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Butt End: Danger Zone

Photo: istockphoto.com/Suzann Julien
Butt End: Danger Zone

I stood my ground when the moose started to charge, not believing it was a real threat. When it changed its gait from a gallop to a sprint, I reassessed the situation and ran my ass off toward the truck. 

What was I thinking? If I had come across the same animal while out on a trip instead of by the side of the highway I would have admired it from a distance, not blindly walked up to it snapping photos as if it were a supermodel. 

A few seconds into the chase I realized that being part of the high school running club was far behind me, but the moose wasn’t. He was closing in and the only thing to do was to start zig-zagging in hopes of confusing him. 

It was the blast of a passing truck’s horn that saved me in the end. Not my buddy Andy. He was too busy trying to turn on his video camera. The moose jolted at the sound of the horn, zigged when I zagged and gave up the chase.

You don’t have to tell me I’m an idiot. I’m well aware. But it’s not all the time. I’m a safety fanatic while out on a trip. It’s an approach that has saved my hide many times out there. The moment the trip is over, however, I forget all those over-the-top safety measures, as if being reconnected with civilization means I can turn my brain off. 

Prior to the moose attack I had spent two full weeks paddling the Kopka. It’s a remote river in northern Ontario that’s challenging enough in normal conditions but was in high flood during our trip. It was the most testing route I’ve ever done—and at no time did I let my safety slip into question. We scouted every rapid prior to running it. We hunkered down during a wind storm rather than take a chance surfing breaking waves. We encountered 10 bears and gave them all a respectful berth. We even used safety harnesses while portaging an incredibly steep portage around Kopka Falls. We were the poster paddlers for safe canoe tripping. 

It wasn’t long after starting our drive home that we passed the moose feeding along the roadside. We hadn’t seen a moose on the trip, so I pulled over to take a picture. I took the lens cap off and transformed from safety boy to idiot tourist. You know the rest.

And what happened to the moose? He went back into the woods where it was safe, perhaps questioning how humans survive in the civilized realm we call the real world. If I were an evolutionary biologist I’d be worried about us.

Kevin Callan has never been to Pamplona, Spain, but hears it is an exciting place.

This article was originally published in the Fall 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Fall 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Take a Hike

Photo: National Park Service
Take a Hike

Getting Started

Hiking may be the focus of your trip, or just a great way to break up long drives. To make your next outing with the kids energizing rather than exhausting, we’ve assembled some dos and don’ts for the hiking family.

• Do mix it up with fishing rods or bug nets to make it more than just a hike.

• Don’t be too ambitious—choose a shorter trail and slow down so kids can explore and ask questions.

• Do bring crayons, tracing paper, moulding clay and plants or animal field guides to make your hike a fun learning experience.

• Don’t diet on the trail—pack a tasty picnic.

• Do encourage shutterbugs—give children a camera to record their trip.

Delicate Arch Trail

Arches National Park, Utah

Cartoons come alive in this hole-in-the-rock wonderland. You won’t find obsessed coyotes chasing unflappable roadrunners, but the fantastic sandstone formations are enough to keep kids and adults fixated for hours. The finest arch in the park is 20-metre-high Delicate Arch, its red pillars framing the jagged skyline of the La Sal Mountains. If that doesn’t satiate your appetite, a 16-km (10-mile) scenic drive offers views of some of the park’s 2,000 other rock spans.

Setting out

The park entrance is 7 km (4 miles) north of the town of Moab on Route 191. Begin your hike at the Wolfe Ranch parking area and climb gradually over exposed sandstone to the arch. This 4.8-km roundtrip trail is rated moderate. More information is available at (435) 719-2299 or nps.gov/arch/. 

Harbour Rocks Trail

Kejimkujik National Park Seaside Adjunct, Nova Scotia

Seal-spotting, bird-watching, and ocean swimming are the highlights in this small park on the Atlantic Ocean. Gleaming crescents of white sand and sparkling aquamarine waters make Keji feel more Caribbean than Canadian. The Harbour Rocks Trail leads through berry patches and wildflowers to the coast where the whole family can frolic in the surf and view hundreds of sun-bathing seals.

Setting out

Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct is located off Highway 103, 170 km southwest of Halifax. From the parking area, the Harbour Rocks Trail is an easy 5.2-km roundtrip on mostly level, gravelled surface. Learn more at (902) 682-2772 or pc.gc.ca/voyage-travel/pv-vp/itm2-/page15_e.asp. 

Pinguisibi Trail

Lake Superior Provincial Park, Ontario

Magnificent waterfalls and primordial groves of towering cedar and white pine are the highlights of the Pinguisibi Trail as it follows the Sand River on a lively descent over smooth Canadian bedrock. The many small pools along the way provide endless opportunities for budding young anglers to land a lunker. If energy levels are still high after the hike, cross under the highway bridge to dip your toes in the cold, clear waters of Lake Superior. 

