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Rock the Boat: About that Dream Job

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Rock the Boat: About that Dream Job

Charlie the seasoned kayak guide has a grave problem. His hobby has taken over his life. Flashbacks of weeks spent living by tide and winds fill his overactive imagination and unproductive off-season days. Ragged back issues of Adventure Kayak litter his chaotic apartment. Charlie doesn’t even need an ocean—just the thought of a float on the local moose-riddled lake brings a smile to his face. Sea kayaking has become a drug, and Charlie has a serious addiction.

Charlie gave up the mainstream life over a decade ago, trading in his computer and desk for a paddle and kayak and the mysterious vagabond existence of a professional guide.

Paddling may be his passion, but after ten years of cranky guests with unrealistic expectations, stressed out bosses and constant relationship friction after long months away from home, the romance of guiding has started to wear thin. Especially for what boils down to a single-digit hourly wage.

Charlie is faced with a major decision: should he abandon his frustrating yet re- warding guiding lifestyle for more respect- able but soul-sucking gainful employment, or should he up the ante and make the bold move from lowly guide to the wealth, contentment, and absolute power of an eco-tourism company owner?

One fine day Charlie makes up his mind. “I will live my passion!” he exclaims. “I will start my own sea kayaking company! I will call it ‘Sand in Your Shorts Ecopeditions’ and it will be my ticket to happiness!” Charlie spends the rest of his morning lying on the couch dreaming about his new career, until he nods off with images of endless beaches, breaching whales and generous, helpful guests filling the fjords of his brain.

As he dozes, his subconscious takes him to his chosen future bliss. As he expects, running his own business is not easy at first.

He gamely endures the tedious and office- bound tasks of registering, incorporating, and marketing his new company. He is a sea kayaker, not a graphic designer, but with limited funds he spends the entire winter learning how to design and print brochures and build and maintain his company website.

Next he tries to track down insurance for his fledgling operation and discovers—after many more hours at his desk—that no one really wants to insure “edge of capitalist society” sea kayaker types in a post 9/11 world. He ponies up the $10,000 his insurance agent demands for liability coverage, and then spends another $20,000 on a fleet of new boats.

Now he has to hire and train a crew of guides who will look after all this new ex- pensive gear and all his hard-won guests. It is difficult to find professional, qualified, personable, wildlife biologist / educator / adventure racer / story teller / risk manager /first aider / personal therapist / musicians who can cook up a storm, MacGyver broken kayaks and broken bones with equal ease, and are willing to work 18-hour days of intense responsibility and decision-making for $150 or less.

Charlie tosses and turns and cries out in his sleep. But the nightmare continues. His dreams carry him through the seasons and into a spring spent entirely on the trade- show circuit, hustling to fill enough cockpits with guests to pay for the insurance, gear and guide wages.

Finally, his first field season arrives, but he has to mind the office, filling out permit applications, answering the phone and digesting the bad news: increasing travel costs and American fear politics have resulted in half-full or even cancelled trips. Not to mention the ever-increasing competition. Several of Charlie’s guide buddies plus some American George Bush refugees have all started sea kayaking businesses on his favourite stretch of coast. Even the veteran companies who were the ecotourism visionaries of the 1970s and ‘80s are having trouble filling trips.


Charlie’s natural rhythm inexorably degenerates from the slow, calming tidal flow that is the root of his fascination with the sea kayak into the fast-paced tempo of the cable modem and electricity. The endless sandy beaches and towering coastal forests of his dream lifestyle have morphed into unruly pa- per piles and oppressive fluorescent-lit walls. His tan lines are replaced with the worry lines that mar his bleary-eyed face.

His nightmare finally takes Charlie to his first year-end. Time for the payoff from all that time spent indoors. His accountant crunches the numbers and—what’s this?— Charlie is stuck with the same meager wage he had as a guide, minus the travel and life- style dividends.

“Nooooooooooo……”

Charlie’s own scream wakes him up. He gives his muddled head a shake, towels off the cold sweat, and grabs his gear for an afternoon of playing hide and seek with a moose on the local lake.

“Company owner? Me?” Charlie thinks as his paddle blades takes its first satisfying slice into the water. “What was I thinking?”

Dave Quinn guides in the Queen Charlotte Islands and the Canadian Arctic. He is the co- owner of Treehouse Outdoor Education, B.C., and the Vice President of the Association of Canadian Sea Kayak Guides. 

Screen_Shot_2015-07-23_at_1.03.01_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Skills: Going Full Tilt

Photo: Paul Villecourt
Skills: Going Full Tilt

The ability to comfortably and confidently edge your kayak is an important step to advanced paddling.

It’s also the key to tighter turns and improved boat control in challenging conditions. So on the next warm day, suit up for swimming, head to some warm water, and practice putting your boat on edge.

Edging is accomplished by dropping one knee and raising the other. Remember to keep your hips loose and your weight balanced over your kayak. Shift your weight slightly over to one butt cheek and lift the opposite knee. You should feel your whole rib cage shifting over to the “uphill” side of your kayak. Your stomach and side muscles will be working to keep your body upright, while your legs hold a steady tilt on the boat—particularly your top knee, which will be pulling upward on its thigh hook.

Your ultimate goal is to improve your balance and edge control to the point that you can take effective strokes while edging. A great drill to build this skill is to paddle forward in a straight line while holding your kayak on edge. Work on your right edge for about 10 strokes, then switch to the left edge. Keep practicing this drill, alternating from edge to edge until the transition becomes smooth and controlled.

