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Kayak Dream Homes: Living with the Flow

Photo: April Link
Kayak Dream Homes: Living with the Flow

It’s been a long-term dream to raise a family on Maurelle Island since it was such a gift to grow up here. I wanted to raise my own son here. My aunt lived in this house when it was floating off of Read Island. I remember walking down through the woods to get to her cabin as a kid; it always had a fairytale quality.

The house, built by a French Canadian from bent saplings, was designed like a boat hull, but is built light, so when the wind blows, we feel it!

Our cove is really a one-of-a-kind location. Not often do all the qualities of southwest exposure, an excellent water source, shelter from wind and close proximity to Surge Narrows Marine Park all come together.

But the winters are long, we’re really dependent upon technology and it takes a lot of extra effort to be social when you live out here. It becomes a water world with the rain pounding the cedar shingles, the waterfall raging from the hillside and the high tide lapping against the pilings under our home.

We began the project with the plan for a home, but as kayakers, the potential for a base camp was obvious. We’ve both guided the west and east coasts of Vancouver Island plus Abel Tasman National Park in New Zealand. We wanted to remove what we don’t like about commercial sea kayaking and run a business our way. The kayaking business enables us to live in a remote place yet still support a family.

Go with the Flow Adventures has three guest cabins, a wood-fired hot tub, shower houses and a workshop with plans for a closed-in, octagonal living room based out of the gazebo frame (which was crushed by a tree one winter storm) and also an open communal space for yoga, tai chi and cedar weaving workshops in the off-season.

We have some of the most beautiful, protected paddling on the Inside Passage, so it became our vision to reconnect people with the natural world.

Brody Wilson and Cristina Fox own go With The Flow Adventures on Maurelle island, where Wilson grew up, in the Discovery islands near Campbell River, B.C. They inherited their house in 2000, floated it to their land and, two years and six figures’ worth of renovations later, were ready to move in. 

AKv10i1-DE_1.jpgThis article first appeared in the Spring 2010 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine as part of a feature on kayak dream homes. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Kayak Dream Homes: Voluntary Simplicity

Photo: Shawna Franklin
Kayak Dream Homes: Voluntary Simplicity

Most people don’t realize how noisy their refrigerator is. Or how much of their leisure time they spend on the Internet, watching the television, or on the phone.

When we get home we don’t have those distractions so we can relax and enjoy being in the house, listening to the birds sing and the trees blowing in the wind. For years, we lived in a 12- by 12-foot wooden cabin—144 square feet, which Leon says was his true dream house! So we don’t have much room for possessions. We only have what we need which means four plates, four bowls, four knives and so on.

We do have hundreds of books because we love to read. We’ll often spend two hours a day with a good book. We love sea kayak expedi- tions because of how close we feel to nature and the way we live is an extension of that lifestyle.

We run a kayaking store and school on Orcas Island, Washington, so in the office we have electricity, but at home, candles provide our light, a woodstove provides our warmth, we have a well for our water, and a composting toilet with a fantastic view of our pond and the forest.

Shawna is an artist so her linoleum block prints decorate the house and she’s made a beautiful glass tile mosaic around the woodstove.

We’ve built a new house so that Shawna’s 82-year-old mother and sister, who has Down Syndrome, could come live with us. We couldn’t expect them to live like we do so they have electricity in their portion of the house, called the “power pod,” while the shared portion of the house (kitchen, dining room, living room and our upstairs bedroom) is still off the grid and as simple as possible. While we built the house we lived in the upstairs of our barn where we store our kayaks. That was really cozy and also off the grid.

Through our past lives as biologists and our kayak expeditions we have come to appreciate how beautiful and fragile the planet and our lives are. It is because of this that we try to live a life that is rich in experiences, simple in what we need, and has as little impact as possible—so that we can continue to have opportunities spending time in a diverse, beautiful and untamed wilderness.

Leon Sommé and Shawna Franklin, BCU kayaking coaches and owners of Body Boat Blade international, have matched their home life to the simplicity of their paddling trips. Leon says that because of the crises that are facing our world today, like global warming, “voluntary simplicity isn’t voluntary anymore.” 