Setting out

The trailhead is on the east side of Highway 17, 150 km north of Sault Ste. Marie at the Sand River day-use area. This easy to moderate hike is a 6-km return hike and travels over mostly level terrain with some short, steep sections. For more information call (705) 882-2026 or visit lakesuperiorpark.ca. 

Parker Ridge

Banff National Park, Alberta

If the Rocky Mountains needed an introduction, this trail would be it. Ascending above the treeline to the tundra environment of Parker Ridge, the thin air and panoramic vista will take your breath away. Kids can test their agility against that of resident mountain goats, while mom and dad enjoy the alpine wildflowers and eagle’s-eye view of the Saskatchewan Glacier. After your hike, visit the nearby Columbia Icefield, the hemisphere’s second-largest mass of ice and snow south of the Arctic.

Setting out

The trail starts on the west side of Highway 93, 8.8 km south of the Icefield Centre. One of the quickest ways to climb above the treeline in the park, Parker Ridge trail follows switchbacks 275 metres up a moderate grade and is a three-hour, 5.2-km return hike. Phone (403) 762-1550 or visit pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/index_e.asp. 

This article was originally published in the Fall 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Fall 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Weighing the Risks

Photo: Scott and Dougie MacGregor
Weighing the Risks

As parents we walk the tightrope, balancing potential risks and benefits all the time. If I let my daughter stick a screwdriver in the electrical socket, the benefit of improving fine motor control would be zapped by the risk of being electrocuted. Whereas falling off a bicycle on a soft lawn is worth the risk of a stained knee for the benefits of learning to balance and enjoying childhood freedom. As parents we make these kinds of decisions all the time. Learning to cut paper versus losing a finger. Having fun fishing versus getting hooked in the scalp. Exercise and adventure from hiking versus getting lost or poison ivy.

In the world of outdoor recreation and education this is called risk management. My friend Matt Cruchet runs Direct Bearing Risk Management Consulting, a very successful business helping organizations manage risk in their adventure programs. Unfortunately, our society is quick to point fingers at the risks involved with outdoor activities, making educators and some parents scared to take kids outside—especially with the ever-looming threat of legal action. Matt works with schools, camps and organizations like the Girl Guides of Canada to help quantify the benefits, identify the hazards and minimize the risks involved in their outdoor programs. 

As camping parents we know that summertime is perfect for being outside and being active with our kids. This Canada Day long weekend I took my two-year-old son Dougie on our first father-son whitewater canoe trip. The reaction of other canoeists fell into two camps: one group, “I wish I’d started paddling that young”; and the other group, “What in God’s name do you think you’re doing with a baby in the rapids?” One couple actually paddled over and asked me this…it turns out they are teachers.

My friend Matt uses a diagram to help his clients think about risk. One axis is the likelihood of something bad happening, and the other axis is the severity of the consequences. Mosquito bites, for example, are very likely but result in only minor bumps or itching; the chance of getting struck by lightning is quite low but the consequences are severe. The worst kinds of risk are the ones that are very likely to happen and have severe consequences. And in the first quadrant is where Dougie and I paddle the Madawaska River—the chances of us flipping are quite low, as are the consequences with warm, low water, helmets and PFDs. 

In March, a Commons health committee report concluded that 26 per cent of Canadians between the ages of two and 17 are overweight or obese. Overfeeding and lack of exercise increase the risks of preventable life-threatening diseases such as diabetes and heart disease. Watching Dougie playing in the sand, scrambling over rocks, swimming in the shallow eddies and climbing into his sleeping bag at 7:30, I’m sure I’ve found the cure. For my family, the benefits of being outside and canoeing, hiking (see this issue’s hiking feature) and camping far outweigh the risks—so long, of course, that those risks are well managed.

By noon on our second day Dougie and I had caught up to the teachers. They were scouting Raquette Rapids, a 100-metre-long class II that flows over some shallow ledges and between two rock islands. I’ve run this rapid a hundred times. Dougie and I drifted into the current chatting about sitting still and pointing out rocks to avoid. I could feel glares of disapproval burning through the foam of my lifejacket as we floated past the teachers and down the last little chute into the lakewater pool. A perfect run.

A few minutes later, whistle blasts chirped to get our attention. Guess who was in the water? Their canoe was upside down and their gear was strewn around the rapid like a yard sale hit by a tornado. I’d normally have jumped up from our lunch spot on the rocks and helped them, but I couldn’t leave poor little Dougie on these dangerous rocks by himself. What kind of irresponsible parent would that make me? So I sat there spreading cream cheese on my “baby’s” bagel, wondering if they now think they should have started paddling when they were two. 