You’ll quickly learn that edging your kayak will cause it to turn away from the direction that you’re tilting.

When paddling forward, if you edge to the left, your boat will turn to the right. Conversely, edging to the right will cause your kayak to veer left. The more you tilt, the more aggressively your kayak will turn. You can use this to your advantage, engaging your edge to make small course corrections without scrubbing forward speed or interrupting your forward stroke.

Edging is also very useful for keeping a kayak running straight. Wind, waves and current can all cause a boat to veer off course. Tilting a kayak on edge can help counteract the effects of prevailing conditions that are deflecting a boat in one direction, by encouraging the boat to turn in the opposite direction. One turn cancels out the other, keeping your boat moving in a straight line. It may be necessary to edge only for a few moments (as when crossing a line of current) or for an extended period (as when fighting a sustained wind).

With practice, you will find it easy to quickly edge your boat to either side, maintain it held on edge, and smoothly switch from one edge to the other. You’ll also be able to use your new edging skills to maneuver more efficiently and hold a course in challenging conditions.

Alex Matthews is the co-author of the book Touring and Sea Kayaking—The Essential Skills and Safety and the instructional DVD The Ultimate Guide to Sea Kayaking.

Screen_Shot_2015-07-23_at_1.03.01_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Boat Review: Composite Creations’ Splash

Photo: Ian Merringer
Boat Review: Composite Creation's Splash

“No, I want to carry it,” insists 11-year-old Aleisha Greve when her dad offers to portage her boat upstream from the class I rapid they had been paddling to the bottom of a class II on Ontario’s Madawaska River.

Alan Greve grins, not just because he’s tired of carrying the canoes on family river days, but because the boat Aleisha begins to work her way under is one that Greve helped design.

The boat Aleisha—with a little help—eventually gets over her head is the 30-pound Splash, a new Kevlar hull from Composite Creations that is notching a first descent by dropping a solo canoe into the kids’ whitewater market.

The notion that kids could paddle whitewater as well as they play baseball or hockey if they only had a boat that fit them occurred to Greve last year on the ottawa River when he passed a kid in a Jackson Fun 1, a kayak designed for a 60-pound paddler.

A few months later at the Gull River open canoe Slalom, Greve sat down at a campfire with Andrew Phillips, owner of Composite Creations, which manufactures airline, automotive and marine parts in London, Ontario. Three days later, Greve showed up at Phillips’ shop with a canoe-sized chunk of foam and the two started shaping.

Phillips, who had already designed and manufactured a 10-foot Kevlar river runner called the Bulldog, admits his first designs were a little too aggressive. It was up to Greve, the father of a pair of pre-teen paddlers, to bring him back from the edge.

With a hull reminiscent of a scaled-down Dagger Phantom and Esquif Detonator, the Splash errs on the side of forgiveness. Pre-pubescent paddlers up to 110 pounds should be able to initiate surfs gradually thanks to a blunted bow waterline that will be slow to dig into a wave’s trough and send the boat spinning. Down below, the hull is flat enough to allow for slow surfs, but decidedly rounded chines should keep kids from getting edgy as they cross their first few dozen eddylines.

Still, as Phillips points out, if a boat is too wide for the sake of stability, kids won’t be able to properly reach over the gunwales to the water. And if you keep the rocker at a minimum for better tracking, kids won’t be able to spin the boat and go where they want to go. with a respectable three-inch rocker and 25-inch width, the Splash is no tool of adult condescension.

A new Mike Yee children’s saddle and strap outfitting set-up ensures kids’ knees will, in fact, be able to reach the hull, and the built-in bulkhead buoyancy tanks offer fuss-free floatation.

All of which is apparently okay with Aleisha, who sounds suddenly older thanks to the acoustics of the overturned canoe making her voice boom out from below the Splash on her way up the trail. She’s talking about slalom races she’s been in with her dad, in particular about crashing into a few gates she thinks he could have avoided. when the words “dead weight” slip out from below the canoe, a trailing Greve looks even prouder of his creation.

Specs

Price: $1600 + shipping
Material: Kevlar/carbon
Length: 7’10”
Width: 24″
Depth: 13″
Weight: 30 pounds
Outfitting: Mike Yee children’s saddle and straps

rapidv8i3cover.jpgThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great boat reviews, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here.

Boat Review: Riot’s Astro 54

Photo: Desre Pickers
Boat Review: Riot's Astro 54

A quick glance at the Riot Astro might tell amateur kayak design historians that this is Riot’s attempt to return to the simple, and very successful, design elements of the Disco. The look is definitely familiar, but there are enough innovations here to make the Disco seem as current as platform shoes and leather bell bottoms.

The top view of the Astro shows the same wide, squared-off tips of the Disco that Riot had abandoned for several years in favour of a more surfboard-inspired hull profile. Why the retreat? According to designer Simon Martin, the increased surface area of the hull’s bottom profile keeps the boat on top of the water for easier launches and landings. The hull profile also crams more effective carving edge into the same sized package—think wakeboard, not surfboard.

Where the Astro improves on the Disco is in fairly subtle, but important, hull design details. The sides of the Astro are more flared than the Disco, allowing for easier forward to backward weight shifts while on edge. This makes it feel smoother, both when setting up for aerial moves, as well as when cartwheeling.