AKv10i1-DE_1.jpgThis article first appeared in the Spring 2010 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine as part of a feature on kayak dream homes. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Kayak Dream Homes: Pasture

Photo: John Dowd
Kayak Dream Homes: Pasture

Our group was camped on a remote surf beach exposed to the west coast swells off Clayoquot Sound in British Columbia, making a video on weather for sea kayakers. We had chosen that location because it offered an unobstructed, picturesque view of the weather systems as they moved in off the Pacific.

In the far corner of the beach a small gray cabin was tucked into old growth forest, high on a bank above a small boathouse. Salal crowded against the walls and untrampled grass grew up to the doorways. The house was built of driftwood posts and sun-bleached shakes split from huge cedars that lay piled along the hightide line. Its interior resembled the cabin of a wooden ship. Sixteen-foot-high windows faced south into what had once been a garden, now congested with alder and salal. To the north, panorama windows looked over the beach and the northern coastline dotted with tiny islands. Adjacent to the house was a large workshop in need of repair.

I took photographs then returned to my friends on the beach.

“Well, I’ve found my dream place,” I announced. On the water and off the grid.

Bea was remarkably sanguine about giving up her job and moving to the wilds when I showed her the pictures back in Vancouver. It was exactly what we had been looking for. We tracked down the owner (who loathed kayakers) and convinced him to rent to us.

We enjoyed the hard work that first year: clearing the vegetation around the house, bringing back the old gardens, rebuilding the workshop and then adding a guest cabin. Our first winter project after getting the place in order, and six chords of firewood drying in the wood- shed, was to build a small lapstrake sailboat from beach lumber. The next year we opted for rocking chairs! Now, five years in, we spend our time doing the sorts of things we have been putting off for years: writing and painting the stunning land- scapes we can see from our porch and looking after two dogs, two cats and three laying hens.

During the summer and fall we catch two or three coho or spring salmon each day by wading into the water and casting out a Buzz Bomb. Although our nearest neighbor is some four hours’ walk away, and the trip to town takes two hours by kayak, it is by no means a lonely spot. The beach is popular with kayakers which makes
for a lively summer social scene. From October through to April, however, there are no visitors besides family and a few hardy friends. Storms parade by and the nights are long. We love it.

Cell phone reception can be a problem (we have to walk a quarter mile) and we lost Internet access when Telus fiddled with the local trans- mission tower. For our weekly run to town we now use a rigid inflatable with a 30-horsepower engine, but breaking out through surf with an inflatable can be problematic, and when it is too big, kayaks are the only way to go. 

John Dowd is one of the founders of the sport of sea kayaking and wrote the classic guide Sea Kayaking: A Manual for Long-Distance Touring, now in its fifth edition. John and Bea Dowd paddled from Venezuela to Florida in 1977. 

AKv10i1-DE_1.jpgThis article first appeared in the Spring 2010 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine as part of a feature on kayak dream homes. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Why I Migrate: Reflections Of A Baja Kayak Guide

a yellow sea kayak sits on the sand under a tarp rigged for shade with the water and rocky hills of Baja Mexico behind it
For this kayak guide and business owner, Baja Mexico sings with a siren’s call. | Feature photo: Ginni Callahan

“We are the memory of the road we’re on.”

—Aaron English

October, 2009: Ol’ Blue, my trusty pickup truck, turns 200,000 miles on a California highway and breaks down at the oceanfront Aliso Creek rest area 45 miles north of San Diego. The unexpected stop is still a long way from my winter home base in Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico, but luckily not too far from a friendly kayak shop.

I spend a week sleeping on the floor at the kayak shop, Aqua Adventures, playing in the sea and importing kayaks to Mexico. Importing the kayaks takes longer than the truck takes to repair, so the truck doesn’t cost time, just $530. Some people pay a lot more than that for an adventure!

Reflections of a Baja Mexico kayak guide

A week later, with kayaks imported and Ol’ Blue back to life, I set off under a crescent moon and Venus in the dawning sky. I cross the border at Tecate preoccupied with worries—about the truck, my progress, my safety on the road—then stop to remind myself that worrying doesn’t help anything. Enjoy the ride. Take what comes. It will be okay.

