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I Had Never Paddled A River For The Last Time Before

Glen Canyon Dam in Arizona
An artificial flood from Arizona’s Glen Canyon Dam led paddlers to comb through records from the past. | Feature photo: Vicente Villamón/Flickr

This July I made my usual stop at the Burger Bus, just south of Bancroft, Ontario, on the way to the Gull River Festival. The Bus is right beside Dimples Mini-Putt. It was hot and there was no one on the course, so while I waited for my dinner to fry I wandered over to see if the resident pro would let me have a crack at the fourth hole.

When Peter Karwacki and his family, also on their way to the Gull, rolled into the parking lot, I wasn’t hard to spot—skinny man bent over a child’s putter ricocheting balls off a spinning windmill in front of a truck stacked with boats.

I had seen Peter a week earlier at the 19th Kipawa River Rally. As I toyed with the putter, Peter told me he was pleased that 640 people had paddled the Kip during the rally, meaning Les Amis de la Rivière Kipawa had raised some money to continue their struggle. Despite their ongoing efforts, the Kipawa River will soon fall victim to the one-two combination punch of a nearby hydro project and dam reconstruction. The Kipawa River will never be the same river again.

“I had never paddled a river for the last time before.”

When I realized I’d never paddled a river for the last time before I started calling friends who I knew were on the Kipawa last weekend with a camera. The photos taken at this year’s Kipawa River Rally may be the last documentation of me on this classic run; more importantly, these will be the last photographs of the river as we know it.

The Glen Canyon Dam
An artificial flood from Arizona’s Glen Canyon Dam led paddlers to comb through records from the past. | Feature photo: Vicente Villamón/Flickr

As I was sorting through this year’s “Photo Annual” submissions I thought a lot about the Kipawa and began to think about each photograph as a historical record of a river—how each one looked at a moment in time, say at high water, or in drought, or before thousands of cubic yards of concrete were poured into it.

Almost 10 years ago the Colorado River ran at high water levels, levels no one had seen for 40 years, except in pictures. To help build beaches and habitat in the Grand Canyon, water managers released an artificial flood from the Glen Canyon Dam to mimic the high flows of historical spring runoffs. The last two generations of raft guides had no clue what to expect. Commercial rafting companies and private paddlers with permits scrambled through black and whites photo archives from the early 1960s in search of the old high water lines. I wonder if in 40 years, paddlers will be asking me for pictures of the Kipawa.

Friends in an unequal fight

Peter isn’t sure about what the next move of Les Amis will be. He sighed, thanked me for Rapid’s editorial coverage of the issue through the years, but admitted, “Quite frankly Scott, I’d rather have had the coverage in the Globe and Mail.”

I joked with him, suggesting that maybe Rapid should just buy the newspaper. He laughed, waved, and drove off to the river with his family.

A whitewater magazine buying a national daily newspaper is about as likely as a band of old-school river runners stopping a Hydro-Québec project or me getting a hole-in-one on Dimples’ windmill-choked fourth hole. But, I thought to myself teeing up another ball, it doesn’t mean we should stop trying.

Cover of the Fall 2005 issue of Rapid MagazineThis article was first published in the Fall 2005 issue of Rapid Magazine. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions, or browse the archives.


An artificial flood from Arizona’s Glen Canyon Dam led paddlers to comb through records from the past. | Feature photo: Vicente Villamón/Flickr

 

Arm’s Reach: Pack the Right Gear Near

Photo: Mike Tittel
Arm's Reach: Pack the Right Gear Near

While most of us agree that safety has more to do with judgment and skill than equipment, there may come a time when you will need to call on gear to get yourself out of a situation.

The coast guard requires all kayaks to have a minimum of safety gear including: a PFD, heaving line, bailer, whis- tle and flashlight (when paddling at night). Beyond this, the list of specialized and high-tech safety gear available to you grows every year.

Though the decision of where—on your body or boat— you carry any required or extra gear is not dictated by authorities, it’s a decision that can render the gear either useful or completely useless. A pump nestled in your back hatch won’t do you much good when your cockpit floods.

So, what extra safety gear should you carry and where is the best place to put it? Two leading kayakers share their thoughts. 

Leon Sommé

My waist tow belt has been more practical and useful than any other item. With it, I can quickly pull somebody out of a dangerous situation like a riptide or rocks. After that my list would include spare paddles, a knife, a VHF radio and emergency tape to patch holes in a boat or paddling jacket.

I try to keep as much as possible on my body, so I have large pockets on my PFD. Hatches can quickly become flooded if they are opened in raging seas.

Whatever doesn’t fit on my PFD still has to be within an arm’s reach or it is no good in an emergency, so I keep the next most important items in my day hatch. Items include: extra clothes, chemical hand warmers, a jack- knife, a VHF radio, a flare bag, water, and a repair kit.

