meteorologists can look at all 20 models, set them in motion, and see how long they all predict the same weather. As long as all the models stay the same, the forecast is highly accurate,” Kyger says. “But that accuracy drops significantly when the weather models start to diverge.”

Satellites and supercomputers

In theory, this phenomenal number crunching should allow meteorologists to be as accurate with 10-day forecasts as they used to be with the seven-day outlook. Day six is the new day three. So why do they still seem to get long-term forecasts wrong?

Despite the satellites and supercomputers, weather prediction is still just well informed guesswork.

“Weather is extremely complex and sometimes seems to have a mind of its own,” says Toronto meteorologist Ron Bianchi.“There are so many environmental variables that can change at any given time that sometimes it feels like we really only know what the weather is going to be the day after it happened.”

Weather prediction tools

Satellites: First launched in 1960 by NASA, weather satellites allow forecasters to see weather systems on a national scale. Geostationary satellites orbit 36,000 kilometers above the equator at the same speed as the earth’s rotation, allowing continuous monitoring of weather systems. Polar orbit satellites produce highly detailed imagery of the earth’s surface, orbiting from pole to pole at an altitude of 860 kilometers.

Doppler radar: Radar stations send microwave pulses into local weather systems. Using radar, meteorologists can see the density of moisture in a storm and watch for rotating wind patterns that could evolve into a tornado.

Lightning detectors: Storm watchers also rely on 180 lightning detection sensors across North America to track the motion and intensity of thunderstorms. This system can detect up to 90 percent of strikes and determine their position within 500 meters.

Weather buoys: An extensive network of moored and drifting weather buoys surrounds North America, recording air temperature, wind speed and direction, wave height, swell period, water surface temperature and ocean current data.

David Johnston gets upset when the forecast is wrong, even if the day turns out to be sunny with light wind.

Cover of the Spring 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak magazineThis article was first published in the Spring 2013 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.


Despite the satellites and supercomputers, weather prediction is still just well informed guesswork. | Feature photo: Steve Rogers

 

Road Trip

Photo: Virginia Marshall
Kayak Road Trip

This essay complements the Ultimate Road Trips feature originally published in Adventure Kayak magazine. 

With a little common sense and ordinary caution, road tripping offers a freedom and perspective not found in the daily routine. From the snowy Siskyou Mountains to the stunning volume of Los Angeles traffic to blooming desert cacti, the view from the roof rack is the perfect antidote to the dust of the garage.

A road trip is a journey into another story. It’s not your everyday narrative or identity or even your everyday eyes. The freedom is not just a freedom to go, but to be; the newness isn’t only the scenery, but the internal chemistry. Awareness piques, and you can feel that energy from your paddler. From bow to stern, you just about tingle with possibility.

Explore remote coastlines where no kayak has been before. Share the sea with whales, perhaps a mother showing her calf their first migration. Meet other boats, and rest with new friends on a roadless beach while your paddlers drape themselves over sunny boulders to dry out. Cruise with old buddies along the quiet shores of a lake to a campout under the pines.

Rinse your parched hull in the Baja surf on ride after clean, green ride. Do it in the sunrise, by moonlight, against the afternoon wind. Feel the rumble of breaking waves shake the beach as you lie beneath the stars awaiting the next play. When you and your paddler are ready for another new view, load up and off you go.

When you take your paddler on a road trip, be sure she sets you up with some comfy saddles or a well padded bar, since road miles can rub you raw in sensitive places.

Do keep an eye on your paddler, as she will be out of her routine and liable to do brainless things. Don’t let her set the paddle on the ground to load you onto the truck, then get to talking with her traveling companion and drive off without it. Have her keep spare keys someplace safe. And have her tie your hatch covers on. They’re harder to replace when you’re away from home, and losing one could mean the end of your paddling.

Remind your paddler to apply the usual safety precautions: learn what she can about the area before launching, bring all safety equipment even if the paddle is intended to be short and easy, let someone who is not on the trip know the plan and let them know when you are back. 

In the end, you will forgive your paddler for the scratches, the rack rash and buckle bruises, and the sun bleaching if you’re out that long. You will both bring home stories, fresh momentum and a reminder that even the everyday details are special when one has the eyes to see them.

”Green Flash” has logged 10,000+ road miles atop Ginni Callahan’s pickup truck over the years, and some 6,000 miles aboard a sailboat across the Pacific in 2012.

For road trip ideas and itineraries, read Adventure Kayak, Spring 2013. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.

Scott Canoes Wilderness Canoe Review

Scott Canoes Wilderness Canoe

A review of the Scott Canoes Wilderness recreational canoe from Canoeroots & Family Camping magazine.

A great family canoe and Scott’s top seller for day paddlers looking for a relaxing, secure feeling craft. With a flat bottom, classic symmetrical hull and keel for excellent stability and tracking, the Wilderness inspires confidence in paddlers of all ability levels. It is big enough to load up for a weekend trip and small enough to handle at the cottage.

SCOTT CANOES WILDERNESS SPECS

LENGTH: 15’2″
WIDTH: 36″
MATERIAL: Fiberglass / Kevlar
WEIGHT: 50 / 60 LBS
MAX CAPACITY: 760 LBS
MSRP: $1,155 / $1,755 CDN (Fiberglass / Kevlar)

www.scottcanoe.com

 

This article originally appeared in Canoeroots & Family Camping, Early Summer 2012. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.