So I do. I enjoy the music, the passing hills and weird familiar plants—cirio, agave, cholla, cardon cacti. I savor the delicious solitude of driving alone in my truck with thoughts, memories, feelings all my own.

The warm glow of evening paints itself on the curious boulders of the Cataviña landscape. The shadow of my truck with its kayak top hat and trailer passes through boulders and cacti like a ghost.

After paying the rancher at Rancho Santa Inez, I set out my sleeping bag under a spectacular ceiling of stars. Not just individual stars, but the swath of The Milky Way, clear as a trail in the wilderness. A trail with distinct puddles of galactic light to skip through.

I am sleeping between a trailer full of kayaks and a mesquite tree, to a chorus of crickets, the flatulence of distant truck brakes and the sound of some large ungulate chewing and digesting indiscreetly in the nearby shrubbery.

Lights come on in the house of the ranching family who runs the campground. It’s time to move again. I hold the naked morning to me for one last snuggle, then get up to pack my sleeping bag.

Life on the road to Baja

The landscape from San Ignacio down is incredibly green after the rains last month. I crest a rise in the road to catch a glimpse of a hand walking across the pavement. No, too hairy. A tarantula, silhouetted for a moment against the sky, legs outstretched in an inspired gallop. How did it just miss the 18-wheeler coming the other direction? I straddle it with my tires and send it a wish to miss the others behind me.

a yellow sea kayak sits on the sand under a tarp rigged for shade with the water and rocky hills of Baja Mexico behind it
For this kayak guide and business owner, Baja Mexico sings with a siren’s call. | Feature photo: Ginni Callahan

Tarantulas migrate. Follow some irrepressible calling to move in a direction despite perils. Do they ever weigh the relative merits of just staying home this year? Or is it no longer home if you belong in another place at that time? Does some inner voice just say Move, and it does? Can the chunky arachnid hear the soundtrack of freedom as it struts through an ever-changing landscape? Does its heart sing as it passes a familiar landmark? Should we consider it lucky, brave or ignorant as it sets out on its journey?

I confess that I’ve been unable to hold down an indoor job for an entire year ever in my life. Boiled down to basics, I breathe, I paddle, I go to Mexico. It started with an innocent little invitation: “Get a sea kayak, learn to paddle it, and drive me to Baja. Then you can tag along for a few trips.” I did this as an ignorant adventurer, as a guide and now as a business owner. It’s been 13 years and the rhythm has become my life.

What do we migrate for?

Birds wheel over the rocks and ocean at Cabo San Lucas in Baja Mexico at dusk
Seabirds wheel over the rocks and water at Cabo San Lucas. | Photo: Christopher Kuzman/Unsplash

I’ll speculate that part of the reason we “civilized” humans go into wilderness or the sea is to remind ourselves that we are not ultimately in control. Perspective. Humility. Some might call it adventure.

I migrate for work. I can make a better winter living as a guide/coach in Baja than I can in Washington. I migrate for sun. Solar heating. I migrate for Baja. Its landscape, starscape, seas; its people; the energy of the place. I migrate back north in the spring for trees, the garden, the community of farmers, paddlers and friends, and summer work. But do I follow a voice any different from that spider, or a gray whale, or an elegant tern?

Migration. That pull to move some place different, yet familiar. To leave security for a time and accept the vulnerability of travel.

Migration unleashes my mind and heart from the daily duties of running a kayak company, a farm and a symposium. Those are creative, too, but in a more structured way. My only mandate now is to go south. Be open to the journey. Open the senses. Open the heart. Breathe.

Some people take vacations. I migrate.

Ginni Callahan is a sea kayak guide on the Sea of Cortez, Mexico, in winter and on the Columbia river and Oregon coast in the summer. She owns Columbia River Kayaking and Sea Kayak Baja Mexico.

AKv10i1-DE_1.jpgThis article originally appeared in the Spring 2010 issue of Adventure Kayak. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine and get 25 years of digital magazine archives including our legacy titles: Rapid, Adventure Kayak and Canoeroots.