On my boat, I keep the decks mostly clear. Items can get washed away very quickly so I only keep a spare paddle, tow line, deck-mounted compass and my nau- tical chart.

An excellent training activity was to sit in my loaded boat on the beach. I assessed my set-up by seeing how easily I could solve common scenarios such as dealing with blisters, towing, and fixing a damaged boat from my cockpit.

Doug Alderson

If safety gear is not an integral part of my attire or my kayak it will likely get left behind. And if rescue gear is not on me or within very close reach it’s likely it will be unavailable during a distress. I learned this from paddling in rough seas and wanting to contact members of the group during a serious rescue and realizing my radio was in a hatch. Another time I got very cold sup- porting a seasick paddler. I had no immersion clothing within reach and my hands became unusable for pad- dling.

Fortunately, my foot pump and compass are part of my kayak and not removable. Beyond that, the specific gear I pack, and where I pack it, changes depending on what type of paddling I am doing. If I am teaching, I keep my towlines ready. In open water courses, I have my VHF radio turned on in a PFD pocket. I also carry extra clothes, first aid, food and water.

When touring with experienced senior paddlers, I keep very little gear on deck. I keep copies of my float plans and log books in the boat. If I am just out for the day, most of my gear stays at home. But I do always carry a small first aid kit and a bag of bivouac supplies, just in case. 

Leon Sommé is a certified BCU 4 sea coach and ACA instructor. He has logged thousands of coastal kilometres on expeditions, including the successful 2003 circumnavigation of Iceland. 

Doug Alderson has been a contributing member of the Canadian Recreational Canoe Association since the inception of the national sea kayaking program and is a CRCA senior instructor trainer. 

akv5i4cover.jpgThis article first appeared in the Fall 2005 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Rock the Boat: Hug a Logger Today

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
Rock the Boat: Hug a Logger Today

Most kayakers who have done any amount of wilderness paddling are some shade of green. I refer not to seasickness, but to environmental outlook. These green hues range from feeling vague warm fuzzies toward all things natural to engaging in radical activism. Sadly, many greens, of all stripes, come to regard loggers as implacable enemies of the earth.

Your actual working logger is not usually the one making high-level decisions such as how much—if any—old-growth we should cut or how much timber companies should pay to log public lands. Indeed, when loggers lose their jobs, it’s often because of bad decisions other people have made which led to over-logging. Yet I’ve sat around some campfires and listened to righteous greens, heavily into their cups of herbal tea, dismiss loggers as Neanderthals whose axes happen to be steel rather than stone.

The truth is that some loggers I’ve met have a knowledge of forest life-cycles comparable to that of many ecologists, and superior to that of a lot of weekend eco-warriors. Once, I even encountered some loggers who were fellow kayakers…

I’d been camped for a couple of days on a beach in the lee of a small cape that juts out into the Pacific Ocean. It’s on a wild, lonely, and lovely part of the B.C. coast; the sort of place where full-grown trees are sculpted like bonsai by the winds sweeping in off the open ocean. It’s not the sort of place you see a lot of paddlers, so it was with interest that I noticed a pair of kayaks appear around the point, plugging steadily through some pretty lively seas. My interest increased as they got closer. The boats sat so deeply in the water they resembled those frogman-guided torpedoes used in the Second World War. But, as I would soon learn, these boats were not swamped; they were simply properly loaded for Paul Bunyan camping.

The pair waved cheerfully to me as they landed. Each slipped a folding wheelset on their boat. With such heavily-laden craft, the wheels promptly dug in like skids, ploughing furrows through the wet sand. But this did not deter the strapping lads, both of whom appeared quite capable of besting John Deere himself in a tug-of-war.

With the boats above the high-tide line, one of the pair casually pulled out a shotgun and wandered down the beach to see if any waterfowl were available for plucking. The other proceeded to make camp, or rather, establish a homestead. First, he set up a large dome tent. Next, he dug in four driftwood logs around it. He then enclosed the tent in a roofed box built from five enormous blue tarps. Now, one tarp over a tent to reduce condensa- tion is not an unusual sight on the rainy and cold outer coast. But I’d never seen the full plastic-bun- galow approach before (or since). It left me wondering why he bothered with the tent.

The mighty hunter returned. No duck or goose had accepted the invitation to dinner. No matter. They would eke out a meal from the 25-pound salmon they’d caught earlier.

To cook it, they built not so much a campfire as a Viking funeral pyre. As the fish baked on its plank, one of them produced a pil- low-sized bag of B.C.’s largest cash crop and proceeded to build a joint with dimensions that would have met NFL regulations for an official pigskin. They politely offered me a toke, but I had to decline. I suffer not so much from Reefer Madness as from Reefer Mellowness; the only time I’d accepted similar hospitality, my pad- dling mileage had been cut in half for two days afterward.