The most significant refinement is the Astro’s unique double chine. The bottom of the hull has a straightforward kick-rocker profile, extending the planing portion of the hull toward the ends of the boat. This isn’t new—it is the basis of modern aerial designs. The secondary chine, which is raised quite a bit from the planing hull, has a different rocker profile than the chine of the planing section. Viewed from the side, it’s as if a kick-rocker bottom has been added to a boat with a continuous rocker profile. This puts the secondary chine closer to the water in the middle of the boat—for better carving–but farther from the water toward the ends—so it is more forgiving.

Does this all add up to improved performance?

Like the Disco, the Astro launches from a pop. The Astro allows you to tap into aerial moves without generating huge down-wave speed, a real benefit to those of us that can’t always find the sweet spot on a wave, or don’t live close to Skookumchuck.

But what goes up must come down. This is where the Astro shines. The increased width in the ends and the forgiving chines allow for sticking sloppy landings. Every wave boat is a compromise between carving and landing ability. The Astro’s definitely fa- vours the touchdown.

But most of us don’t paddle on huge, fast waves. We can’t hit the New River Dries when it’s up and can’t take enough Ibuprofen to offset daily sessions on Bus Eater. Not to worry, the Astro is not just a big air machine.

Like most kick-rocker boats, it likes to be dead vertical when cartwheeling, but once on end, it is surprisingly forgiving—stable and slow in case you aren’t 18 years old or Jackie Chan. It is retentive enough to forgive less-than-perfect technique and provide enough time to enjoy a ride on a small foam pile.

Is it perfect? If you like hard-carving boats with lots of down-the-shoulder speed, then you will probably find the Astro frustrating. And this boat is only available in one size.

Riot has a winner in the Astro. It shines in the hands of expert big-wave paddlers. The rest of us can tap into moves in small holes and on eddylines that we may not have discovered otherwise. The Astro takes the Disco party to a groovy new cosmic level. 

Specs

Volume…………….. 54 gal
Length …………….. 6’2”
Width ………………. 25”
Weight Range…….. 120–210 lbs 

Thom Lambert is a moderator of the Boater Board at boatwerks.net.

rapidv8i3cover.jpgThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great boat reviews, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here.

Boat Review: The Liberty by Riot

Photo: Tim Shuff
Boat Review: The Liberty by Riot

Riot’s Liberty 16 uniquely offers many performance traits of a high-end, semi-hard-chine British-style kayak in a smaller, less expensive light-touring package.

The Liberty has the slightly boxy cross section reminiscent of larger brit-style boats like the NDK explorer, Wilderness Systems Tempest or Necky Chatham 16—steep, high sides, semi-hard chine, a flat deck and very shallow V-shaped bottom.

The minimal rocker and long waterline of a racing boat give the Liberty decent tracking and optimal speed for its length when paddling forward. it’s playful on edge, however, turning giddily fast when moving or spinning in place with ease. Most paddlers will want to opt for the skeg to keep from skidding into a turn when they stop paddling. One tester commented that the skeg also improved stability, which is moderate.

The Liberty 16 is a fun little boat for medium-sized paddlers. It’s plenty deep and wide enough to comfortably fit everyone in Riot’s recommended weight range of 150 to 220 pounds (68 to 100 kilos), though many will find the cockpit opening too short to exit legs-first.

Riot’s Cross Light is an ABS-acrylic vacuum-thermoformed material that offers the light weight and look of composite with the lower price and durability of poly plastic.

The Liberty 16 is a great entry-level craft for someone who wants a taste of performance or an intermediate who’s working their way into the high-performance club but not prepared to lay down the plastic (pun intended) to pay fibreglass or Kevlar initiation fees.

Screen_Shot_2015-06-25_at_3.29.13_PM.png

SPECS

length: 15 ft 5 in
width: 21.5 in
depth: 11.5 in
weight: 56 lbs
cockpit: 30.5×19.5 in
bow hatch: 16.75×9 in, 65 litres
stern hatch: 16.75×9 in, 90 litres
day hatch: 7.7 in
MRSP: $1999 CA, $1599 US – no skeg, $2149 CA, $1699 US skeg

Screen_Shot_2015-06-25_at_3.19.29_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Adventure Kayak magazine. For more boat reviews, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Sea Kayak Review: Boreal Design Labrador

Person paddling an orange sea kayak
Get comments about your equipment. | Photo by: Victoria Bowman

Your equipment is beautiful,” said a female passerby as I was changing into my drysuit. “Pardon?” It’s not every day that a man hears that. It took me a minute to realize she was talking about my shiny new mango-coloured Labrador demo boat. The Labrador is beautiful indeed, sleek and fast with capacity for long trips.

Long and skinny for paddlers who have the body dimensions to match, the Labrador’s narrow cockpit and rigid moulded thigh braces provide a performance fit superior to what small- to medium-sized paddlers will get from other manufacturers’ universally adjustable fit systems.

The hard-chine provides enough turnability to make course corrections and medium-fast turns with a gentle tilt—easing predictably from moderate initial stability to strong secondary without feeling floppy. The smooth shallow-arch hull adds speed by counteracting the drag of the hard chine—enough to lead the touring kayak class at races alongside other barely legal legends like the Necky Looksha II.