This article was originally published in the Fall 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Fall 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Betcha Didn’t Know About Beavers

Photo: iStock.com
Betcha Didn't Know About Beavers
  • Beavers are the second largest rodent. 
  • The beaver was the main currency of the fur trade. Pelts were trapped in the hinterland by natives, exchanged for goods at trading posts and shipped to Europe to be treated with mercury to make felt for hats. 
  • Beaver tails are sweet hunks of deep-fried dough that are popular on Ottawa’s Rideau Canal. They set back sugar-craving ice skaters $3.50.
  • Newborn beavers are able to swim within hours of being born.
  • Beavers were practically wiped out in Europe by demand for castor oil, a bitter excretion that was used to treat pains and is still used to scent perfumes.
  • The buckteeth of a beaver never stop growing.
  • Jerry Mathers gnashed some impressive buckteeth himself as star of Leave it to Beaver, a sit-com that debuted in 1957.
  • Beavers dam waterways with a mass of mud, rocks and sticks to create a pond that provides access to vegetation and protection from predators. The largest known beaver dam stretched nearly 1,500 metres across a river in Saskatchewan.
  • Female beavers tend to grow larger than males. 
  • The mating practices of beaver—of interest to a large number of humans—involve mid-winter romantic dalliances under the ice.
  • Beavers can hold their breath for 15 minutes.
  • The legendary DeHavilland Beaver bush plane has taken more canoeists to more remote put-ins than any other airplane. 

This article was originally published in the Fall 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Fall 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Birds of Play

Photo: Chris Dowdell
Birds of Play

Three Ottawa-area canoeists have one more reason to fish with live bait after a May canoe trip on which they could have used a few extra worms.

Chris Dowdell, Ian Stimson and Roly Saul started their weekend jaunt on the Madawaska River by loading a borrowed canoe onto their car. The canoe was stored upside down at shoulder height so the men simply shifted it onto their roof racks and tied it on.

After a bumpy drive, the paddlers arrived at their put-in. As they flipped the borrowed boat off the car, a bird’s nest dropped out from under the seat, and out tumbled two tiny robin chicks. “I’ve always said we should be bringing chicks on our trips, but this isn’t what I meant,” said Dowdell.

The trio decided they couldn’t bear to leave the displaced robins at the mercy of the local wildlife. So, they took them along for the paddle. “We felt we could at least try feeding them and see what happened,” said Dowdell.

At their campsite, they kept their guests comfortable with a gourmet menu of steak bits and tablespoons of water—filtered, no less. Each evening, they placed the nest in a tree, sheltered by a makeshift tent of paper towel and twigs. To ward off carnivorous climbers, they booby-trapped the tree’s base with utensils. 

The robins warmed easily to their new surroundings. They lazed in their nest, gazing out at the water and squawking loudly when one of their guardians approached with food. “They adjusted well to their new moms, and seemed to enjoy the view,” said Dowdell.

But no good adventure tale is complete without a happy ending. At trip’s end, the men returned the canoe to its owner. Waiting for the chicks, worm in mouth, was the mother robin, who put the lie to the myth that mother birds reject chicks that have been handled by humans. 

Two weeks later, the chicks left their nest again, this time flying instead of floating.

This article was originally published in the Fall 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Fall 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

Editorial: If You Gotta Go, Go Now

Photo: Jan Waldin
Editorial: If You Gotta Go, Go Now

It was our third consecutive lunch of pitas and cheese and we were ready for a distraction. We had pulled up at a narrows about two-thirds of the way down Nunavut’s Coppermine River. The bank on the far side was splattered with head-high willow shrubs and Barb was adamant that there was a caribou grazing among them.

“There,” she said, “just to the left of the little clearing.”

The rest of us munched away, squinting across the river and assuring her we also saw it before realizing what we thought were antlers were just another pair of willow branches. 

This went on for 15 minutes, until the pitas were put away for another day, before Mike declared, “It must be a caribou. I can smell it.” 

Mike has admirable olfactory abilities, but this was too much. I was about to suggest he was smelling himself when I caught a whiff of what I imagined caribou breath must smell like. 

Ally turned around and laughed. Not 20 metres behind us four caribou were mowing down tufts of lichen. We could see every whisker, and hear every gum smack (I had assumed the noise was Mike eating dessert). It’s a good thing we had a large store of pitas, because if we had been relying on keen senses to deliver us food from the land we would have gone hungry. 

I couldn’t help but feel out of my element up there. The conventions that time and space follow down south, even on a remote river in the boreal, have no purchase in the Arctic. With the land frozen so much of the year, cycles such as growth and decay grind to a crawl while seasonal imperatives like spring runoffs and animal migrations take on a determined frenzy. It is hard to know what to expect, even hard to know how to adjust your eyes to a landscape that is so barren and hard to read it turns what you thought would be a half-hour hike into a half-day trek.

That was 10 years ago, and I haven’t been back to the Arctic, a fact that hit me in the gut last week when a couple I know asked me out for a beer and counsel about their plan to paddle the Coppermine.  

They were nervous, and had reason to be. They had paddled a handful of rivers, but their whitewater history wasn’t one that begged for a biography. The weather in late August could well be punishing. With only one canoe in their party they would have no one to collect pieces for them after a dump. 