To accompany this appetizer, a 40-ouncer of whiskey appeared as an aperitif. This being more familiar territory for me, I gladly accepted a glass — and then another, and then another. At one point I expressed reservations about the inroads we were making into their liquor supply. Not to worry, one of my new friends assured me with a rib-rattling slap across the back; they had a full bottle for each day of their trip.

It had come out in conversation that Dwayne and Wayne were loggers. I managed to concentrate fiercely and refrain from singing Monty Python’s “The Lumberjack Song.” But I could not resist asking them about how they’d gotten into kayaking—I’d always stereotyped lumberjacks as more comfortable on ATVs or PWCs. It was pure impulse, as Dwayne explained. He thought those funny-looking tourists were having fun so one day, flush with a bonus cheque, he dropped into the local kayak store and bought a boat, persuading his friend Wayne to do likewise.

Naturally, it wouldn’t have done to set off on a wilderness kayak trip without some prop- er training. So they had taken themselves (and I do mean themselves—they had no instructor) to a local delta to practice rough-water paddling. I’ve seen the river mouth they referred to and as it runs into the sea it produces icy standing waves I would never brave.

These were clearly men cut from a different cloth. Speaking of cloth, none of these fancypants fleeces, neoprenes, or waterproof-breath- ables for Dwayne and Wayne. Their jeans, cotton T-shirts, and wool mackinaws were good enough for logging—and so they were good enough for any real man when paddling, rain or shine, including the wet exits they’d done in the river.

With many outer coast kayaking trips under my sprayskirt (a lot of them solo), I had imagined myself to be a relatively rugged outdoorsy type. But compared to these two burly sons of the sawdust, I was clearly nothing but a foppish, Gore-tex-girded dilettante. Still, they evidently didn’t hold that against me, so it was with many mutual expressions of goodwill that we staggered off to our respective tents in the wee hours of the morning.

I awoke to silence. While I had slept in late, like the decadent city-type I was, the two hewers of wood had folded their tent (and tarps) and stolen away. They were lumberjacks, and they were OK.

Though clearly not as tough as he once considered himself, Philip still enjoys solo kayaking odysseys. And he still wears Gore-tex. 

akv5i4cover.jpgThis article first appeared in the Fall 2005 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Editorial: Life at Eight Frames per Second

Photo: flickr.com/image-catalog
Editorial: Life at Eight Frames per Second

When I was flat broke and guiding for a living, I lay awake many nights dreaming of a Gore-tex dry suit and a pro SLR camera capable of shooting eight frames a second. One of my life’s great ironies is that now, seven years later, I have both, neither of which are doing me much good here in my office. Sorting through this year’s photo annual submissions I found myself dreaming of the days when I felt rain trickle down the back of my neck—the days before my dry suit and fancy camera. The photos in this issue are taken by people who are not living life at a pace of eight frames a second. I found myself dreaming of days of longer exposures.

When friends and family see the quiver of camera equipment I lug around with me they ask me what camera they should buy. But what they are really asking is, do I need to spend that much to take great photographs?

My camera bag weighs 20 pounds and fills the trunk of most European cars. I have the contents insured for more than $10,000. It’s a marvel of polished glass and Japanese microprocessors that’s about as easy to pack in a sea kayak as the Hubble telescope. They take one look at it and swear they’d never spend that much on camera equipment. Funny thing is, I tell them, they don’t have to. My best photos were taken on an old hand-me-down manual camera from the 1970s.

I tell them to begin their photographic adventures by looking for treasures in pawnshops. Seek out a 35mm body and three lenses: wide-angle, normal and telephoto. Then I tell them to buy a shopping bag full of slide film. With the remaining $9,500 (or whatever their budget allows), I tell them to buy an around-the-world plane ticket and a comfortable pair of sandals and to spend the rest on traveller’s cheques. Then, during every waking hour—no matter if they are on the water, at the beach or riding Mongolian public transit—they should compose, focus and press the shutter button.

Authors of photography books will tell you that any good photograph is just film exposed to the light for some fraction of a second. What they don’t tell you is that the best exposures aren’t measured TTL—through the lens— they’re measured by salty, chapped, sun-burnt lips and callused hands. Good kayaking photographs start with their exposure to the elements, to the waters of our world and to the people and coastlines that surround them. None of the breathtaking kayaking pictures in our annual photo essays could have been taken from a desk, no matter how expensive the camera.

akv5i4cover.jpgThis article first appeared in the Fall 2005 issue of Adventure Kayak Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Adventure Kayak’s print and digital editions here.