For this kayak guide and business owner, Baja Mexico sings with a siren’s call. | Feature photo: Ginni Callahan

 

Rock the Boat: Signs Your Guide Has Gone Off the Deep End

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Rock the Boat: Signs Your Guide Has Gone Off the Deep End

Lapses in judgement. We all have them. Even guides.

Most of us have encountered the arrogant guide. Barking orders, muttering insults under his breath and strutting around like a marionette pulled by a manic puppeteer.

With clipped words and patronizing voice he badgers the clients, “This is how we do it. Not like that, like this. Look at mine—right… yours—wrong.” This to a gaggle of surgeons and military personnel, as if holding a paddle correctly is the most life and death challenge they will ever face. As if this morning kayak trip is a grave endeavour on par with perform- ing triple bypass surgery or launching a clandestine raid into enemy territory.

Instead of a relaxing holiday from their over-worked, over-stressed lives the dumbstruck clients are treated to a militaristic drill of every minutia involved in the great pursuit of sea kayaking. The tour is nearly over by the time the group dips their first paddle strokes into the placid waters.

But can you blame us guides? We have some of the coolest, most envied jobs on the planet. It’s no surprise that our heads may swell just a little atop our block-letter-printed “GUIDE” spraydecks. Our judgement about who the clients are, why they’re here and what they want may be off ever so slightly.

Certainly we’ve all witnessed the reckless guide—even the most levelheaded of us may have been one on occasion. Throwing gainers off waterfalls five days into a 14-day wilderness trip. Stepping on the gas pedal in a rapidly ending passing lane while towing a trailer full of boats on the shuttle home. Showing off our très cool to a group of middle-aged clients as if mistaking them for a pack of our Jackass-watching, lewd joke-cracking friends. 

Temptation. That’s what does guides in. The temptation of being adventure-seeking individuals plying our livelihoods in a massive natural playground. The temptation of being able to gratify ourselves whenever we please.

Every day we drink from a potent elixir of wil- derness and passion. It’s hard not to have a few too many now and then.

When too many temptations conspire against us, we may become the worst of all offenders—the oblivious guide. Staying out in the waves well past the white-knuckle comfort zone of our clients, waiting for that one last surf. Meeting up with a few other guides on a remote beach and hanging out until 2 a.m. making blue angels around a blazing campfire while our paying customers lie awake (think- ing what, I wonder?) in their nearby tents. Trying to get up the sprayskirt of the cute assistant guide as the group waits, cold and hungry, for their promised afternoon tea.

At its best, guiding is like being in a state of constant arousal but never letting yourself go all the way. Next time I’m out watching a fellow guide succumb to temptation and a lapse of judgement, I’ll do the considerate and understanding thing. I’ll go over and tell him (or her) to zip up. 

Virginia Marshall has worked as a sea kayaking guide in Canada and new Zealand. She has never made blue angels on trip. 

AKv10i1-DE_1.jpgThis article first appeared in the Spring 2010 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Want Fries With That?

Photo: Dave Quinn
Want Fries With That?

As last summer’s eco-tour bookings declined alongside the economic slowdown, paddling guides across the country traded in their paddles, pancake flippers and natural history guidebooks for hammers, chainsaws and computers in an effort to put food on the table.

Although day tours did not decline appreciably, big-ticket, multi-day expedition bookings were down significantly across the board, with some large companies’ bookings down as much as 50 per cent from recent years.

This decline left many guides out of work and has forced them to take extreme measures: many of them had to find real jobs. This hardship had a significant impact on the lifestyles of these notoriously peripatetic individuals.

“I have been working for BC Ferries and for the Coast Guard,” said one displaced sea kayak guide.

“This keeps me on the water at least. But I miss the spontaneity and wilderness aspects of sea kayak guiding. On the other hand, I actually sleep in my own bed, see my family on a regular basis and have some money in the bank now.”

Other guides found themselves work in the construction trade, while some turned to other outside work as educators or forestry workers—but even those industries felt the pressure of the so-called recession.

Some guides, temporarily forced from the last wild reaches of the coastal world, resorted to the depths of homebound depravity, taking up computer-based work such as, well, writing. 