Boreal Design Labrador Specs
Length: 18’4″
Width: 21″
Depth: 13.25″
Weight: 57 lb fibreglass; 51 lb Kevlar; 48 lb carbon
Cockpit: 30.5″ x 16″
Bow hatch: 9.5″, 97 L
Stern hatch: 16.5″ x 11.25″, 120 L
Total volume: 400 L

borealdesign.com

Experienced paddlers can track straight and control weathercocking in moderate winds with tilt and strokes alone, but will appreciate the rudder’s efficiency for racing or long trips.

British traditionalists can make the boat as pommy as they please by mixing and matching skeg, day hatch and bucket seat options.

Glass, Kevlar, Kevlar/carbon and clear-coat choices provide more fun decisions.

Our large rear Kajaksport hatch cover seemed to leak slightly—something to check out on your own demo—but the bow was bomber.

Overall our demo showed flawless construction with pleasing touches like spectra-fibre rudder cables, strong glassed-in bulkheads, a moulded paddle-park fore of the cockpit and Boreal’s signature funky-patterned seam tape.

If you’re not already getting compliments about your beautiful equipment, put the Labrador on your short list and be ready to blush.

Cockpit of orange sea kayak
Mind the size of thy thighs. Early Labradors came with aggressive thigh braces (shown_ wonderful for paddlers with the legs of a chicken and the heart of a lion. New models have a more democratic pared-down version. Two seat options: Boreal’s new padded “comfort seat” (shown) (standard with rudder version) or a traditional bucket-with-backband (standard with skeg versions). | Photo: Tim Shuff

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak‘s Summer 2006 issue. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here, or browse the archives here.


Get comments about your equipment. | Photo by: Victoria Bowman

Road Trip: A to Z

Photo: Robert Faubert
Road Trip: A to Z

There are a lot of places on this continent where roads and rivers intersect. In fact, when you consider how many ways there are to get to a river with a car, it’s a wonder we’ve only come up with 26. We just picked 26 to show off our familiarity with the alphabet, so don’t be afraid to take a few detours along the way. 

Agers Falls, Moose River, Old Forge NY

Line up the auto-boofing lip on this 18-footer, close your eyes and hope someone gets a photo. 

Bus Eater, Ottawa River, Ontario/Quebec

“Ladies and gentlemen, this is the big one. Building, steepening, folding, crashing, frothing… bus eater is the kind of wave that is worth missing your wife’s birthday for. Not that I’m married. How many waves of this calibre have wave-side parking, eddy service and a chinese restaurant five minutes down the road?” – David Nieuwenhuis, national freestyle team member. 

Churchill River, Missinipe SK

Downstream from Devil Lake, the Churchill splits into several channels as it drops about 12 metres, creating the best play area in Saskatchewan at Barker Lake. The multiple channels make up a 20-square-kilometre whitewater puzzle. Notable features include corner Rapids, Farside, Surf City, the Shelf and Mosquito Rapids (no irony intended). 

Dog Lake, Thunder Bay ON

Crooked Rapids on the Kaministiqua River is eight kilometres downriver from Dog Lake, so this clearly qualifies as our D-destination. As a 400-metre-long set, Crooked Rapids falls into the park and run category, with three play spots along the way. a minimum of 30 cms is recommended. The upstream hydro plant has a bottom-release gate, so the tannin-coloured water stays cold until mid-July. 

Exploits River, Grand Falls-Windsor, NL

This three-kilometre, class-III run right in the town of Grand Falls-Windsor starts with a technical pool and drop section before moving into the canyon and ending at Virgin Wave, as hard to get to as its name suggests. And don’t encourage any of the normally friendly locals to billyrag (abuse) you by being a bliving (shivering) angishore (weakling). 

Folly River, Truro NS

“The Folly is full of the different drops found in various parts of the country, all mashed into one river. It has great Quebec-style slides, and mini west coast vertical drops. Add that variety to its consistent gradient, easy access and lack of severe consequences and you have one of the best creek runs in the east.” – Kelsey Thompson, Truronian and the youngest member of Canada’s freestyle team last year. Put in at Folly Lake, 30 minutes west of Truro on Highway 104. 

Gatineau River, Maniwaki QC

A huge hole (Lucifer’s Anus), a great wave (Haute Tension) and half a dozen other sets on a big, clean Quebec river. What more can you ask for? Plan your trip for the last weekend of August for the Upper Gatineau Whitewater Festival and witness the largest gaggle of open boaters with the distinct Québecoise penchant for going big. the run is an eight-kilometre stretch from below Maniwaki to above Bouchette, 130 kilometres north of Ottawa. 

Hell Hole, Ocoee River TN

One of the proving grounds during the early 1990s emergence of freestyle and the site of the first world championships in 1993. The park and play wave under the bridge has changed a little over the years thanks to floods and people experimenting with heaving rocks into the river. It’s still a fairly retentive hole, though not as satanically punishing as the name might suggest.

Illecillewaet River, Revelstoke BC

The benchmark run around Revelstoke. If you can do it, stick around and see what else Revelstoke has to offer. This big-water creeking run is like Golden’s Kicking Horse on crack. The Illecillewaet is the river A.B. Rogers followed into the Selkirks in 1881 on his way to discovering rogers Pass and allowing the CPR to finish the trans-Canadian railway. Ten bucks says he swam at least once. 