Boat Review: Bell Canoe Works’ Nexus

Photo: Rapid Staff
Boat Review: Bell Canoe Works' Nexus

We were just completing our registration forms for the 2005 North American Open Canoe Slalom Championships/U.S. Nationals when our Bell Canoe Works Nexus test boat arrived at the Rapid office. With a new Royalex tandem playboat on the roof racks, we checked one more box on the registration form, entering us in the OC2 REC class. The slalom course of Jonquière, Quebec, would be a perfect testing ground.

Nestled in Zimmerman, Minnesota, Bell Canoe Works has a long history of producing high-quality composite canoes. In 2002, legendary canoe instructor and designer Bob Foote teamed up with in-house Bell designer David Yost to launch their line of Royalex white- water canoes. They first created the shape of the Prodigy and Prodigy X solo boats that provided the basis for their tandem Nexus. Bell is also producing the Ocoee after buying the mould when Dagger bailed from the canoe market.

For the last decade the Dagger Caption has been the standard by which new tandem playboat designs are judged. The Nexus is four inches longer than the 14-foot Caption, has a rounded bottom, moderate rocker and low and balanced sheer. Put plainly, the Nexus wasn’t the boat everyone was dying to try.

However, all of these normal-looking, non-radical design elements come together to produce a non-radical and nice-feeling boat. After two days of training runs on the slalom course in both models, our teams decided to paddle the Nexus instead of the Caption on race day.

Everyone just felt at home in the Nexus. It’s smooth and doesn’t lurch or wobble. It tracked well and we were able to pivot quickly enough to make the most challenging moves on the course. Is it faster than the Caption? There weren’t noticeable time advantages in either boat. Is it wetter than the Caption? It looks like it might be, but on the class II/III course it was difficult to tell.

When the course was closed we snuck out to surf the waves between the gates. The Nexus was a blast to front surf. It had enough of an edge to carve shoulder to shoulder on the wave. We even dropped in for a couple of rompin’ side surfs. These ended with a swamped canoe of course, but one that was stable and fast enough to catch the eddy below for another go.

If we were to nitpick, as racers tend to do, here’s what we’d have our technicians scribble on the clipboards. The bow and stern webbing grab loops were not long enough to carry or effectively rescue the boat. In fact, the ACA boat tech, Bob Stecker, wouldn’t let it pass inspection without the addition of painters.

Bell offers an optional “Mike Yee inspired” factory outfitting package complete with foam pedestals with knee and thigh straps and air bags and cages. We’ll admit that the Bell system functions in the same way as the original Mike Yee Outfitting

brand, but the attention to detail just isn’t the same.

With the Dagger Caption as the standard, all new canoes are either faster or slower, wetter or drier, less or more stable, blah or blah, blah than the Caption. The most distinct advantage over the defunct Caption, the mould for which is locked away in a warehouse somewhere, is that Bell Canoe Works still builds canoes and you can actually buy yourself a shiny new Nexus.

Specs

HULL Royalex
LENGTH 14’4”
WIDTH 29.5”
DEPTH 15.5”
SHAPE asymmetrical
ROCKER bow 5.75”, stern 5”
GUNWALE vinyl or ash
COLOURS yellow, red
WEIGHT 50 lbs w/vinyl
PRICE $ 1550 Cdn, $1150 US, ash gunnels; $375 Cdn, $280 US
OPTIONS Mike Yee-inspired Bell factory outfitting

rapidv7i4cover.jpgThis article first appeared in the Fall 2005 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great boat reviews, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here.

Touring Kayak Review: Current Designs Stratus 18

Photo: Tim Shuff
Boat Review: The Stratus 18 by Current Designs

Say you put on your mad-kayak-designer’s wig and lab coat and head into your workshop with your hacksaw. Then you slice the hull off a flatwater racing kayak and glue it to the deck of an expedition touring boat, complete with rubber hatch covers, deck lines, bungees, rudder and grab handles.

When the glue fumes cleared you would have something like the new Current Designs Stratus 18. This slim speedster fits into a hybrid category of boats that designer Dave Kruger calls “light performance touring.” It’s a crossbred racehorse for the paddler whose main focus is speed—racing and training—but who also wants to be able to go on multi-day tours.

Every element of the Stratus’ design reveals some concession to speed. The hull looks like a large javelin sliced down the middle. It has the smooth rounded cross section of a racing kayak or rowing shell—no v-bottomed keel or chines which would only add surface area and drag. There is virtually no rocker and the waterline extends almost all the way to the nearly plumb bow. Kruger chose a Swede-form shape (widest part of the hull behind the midpoint) for maximum glide.

The dimensions of the Stratus meet most kayak racing specifications, so it will fit into the expedition kayak category at your local adventure race and be one of the fastest hulls in the field. On calm water we were able to sustain a top speed of seven knots.