As we batted around these caveats I couldn’t help but wonder if I was erring on the side of caution so I would feel better about my inability to muster a return trip above the 66th parallel.

As we often recount in these pages—call it our editorial mission—canoe trips on the whole are getting shorter and shorter. Fewer people are making the sort of time commitment needed to do extraordinary canoe trips. Everyone has reasons. I know I have mine. I just don’t know if they are good enough.

My friends emailed me last week to tell me they had weighed the risks and had decided to paddle the Coppermine. They may become stormbound for a few days. They may dump and lose equipment—or worse. One fate that won’t befall them, however, is they’ll never have to sit on a patio sipping a beer and mumbling sorry excuses for how they didn’t go north in 2007 because they were too busy. 

This article was originally published in the Fall 2007 issue of CanoerootsThis article first appeared in the Fall 2007 issue of Canoeroots Magazine.

 

In Parting: How Kayaking Makes You Smarter

Photo: Tarmo Poldmaa
In Parting: How Kayaking Makes You Smarter

There’s a highly successful and well-paid management consultant who, whenever he gets in a stressful pickle at work, solves his problems by sitting down to do needlepoint.

This is according to a book I am reading to better myself. It’s called The Breakout Principle: How to Activate the Natural Trigger That Maximizes Creativity, Athletic Performance, Productivity and Personal Well-Being. Wouldn’t you like to know the secret to all that?

According to the authors, Herbert Benson and William Proctor, when you get stuck with a problem at work or in life and grapple with it for a while until you aren’t getting anywhere, you can break out of that rut by doing something physically or mentally repetitive. They suggest meditation, walking, scrubbing the toilet—it can be just about anything. The needlepointing business guru supposedly solved a big problem by engrossing himself in a particularly intricate form of embroidery called petit point. Focusing on a repetitive activity pushes the brain’s reset button, allowing you to find new thought patterns for old problems. Your mind evolves and you get smarter through successive cycles of struggle and breakout. The harder the struggle, the greater the enlightenment is likely to be. It’s a “work hard, play hard” philosophy, coming to you from a pair of authors that includes a professor of medicine at Harvard—so it must be true.

Before you rush out to the craft store for needlepoint sup- plies, take it from me that kayaking has all the same breakout benefits while being a lot more fun. I find there’s no better way to get over writer’s block than to go out for a long paddle. The best escape comes in a following sea that’s big enough to make me pay attention but not so big it really scares me—the golden mean between too-easy and too-hard that produces the mental state psychologists call “flow.”

After a few good hours paddling downwind in a moderate swell, the first two things I need to do when I get to shore are 1) pee, and 2) pull out my notebook to write down all the brilliant ideas I just had on the water. Often the two are emergencies of equal urgency. If I start carrying a pee bottle in my cockpit, I will also have to rig a dictaphone to my Pfd. sitting at a computer, though our careers often demand it, is not a great way to be inspired.

I have come to think of my kayak cockpit as “the Oval Office” because it’s where I do my best work. Indoor work can nourish the mind, but it takes water to digest.

This article on increasing your productivity through kayaking was published in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Kootenay Lake Trip Guide: A Backyard Paddling Paradise

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Kootenay Karma: 4 Day Trip Guide to Kootenay Lake, BC

In the Kootenay region of Southeastern British Columbia, the lithic ramparts of the Rocky, Purcell and Selkirk mountains soak their feet in deep, cold lakes held fast by steeply treed slopes. Upper and Lower Arrow Lakes, Slocan Lake, Windermere Lake and dozens of smaller lakes and reservoirs fill nearly every valley. The greatest lake of all, the mother lake, is the Dark Queen herself—Kootenay Lake—the largest natural lake in southern B.C. Nearly 150 km long, this massive inland sea leaves a bow-and-arrow-shaped footprint on the region even larger than her massive blue figure on maps.

The Dark Queen of the Kootenays has it all: superlative fishing (including the largest rainbow trout in the world), soul-soothing mountain views, water pure enough to lift straight to your lips, and a rainbow of colorful communities where you can counterpose a day of paddling with an evening of live jazz or a night in a B&B.


The Dark Queen’s many moods

Nestled comfortably in the cradle of the Selkirk and Purcell mountains, Kootenay Lake has a wild side that belies her seemingly protected nature. Countless side drainages funnel glacier-born crosswinds onto the north-south oriented lake, resulting in exciting and dangerously turbulent waters. Stories abound of boaters drowning or disappearing into her icy depths. Paddlers and fishermen alike know to look to the horizon often and carefully, watching for the telltale black line that signals a change in the Dark Queen’s mood—for the worse.

The lake’s many moods have helped shape the culture of the villages anchored like floats on a fishing net around her perimeter. Each has more than its share of artisans, musicians and outdoor enthusiasts drawn to, and inspired by, the disposition of the Dark Queen.