Johnston Canyon, Banff National Park AB

This limestone Banff classic is best in June, when the river, and the paved catwalks full of shutter-snapping tourists are full. How do you say “cheese” in Mandarine? Twenty five kilometres northwest of Banff on the Bow Valley Parkway.

Kipawa River, Laniel QC

Sixteen kilometres of river Hydro-Québec would like to get its hands on. Sixteen named rapids that you should be most pissed off to lose. Put in at Laniel and take out at Lake Temiskaming. 

Lundbreck Falls, Pincher Creek AB

“I’ve heard there are boulders in the landing zone, but you’re fine if you just boof the hell out of it.” So says Canmore’s Logan Grayling of the roadside attraction at the eastern end of the crowsnest Pass. Successive runs are made easy by stairs intended for the tourists attracted by the sign on the highway. The 12-metre falls only offers a soft landing in high water years, but it may be the most fun you can have at a road-side rest stop. 

Molly’s Nipple, Slave River NWT

At 16 hours north of Edmonton, the Slave River is a bit of a side trip, but the rewards are proportional. Imagine: 3,500 cms passing through a 60-square-kilometre labyrinth of islands under 24-hour sunshine. Four main sets—Cassette, Pelican, Mountain and Rapids of the Drowned— are each a separate day trip and are accessible on the only road from Fort Smith to abandoned Fort Fitzgerald. Molly’s Nipple is a titillating, smooth hump dropping into a horseshoe recirculation. 

New River Dries, Fayetteville WV

The Dries takes its name from the fact that an upstream diversion pipe leaves the riverbed dry anytime the flow is below 283 cms (10,000 cfs). But whenever the pipe reaches capacity, the Dries gets wet in a hurry. “These are big-water rapids, like the Ottawa at higher flows. It’s very continuous with huge waves and holes, and gnarly eddy fences,” says local and Wave Sport paddler Jimmy Blakeney who won the 2002 IR Big Gun Show on the massive Put-In Waves created by a 2001 flood. Ten minutes outside Fayetteville on Route 16. 

Oxtongue River, Dwight ON

“Hog’s trough and Elbow Falls are two of the finer rapids in Ontario. you could put them on the bottom Moose in New York and they’d fit right in,” boasts Thom Lambert, a guru of southern Ontario paddling. Levels around 15 cms make the Oxtongue the best place to run your first class IV and V. The rapids, with a long class III to IV section in between, are easy scouts, easy walks and easily accessed by Oxtongue Rapids Road, outside the west gate of Algonquin Provincial Park. 

Petawawa River, Petawawa ON

Day trip the section through town or park and play at the Catwalk and Golf Course play spots. Drive to the end of the road in Algonquin Provincial Park and hike up the rail grade for a creeky wilderness run upstream of Lake Travers. 

Queensborough, Ontario

Situated at the bottom of the Upper Black and the top of the Lower Black runs, the almost deserted hamlet of Queensborough enjoys a moment in the sun, sometimes rain, every spring as open boaters and kayakers come together from all over Southern Ontario for the Highway 7 creek runs on the Beaver, Black, Salmon and Skootamata. 

Rouge River, Calumet QC

Home of the Seven Sisters, “the best collection of class III to V drops in the lower Laurentians,” according to Mark Scriver, former OC freestyle world champion and designer for Esquif. On Highway 148 east of Ottawa, the put-in is off Chemin de la Riviere Rouge. A good run for tandem open canoes in the summer at 50 cms, more consequential at 500 cms in the spring. Watch out for Elizabeth—she doesn’t flush. 

St. John, New Brunswick

Reversing Falls appears and disappears where the Saint John River collides with the immense tides of the Bay of Fundy. The one-kilometre run down the main channel builds from flatwater to class IV on both high and low tides every day from mid-May to October. The rapids disappear when the river and ocean tide are at the same level. The best wave at low tide is named Greasy Chicken, after someone barfed up the Colonel’s best while surfing it. Viagara is a good ride when the tide is rising. Harold Cox, the manager of Canada’s freestyle team, recommends you stay at the Hilton: “Put in with the high tide and paddle back at low tide, going downstream both ways.” 

Taureau River, Tewkesbery QC

While its reputation for being the hardest river in Quebec may be impossible to prove, the fact that this one-day run is so remote makes the taureau one of the most consequential. The 24-kilometre run has 20 constant kilometres of class IV to V drops, requiring an eight-kilometre overland hike if you get in over your head. 

Ucluelet, Vancouver Island BC

Local surf kayakers will tell you to go to Tofino if you want to surf off the outer coast of Vancouver Island. They’ll tell you to go to tofino so you don’t over-run Ucluelet, the town at the southern end of the same Ucluth Peninsula. Uke is more laid back—in true Vancouver Island style—than the camper-jammed streets of Tofino. 

V-Wave, Cheakamus River, Whistler BC

You’ll find the V-Wave about a kilometre downriver from the confluence of Callaghan Creek and the Cheakamus river on the three-kilometre class III Cal-Cheak, a run that holds water into the fall. Be sure to scout the take-out on river left below V-Wave and above the canyon. the canyon can be run at some levels, reports local paddler Braden Fandrich, and is a good place to collect boats that have been abandoned by swimmers who missed the take-out. Five minutes south of Whistler on Highway 99. 

Whitemud Falls, Winnipeg River, Pine Falls MB

Safe, clean, warm, fast and big-volume, Whitemud Falls has three main waves. The should-be-famous Scary Wave is the river-left side of a five-metre-high breaking wave spanning the river. Whitemud is 90 minutes northeast of Winnipeg on highways 317 and 11. 