The Stratus is ideally suited to calm waters. Current Designs calls it a “quietwater” hull design because it stands in stark contrast to seagoing kayaks that have buoyant, upswept bows to ride through waves and rockered and hard-chine hulls for easy turning.

Current Designs Stratus 18 Specs
Length: 18 ft
Width: 21.75 in
Depth: 11.25 in
Weight: 50 lb glass, 46 lb Kevlar
Cockpit: 33 x 17 in
MSRP: $2,699 USD glass, $3,099 USD Kevlar 

cdkayak.com

However, where flatwater racing and training kayaks typically have large, open cockpits and little or no dry storage, the Stratus is a fully decked kayak that can be paddled in rough conditions. Locked into the standard-sized touring cockpit with a sprayskirt on, we were able to easily scull, brace and roll.

The Stratus’ rounded hull cross-section results in a stability profile that is best suited for experienced paddlers. Secondary stability felt consistent and neutral through all degrees of lean; there was no obvious point where the hull resisted efforts to roll it on edge, a feature that can equal good performance in rough seas. The Stratus tracks straight due to its long waterline and minimal rocker, so the rudder comes in handy for turning and also helps prevent weathercocking in cross and quartering winds.

The Stratus 18 comes in two sizes: a standard version that would fit medium to large paddlers well, and a high-volume version suitable for extra-large paddlers or those seeking maximum capacity for long trips.

Rubber’s not just for Brits

The bow hatch is sealed by a 9.5-inch round Kajaksport rubber cover as well as a hard plastic outer cover that straps flush to the deck. The second cover also protects the rubber hatch from UV rays and spray and keeps the Stratus’ racy lines tidy. Front and rear grab handles are kept from flopping by bungees attached to the reflective decklines. Current Designs also includes a painter line for tethering this racehorse.

Sumptuous saddle

Top-quality cockpit features round out the package. A long seat base provides exceptional leg support. The Current Designs rubber-padded backband encourages an aggressive paddling stance. Aluminum foot pegs control the rudder. Instead of thigh supports extending into the cockpit opening there is thigh padding under the coaming. This cockpit design favours spaciousness and ease of entry and exit rather than a tight, controlled fit.

Introducing the superhatch

In a Swede-form hull, the widest part of the boat is behind the paddler, adding extra capacity to the stern hatch. The Stratus has an enormous 21-inch-long hatch cover to match—the largest rubber cover we’ve ever seen. We were able to drop a big duffel bag straight through the opening, and were impressed when it stayed powder dry.

This article originally appeared in Adventure Kayak‘s Fall 2005 issue. Subscribe to Paddling Magazine’s print and digital editions here, or browse the archives here.

Cascade River, Class: Unknown

Photo: Ryan Creary
Cascade River, Class: Unknown

My Canadian Rockies Whitewater guidebooks are in rough shape. The covers are delaminating, the corners are abused, a mildewed crust of dried salad dressing stains one of the spines and the desiccated corpses of mosquitoes litter the pages describing good spring runs.

Any paddler who lives along the peaks separating Alberta from British Columbia knows about these books. They are river-running bibles. Split into two volumes covering 250 river runs, the obsessively detailed descriptions have eliminated any need for local river exploration. Helpful as the books may be, they have taken the adventure of paddling new rivers and run it through a printing press 5,000 times.

“Adventure,” writes Rockies guidebook author Stuart Smith “is a quality inherent to the process [of discovery], one that loses much of its appeal when someone else tells you how to do it or ad nauseam describes how it was done before.”

Easy for him to say after detailing every riffle in every rapid in the Rockies. “To be honest,” he claims, “I dislike guidebooks!” Those 650 pages must have been painful.

Paddling around Banff usually means choosing between a handful of standard runs like the Kicking Horse, Pipestone, Upper Bow and Kananaskis. Exploration is not really a part of the paddling ethic here anymore. Few people even bother looking for new runs since the guidebooks were released in the mid-1990s. Want to try a different river? Go to the library and look one up.

Now the frontier of exploration lies on the West Coast. With so much water and so many logging roads being hacked out of the bush, new runs are routinely opened. Guess where Smith lives now?

Today’s paddlers are moved by written words on a page, and end up doing only what has already been done. But it’s hard to blame paddlers for being followers when it seems our predecessors have been everywhere. The put-ins and take-outs may change from time to time, certain features might become more popular and there may be some new wood that finds its way into a local favourite, but there’s nothing really new out there.

Or is there?

“Ray, there’s nothing new around here. At least nothing that’s not full of wood—and I don’t do wood,” said Bruce, my devil-on-the shoulder friend after I told him that I may have found a nearby river not in a guidebook. Bruce, the wry skeptic, didn’t believe there could be anything worthwhile that had escaped attention.