On the outflow of the lake’s West Arm, the city of Nelson is known globally for its proximity to wilderness and for the quality and availability of some of the best “bud” B.C. has to offer. Not many 7,000-person towns have their own police force, or the staggering array of outlets for expendable income. High-end coffee shops, quality restaurants and trendy sporting goods stores line Baker Street in downtown Nelson, and most locals openly admit that it is income from the underground marijuana economy that is one of the critical drivers of this thriving social scene. Whatever the reason, paddlers can always find a good café, restaurant or live music in Nelson at the end of a great day on the water.


Loggers, orchards and 200 km of freshwater paddling

The small town of Creston lies not only at the far end of the South Arm, on the Kootenay River just before it enters the lake, but also at the polar opposite end of the socioeconomic spectrum from Nelson’s trendy, affluent scene. Steeped in a quaint 1950s air, the Creston Valley supports a unique mix of hard core loggers and fundamentalist right-wing Mormons from the nearby community of Bountiful. A surfeit of senior citizens meander the streets at a septuagenaric pace, and the town has the anachronistic air of a community clinging stubbornly to the last echoes of an unsustainable forest-based economy. Ironically, in the agricultural paradise of the Creston Valley—filled wall-to-wall with apple and cherry orchards, asparagus fields and blueberry patches—the town’s one great restaurant, the Other Side Café, is rarely open (update from 2020: the cafe is now permanently closed).

Between Nelson and Creston lies over 200 km of wild freshwater paddling through remote wilderness. White-sand beaches at Laib and Midge Creeks contrast with the steep granite bluffs that protect much of this backyard paddling paradise. An 8-km, bushy hike up Midge Creek north of Creston will lead you to some of the finest remaining Kootenay old growth forest, while the gruelling Lasca Creek and Mill Creek trails offer access to the alpine of West Arm Provincial Park to only the most committed hikers. Paddlers will share this wilderness landscape with some of the world’s last remaining endangered mountain caribou (as few as 60 of these shy, old growth–dependent ungulates remain in the heavily deforested south Kootenays), as well as the odd grizzly, wolf, secretive cougar—or even a wildly bearded and dread locked West Kootenay local.

At the far end of the northern reach, Kootenay Lake fills the front hards of Kaslo, Argenta and a handful of remote, independent communities. Up here the Dark Queen wears a different robe. Her mountain companions are steeper, higher and more rugged. Summits in neighbouring Goat Range Provincial Park and the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy reach skywards over 3,000 m above sea level—over 2,500 m above the lake. Mossy cliffs crowned with ponderosa pine and Douglas fir lean hundreds of feet over black water, while glacier-fed streams carve their way through steep rainforest valleys—a wild landscape that has attracted inhabitants with a spirit to match.


Home of the draft dodgers

In the late 1960s a wave of talented, intelligent Americans ran for the Canadian border with the Vietnam draft snarling and nipping at their heels. Many of these folks settled in the Kootenays, providing the basis for the communal, semi-pastoral and fiercely independent nature of these remote towns. Up here at the north end of Kootenay Lake, if you are wearing clothes on a lonely pebble beach, you are the weird one.

These expats from the Lower 48, where the grizzly has been wiped out of 98 percent of its historic range, found solace and inspiration in their wilderness surroundings. Many passionately led the fight for the myriad of protected areas in the surrounding mountains—West Arm, Kokanee Glacier, Goat Range, Kianuko, Stagleap, Bugaboo, Purcell Wilderness and a host of smaller provincial parks—that help to make Kootenay Lake one of the last, best freshwater wilderness paddling destinations on the planet. All that with access to a cappuccino and a gourmet restaurant meal, if that’s what suits your fancy.


Trip itinerary for Kootenay Lake

Hand-drawn illustration of Kootenay Lake area
X marks the spot. | Illustration by: Lorenzo del Bianco

If you have at least four days to explore Kootenay Lake, this route from Creston to Crawford Bay offers a little bit of everything the region is famous for. Start with a mandatory tour of the Columbia Brewery (home of the world-famous Kokanee glacier beer) in Creston, put in at the southern tip of Kootenay Lake, stop for a day to enjoy hiking among old growth forests and mountain ridges, then explore the communities of the east shore before paddling or shuttling back to your car.

Day 1

To reach the put-in at the Duck Lake dike, head west from Creston on Highway #3 across the Kootenay Valley. Head North on Lower Wyndell Road (you will need to turn left and go under an overpass). At kilometer 6.9, head left on Duck Lake Road for another 6.8 km. A lovely opening allows access to the East Channel of the Kootenay. From here paddle south (upstream) for 200 m to enter the current of the main river channel.

This first day of leisurely paddling carries you under the old railway lift bridge and out onto the Dark Queen herself. The nicest paddling, and camping, is along the west shore. Several small beaches provide camping, but the nicest spot by far is the sandy beaches of Next Creek—a B.C. Forest Service Recreation site with pit toilets and picnic tables.