River X

This is the one that you know about and we don’t. It’s the one that isn’t 1,700 kilometres away, the one you know the levels to because you and your protective friends have a hidden gauge. Our river X is the Madawaska River and the best play spot is… 

Youghiogheny River, Maryland

In the pre-plastic days, the Yough was considered one of the toughest rivers to paddle, not to mention pronounce. It’s still a classic run, with consistent class IV sets that punish floaters and reward technical boaters. Legend has it that Jeff Snyder used to stride the river (paddle it standing up) with his mother in the bow. 

Z-Turn Rapid, Lake Creek, Colorado

There’s a reason this set isn’t called S-Turn rapids like dozens of other sets you’ve no doubt paddled before arriving at Z (you were travelling in alphabetical order, weren’t you?). The current makes a severe left turn and slams directly into a severely undercut cliff. It’s one of the last surprises from a run that is three parts meandering class II, two parts continuous class IV and one part gruesome bedrock gorges. 

Screen_Shot_2016-01-13_at_12.32.57_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here

Driven: Across the Plains to a Distant Watering Hole

Photo: Ryan Creary
Driven: Across the Plains to a Distant Watering Hole

The endless Rocky Mountain winter was showing signs of retreat: tawny tufts of grass hugged a ground that reeked of thawing dog shit; puffs of thermals enshrined the nearby peaks the way a ballerina’s tutu protects her from indecency; chunks of discarded ice ground languorously downstream from the tug of gravity. Sean, Spencer and I had long been incubating spring paddling plans. But in Alberta, seasons loiter like eighth-graders at a 7-11. Spring and winter were still deadlocked in their annual tug-of-war and the life-giving melt was still months away. It was not the place for hydrophiles.

That’s where Jessica, the belle of 1981, rolled into the picture. At 25 years, she was showing signs of her age. A full 497,458 kilometres into her life, the maroon Volvo wagon favoured one side, limping to the left like she had a degenerative hip. Shards of brittle frame crumbled like lepers’ sores with each slam of her steel doors. And she had bad gas.

Philosophers and biologists don’t always see eye to eye, but they’ll generally agree that humans separate themselves from the rest of the animal kingdom by letting rational thought guide their behaviour. But as I slung my gear into Jessica while the rest of the West slept, I wondered if the paddling sub-species might have more in common with some of our hydrophilic cousins in the animal kingdom than we do with Plato.

As the dry air ripped through my shaggy fleece, it was obvious that when it comes to paddling, measured judgment takes a back seat to the same compulsive forces that drive wildebeest on their annual 3,000-kilometre trek across the vast, arid Serengeti Plain. Unable to go more than a few days without fresh water, wildebeest are continually on the move, exposing themselves to constant attack from lions, cheetahs and packs of spotted hyenas. Sometimes it’s not even the predators that get them, but the rigours of al- ways needing to find a fresh wa- tering hole.

The hyenas were nipping at Jessica’s back bumper as she rumbled up to Sean’s place a bit late. Both Spencer and Sean were hunched over their gear bags, shivering beside the curb. We had three days, a ten-year-old’s weekly allowance between us, and our sights set on any old creek in B.C. that held enough water to float our boats.

The other cars that passed us on the road seemed so clean and business-oriented while Jessica chugged along like a circus rig moving to the next small town. As we roared over the Rockies, a late-winter emission from Sean’s poorly stored gear bag caught an airborne back-eddy and wafted forward. Spencer threatened to tie it to the roof, but the rack that held the boats was itself a dubious set-up. The 1981 factory rack was not designed for bulbous creek boats, and it didn’t help that the paint around one of the brackets was bulging with internal rust.

There was no music to drown out the sounds of the shifting boats on the three-legged rack, no backbeat for the distracting stench that was reminiscent of a Junior-A hockey team’s dressing room. Only the façade of my radio remained. It had crackled its last AM country radio station a year ago before sending itself out to pasture.

Three hours later, high from the booty hotbox, I down-shifted Jessica with savage satisfaction into B.C.’s Columbia Valley and stopped at a thin veneer of crystal-clear water rushing over a chaotic mangle of rocks in the bed of Toby Creek.

“This is ass low,” commented Sean tersely.

“I’ve paddled it with just a little more water than this,” Spencer countered, unstrapping the boats. Toby Creek’s classic Seven Canyons run wasn’t its char- acteristically explosive self today, but it fit one criteria – it had water. After the cold, early morning and the reeking ride, a few gulps of whitewater on Toby Creek would relieve some of our dehydration.

Like a heroin fix, Toby only evened us out. The next morning we wanted our high and the Bull River was our next chance at finding an intoxicating flow. But the Bull wasn’t in much of a bucking mood and it’s exclamation point ended up being not a class IV rapid but a desolate, frost-heaved logging road. With only one car we had to hoof it in tight booties for two hours to complete the shut- tle. Conversation gravitated toward paddling, but the sto- ries hid behind the veil of winter; memories were distant and hazy. Underneath it all lingered my thoughts of Jessica and the abusive terrain we pushed her over to get to another “too-damned-early” run.