It looked possible from studying the map. I had scoured the local topo maps and hit upon the Cascade River. I counted its contour lines, did some rough calculations and even dug up a flow history. It looked good. And it was only 15 minutes away from my house! But I second guessed myself too. It was just too close to town to have slipped under the radar. Back to the maps to see where I might have gone wrong (I did, after all, fail grade 11 math).

Again, it looked like the lengthy Cascade, which begins deep in the Banff wilderness, drops at a respectable gradient when squished tightly between two mountains for its final six kilometres. 

My veins were coursing in anticipation of verifying this in three dimensions.

On my next day off, I hopped on my mountain bike and rode a popular stretch of singletrack, a few minutes east of Banff’s townsite. It darts and dives over roots and rocks along the shore of the dammed Lake Minnewanka. After following a side track from the mouth of the river I caught a disappointing glimpse of a flooded canyon and retreated back to the trail. Further on the sound of falling water drew me back through the trees to the river. Scrambling along the angled limestone slabs I stumbled across five good drops one on top of the other.

The power of the river pulled me upstream. Around every bend I found another good chunk of whitewater. These sets weren’t just the makings of a legitimate river run, but a great one.

Since it was August, river levels were too low and wouldn’t come up until next spring. So I had to sit impatiently on this new run all winter. I prayed for enough snow in the upper reaches of the Cascade to supply good flow.

I told no one.

When winter finally released its full nelson hold on the Rockies, it was time to convince a crew to haul their plastic five and a half kilometres to the put-in at the Cascade River Bridge. From my map work, I knew it was a pretty easy walk up an old overgrown fire road. But it was still a trek shouldering a boat and gear, something few 21st century paddlers seem comfortable with.

I called Chris and gave him the sell: “Never paddled it, don’t know what the water levels are, don’t know if it will be a good run, but how about hauling your creeker five klicks up a trail with me?” Chris didn’t seem to care about the hike, or about anything really, except paddling. He was in.

“There’s nothing new around here that’s not full of wood. And I don’t do wood.” Bruce’s words echoed in my head. I called him up anyway. “Sure,” came his surprising reply. Though he was not generally a gambling man, Bruce was still keen on arcane river adventures.

“Besides, I want to lose 30 pounds this summer,” he said. 

That evening Bruce and I stayed up late to fashion crude kayak-carrying devices out of old backpacks and cam straps. Chris sat at home drinking beer. He would drag his boat.

At the trailhead, Chris waited while Bruce and I continued to fiddle with our backpack rigs. When we reached the Cascade Bridge two hours later, all three of us were dragging our boats.

“This is the calm section,” I pleaded as they peered in silent dejection at a listless straightaway. We were exhausted and had been abused by thousands of insects along the way. I sensed my crew was on the verge of mutiny. “I swear it’s going to get wild soon,” I reassured them, based on what, I wasn’t sure. Bruce plunged his face into the invisibly clear water and drank like an elephant. 

The big melt hadn’t flooded the river yet, but—to my relief—the river began to wind itself up soon after we put in.

A bend in the river marked the first rapid, maybe a class III. We mashed through. The Cascade continued to pick up intensity, flowing from easy class II and III to more frequent and more challenging III’s, at least that’s what I guessed a guidebook would say.

After a couple of hours of scouting and running new set after new set, the river widened into a jumbled boulder garden before disappearing into a narrow slot around a blind corner. This was the entrance to the canyon and our first big test. Being in uncharted territory, our first task was to name the set. We called it the Hydrator, in honour of Bruce who was constantly pulling over to relieve himself.

It wasn’t overly treacherous compared to sets we had done on familiar runs, but with no Linus-blanket guidebook to clutch and a rain shower upping the forebodance factor, we were nervous about judging the grade for ourselves.

We deliberated, assessed the flow, judged consequences and picked a line. As the current drew me toward the horizon, I reassured myself that I was up to what waited below. Somewhere under my PFD I felt a tug-o-war between confidence and doubt. I closed my eyes and went for it. When I saw the light and pulled into the bottom eddy a buzz of self-reliance added to the usual rush of looking up at a completed run.

Evening was wrapping around us four superb drops later as we flushed under the Stewart Canyon Bridge and into Lake Minnewanka. The rains pulled back as the last light burned through the black clouds that straggled behind.

We had just paddled something that wasn’t in a guidebook. It had escaped the attention of even the local expe- dition paddlers that have scoured the earth for new runs. Much to Bruce’s surprise, there had been no wood.

In the following month of high water, local paddlers followed our steps up the fire road. The Cascade even dished out a bit of carnage, proving—in a harsh way—the run’s worth. A few nasty swims (this ain’t no pool drop affair) and a dangerous pin in the Hydrator (the crux, a class IV rapid, probably) have proved that the Cascade is no easy float through the mountains.