Boats & Guides
Kaslo Kayaking (Kaslo)

kaslokayaking.com

Nelson Paddleboard & Kayak Rentals (Nelson)

nelsonpaddleboardandkayak.com

Inner Journeys
Yasodhara Ashram (Crawford Bay)

yasodhara.org

Environmental Info
Wildsight

wildsight.ca

Visitor’s Info
Kootenay Lake Chamber of Commerce

kootenaylake.bc.ca

Parks & Camping
BC Parks

bcparks.ca

Day 2

On the point north of Next Creek, look for pictograms left by the Ktunaxa First Nations over millennia. The 230-hectare Midge Creek Provincial Park has more than a kilometer of white-sand beach. Maintained tent sites here are available for $5 per person per night.

To go for a hike on Day 3, base yourself here for two nights. Alternately, head several kilometers north to Drewry Point Provincial Park for more spectacular, and free, camping. Both these parks are boat-access only, with pit toilets and wilderness campsites that are available on a first-come basis.

Day 3

For a day of hiking from Midge Creek, follow an old, overgrown mineral exploration road up the north bank of the creek through spectacular old growth ponderosa pine. For views down the lake, follow an obvious ridge upwards to the north, 1.6 km upstream. This ridge is crisscrossed by numerous game trails and offers a mix of dreadfully thick vegetation and lovely open rambling. Rugged, exceptionally committed hikers might make it 11 km upstream along the old road to find some of the finest original cedar and spruce old-growth forest left on Kootenay Lake. Cedars in this stand were saplings when Leif Ericson landed in North America in AD 1,000.

Note: past the end of the old road this route follows many old game trails and involves some route-finding and creek-crossing skills—not recommended for a leisurely sashay on a lazy afternoon.

Day 4

From Midge Creek or Drewry Point, cross the lake to explore the east shore communities of Twin Bays, Boswell, proudly metric-free Gray Creek, and Crawford Bay. Crawford Bay has a world-renowned collection of artisans and craftsmen—from glass blowers and ironsmiths to potters, weavers and broom-makers. Nearby, Yasodhara Ashram offers introspection in a stunning setting.

There are many camping options along the shore between Boswell and Gray Creek, and also a nice spot called Steep Beach on the west-facing shore of Pilot Point. At the end of your explorations, shuttle back to your vehicle—or hitchhike, an illegal yet thriving form of public transport in the Kootenays.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak‘s Summer 2007 issue. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here, or browse the archives here.


Dave Quinn is a freelance writer, photographer and guide based in Kimberley, B.C. 

The Dark Queen’s throne room. | Photo: Dave Quinn

Going Commando: Kayaking’s Man in Black

Photo: Nigel Foster
Going Commando: Kayaking's Man in Black

We began our trip as Debside invariably does: at the bus stop.

I followed as he dragged the black bag containing his folding kayak and paddling gear on its wheeled frame past the children’s playground to a fence overlooking Puget Sound. There we paused while he pulled out a coloured map.

“Here’s this put-in.” His finger identified our location. “At the bottom of this hill, there should be a footbridge.” Moving his finger to indicate another spot on the map where the road curved close to the water. “I thought this place might be good too but when I checked it out, there’s no way to get across the rail tracks. You have to think of that sort of thing when you choose put-ins. Bus routes….” He held up his timetable, and a map. “You don’t want to cross private land either—it would give kayakers a bad name—but there are often little public access places to the beach if you look for them.”

We followed the fence to a corner where wooded land dropped steeply to a creek, and then as we backtracked we ran into a dog walker who pointed us in a different direction, back to the road to cross the creek. There in the bushes we found the top of several steep flights of steps.

The thud of descending wheels gave way to their steady rumble as we crossed the caged walkway high above the rail tracks and rolling stock. As we spiraled down more steep steps toward the beach I reflected how awkward a carry this would be with a rigid kayak, even with two people, yet how comfortably Dubside dealt with it.

WHAT IS DUBSIDE?

definition of commando kayakingDubside’s lifestyle package began in Philadelphia. Into the reggae scene, which incidentally inspired his famed dreadlocks, he worked as a sound engineer for bands. Living inexpensively in a single room in a house with a shared bathroom, no outside yard space, no car, no vices, he found he needed to work no more than two or three days a week to cover his expenses. Valuing time over money, for most of each week he was free. In 1998 he discovered kayaking.

Canoeing as a kid introduced him to access to wildlife spots and special moments even in the middle of the city. It offered a different, magical perspective. But to take up kayaking now Dubside faced a radical change to his lifestyle. If he were to buy a kayak, a car to carry it with all its running expenses, and find a place to store his kayak, that could require a full-time job which would leave him little time to paddle. Then he ran into Ralph Diaz at the New York Kayak Company, a lifetime advocate of folding kayaks. Dubside was inspired to mail-order one, sight unseen.