The Bull left me tired, but not depleted like I am after full sphincter contractions on a wild piece of river. That drowsiness eluded us all as we camped for the second night without the benefit of a tent in the bramble bushes of a rest area. Our choice of bivouac suited our float through purga- tory. We were on the way to somewhere; we just weren’t there yet. I fell restlessly to sleep; vaguely aware that each time I shifted, a nearby thorn pulled a puff of feathers from my down bag and into the night. 

Drawn by water like a tree sinking its roots deep into the mois- ture of the earth, we woke unnaturally early and summoned ourselves to the curiously named Upper-Lower reach of the Elk. Hoping it would bring some satisfaction to our wanderings, Spencer and Sean jumped out of Jessica to check the flow. The deep-toned growl from below suggested a runnable reach. We could plainly see Leap of Faith, a robust 50-foot waterfall that tumbled off the lip like a pleated wedding dress. Early sea- son or not, Sean was an oak root boring through a lead pipe to get to water. He headed upstream to find a put-in above the falls. Spencer and I offered to run safety.

Avoiding Leap of Faith was a leap of faith in itself. The only other access into the gorge was a set of cart tracks used to lower workers to a small hydro plant. Most rail grades don’t exceed 2 per cent, pleasant for bicycling seniors. But even the gnarliest freeriders wouldn’t touch this grade; the tracks plunged to river’s edge at a 45-degree angle.

My foot slid around inside my half-dry booty as I kicked some of the loose rocks out of the way on the fourth creosote-oozing railway tie. My gut worried about Spencer behind me. A slip and he would turn into a helmeted bowling ball. My boat dug painfully into my shoulder nerves, my paddle hand tingled and my legs began to wobble. Even a fall near the bottom would have spelled disaster, but we just giggled. The trip—festering gear, greasy grub and camping an unknown distance from heaven or hell—had turned us into giddy fools. We wobbled unceremoniously to the edge. Sean made a much grander entrance than us, tossing himself over Leap of Faith and showing us his sea-legs were more stable than our land-legs.

My shaky thighs felt more comfortable jammed inside my mango boat as it carved into the current behind Spencer. I could feel the pull of the heavy water, it felt like a thick mid- summer glacial rapid on a hot day. The hours driving through an arid early spring in a boxy freight car didn’t seem so bad now. Our glass was filled to the brim and we were chugging it down.

Like most good drinks, it came in a short glass. After two kilometres we were done and had to climb out of the eroded masterpiece up a similarly steep incline, the climb made tough- er by the fact we were climbing away from water. It was like a wildebeest feeling the heat descending on another dry season after barely whetting its muzzle at the end of another Serengeti cycle. Like the wildebeests’, our journey was worth it, neces- sary. Without it, we risked withering away waiting for water to come to us.

From a distance, we could see that Jessica didn’t look as relieved as we felt. She was listing. That was normal; her shocks had absorbed their last bump long ago. But she was sagging more than that. She was flat on one side. Yesterday’s Bull must have done her harm.

“She’s got enough air to get us to Fernie,” declared Sean, a man with grease under his fingernails often enough you know you can trust him.

“You guys got five bucks?” Spencer asked as Jessica hobbled to a stop in front of Fernie’s 7-11. We pooled together some change and he came back in an instant with a bag of salt-and-vinegar chips and a can of Flat-Fix. We read the warning sign on the label, made sure we had the valve cap off, and unloaded the toxic gob into Jessica’s atrophied limb.

She drank it down like a can of Red Bull before the third period, and we slammed her heavy doors and sped away—as per the instructions—to make sure the foam spun evenly throughout the tire. The tire was now un-salvageable for the long term, but we would get home and complete the loop.

The icy air that had sent us away had lost some of its bite as we crossed back over the Rockies and into Alberta. Sean’s booties, the precarious rack and the mute radio were all a little less demoralizing. We had tasted water after the long winter’s drought. Jessica was another story. Her Flat-Fix high was wear- ing off and a faint squealing sound made me worry that one of her bearings was giving out. Either that or it was the yipping of an approaching hyena.

Raymond Schmidt wrote about re-discovering the Cascade River in the Summer, 2005, issue of Rapid. 

Screen_Shot_2016-01-13_at_12.32.57_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here

Anyone Who Wants to be a Open Boater…Raise Your Hand

Photo: Rick Matthews
Anyone Who Wants to be a Open Boater...Raise Your Hand

In his book Gestures, author Roger Axtell has catalogued body language from around the world. He found that similar gestures mean different things depend- ing on where you live. For example, raising your hand and extending your thumb and little finger is the sign for “cool” in hawaii, while in Mexico the same gesture will get you a drink, and in Japan it means the number six. Perhaps with increased globalization lifting your hand in this manner will get you six cold beers at bars around the world. In canoeing, the similar gesture of raising your grip hand shows that you respect the river enough to stay ready to react to anything it might throw at you.

When your grip hand is high, your paddle shaft will be vertical, next to the canoe and close to your knee—right where you want it to be.

Correction strokes are a short reach back to your hip and you need only slice the blade forward to the catch position for a power stroke. If you need a quick righting pry, no problem, your paddle is already at your side and ready for action. With your grip hand held high you can instantly twist your paddle shaft and use the blade as a bow rudder for shifts left and right.

Since most strokes originate with a vertical paddle shaft, there is rarely a reason to drop your grip hand to link different strokes. 

A high grip hand will also improve your posture and balance by keeping the paddle shaft and your arms close to your body. With your paddle next to the canoe, you are positioned to rotate at the waist to perform paddle strokes without reaching or leaning. Less leaning means fewer braces and more time for power and correction strokes.