It’s no Tsang-Po either, but it’s still something that belongs in a guidebook. Eventually word came out that Stuart Smith had been there before us, but had left it out of his book due to space restrictions. I don’t know how or why it missed the cut but, looking back on my rediscovery, I’m glad it did.

My guidebook will continue to deteriorate from heavy use, but now every time I see the contoured lines of a topo map I wonder how many other rivers are out there flowing right under our noses, waiting to be explored if we’d just take those noses out of our guidebooks once in a while. 

Screen_Shot_2016-01-15_at_10.23.04_AM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2005 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here

Open Canoe Technique: Side Surfing

Photo: Rick Matthews
Open Canoe Technique: Side Surfing

Side surfing is to canoeing as bull riding is to rodeo. Both give you a wild ride provided you’re in a kicking hole on a lively bull.

Side surfing occurs (whether you want it to or not) when your canoe is cradled in the trough of a breaking wave or hydraulic. Riding a hole perpendicularly to the current ranges from a smooth see-sawing action to a rough arm-jerkin’ bull ride with lots of splash entering your canoe and the ever-present threat of the upstream edge catching and you being thrown from your boat.

You’re unlikely to begin your bull-riding career on Little Yellow Jacket, a three-time world champion. Similarly, if you are new to side surfing don’t choose a hole that is too threatening—find one that has a short foam pile on the downstream side and a current entering the hole that isn’t too fast. The foam pile should be wide enough to accommodate the entire length of your canoe, with enough water below so that you won’t hit your head when you get bucked off.

A bull ride lasts eight seconds. We may be lucky to have a ride this long while side surfing, but then again if we get thrown from our saddle it’s not likely to hurt as much. Just remember cowboy, keep you upper body quiet, your hips loose, and hang on. 

How to side surf:

  1. Side surfing works when your canoe rests in the seam between the water falling over a rock and the recirculating foam pile on the downstream side.

  2. Hold the canoe as flat as possible with only enough downstream tilt to keep the upstream edge from catching and flipping you.

  3. Let your legs move with the boat and use them to control the tilt. Hold your upper body still and centre your weight over the canoe.

  4. Place your paddle in the foam pile on your downstream side. Use forward and backward strokes for moving forward and back in the hole and braces if the surf gets too rough. 

Andrew Westwood is a frequent contributor to Rapid, an open canoe instructor at the Madawaska Kanu Centre and a member of Team Esquif.

Screen_Shot_2016-01-15_at_10.23.04_AM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2005 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here

I’m Not a Rower

Illustration: Lorenzo Del Bianco
I'm Not a Rower

They will ask, “Whatcha doing this weekend?”

You will answer, “Paddling.”

Inevitably, they will reply, “Oh, I’ve always wanted to go rafting.” It will pain you even though you knew it was coming, even though you’ve heard it a hundred times. There is no polite reply.

Our sport may be growing, but people—family and best friends included—still have no clue what we do. They can’t grasp the difference between a 20-foot blob of black rubber filled with pasty, poorly-dressed punters and a responsive piece of plastic paddled by a party of one. Rafting involves a paddle, a helmet and a lifejacket and is therefore whitewater in their eyes. They don’t see the cunning with which kayakers pick our way down the river. They can’t imagine the freedom of slicing through a roadless landscape or planing down the face of a glassy wave. They’ve never felt their gut lurch at the lip of a drop, the sensation of being airborne and the impact upon landing. They think rafting looks fun.

“I’ve always wanted to do kayaking, but I am so afraid of flipping over and being trapped under the water,” they will continue if you bother impressing upon them the subtle differences between the sports. (You don’t bother explaining that you don’t “do” kayaking.)

It’s hard to reply to people who say they are scared of being trapped underwater because, deep down, kayakers are afraid of being trapped underwater. So you respond, “Don’t worry, when you want to bail, you bail. It’s automatic.”

Then, just to confirm you might as well be talking to a stump, they will blather on about how they heard from a friend’s uncle’s cousin that his neighbour got trapped and almost drowned…but didn’t.

“I would be scared of dying by going over a big waterfall,” they point out.

Of course they’d be scared of dying this way. Most of us would be, but a little perspective please. 

Most of us would also be scared about skiing off huge cliffs we see in ski movies. So why isn’t there the same fear of skiing? Oh right, because you don’t hurtle off cliffs when you go skiing, you ski the blue runs.

The same complex understanding of kayaking is absent.

For some reason the innocent mob thinks if you’re in a kayak you’ve got to run Niagara Falls. I blame Tao Berman.

“Aren’t you scared of drowning?” they ask.

“Yes I am,” I reply. This stumps them and stalls the flow of stupid comments, but only for a moment.

“I went kayaking once out West. It was so amazing,” they gush. “We saw whales and starfish…”

“Whales don’t live in rivers,” I reply.

“What?”