 

Patches of Heaven on Homewaters

Photo: flickr.com/image-catalog
Patches of Heaven on Homewaters

The old barnstorming pilots of the 1920s called it “the patch.” Cruising sailors call it their home waters. We kayakers have patches too. Often it’s an overlooked section of water, a creek, river, lake or bay that is only a short drive away and provides an opportunity for the little-recognized joy of the impulse paddle.

The pages of glossy travel magazines, heavy with all-inclusive resort advertising, lure and distract us with stories of far off lands and challenging paddling. Yet for most of us there is an adventure just around the corner.

I am one of the lucky ones. My waters are across the street. A tough couple days at work or too much time spent working on the joys of home ownership and I can have a hull in the water in 10 minutes. My impulse spot is our neighbourhood lake, 55 acres small.

In my ancient Aquaterra touring boat and my wife Charity’s pretty new Dagger, or our Old Town canoe with Iggy the adventure dog aboard, it takes us an hour to paddle and coast along the meandering shoreline.

Every time we slide a hull in the water we’re in for something different. We check on Carlos, the cormorant that winters on the lake and stands on the dam’s spillway ruffling his wings in the afternoon breeze. In the summer we count turtles and watch the little blue herons that sit on empty docks and scan the tannin- stained water for their dinner. Petite finches flit overhead, executing ragged aileron rolls and bouncing across the surface like skipping stones. There are neighborhood legends of ‘gators in the lake. Rumour has it they creep in from the Escambia River, but after three years we haven’t been lucky enough to see one, though I guess luck depends on your point of view.

Charles Mackay wrote in The Dionysia that “Water is the mother of the vine, The nurse and fountain of fecundity, The adorner and refresher of the world.” It doesn’t matter what your boat is—canoe, kayak or inflatable duckie—there is probably some water near you. Everyone, at one time or another, needs a little refreshing. And who doesn’t want more fecundity in their lives? I’m sure I need more of it.

Adventure doesn’t have to be big, and it doesn’t have to be distant. A true boater never forgets the patch, and the joy of the impulse paddle. When you get right down to it, Water Rat in The Wind in the Willows was right— there really isn’t anything “half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”

BJ Armstrong is a U.S. Navy Search and Rescue pilot, a long-time kayaker and sailor, and a novice fly-fisherman from Norfolk, Virginia. 

AKv10i1-DE_1.jpgThis article first appeared in the Spring 2010 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Editorial: 10 Years of Million-Dollar Views

Photo: John Dowd
Editorial: 10 Years of Million-Dollar Views

You never know where life’s going to lead you. If you’d asked me 10 years ago where I’d be living now, I’d have said in a mountain wilderness or on the water.

I grew up in the heart of Toronto, a three-minute walk from Canada’s busiest intersection, the Trans-Canada Highway and the longest street in the world. I spent my first 30 years trying to get away from the concrete. I never would have moved back to my hometown if it weren’t for the woman I love.

Now Tory and I own a house downtown with eight kayaks in the backyard, street parking, a hound dog and a nine-month-old baby girl. I bike to work at a loft office with an art gallery and a Starbucks next door.

For our article about kayakers’ waterfront dream homes, I couldn’t think of any place more inspiring than John and Bea Dowd’s on a remote beach in Clayoquot Sound. Two summers ago, when Tory was two months pregnant, I had the ill-fated idea that this would be a good time to introduce her to open-ocean kayaking. I found myself huddled on a windswept beach in a rainstorm with one wet and nauseous wife.

I’d known the Dowds were in Clayquot Sound somewhere and had a standing invitation from John to stop in, but when I’d called their cell phone from Tofino I got voicemail. So it was unlikely that of all the beaches, we would have found theirs. But we did. The energetic figure happening along with a fishing rod the very moment we landed was the Father of Sea kayaking himself, and very soon Tory was warming up with a cup of tea by the woodstove and I was moving our gear into the guest cabin just as the rain started coming down hard.

That was the end of our travels. We spent three days enjoying the Dowds’ hospitality, their rainforest produce and fresh-caught salmon, while each dawn and dusk I would borrow one of John’s fishing rods and wade with him into the surf to try and stock the larder. Thank you, John and Bea.