The next time you are on the river, look around at other canoeists who are moving smoothly and appear to be paddling with little effort. You’ll probably see that their grip hand rarely drops down toward the gunwale. Paddlers that do drop their hand often appear to be bobbing their bodies while their boats twitch and lurch awkwardly from one eddy to another. Dropping your grip hand leads to poor paddling posture, a lack of stability and rushed strokes that are executed too late to be effective.

So raise your grip hand to the river. Among canoeists, this gesture will be recognized as the key to linking effective strokes, smooth paddling, great posture and, ultimately, a deep respect for the river.

Andrew Westwood is a regular contributor to Rapid. He’s an open canoe instructor at the Madawaska Kanu Centre and member of team Esquif. 

Screen_Shot_2016-01-13_at_12.32.57_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here

The Search Continues: the Theme in Wilderness Tripping Journals

Photo: Toni Harting
The Search Continues: the Theme in Wilderness Tripping Journals

There was a logbook, covered in dust with the spine worn bare, that for years greeted expedition canoeists when they reached Fort Albany. The register was an end-of-trip ritual for canoeists who had finally made it to James bay. Sign your name, enter the date, and add a comment or two. The entries ranged from expressions of gratitude for being finished, to remorse for a trip that had ended.

But it’s what’s not written down, the story that isn’t told, that speaks louder than the pencil scratch on the page.

Bruce Hodgins—author, historian, retired professor and, with a personal canoe resume that reaches back to the 1950s, one of the architects of Canada’s canoe culture—is a man who knows about what is and isn’t found in canoeing logbooks and trip journals. Hodgins teamed up with fellow historian Gwyneth Hoyle to research the recent history of canoe travel and put it in one place. The result is the remarkable Canoeing North into the Unknown, A Record of River Travel: 1874 to 1974 (Natural Heritage, 1994), a seminal collection of the who, what, when and where of canoe tripping history.

You would not sit down and read hodgins’ and hoyle’s book from cover to cover. It’s a resource, a list of dates and names, with minimal description or qualification. entries receive equal billing and range from the famous:

“1789 Alexander Mackenzie, on his fifth crossing of the Methye Portage, travelled north, all the way down the Mackenzie River to the Arctic ocean.”

To the mundane:
“1974 Camp kandalore: John Fallis and guy Delaire led a boys group down the Missininaibi River to Moose Factory.”

To the epic:
“1930 Eric Sevareid, 17, and Walter Port, 19, canoed from their home in Minneapolis to York Factory—a total of 2,250 miles.”

I spoke with hodgins this spring. He was preparing to run the Irondale River in Ontario’s Kawartha region, even though at 75 years of age and with heart problems, his doctor no longer allows him to portage his own canoe.

I wanted to ask him about something that was missing in Canoeing North into the Unknown. It’s the same thing missing from the Fort Albany register, and that was why. Why did all those people take to the north at a time when access was difficult, trips were expensive and canoeing for pleasure was considered foolhardy? The names and dates share little of what the trip was about; the motivation, the experience as it unfolded, the stories, and the memories. What was it these people were seeking?

As Hodgins points out, in the early days of recreational tripping, canoers didn’t know much about the rivers they were travelling until they got on them. They were heading somewhere, unsure of what they would find. Hodgins thinks this is at once the reason they didn’t explain their motives, and also their motivation for going.

I prompted him with a line from the introduction to his book: “For some, the long northern river voyage is part of a quest pattern, a challenge, an exploration…a journey into the unknown.”

“Absolutely,” said Hodgins. “There is an emotional element to tripping on rivers, a re-experiencing of wonder as you discover something that was un- known to you. gwyneth was right to put “unknown” in the title. It’s the seeking out of something unknown that engages the individual.”

Hodgins’ book is intriguing because in it you don’t actually read about the quest for the unknown, but you know it is there. You can feel it from the lack of information that describes the simple trip details. For each entry there is a profound story left untold.

While the early explorers were charting vast wilderness, today’s paddlers are on their own search for something unknown to them. Pouring over a map, watching the weather, and nervously anticipating what’s around the next bend is part of the discovery on a canoe expedition. It is a personal quest, that can be discerned in trip journals, but only if you know what to look for. A camp’s map coordinates could be meticulously logged, followed by a scrawled, “The most beautiful place on earth.” Notes on an unplanned portage are followed by, “The hardest day of my life.” while short on detail, these simple lines speak volumes about the writer’s motivation; the why. The desire to challenge oneself by confronting the unknown is ultimately personal, and can only be hinted at in a few short sentences in a dusty register.

I asked Hodgins if the theme of a quest to explore the unknown persisted intact over the course of the last century and a half of canoe travel.

“Ah, yes, I still believe that the quest for the unknown is an element of why people do it,” hodgins replied, as he buckled the strap on his canoe pack and placed it by the door. It would be ready for him to pick up in the morn- ing as he went out again to experience something, something he wasn’t quite sure of yet. Those who wrote journals in the past, or will keep one in the future, likely would not admit to this emotional quest—it certainly isn’t written down anywhere in the Fort Albany journal— but it is there, between every line.

Jeff Jackson is a professor of outdoor adventure at Algonquin College in Pembroke, Ontario.

Screen_Shot_2016-01-13_at_12.32.57_PM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2006 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here