“I paddle rivers. Whitewater rivers.”

“Oh…” Silence. 

Due to the accessibility of lazy-man canoes, sea kayaking has quickly dwarfed our much cooler, bolder sport. Lame sports like rafting and sea kayaking take the same tools we use but apply them to something altogether different. Sea kayaking is not a sport, it’s speed walking on water.

Will people ever understand what we do? Will they understand the passion of putting on frozen gear at 8 a.m. to go paddle recently thawed ice? Will they comprehend that being free is losing yourself on a river? That the river is an equalizer where people from all walks of life are connected by a shared love?

No. As usual the masses will draw conclusions without knowing the full story. They’ll make things up about what scares them and what they don’t understand. They’ll decide paddling whitewater is way too extreme and keep the sport at an arm’s length.

When you’re strapping your kayak to your racks and they say, “Have fun rowing!” just smile and be glad they don’t ask to come along. 

Ben Aylsworth considers himself an ambassador of the sport. 

Screen_Shot_2016-01-15_at_10.23.04_AM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2005 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here

Editorial: The Dam Dumbs

Photo: Trethewey F./Muskoka Falls/Muskoka R./Mediocre/NTS Map Sheet
Editorial: The Dam Dumbs

A friend of mine calls them “The dumbs”. These are the things you do, dumb things, that at the time seem reasonable but eventually go so wrong that you can’t believe you did them in the first place.

It’s a condition that has escaped serious medical research but is most commonly found in males aged 18–35. An example of the dumbs is driving a Hummer into a hood-deep wall of snow, spending two hours digging it out with an avalanche shovel, and then backing up to try it again, getting myself only six feet further and much more stuck.

Another example is reaching over my handlebars to pull leaves out of my front brakes while riding my mountain bike on a rough trail.

Sometimes you get lucky and escape the consequences of the dumbs. Other times the consequences are immediately obvious, like when I reached for that leaf and got my fingers caught in the spokes, stopping the wheels with my weight forward and sending me screaming over the handlebars. But the worst cases of the dumbs happen when you don’t even realize what you’ve done, until later.

When Linda Halliday called a few weeks ago she explained she was bewildered and very disappointed, but by the tone of her voice I could tell she was actually pissed off. She’d just picked up the early summer issue of Rapid [online V7 I2] which fell open to the feature story, “Code Name Rubber Chicken: A Calculated Assault on Cottage Country Creeks” in which there appeared a photo of a paddler running a hydro control gate at Trethewey Falls.

The photo was taken more than a year ago in perfect spring light just as the boat was dropping through the dam on the curtain of water. It was all framed by the red brick structure and “Extreme Danger” signs. Linda, however, doesn’t think it is such a great shot. She’s a public affairs officer for Ontario Power Generation (OPG), the company that owns the dam and posted the signs.

You need a few more background details here to grasp the depth of this case of the dumbs.

Linda had my phone number handy because that morning I’d emailed her a sponsorship proposal for Palmer Fest, a whitewater canoe and kayak festival I was organizing. I had asked OPG to sponsor the event specifying that their sponsorship money would be used to further their “Stay clear, stay safe” dam safety public education campaign. In fact, I was quite proud of this partnership. I believe it makes perfect sense to work co-operatively with the people who manage the flows of the rivers we paddle. Until Linda’s call, I hadn’t made the connection with the previous year’s photograph.

Being anywhere near (to say nothing of actually running) a dam is exactly what Linda’s dam education campaign is supposed to discourage. The longer Linda and I talked, the more I realized OPG’s commitment to dam safety and the more I realized we should not have printed the photo.

Rapid would never run a photo of a paddler in whitewater without a helmet, nor would we illustrate the combination of alcohol and boating in any way. For the same reasons a photo of a paddler dropping a dam should never have been printed in that article.

Our sport doesn’t have a written code of conduct when it comes to choosing lines or running rapids, however we do have a solid respect for river safety that we’ve built through experience that makes us responsible paddlers.

According to American Whitewater, 10 per cent of all whitewater deaths are a result of victims coming into contact with dams. In this issue we thought we should have a look at why these river “features” are so dangerous—the take-home message being that these obstructions, for the most part, are industrial facilities and not the whitewater playgrounds we are used to scouting.

I’ve learned over the years that the only way to take the edge off a case of the dumbs (besides rest, ice, compression and elevation) is to tell everyone about it. Partly because, like misery, the dumbs love company—it makes you feel better when your friends try to top it, “You think that’s dumb? Well I once…”

But I think we really share stories of the dumbs because doing so can be our own humble public education campaign to stop others from doing the same.

Screen_Shot_2016-01-15_at_10.23.04_AM.pngThis article first appeared in the Summer 2005 issue of Rapid Magazine. For more great content, subscribe to Rapid’s print and digital editions here