When I asked John to write us something for this article, I promised he didn’t have to divulge exactly where he lives and crossed my fingers that he’d say yes.“I’ll check with Bea,” replied John, and fortunately, she agreed to share the story of their little piece of heaven with the world, along with the eight other extraordinary people profiled in the article.

Too often consumer magazines flaunt the aspirational trappings of wealth and fame, like homes with million-dollar views or $300,000 Breguet Tourbillon watches. I don’t want to fall into that trap. This article shows that you can live the dream without a lot of money, because most of the people profiled have downsized or opted out in some way, sought locations or lifestyles off the trodden path. This is something I try to do even living in the city—like Colin Beavan in the book No Impact Man—turning down the thermostat and downsizing my life so I spend less time earning money and have more time for the truly finer things, like paddling.

This is our 10th anniversary issue and I’ve been at the editor’s desk for eight of those years. If there’s any theme that’s kept me inspired for all these years, it’s this dream of the kayak-inspired lifestyle.

You never know where life will lead you, but with a kayak you can always make your home on the water, with a tent in the hatch ready to pitch in the most beautiful places on earth.

Here’s to 10 years of kayak dreams and unlimited million-dollar views, and to all the people who have built a life around kayaking, wherever their homes may be.  

AKv10i1-DE_1.jpgThis article first appeared in the Spring 2010 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Touring Kayak Review: Necky Looksha Elite

Man paddling red sea kayak.
The Looksha Elite is ready to cruise. | Photo: Rochelle Relyea

For Necky, the new Looksha Elite represents a return to its roots. Not another British-style kayak or “poke around the bay” rec boat, this is a true North American–style touring kayak, complete with a rudder instead of a skeg.

The Elite has a distinct Swede form, meaning its widest point is aft of the seat. While this creates a lot of volume for storage, racing kayaks also favor the shape for a number of other reasons: better stability; longer, more slender hull entry for increased speed and efficiency; narrower foredeck for a closer, more vertical stroke; tighter turns because the greater curve to the stern lifts more of the stern keel free of the water when edging; and less tendency to “pound” when paddling into oncoming waves and chop due to the finer bow entry and stern-biased volume distribution.

Necky Looksha Elite Specs
Length: 17′ 6″
Width: 22″
Cockpit:2″ x 16″
Weight:7 lbs fiberglass; 49 lbs  carbon
MSRP: $2,999 USD fiberglass; $3,999 USD carbon

necky.com

The Elite is built in Thailand, and while not particularly light (ours was 57 pounds), the build quality is excellent. A honeycomb foam core is used for stiffness, and everything is very nicely put together, with no leaks, rough edges, or imperfections. Hatches remained bone-dry after extensive rough-water play and rolling.

The fit accommodates a wide range of sizes. There’s lots of foot and legroom, but smaller paddlers won’t feel dwarfed. Optimal paddler weight is about 170 to 220 pounds, but at 150 pounds I thoroughly enjoyed it.

The seat is comfy and the back-band adjusts easily to provide solid support. The thigh hooks and the underside of the deck create a nice knee pocket for a very positive grip with the legs.

Initial stability is very comfortable and there is a ton of secondary.

Because the rocker is very pronounced, the Elite has very light tracking and benefits from being paddled actively, or else paddled with the rudder, which uses a SmartTrack pedal system. The downside is that with the rudder up, the Elite has a definite tendency to wander and blow around. The upside is outrageous manoeuvrability! Edging away from a turn will have you immediately carving a hairpin.

It’s a hoot in rock gardens and tight channels, and due to its speed is very quick to accelerate onto waves and swell, while the pronounced rocker makes the boat a blast to carve around on a wave. The clipper bow does a great job of staying on the surface even on steep waves.

If you can’t imagine ever using a rudder, then this is not the boat for you. However, if you like efficient touring, carrying big loads, and accelerating down waves in a following sea along an open coast, then you will love the Elite.

Three photos of different parts of a red sea kayak
Photos: Alex Matthews

Cut it out! (top)

Cutaways in the front deck allow for a closer, more vertical paddle position for an efficient catch at the start of each stroke. Large oval hatches (rigid shells over neoprene gaskets) provide easy access to storage.