Reaching the beach, Dubside looked around for a place to assemble his kayak.
“I try to find grass so I don’t get sand and stones inside the skin.” From his black package he unfolded a 16-foot-long black rubberized kayak skin and a pile of aluminum tubes and plastic frames. “When I got my first kayak it took me more than an hour to assemble it. Now it takes fifteen minutes.” My own first attempt to assemble a Feathercraft, out in the Queen Charlotte Islands, had been a puzzling experience. Setting out then on a multi-day camping trip rather than Dubside’s more usual day or night trip, I never did trim my time to less than an hour.

As Dubside inserted sections of frame and his kayak began to take shape, he continued, “Then there’s the safety aspect. I can paddle during the week when most people are at work, so I mostly went solo. My first kayak was so wide and stable most people said it wouldn’t capsize, but then I got a nar- rower one and I wanted to learn how to roll, for safety, especially as I often paddled in winter. Sometimes there was ice on the water. At the pool sessions the other paddlers were Greenland-style enthusiasts, so they taught me to use their paddles, and I got into the whole Greenland stuff, with its emphasis on a wide range of different rolls. The ropes tricks? That came as part of the same pack- age. Helps to keep you flexible and fit too!”

Too modest to volunteer his success in competition, Dubside neglected to add that he is regarded as one of the world’s most highly skilled performers of both Greenland rolls and of Greenland rope gymnastics. All this in so very few years, he says, because his lifestyle allows him so much time on the water.

DUBSIDE ON ACCESSORIZING

Dubside now peeled off the black boiler suit he’d worn on the bus to reveal a black drysuit underneath. He struggled into his neoprene tuilik. Sealed around his face so tightly, this combination of spray deck and anorak almost completely excludes water when he rolls.

He clipped his pump to his deck and a VHF radio to each shoulder. He laughed
as he explained how he used to give talks about radios. He bought several for the purpose, so now he often carries two, one for monitoring all channels, and the other on a fixed channel to listen for specific conversations. “If I hear ferry or tugboat captains warn of a kayaker in the channel I can call back and say it’s me. That makes everyone more comfortable.” He assembles his paddle and he’s about ready to go.

Paddling beside me across gentle waves, Dubside played at what he likes best, rolling. He surfaced each time with a big smile on his face admitting that it is difficult for him to stay upright. That’s not because he doesn’t have the skill to do so. “Even when I decide to stay dry for a day, I always end up rolling a few times because I enjoy it so much!”

STEALTH IS ESSENTIAL

As we cross the channel to Whidbey Island he points this way and that, identifying places where he knows he could put in or get out. Relatively new to the Northwest, he’s becoming familiar with it. In time he might know it as thoroughly as Philadelphia, where he would decide on the best access and egress points depending on the weather, or if it was daylight or not. There were some intimidating places he felt he could land and take apart his kayak hidden by the vegetation of the bank without attracting unwelcome attention. He could not do the same when launching because people would follow him into the bushes. He’d felt vulnerable surrounded by hostile kids with his kayak only part assembled.

“Stealth paddling! That’s what I often did in Philly!” I could understand why the coast guard and police so often challenged this figure clad completely in black as he crept around the channels at dusk and lurked in the bushes.

Perhaps here in the friendly Northwest, he can be more relaxed. “All the Whidbey Island transit buses offer rides for free, and the ferry doesn’t charge passengers on the way back off the island. So, depending on the weather, I could change my plans and go over there, or over there, and catch a bus and ferry back to the mainland to get my bus home. That flexibility offers me more safety, more options if conditions are not how I expected. It doesn’t matter where I come ashore; I just pack up my kayak, look up the bus routes and timetables and figure out a way home.”

Taking advantage of that flexibility and independence is the style of operation Dubside refers to as “commando kayaking.”

Asked what he would change in his lifestyle, if he could, Dubside considers for a while before answering. “Maybe better mass transit. Perhaps if I moved closer to Seattle where the buses would run later, I’d have more options.” We drift while a ferry crosses our path on its way to dock. “We could catch that one if we pulled out the stops,” he says, eyeing up the distance left to paddle and calculating the time it would take to fold his kayak and wheel it aboard. But neither of us feels the need to rush.

MAN WITH A MESSAGE

I ask if he preaches his lifestyle. “Not exactly. But you know, although a Feathercraft is an expensive bit of kit, you don’t have to have a lot of disposable income to enjoy paddling. If you don’t have a car, don’t have anywhere to store a kayak, don’t have much income, you can still do it. And that goes for adventure too. The media love to glorify the exotic places people go to paddle, but really, adventure can be anywhere and everywhere. You don’t have to go far to find it. Water freezes, there are eagles and wildlife dramas, you see tugboats and find out where they go, you get familiar with where the low-tide rocks are so you know where not to roll. There’s magic in the mist. Knowing an area intimately through different times of day, different tides and different sea- sons, with all the possible landing places and ways to get home from wherever you go—that’s something very special a tourist visiting an exotic location for a short time will never know.”

As he spoke, I was reminded of my early kayaking days. As a 16-year-old I walked my canvas kayak on a homemade trolley down two miles of winding hill
to the coast near Brighton each time I wanted to paddle. Less versatile than a kayak I could carry on the bus, the rigid kayak on wheels yet offered me independence, the chance to escape to the English Channel, the door to the adventure I am still having.