Sweet Swede form (middle)

The Swede-form shape and “humped” stern deck create awesome cargo capacity in excess of 200 liters.

Bow up (bottom)

The Elite has a clipper bow (more vertical rather than long and overhanging) which extends the waterline for increased efficiency and provides more volume for better rough-water performance.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak‘s Spring 2010 issue. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here, or browse the archives here.

Best Urban Whitewater

Photo: Malcolm Brett
Saint John paddling

In 1783, an industrious group of nearly 10,000 Loyalists fleeing the American Revolutionary War left New York and arrived at the mouth of the St. John River. In two short years, the hard-working Loyalists turned this simple British fort into Canada’s first incorporated city—Saint John. With its ice-free port and easy access to high quality lumber, Saint John quickly became one of Canada’s most important centers of industry. The Loyalists’ work ethic has prevailed for more than 200 years and today Saint John is the industrial engine of the Maritimes. Home to Canada’s largest oil refinery, two pulp and paper mills, a power plant, a natural gas terminal, a brewery and enough coffee shops to float an armada of kayaks, Saint John is an unabashedly blue collar town. But when the shift ends, working stiffs from every walk blow off steam at one of the country’s premier—and little known—urban park-and play-spots.

 

Whitewater Lowdown

Saint John owes its remarkable whitewater to the city site’s particularly unique geography. Just five minutes from downtown, the St. John—one of eastern Canada’s largest rivers—meets the world’s highest tides (up to 40 feet) at the Bay of Fundy. Kayakers at Reversing Falls—so named because, at high tide, the influx of seawater creates rapids that run upriver—are the beneficiaries of this volatile confluence. The rapids vary from class I at mid-tide (when the elevations of river and sea are the same) to class V at high and low tides (when the difference in elevation can top 14 feet). And with features constantly appearing, disappearing and moving around, the variety is a real treat. For challenging downriver paddling and a change of scenery, head east to the Broad and Forty-Five rivers in Fundy National Park (class IV–V, 2 hrs).

 

Cross-training

Sea Kayaking: Irving Nature Park, on the city’s west side, provides direct access to the
 Bay of Fundy. For a scenic, historic day trip, launch here and paddle four kilometres east to park-like Partridge Island, a former quarantine station and fort during both World Wars.

Mountain Biking: A five-minute drive from up- town, 890-hectare Rockwood Park is one of Canada’s largest urban parks. Twenty-seven kilometres of mapped trails and many more of signed singletrack cut by local mountain bikers keep riders, runners and hikers busy after work.

Skiing: In winter, the renowned Maritime storms dump an average of three metres of snow on the city and Rockwood Park can become a wonderland for cross-country skiers and snowshoers—until the next rains, anyway.

 

Grub, Pub and Hubbub

Stop for breakfast at Slocum and Ferris in
 the Saint John City Market, or grab a snack 
at Pete’s Frootique. Opened in 1876, the City Market is North America’s oldest and has long been the city’s social focal point. For evening entertainment, check out a show at the grand and historic imperial theatre, or listen to Saint John’s up and coming musicians at Lily’s Café in Rockwood Park. Summers in Saint John are also a great time to experience the East Coast music scene. In July, the Salty Jam Festival brings together all types of music from folk to reggae for three days on the waterfront.

 

Local Hero: Harry Cox

“You don’t stop kayaking when you get old;
 you get old when you stop kayaking.” This sentiment would sound trite coming from anybody but Harry Cox, the 60-year-old dean
 of New Brunswick kayaking. A retired chemical engineer, Cox isn’t content to spend his golden years lounging in a rocking chair. If he’s not putting the young punks to shame at Reversing Falls, he’s likely with the Canadian Freestyle Kayaking team (he’s the manager), at the pool teaching neophytes to roll, lecturing high school students about following their passions, or even driving an ambulance as a paramedic. One thing you won’t see Cox doing is sitting still. 

 

This article originally appeared in Rapid magazine, Spring 2010. Download our free iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch App or Android App or read it here.