I have to ask one more question. What about a life partner? I knew his answer before he replied. Not married yet, still looking for that perfect kayak wife. I don’t know who she will be, but I can imagine how she will be.

As Dubside wheeled his anonymous black bag from the ferry, I reflected on what I saw, and on what I knew. I saw
an inconspicuous small figure in black dragging a bag, walking with the crowd up the landing ramp. I knew that particular one in the crowd as a committed kayaker, who tailored his life to fit his dream, not tailored his dream to fit his life. He is now producing instructional DVDs and booklets. He is invited to demonstrate and teach rolling at sea kayaking events. He is finding the way to do what he enjoys in a way that is in harmony with his ideals. I can relate to that.

It’s true, you don’t need much money. You just need to take the time.

Nigel Foster is an international figure in sea kayaking. 

This article on commando kayaking was published in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Rock the Boat: Caught Napping

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Rock the Boat: Caught Napping

It’s a lazy morning at home, and I’m planning a day trip. My wife is meeting one of her friends for shopping and coffee. Perfect! I’m cleared for paddling, as long as I’m back in time for dinner.

“Honey,” I call, “I’m just heading out for a paddle. I’m not sure when I’ll be back. It might be a long day.”

I start tossing gear into my duffel, throwing in my tent, sleeping bag, mattress, pillow, a novel, cookies, sandwiches and a thermos of hot chocolate.

Her brow knits as I continue to stuff in my PFD, spray skirt, fleece and jacket.

“Aren’t you taking an awful lot for a day trip?”

“Well, you can’t be too sure,” I say. “If I did get into nasty conditions, having camping gear would give me a huge safety advantage. I could wait things out until it was safe to proceed, even over- night. It would be foolhardy to take less. Having enough food is key too.” I hold her gaze steadily as I slip a large box of Turkish delight into the duffel.

She gives me a peck on the cheek. “I’m glad that you’re so safety conscious, sweetie.”

And just like that, I’m on my way.

What no one knows is that I’m not really going paddling, per se. I’m actually off to practice a revolutionary new take on kayak touring. It’s my own innovation that I call nautical napping.

AN INTRODUCTION TO NAUTICAL NAPPING

Here’s how nautical napping works: you head out for a day paddle. Since you’ll spend many hours out of the house, folks at home will naturally assume that you’re off being gnarly and adventurous, cranking out mile after mile. What nobody suspects is that you really only paddle for about an hour, heading to a favourite secluded spot.

Once at your site, you set up your tent, get out your sleeping bag, mattress and book, and burrow into your nest. Lie there soaking up the sounds of the shoreline. Eat a few bonbons and have a sip of hot chocolate. Sprawl out, hogging every inch of the bed, wiggle your toes and luxuriate.

Now, the key component of the nautical napping relaxation system: open your book and start reading until your eyelids become too heavy to hold open. And then—drop off to sleep. Fantastic!

It’s that simple—anyone can travel across water to breathtakingly beautiful locations, and fall asleep there. And this is all possible for just pennies per outing.

BEST DONE SOLO

I know what you’re thinking. You’re saying to yourself, “hey, I live in a city. Where can I go nautical napping?” The potential sites are many. You don’t have to limit yourself to areas that permit overnight camping, since you’ll only be there for a few hours. Any quiet spot by the water is perfect. Waterfront public parks in the city are prime locations. And nautical napping isn’t fair-weather dependent either; rainy days are ideal.

You may also be asking yourself, “Am I qualified to nap nautically?”

Friend, if you have a kayak and enjoy sleeping as much as I do, then the answer is yes! It’s child’s play—you’ll sleep like a baby.

Maybe you are worried about what people will think. But nobody will ever know—if you don’t tell them. You may even gain a psychological edge by leveraging their guilt.

Your spouse may feel sheepish if he or she has lazed around all day like some reprehensible sloth while you spent an active day outside. Get into the habit of being casually reticent and vague about the specifics of your journeys. People will start to assume you are just modest about your exploits and give up pressing you for details.

One thing to bear in mind is that nautical napping is best done solo for ultimate relaxation. You don’t want even a hint of anybody else’s agenda or schedule.

Once you get the hang of it, you can customize your nap- ping experience by bringing along extra comfort items, such as a teddy bear, your lucky pajama top, or an MP3 player with all the music that you aren’t allowed to play at home (Iron Butterfly, The Partridge Family, Wagner’s Ring Cycle).

When you awake from your nautical nap, pack up and head home refreshed. You can be confident that any telltale signs of drool will be mistaken for sea salt and that the pillow marks on your face will fade long before you walk through the door.

Alex Matthews is a passionate kayaker and has fallen asleep all over the world. If you happen to meet Alex in the field, please don’t wake him up. 

This article on napping on day trips was published in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine.This article first appeared in the Summer 2007 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.